Class 
Book 



TRAVELLER 1 S GUIDE 
TEE RHINE 



By, > 

Aloys \Sohreiber 

A » 



1830 



v°< 



TO THE PUBLIC. 



The varied and romantic character of the 
scenery on the borders of the Rhine is so uni- 
versally acknowledged, that no observations are 
requisite to urge it upon the attention of tourists. 

| The number of visiters has been gradually in- 
creasing for several years, and the facilities af- 
forded by the establishment of steam-vessels 

! between London and Rotterdam, and between 
Rotterdam and Mayence, will probably lead to 
a still further augmentation. 

The work of M, Schreiber has been expressly 
written for the assistance of Travellers. The Au- 
thor has not only traversed the whole of the 
right and left banks, but has been favoured with 
the communications of persons resident in the 
most remarkable places in its vicinity, and has 
thus been enabled to enrich the work with in- 
formation of the most authentic and valuable 
description. 



IV 



TO THE PUBLIC. 



In the present Edition, the whole work has 
been remodelled and corrected to the present 
time. The Routes to and in the vicinity of the 
Rhine have been revised ; the description of the 
Money, Coins, &c. of each state has been en- 
larged ; and an account of the Steam-Boats 
has been introduced, together with additional 
information respecting the mode and expense of 
travelling. The Map also attached to the vo- 
lume has been carefully corrected. 

Amongst the Works which the traveller will 
find useful in his tour, the Editor begs to re- 
commend the following :— 

Delkeskamp's Panorama of the Rhine, 
between Cologne and Mayence. 

■ Panorama or the Maine, 

between Mayence and Frankfort. 

These two works are executed with such ac- 
curacy that the tourist will be able at once 
to recognise every object on each bank of the 
river. 

Boyce's Belgian ax d Dutch Traveller, 
containing an interesting and accurate descrip- 
tion of the United Netherlands. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 



Hints to Travellers . . . .1 

Steam Boats from England ... 3 

Steam Boats between Rotterdam and Cologne . 4 

Steam Boats between Cologne and Mayence . 5 

Coches d'Eau between Cologne and Mayence . 7 

Money, Coins, &c. . . . . . 8 

Table of the value of Francs and Centimes in Swiss, 

Dutch, Prussian, Saxon, and Imperial money . 12 
Table of the value of Prussian, Saxon, and Imperial 

money in Francs and Centimes . . .13 

Passports, Custom House duty, &c. . . 14 

Mode and Expense of Travelling . . .14 

Posting in France and Netherlands . . 14 

Rhenish Prussia . .15 

Frankfort on the Maine, Grand 

Duchy of Hesse, Hesse Homburg, and Nassau . 16 

■ Grand Duchy of Baden . 1 6 

Diligences . . . . .18 

ROUTES. 

1 Calais to Ostend . . . .19 

2 Ostend to Brussels . » . 19 

3 Calais to Brussels by Lille . . .20 

4 Brussels to Liege by Louvain . . 20 

5 Brussels to Liege by Namur and the Meuse . 20 

6 Liege to Cologne by Aix-la-Chapelle . . 21 

7 Liege to Cologne by Spa and Aix-la-Chapelle . 21 



vi 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

8 Brussels to Cologne by Maestricht and Aix-la- 

Chapelle . . . . .21 

9 Ostend to Antwerp and Rotterdam . . 22 

10 Rotterdam to Amsterdam . . .22 

1 1 Amsterdam to Cologne by Nimeguen . 22 

12 Rotterdam to Nimeguen . . .22 

13 Cologne to Dusseldorf . . . 23 j 

14 Cologne to Frankfort by Limburg . . 23 L 

15 Rotterdam to Mayence by water . . 23 

16 Cologne to Mayence by Coblentz and Bingen . 23 ji 

17 Coblentz to Treves . . . . 24 [ 

18 Coblentz to Frankfort by Nassau . 24 L 

19 Coblentz to Frankfort by the Bathing Places . 24 

20 Coblentz to Frankfort by some of the Bathing 

Places . . . .24 

21 Mayence to Frankfort . . . 25 

22 Frankfort to Heidelberg . . .25 

23 Mayence to Heidelberg through Mannheim 25 j 

24 Mayence to Strasburg by Landau . . 25 

25 Mannheim to Strasburg by the side of the Rhine 26 ' 

26 Mannheim to Carlsruhe . . 26 I 

27 Mannheim to Heidelberg by Schwetzingen . 26 

28 Strasburg to Bale by Neu Breisach . . 26 

29 Heidelberg to Strasburg . . . 27 I 

30 Rastadt to Bale by Friburg . . . 27 

31 Friburg to Schaf hausen . . . 27 i 

32 Heidelberg to Stuttgart by Bruchsal . . 27 

33 Heidelberg to Stuttgart by Heilbronn . 28 j 

34 Stuttgart to Schaf hausen - . 23 

35 Stuttgart to Constance . . . 28 ! 

36 Bale to Schaf hausen and Constance . 28 j, 

Distances of Places on the Rhine, following the tow- 
ing path of the River . . . 29 j; 

Breadth of the Rhine at the average height of the 

water , . . . 32 j) 

Depth of the Rhine, together with the number of 

Islands from Bale to Emmerich . 33 



Navigation of the Rhine 



CONTENTS. 



vii 



THE RHINE. 

Page 

I. From Schafhausen to Bale, Friburg, Strasburg, 
Schwetzingen, and Rastadt . . .35 

Excursion from Rastadt to Baden, the 

Murgthal, and the Black Forest . 72 
To Baden ...... 73 

To the Murgthal or Valley of the Murg . 85 

To the Black Forest . . . .94 

II. From Rastadt to Mannheim . . 101 

1 Carlsruhe to Heidelberg . . .104 

2 Carlsruhe to Mannheim . . . 106 

III. Western side of the Rhine, Rhenish Bavaria, 
Rhenish Hesse, and part of Rhenish Prussia 113 

1 Mannheim to Spire . . . .113 

2 Spire to Germersheim . . . 113 

3 Germersheim to Landau . . .113 
Excursion to Annweiler . . 115 

4 Landau to Neustadt on the Haardt . .115 

5 Neustadt to Durkheim . . . 117 
Excursion from Durkheim to Frankenstein 

and Ditemerstein . . .120 

6 Durkheim to Grunstadt . , . 121 

7 Grunstadt to Gcellheim . . .122 

8 Goellheim to Mont Tonnerre . . 123 

9 Winnweiler to Kaiserslautern , .125 
Excursion from Kaiserslautern to Landstuhl 126 

10 Landstuhl and return through Otterberg to 
Kaiserslautern . . . .126 

11 Kaiserslautern to Lautrec. . . 127 

12 Lautrec to Meissenheim . . .127 

13 Meissenheim to Kreuznach . . 128 

14 Kreuznach to Alzey . . . .128 
51 to Alzey Kircheim Bolanden . . 128 



vin 



CONTEXTS. 



Page 

IV. From Mannheim to Mayence . .129 
First Koute, through. Worms and Oppeiiheiin 129 
Second Route, through. Heidelberg, across the 

Bergstrasse, through Darmstadt, and Frankfort 

on the Maine . . . .146 

V. The Rheingau, or Valley of the Rhine, from 
Mayence to Bingen . . . 177 

Excursion from Bingen up the Valley of the 

Nah as far as Kreuznach . .192 

VI. From Bingen to Coblentz, by Bacharach, St. 
Goar, and Boppart . . . .198 

Excursion from Coblentz to the Baths of 

the Mountains of Taunus . .231 

Excursion from Coblentz to Treves . 273 

VII. From Coblentz to Bonn, by Neuwied, Ander- 
nach, and Remagen . . . 296 

Excursion from Bonn to Aix-la-Chapelle 

and to Spa . . . 345 

VIII. From Bonn to Cologne .... 376 

IX. From Cologne to Holland ... 407 



I 



THE 

TRAVELLER'S GUIDE 

TO 

THE RHINE. 



HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. STEAM BOATS. MONEY. PASSPORT, 

CUSTOM-HOUSE DUTY. MODE OF TRAVELLING, POSTING, 

DILIGENCES. ROUTES TO AND IN THE VICINITY OF THE 

RHINE. — DISTANCES OF PLACES ON THE RHINE. 

The most favourable seasons for viewing the scenery of 
the Rhine are spring and autumn ; but if the traveller also 
wishes to visit the bathing-places in the vicinity of this river, 
and to form an idea of the life led there, he should go in 
July or August. Frankfort Fair, which is an interesting 
object to a stranger, takes place about the beginning of 
September. 

Those who wish to enjoy all the beauties of the Rhine, 
cannot perform the whole journey either in a carriage, on 
horseback, or in a boat, but must vary the mode of travelling 
according to circumstances. The steam- boats, which have 
been established within a few years, afford an excellent 
means of taking a cursory view of the banks of the river, and 

B 



2 



HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. 



have almost superseded the use of other boats for the pur- 
poses of pleasure. An account of these will be found in the 
following pages. 

The traveller who wishes to take a minute survey of every 
object of interest, will find it advisable to determine on cer- 
tain places, such as Bonn, Coblentz, Bingen, Mayence, &c. 
as central points from which to make excursions. It will 
generally be necessary, in visiting the valleys, mountains, 
and iron-works, to have a guide, and the traveller will find it 
best to take one recommended by the innkeeper at whose 
house he is staying. 

The inns which enjoy the greatest reputation will usually 
be found the cheapest. The best have been pointed out in 
this work, but the traveller must recollect that they are con- 
stantly liable to change, and that the inn which is well- 
managed one year may not be so the next. Their character 
will be best obtained by consulting travellers w r ho have per- 
formed the journey, and whom the stranger will meet with at 
every step of his progress. 

The banks of the Rhine from Rotterdam to Cologne are 
extremely dreary and uninteresting. The portion which is 
visited for its beautiful scenery commences a little beyond 
Cologne, and extends, without interruption, as far as May- 
ence. "Whether seen from the road, which, in most places, 
runs along the edge of the river, or from the surface of the 
water, it presents an unrivalled succession of splendid views. 
At Mayence, most travellers leave the Rhine for the purpose 
of visiting Frankfort, from which they return to Mayence, or 
proceed through Darmstadt to Heidelberg or Mannheim. 



STEAM BOATS FROM ENGLAND. 



London to Ostend. — From April to November twice a 
week, performing the voyage in about sixteen hours. The 
following are the usual charges : — Cabin, 21. ; fore-cabin, 
1/. 10s. ; children, half-price; four-wheel carriage, 41. 4s.; 
two-wheel carriage, 21. 2s. ; horse, 4/. 4s. ; dog, 5s. 

Margate to Ostend. — The Post-Office steam-packets go 
every Wednesday and Saturday at nine o'clock in the morn- 
ing, and perform the voyage in about eight hours. Fare, 
1/. Is. 

London to Rotterda m. — From April to November, twice a 
week; performing the voyage in about twenty-six hours. 
The usual charges are : — Cabin, 4/. ; fore-cabin, 21. 15s. ; 
children, half-price ; coach,6Z. 6s. ; chariot, 51. 5s. ; gig, 3/. 3s. 
horse, 61. 6s.; dog, 10s. 

London to Antwerp and Cologne. — During the summer, 
once a week. 

London to Calais. — During the Summer, three or four 
times a week, performing the voyage in about twelve hours. 
The fares are: — Cabin, 11. 13s.; fore-cabin, 1/. 2s. 6d. ; 
children, half-price; four-wheel carriage, 41. 4s. ; two- 
wheel carriage, 21. 2s. ; horse, 31. 3s.; dog, 5s. 

Dover to Calais. — Every morning, about ten o'clock ; 
performing the voyage in about three hours. Fare, 10s. 6d ; 
four-wheel carriage, 3/. 3s. ; horse, 1/. Is. 



4 



STEAM- BOATS. 



Farther information respecting the Packets may be ob- 
tained b}' consulting the advertisements in the daily news- 
papers, or by application to th'. Packet Offices, near the 
Custom-House. 



STEAM-BOATS BETWEEN ROTTERDAM AND 
COLOGNE. 

During the Summer, steam-vessels perform the voyage 
between these places three or four times a week. Their 
days of starting are, however, so constantly changed, that 
no information can be depended on, except that obtained 
on the spot. Bills, stating the days and hours of starting, 
the places at which the vessels call, and the price of the 
fares, may be seen at all the principal hotels on the 
Rhine, as well as at the offices belonging to the Steam- 
Boat Companies at Rotterdam and Cologne. 

The vessels perform the voyage from Rotterdam to Co- 
logne in two or in three days, and return from Cologne to Rot- 
terdam in one or in two, according to the time at which they 
start. 

The price of a place in the great cabin, for the whole 
distance, is about 11. lis. 6d. In the private cabin, it would 
be about one-third more ; and in the small cabin, about one- 
third less. 

These steam-vessels are commodiously fitted up in the 
style of the Margate Packets, and refreshment of every kind 
may be obtained on board. 



STEAM-BOATS BETWEEN COLOGNE AND 
MAYENCE. 



During the Summer, steam-vessels run between these 
j places, performing the voyage from Cologne to Mayence in 
. two days, and from Mayence to Cologne in one day. The 
i same observation, however, which was made on the Rotter- 
| dam boats, applies to these. Their hours of starting and 
prices of fares have been several times changed ; and we 
1 must refer the traveller to the spot, in order to obtain correct 
information. The following table, which is a recent state- 
mentj will enable him to form a tolerable idea of the expense. 

The freight of 601b. baggage is included in the fare. 
Tor every pound more, the passengers pay from Cologne 
to Bonn, 1 pfenning ; to Coblentz, 4 pfennings ; to May- 
ence, 8 pfennings ; and the same will be charged down the 
river for the same distances. 

The pavilion, or after- cabin, is sometimes let to a pri- 
vate party. A company of five persons or under, for the 
exclusive use of the pavilion, must pay six pavilion fares ; 
for every person above five, a second cabin fare to be paid 
besides. At Cologne and Mayence only, the agents can 
positively let the whole pavilion ; at Coblentz and Bonn, it 
can only be let conditionally upon its not being previously 
engaged at the two other places. 

Children not above ten years pay half-price. 

Table d'hote and refreshments to be had on board the 
steam-boats, at a very moderate rate. 

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COCHES D'EAU. 



7 



Note. — A Prussian dollar or thaler is worth about 3s. Eng- 
lish, and contains 30 silver groschen. A silver groschen con- 
tains 12 pfennings, and is worth rather more than Id. English. 



COCHES D'EAU. 

There are also coches d'eau, or passage-boats, between 
Mayence and Cologne ; but since the establishment of the 
steam-boats, they have had very few passengers of the gen- 
teeler class. During summer, they go every day, and in 
winter three times a week. They are two days descending 
the river, and three days returning. 

The fare for the whole distance from Mayence to Cologne, 
or returning, is 5 florins 30 kreutzers, which is about 9s. 2d. 
English. 

The conveyance of a carriage in a boat following the 
coche d'eau, would cost, from Mayence to Coblentz, 27 J 
florins, which is about 21. 5s. lOd. English ; or from May- 
ence to Cologne, 44 florins, which is about 31, 13s. 4d. 
English. 



8 



MONEY, COINS, &c. 

It will not be advisable for the traveller to take with him 
more cash than will carry him to the Continent, or the first 
principal town that he means to visit ; but he should furnish 
himself with circular Exchange Notes, which may be ob- 
tained at Messrs. Herries and Co., St. James's Street ; 
Messrs. Morland, and Co., 56 Pali-Mall ; or Messrs. Ran- 
som's, and Co., Pall-Mali East. These are made out in 
even sums from twenty pounds and upwards, and are payable 
at Ostend, Rotterdam, Ghent, Brussels, Liege, Spa, Cologne, 
Coblentz, Mayence, Frankfort, or indeed at any of the prin- 
cipal places on the Continent 

These notes are drawn at seven days sight, but are always 
paid on presentation, unless there is ground for suspicion. 
Their value is reduced into foreign money, at the current 
usance course of exchange on London, at the time and place 
of payment ; subject to no deduction for commission, or any 
other charge whatever, unless the payment, be required in 
some particular coin which bears a premium. They are 
therefore superior to any other mode of conveying money ; but 
if the traveller prefer taking with him English Bank Notes 
or Sovereigns, he will find no difficulty in getting them ex- 
changed at every principal town in the Netherlands or on the 
Rhine. 

The Exchange of course fluctuates with the fluctuations of 
commerce ; but the usual value of the 12. sterling, in the Ne- 
therlands, is about 11 florins, 90 centimes ; and on the Rhine 
about 6 dollars, 20 groschen. Rather more money is given 
by the Changers for Bank Notes of large amount than of 
small, because the former are more useful for remittances. 



MONEY, COINS, &c. 



9 



Aix-la-Chapelle. 

The money is calculated here either in dollars, silver gros- 
chen and pfennings, or in francs and centimes. The princi- 
pal money is the mark, 6 of which make a florin, 9 a schelling, 
18 a franc, and 54 a dollar. 

There are coins of 1, 2, 3, 8, 16, and 32 marks. 

See Prussia. 

Baden and Frankfort. 

The calculations are made in florins and kreutzers. 60 
kreutzers make 1 florin, which is about Is. 9d. English. A 
florin is equal to 13 groschen, 4 pfennings, conventional 
money. 

The following are the principal coins current here : 





Fl. 


Kreut. 


New Gold Louis 


11 


8 


Gold Frederick . 


9 


45 


Gold Napoleon 


9 


20 


Ducat 


5 


30 


Crown 


2 


42 


Conventional Dollar 


2 


24 


Five Franc Pieces 


2 


20 



There are also pieces of 2 florins, 1 florin, and of 24, 12, 6, 
3 kreutzers, as well as 1 kreutzer, J kreutzer, \ kreutzer. 

Bale. 

The money is calculated in florins and batzen, or in Swiss 
francs and batzen. 

10 batzen make 1 Swiss franc, about Is. 3d. English. 
15 batzen make 1 florin, about Is. lOd. English. 



m 



MONEY, COINS, &c. 



A batz is equal to 4 kreutzers, 3 French sous, or l^d. Eng- 



lish. The principal coins current are, Florins. 
New Gold Louis of 16 Swiss francs . . 101 

Gold piece of 5 florins . . . 5 
Dollar of 30 batzen, or 120 kreutzers . 2 

Half-dollar, or florin of 60 kreutzers . 1 



There are also pieces of 10, 5, 3 batzen, 1 batz, J batz ; as 
well as pieces of 40, 20, 12, and 2 kreutzers, and smaller 
coins. 

100 dollars are equal to 118t dollars of Prussian currency. 
Coblentz, Cologne, and Dusseldorf. See Prussia. 
France. 

The money is calculated in francs and centimes, or francs 
and sous. 100 centimes, or 20 sous, make 1 franc, about lOd. 



English. 

The principal coins are, Francs. 

Gold Louis or Napoleon . . .20 

Gold Double Louis ... 40 

Silver Piece . . . . , 5 

Ditto , . . , . 3 

Ditto . . . . , 2 

Ditto ..... 1 



There are also half francs in silver, and several smaller 
coins. 

Frankfort. See Baden. 
Holland. 

The money is sometimes calculated in guilders, or florins 
and centimes, and sometimes in guilders, or florins and 
stivers. 



MONEY, COINS, &c. 



II 



100 centimes, or 20 stivers, make one florin or guilder, 
which is about Is. 9d. English. 

The principal coins are, Florins. 
Gold Piece . . ... 10 
Ditto ..... 5 

Silver Piece 3 

Ditto. 1 

There are also half florins, quarter florins, pieces of 10 and 
5 centimes, 1 cent, half cent. 

Mayevce. See Baden. 

Netherlands. 
At Ostend, Bruges, Ghent, Brussels, Antwerp, and 
other places in the southern part of the Netherlands, the 
calculations are usually made in francs and centimes. See 
France, 

Prussia. 

The accounts are here kept in thalers or dollars, silver 
groschen, and pfennings. 

360 pfennings, or 30 silver groschen, make one thaler, or 
dollar, which is about 3s. Id. English. 

The principal coins are, Dollars. 
Ducat ..... 2| 
Gold Frederick 5 

There are also pieces of one-half, a third, a fourth, a sixth, 
and a twelfth of a dollar ; and pieces of one, three, four, 
six pfennings. 

Schafhausen. See Bale. 

Treves. See Prussia. 

The following tables of the relative value of money in the 
different countries on the banks of the Rhine will be found 
useful. 



TABLE OF THE VALUE OF FRANCS AND CENTIMES, IN SWISS, 
DUTCH, PRUSSIAN, SAXON AND IMPERIAL MONEY AT 24 FLORINS. 

N. B. The figures after the commas denote tenths or decimal parts. 



France 
Francs 
containing 
100 cen 
times. 



Fr. I C. 

-40 

— 50 
-60 

— 70 
-80 

— 90 
1 

2- 
3- 
4 

5 
6 
7 
8 
9 
10 
20 
30 
40 
50 
60 
70 
80 
90 
100 
200 
300 
400 
500 
1000 



land. I Holland. 

~ Florins 

Fr ? n . cs containing 

batzen. 



Fr. 



Bat. 
-,5 

-,7j 

M 
2,- 
2/7 
3,4 

4,7 
5,4 
6,1 



1 3,5 
-,3 

2 7 

3 3,8 
,5 

4 7,3 

5 4,- 
6 

6 7,5 
13 5, 
20 2,5 
27 

33 7,5 
40 5, 
47 2,5 
54 

60 7,5 
67 
135 
202 
270 
337 
675 



Prussia. [I Saxony 
Thalers JRix dollars 
containing ' containing 
30 silver | 24 gros- 
groschen. f chen. 



5,- 



■5,- 



Fd.j St. 

-r> 5 

— ; 2,8 

3,8 
4,7 
5,6 
6,6 
7,5 
8,4 
9,4 
— !l8,7 
1 8,1 
1 17,5 
2| 6,8 
2,16,2 

3 5,6 
314,9 

4 4,3 
413,7 



Thl. 



1814,6 
8,3 
1,9 



23 
28 
32 15,6 



140 
187 
234 
468 



7,3 
1, 



9,3 
2,9 



4616,6 
9313,1 



9,7 
6,2 
2,8 ! 
5,6 



Gr. 

— ,8 
1,6 

2,4 
3,3 
4,1 
4,9 
5 

6,5 
7,3 
8,1 
16,2 
24,4 
2,5 
10,6 
18,7 
126,8 



2 13,1 
221,2 
12,4 
3,6 
10 24,8 
1316,1 
7,3 



16 



27 
54 
81 
108 
135 



18 28,5 
21 19,7 
2410,9 
2,1 
4,2 
6,3' 
8,4 
10,5 



Rd. 



15 
18 
20 
23 
25 
51 
77 
103 
128 



270 21,-1257 



Gr. 
— ,3 
— ,6 
1,2 
1,9 
2,5 
3,1 
3,7 
4,3 
5 

5,6 

6,2 
12,4 
18,6 
— ,8 

9,9 
13,1 
19,3 

1>5 

7,7 
13,9 

3,8 
17,6 

7,5 



12 21,4 



11,3 
1,1 
15,- 
4,9 
18,8 
13,5 
8,3 
3,- 
21,3 
19,5 



Imperial. 
Fiorins 



13913,1 
185 37,5 
232 
464 



TABLE OF THE VALUE OF PRUSSIAN, SAXON, AND IMPE- 
RIAL MONEY AT 24 FLORINS, IN FRANCS AND CENTIMES. 



Prussia. 
Thalers 
containing 
30 silver 
groschen. 


France. 
Francs 
containing 
100 cen- 
times. 


Saxony. 

Rix dollars 
containing 
24 gros- 
chen. 


France. 
Francs 
containing 
1C0 cen- 
times. 


Imperial 

Florins 
containing 
60 kreut- 
zers. 


[ France. 

Francs 
containing 
100 cen- 
times. 


Thl. 


G. 


Fr. 


C. 


Rixd. 




rr. 


c. 


Flor 


k. 


ri. 


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40 




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11 




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4 




40 




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14 









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40 




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oz 




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1 


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1 
1 


fi9 
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IU 




ftfi 
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on 
ZU 


9 
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AR 




90 
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q 


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zo 




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79 
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1 




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oy 


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1 


p 



9 
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'30 


9 
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7 


1 R 




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4U 


1 


44 
44 


q 




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1 1 


Q 

o 


q 




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1 1 


RA 
04 




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1 


PO 
oU 


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Hi 




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t / 


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ftC 
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ZZ 


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zy 


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77 


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04 


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77 


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y 




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91 
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71 


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268 


59 


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271 


52 


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86 


20 


80 




295 


53 


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310 


30 


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107 


74 


90 




332 


47 


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349 


9 


60 




129 


29 


100 




369 


41 


100 




387 


88 


70 




150 


84 


200 





738 


82 


200 




775 


76 


80 




172 


39 


300 


— 


1108 


23 


300 




1163 


64 


90 




193 


94 


40C 


— 


1477 


64 


400 




1551 


52 


100 




215 


49 


50C 


— 


1847 


6 


500 




1939 


39 


200 




430 


98 


100C 


— 


13694 


47 


1000 




3878 


79 











c 



14 



MODE AND EXPENSE 



PASSPORTS, CUSTOM-HOUSE, DUTY, &c. 

\ 

If the traveller propose landing at Ostend or Rotterdam, 
he must obtain a passport from the Dutch Ambassador. 
This may be procured by addressing a letter to his Excellency, 
at No. 1, Bryanston Square. The letter must be written by 
some respectable housekeeper to whom the traveller is known, 
and the day after it is sent, the passport will be granted free 
of expense. 

Should the traveller go by Calais, he must send his name 
and address to the office of the French Ambassador, No. 61, ; 
Charlotte Street, Portland Place. On the following or any 
day afterwards, he must apply personally between one and 
three, and the passport will be given him free of expense. 

Carriages and horses entering the Netherlands are subject 
to no duty ; but if the traveller with a carriage land at Calais, 
or at any other place in France, he will have to pay ten 
shillings duty in the 100/., besides being required to deposit 
one-third of whatever value he may put upon the carriage. 
About three-fourths of this sum will be returned to him if he 
leave France within two years ; but if not, the whole is forfeited- 

MODE AND EXPENSE OF TRAVELLING. 

The traveller may proceed from the coast towards the, 
Rhine, either by posting or diligence. The following ac-; : 
count cf the prices of posting will assist him in his progress. 

France and the Netherlands. 

The regular charge by authority is 1 fr. 50 centimes per, 
post for each horse, and 75 centimes to the postilion ; but it 
is usual to give him about double that sum. 



OF TRAVELLING, 



15 



The number of horses depends on the kind of carriage and 
number of persons. 

A cabriolet, or carriage with two wheels, carrying one 
passenger, must have 2 horses ; two passengers, 3 horses ; 
three, 4 horses ; four, 5 horses. 

A limoniere, or carriage with four wheels, carrying one or 
two persons, must have 3 horses ; three persons, 4 horses ; 
four, 5 horses ; five, 6 horses ; six, 7 horses. 

A berline, or coach, carrying one or two persons, must 
have 4 horses ; three persons, 5 horses ; four, 6 horses ; five 
7 horses ; six, 8 horses ; seven, 9 horses. 

The traveller must either have his own carriage, or hire one 
at the place where he lands. 

Rhenish Prussia.. 

The regular charge is 12 J silver groschen per German 
mile for each horse. 

The gratuity to the postilion, per mile, is five silver gros- 
chen, if you have two or three horses ; 7 J if you have four or 
five horses. If you have two postilions, the gratuity to each, 
with five horses or six horses, is 5 silver groschen ; with 
eight horses, 7J silver groschen. 

An estafette, or courier's horse, is charged 17J silver 
groschen per German mile ; the use of a covered carriage 
will be charged 7£ silver groschen ; and of an open carriage, 
5 silver groschen per German mile. 

The charge for greasing the carriage is 5 silver groschen. 
If the traveller has his own carriage and does not want it 
greased, he will be charged 2J silver groschen. These 
charges are doubled in large towns, such as Aix-la-Chapelle, 
Cleves, Cologne, Dusseldorf, &c. 



16 



MODE AND EXPENSE 



Frankfort-on-the-Maine, Grand Duchy or* Hesse, 
Hesse-Homburg, and Nassau. 

Each post-horse costs per stage, 1 fl. 15 kr., 1 fl. 30 kr., 
or 1 fl. 45 kr., according to the price of forage ; but a courier's 
horse costs 15 kr. additional per stage. 

The postmasters of Frankfort and Mayence are authorized 
to demand 15 kr. more than the above rates per horse for 
each stage 

The charge for a half-covered post-chaise is 40 kr., and 
1 fl. for a covered carriage holding four persons. 

In the Grand Duchy of Hesse, you pay 36 kr. per stage for 
an open vehicle ; 48 kr. for a half-covered calash or carriage ; 
and 1 fl. for a close carriage. The charge for greasing is 12 
kr. You pay the postilions per stage, as follows : 

For two horses, 40 kr. ; and in the Grand Duchy of 
Hesse, 45 kr. 

For three, horses, 50 kr. ; and in the Grand Duchy of 
Hesse, 55 kr. 

For four horses, 1 fl. ; and in the Grand Duchy of Hesse, 
1 fl. 5 kr. 

When you have six horses, you pay the postilion who 
drives, the charge for four horses, and the other one the 
charge for two. 

Grand Duchy of Baden. 

Each post-horse costs per stage, 1 fl. 15 kr., 1. 30 kr., 
according to the price of forage. The charge for the vehi- 
cles is as follows : — 

For an open calash. 
For £ or f of a post . . . 30 kr. 



OF TRAVELLING. 



17 



For one post . . . . .36 kr. 

For more than a post . . .42 kr. 

For a vehicle half or entirely covered. 

For ^ or f of a post . . 40 kr. 

For one post . . . 50 kr. 

For more than one post . . . l 'fl. 

A sledge furnished by the posthouse pays at the same rate 
as an open calash ; but the postmaster is at liberty to grant 
or refuse horses for a sledge. 

The greasing of carriages with good grease costs 20 kr.', 
and with ordinary grease 12 kr. ; if the traveller furnishes his 
own grease, he pays only 8 kr. ; if the postmaster supplies 
the carriage, the traveller pays nothing for greasing. You 
pay to the postilions : 

For two horses. 
For a post, 24 kr. ; for f post, 30 kr. ; for 1 po£t, 36 kr. ; 
or l\ post, 42 kr. ; for 1£ post, 48 kr. 

For three horses. 

For i post, 30 kr. ; for § post, 36 kr. ; for 1 post, 45 kr. ; 
for \\ post, 54 kr. ; for li post, 1 fl. 

For four horses. 

For i post, 48 kr. ; for f post, 1 fl. ; for 1 post, 1 fl. 12 
kr. ; for 1J post, 1 fl. 24 kr. ; for li post, 1 fl. 36 kr. 

For six horses. 
For h post, 1 fl.- 12 kr. ; for f post, 1 fl. 24 kr. ; for 1 post, 
1 fl. 36 kr. ; for H post, 1 fl. 48 kr. ; for H post, 2 fl. 
For a courier's horse you pay 10 kr. beyond the charge 
c 3 



18 



DILIGENCES. 



for a single stage ; and guides are paid as if they were 
postilions with two horses. 



The number of horses which the traveller employs in Ger- 
many does not depend entirely on himself, but is frequently 
increased by the postmasters, according to the number of 
persons travelling, and the weight of the luggage. 

The traveller who enters a German town with post horses, 
cannot leave it with other horses until a certain time has 
elapsed : in some, it is fixed at twenty-four hours ; in others, 
forty-eight hours, and even longer. 

It is usual to give the postilions more than the legal rates. 

DILIGENCES. 

Persons who wish to proceed from the coast to the Rhine 
by this mode of conveyance, will experience no difficulty, as 
there are diligences from Calais and Ostend to Brussels, and 
thence to Liege, Maestricht, Aix-la-Chapelle, and Cologne. I 

There are also diligences from one town to another on the , 
banks of the Rhine. Those in the Prussian territory are 
managed by the Government, and start from the Post Office. 
They are so regulated that the traveller need never be disap- 
pointed, as an hour's notice, previous to the time of setting 
out, is sufficient to ensure him a place. The places are 
numbered, and those who first pay for them have the first 
choice. The expense of travelling by the diligence is about 
one shilling per French post, or German mile, for each 
person. 



ROUTES 

TO AND IN THE VICINITY OF THE RHINE. 



* # * A French Post and a German Mile are nearly of the same 
length, or about 4| English Miles. A German Post consists of 
two German Miles. 

No. 1. From CALAIS to OSTEND. 

French Posts. French Posts. 

Gravelines i\ Ghistel '6\ 

Dunkirk 2^ Ostend 1 

Furnes 2| — 

m 

No. 2. From OSTEND to BRUSSELS. 

French Posts. French Posts. 

Bruges 2| Alost 3J 

Ecloo ....... 3 Assche 1| 

Ghent 1\ Brussels ....... \\ 

I4§ 

A coach leaves Ostend every morning, and arrives at Brus- 
sels in the evening. The fare is about 13s. 

A boat leaves Ostend every morning at five o'clock, and 
the traveller arrives at Bruges about half-past eight. The 



20 



ROUTES. 



fare is about one franc. Another boat leaves Ostend for 
Bruges in the afternoon ; but the hour of starting varies, 
according to the time of year, from two to five o'clock. 

From Bruges to Ghent there is a boat every day. It starts 
at nine o'clock in the morning, after the arrival of the Ostend 
boat, and reaches Ghent about four o'clock. The passage 
in the best cabin, including an excellent dinner, is five francs 
and a half, or without dinner, three francs and a half. 

No. 3. From CALAIS to BRUSSELS. By Lille. 





French Posts. 








Pont a Tressen 






Tomnay . . . 


St. Omer . 




Leuze . 




.... 2± 


Ath . . . . 




.... 2h 


Enohien . . . 


Armentieres 


.... 1£ 


Hal . . . * 






Brussels . . . 



French Posts. 

H 

if 

2 
1| 
*k 
If 
2 



■26} 



No. 4. From BRUSSELS to LIEGE. By Louvai> 



French Posts. 

Cortenberg If 

Louvain 1^ 

Tirlemont 1\ 



French Posts. 

St. Trond 2^ 

Orey 2^ 

Liege 2^ 



No. 5. From BRUSSELS to LIEGE. 
ByNamub and the ATeuse. 





French Posts. 




French Posts. 




H 












n 




2£ 




' ' ' "JH^H 




..... If 




16 



ROUTES. 



21 



From Namur to Liege the road runs by the side of the 
Meuse, both banks of which are very beautiful. 

A passage-boat leaves Namur early every morning, and 
arrives at Huy in about four or five hours. It is not of the 
most elegant description, but the traveller will be amply re- 
compensed for its inconveniences, by the beauty of the 
scenery. The fare is about H franc. 

Another passage-boat, with superior accommodation, goes 
the same day from Huy to Liege, in five or six hours. 

No. 6. From LIEGE to COLOGNE. 

By Aix-la-Chapelle. 

French Posts. French Posts. 

Herve 1\ Juliers 3 \ 

Battice \ Berchheim 2§ 

Henri Chapelle .... \ Cologne 3 

Aix-la-Chapelle .... 2 ■ 

No. 7. From LIEGE to COLOGNE. 



By Spa and Aix-la-Chapelle. 



French Posts. 




French Posts. 


Theux, by Chaufontaine . 4 


Henri Chapelle 


. . . . £ 




Aix-la-Chapelle 


. . . . 2 






. . . . H 






. . . . n 












20 



No. 8. From BRUSSELS to COLOGNE. 
By Maestricht and Aix-la-Chapelle. 





French Posts. 




French Posts. 




. . . . . If 




.... 2.i 




H 


Aix-la-Chapelle 


.... 4 




2* 




. . . . 3} 2 




n 




. . : . 2f 




, . . . . 2£ 












26 



22 



ROUTES. 



No. 9. From OSTEND to ANTWERP and 
ROTTERDAM. 



French Posts. 



Bruges 2§ 

Ecloo 3 

Ghent 1\ 

Lokerern -2^ 

St. Nicholas If 

Antwerp If 

Gooring ....... 1\ 



French Posts. 

Grotzundert If 

Breda 2 

Moerdyk 2| 

Embark for Willemsdors. 

Dordrecht 

Rotterdam 2g 

27 



No. 10. From ROTTERDAM to AMSTERDAM. 

French Posts. French Posts, 

The Hague 2j Haerlem 2 

Ley den 2 \ Amsterdam 2 



No. 11. From AMSTERDAM to COLOGNE. 

33y NlMEGUEX. 



French Posts. 

Naarden 2i 

Amersfoort 2j 

Lunteren 2^ 

Arnheim 2 J 

Nimeguen 1^ 

Cleves 3 



G elders 

Crevelt 

Neuss ..... 
Dormagen .... 
Cologne 2 

27i 



French Posts. 
. . . , 4 
. . . . 3 

..... . 2 

. . . . 2 



Neuss to Dusseldorf, li. 
No. 12. From ROTTERDAM to NIMEGUEN. 



French Posts. 

Dordrecht 2^ 

Gorcum 2\ 

Thuil 2£ 



French Posts. 

Thiel 2 

Nimeguen ...... 3^ 

12| 

Few persons however go by land from Rotterdam to Nime- 
guen, since the establishment of the steam-vessels. See page 4. 



ROUTES. 



23 



No. 13. From COLOGNE to DUS8ELDORF. 



Mublheini 
Langenfeld 



German Miles. 



Dusseidorf 



German Miles: 
.... 21 



No. 14. From COLOGNE to FRANKFORT. 

By LlMBURG. 



German Miles. 

Siegburg 3 

Uckerotli 2 

Weyerbusch 2^ 

Alteiikirchen 1 

Wableroth 

Freylingen 2 



German Miles. 

Walmeroth 2 

Limburg ...... 2 

Wurges 3 

Konigstein 3 

Frankfort 2§ 



24J 



No. 15. From ROTTERDAM to MAYENCE. 
By water. 



Leagues. 

Dordrecht ...... 6 

Gorcum 5% 

Rossum 9 

Nimeguen 9j 

Emmerich 7 

Wesel ....... 9| 

Ruhrort 7 

Dusseidorf 7^ 

Cologne 10j 

Bonn 6f 



Leagues. 



Linz . . . 
Andernach . . 

Cobientz 5^ 

Eoppart 4J 

St. Goar 3j 

Caub 1\ 

Baccharach a 

Bingen 3j 

Mayence 5| 



113± 



No. 16. From COLOGNE to MAYENCE. 

By COBLENTZ AND BlNGEN. 



German Miles. 
.... 3 



Bonn 

Remagen 2j 

Andernach 3 

Cobientz ....... 2 

Boppart 2£ 



German Miles. 

St. Goar if 

Baccharach ]§ 

Bingen 2 

Nieder-ingelheim ... \\ 
Mayence \\ 



21| 



24 



ROUTES. 



No. 17. From COBLENTZ to TREVES. 



Polch . . 

Kaysersech 
Lutzerath 



German Miles. 
.... 3 
.... 2 



German Miles. 
Wittlich ...... 

Hetzerath ...... 2 

Treves 2§ I 



15 



No. 18. From COBLENTZ to FRANKFORT. 

By Nassau. 



German Miles. 
Ems by Lahnstein ... 2 

Nassau 1 

Nastatten 2 

Schwalbach 2 



German Miles. 

Wiesbaden 2 

Hattersheiin 2£ 

Frankfort 2 



13£ 



No. 19. From COBLENTZ to FRANKFORT. 
By the Bathing Places. Another route. 



Ems by the hill * 
Arnsteiu 
Ceiluau 
Fachingen 
Dietz 
Limburg 
Selters . 
Schwalbach 
Sehlangenbad 
Wiesbaden 



German Miles. German Mile3. 

11 Eppstein 1£ 

1 Soden 1 

l£ Kronenburg ^ 

\ Homburg 1 

\ Friedberg \\ 

\ Schwalheim \ 

\ Gelnhausen \\ 

3 Hanau 3 

1 Frankfort 2 

n — - 



No. 20. From COBLENTZ to FRANKFORT 
and MAYENCE. By some of the Bathing Places. 



German Miles. 



Ems, by Labnstein 
Singhofen . . . 
Scbwalbach . . 
Wiesbaden . . 



Hattersheim ^ 
Hochst J 
Frankfort 



German Miles, 
. . . . 2£ 
.... 2 



Wiesbaden to Mayence, 1^ German mile. 



* By Lahnstein the distance is two German miles. 



ROUTES. 



25 



No. 21. From MAYENCE to FRANKFORT. 

German Miles. German Miles. 

Hattersheim > 2 i Frankfort 2 

Hochst i * * ' * , 

4} 

No. 22. From FRANKFORT to HEIDELBERG. 



Langen li 

Darmstadt lj 

Bickenbach 1| 

Auerbach 1| 



German Miles. 



Nierstein 2 

Oppenheiin \ 

Worms 2f 

Frankenthal 1 



German Miles. 
Oggersheim, as at No. 23 . 6£ 
Hochdorf ...... l£ 

Neustadt li 

Landau 2 

Barbelroth l£ 



German Miles. 



Bensheim J 

Heppenheim ^ 

Weinheim 1^ 

Heidelberg 2 

10a 

4 



German Miles. 

Oggersheim \ 

Mannheim \ 

Heidelberg ..... 2 

9 



German Miles. 
Wissemburg \\ 

Sulz If 

Haguenau 2 

Brumpt \\ 

Strasburg 2 



21 1 



No. 23. From MAYENCE to HEIDELBERG, 
through Mannheim. 



No. 24. From MAYENCE to STRASBURG. 
By Landau. 



26 



ROUTES. 



No. 25. From MANNHEIM to STRASBURG. 
By the side of the Rhine. 



Spire . . 
Germersheim 
Rheinzabern 
Lauterburg 



German Miles. 
.... 2 
.... 2 
. . . . 2 
.... 2 



German Miles. 

Beinheim 2 

Drusenheim 2 

Wanzenau 2 

Strasburg 1^ 



15| 



No. 26. From MANNHEIM to CARLSRUHE. 



German Miles. 

Schwetzingen 2 Carlsrube 

Wagbausel 2 



German Miles. 
.... 4 



No. 27. From MANNHEIM to HEIDELBERG. 
By Schwetzingen. 



German Miles. 
Schwetzingen 2 Heidelberg 



German Miles. 
. . . . If 



3 i! 



No. 28. From STRASBURG to BALE. 
By Neu Breisach. 



Krafift . . . 
Friesenheim 
Marckolsheim . 
Neu Breisach 
Fessenheim 



French Posts. 

2 

n 

2 
11 



French. Posts. ' 
Bautzenheim 1^ 



Gros-Kembs 
St. Louis 
Bale . . 



2 

i 



ROUTES. 



27 



No. 29. From HEIDELBERG to STRASBURG. 



German Miles. 

Wiesloch 2 

Bruchsal 3 

Carlsruhe 3 

Rastadt 3 



Rastadt to Baden. 



German Miles. 

Stollhofen 2 

Bischofsheim 2 

Kehl 2 

Strasburg 1 

18 

li German Mile. 



No. 30. From RASTADT to BALE. By Friburg. 



German Miles. 

Buhl 2 

Appenweyer 2j 

Offenburg ....... 1 

Friesenheim \\ 

Kenzingen 3 

Emmendingen .... lj 



German Miles. 

Friburg 2 

Krotzingen 1 

Muhlheim 2 

Kaltenherberg .... 2 
Bale 2i 



21 



Offenburg to Strasburg, 2£ German Miles. 
No. 31. From FRIBURG to SCHAFHAUSEN. 



German Miles. German Miles. 

Neustadt 2 Singen 2 

Unadingen 2 Schafhausen 2 

Haudingen 2 

10 

No. 32. From HEIDELBERG to STUTTGART. 

By Bruchsal. 

German Miles. German Miles. 

Wiesloch 2 Illingen or Knittlingen . 3 

Bruchsal ...... 3 Schweiberdingen ... 2 

Bretten 2 Stuttgart 2 



14 



28 



ROUTES. 



No. 33. From HEIDELBERG to STUTTGART. 

By Heilbron. 



Wiesenbach 
Sinzheim 
Furfeld . 
Heilbronn 



German Miles. 
. . . . 2 
. . . . 2 

. . . . 2 



Besigheim . 
Ludwigsburg 
Stuttgart 



I 

German Miles, i 



21 




No. 34. From STUTTGART to SCHAFHAUSEN. 



German Miles. 
Waldenbuch ..... 2 

Tubingen 2 

Kechingen » 2^ 

Bahlingen 

Aldingen 3 



German Miles. 
Tuttlingen ...... 2 

Engen 3 

Hilsingen 

Schafhausen 2 

19£ 



No. 35. From STUTTGART to CONSTANCE. 



German Miles. 

Waldenbuch 2 

Tubingen 2 

Hechingen . . «■ . . 2^ 
Ebingen 2^ 



German Miles. 

Moskirch 3^ 

Stockach 2^ 

Radolphzell 2 

Constance 2^ 

19| 



No. 36. From BALE to SCHAFHAUSEN and 
CONSTANCE. 



German Miles. 

Reinfelden 2 

Laufenburg 3 

Waldshut 2 

Lauchingen 1^ 



German Miles. 

Schafhausen 3.} 

Singen 2 

Radolphzell l£ 

Constance 2A 



18 



29 



DISTANCES OF PLACES ON THE RHINE, 
Following the Towing-path of the River. 



From 



Leagues. 
the source to Coire — 



Dissentis 
Iianz 

Reichenau 
Coire 



8 
6 

H 



From Coire to Constance — 
Mayenfeld . . 6 
Feldkirch . . 4 
Embs ... 8 
Rheineck . . 5 
Lake of Constance 1 
Constance . . 9 



From Constance to Bale- 
Stein ... 5 
Dysenhofen . 2 
Schafhausen . 2 
FallofLaufen . § 
Rheinau . . 2 
Eglisau . . . 4J 
Kaiserstuhl . 2 
Zurzach . . 3j 
Mouth of the Aar 5 
Waldshut . . 2 
Laufenburg . 3| 
Seckingen . . 2J 
Rheinfelden . 2§ 
Bale . , 



33 





jLeaguts. 


Bale to Strasburg 




Istein 


2 


Kembs ... 


1 


Bellingen . 


Ih 

*2 


Banzenheim 




Hartheim . 


4 


Breisach . . 




Burken . . 


n 


Sasbach . . 


2 


Weil . . . 


1 


Wiswil . . . 


1 


Cappel . . 


H 


Wittwyr . . 


l 


Ottenheim . . 


if 


Meisenheim 


a 


Altenheim . . 


it 


Plobsheim . . 


i 


Strasburg . . 


H 



32 

From Strasburg to the Mouth of 
the Lauter — 

Wansenau . . 2| 

Freistaet . . 

Hemlingen . . 1 

Grauelsbaum . § 

Greffern . . ^ 

Fort Louis . . If 

Hugelsheim . § 

Winter sdorf , J| 

Plittersdorf . . l\ 

Steinmauern . f 

Modern . . . | 

Neuburg . . 2| 



15 



D 3 



30 



DISTANCES OF PLACES 





Leagues. 




Leagues. 


From the mouth of the Lauter to 


From Caub to Coblentz 




Mannheim — 




Oberwesel . . 


1 


Dachslanden . 




St. Goar. . . 




Woerth . . . 


n 


Hirzenach . . 


U 


Schroeck 


3 


Salzich . . . 


i 


Linkenheim 


1 


Boppart . # . 


l 


Sondernheim 


2 


Oberspey . . 




Germersheim . 


1 


Niederspey . . 




Lingenfeld . 


2 


Rees .... 


i 


Philippsburg 




Capellen . . 


t 


Heiligenstein 


i 


Coblentz . . 


II 


Spire . . 


3 






Ketsch . . 


. 2 






Waldsee 


. 2 


From Coblentz to Andernach — 


Altripp . 


1 


Nauendorf . 


4 


Mannheim . 


. 2 


Kesselheim . 


1 






St. Eastian . . 






m 


Engers . . . 
Urmitz . 


1 
4 

h 



From Mannheim to Mayence — 
Frankenthal canal %\ 
Worms . . . 2f 
Rheinturkheim 1^ 
Hamm ... 1 
Gernsheim . . 1 
Stockstadt . . 1 
Swedes' Column § 
Oppenheim . 
Mayence . . 4 

151 



Weissenthurm 
Andernach . 



From Andernach to Linz— 
Formig . . . It 
Brohl ... § 
Breisich- . . | 
Kripp opposite 

Linz . . If 



From Linz to Cologne- 







Remagen . . 


3 
4 


From Mayence to Caub 




Oberwinter . . 


H 


Budenheim . . 


2 


Mehlen . . . 


n 


Weinheim . . 


2 


Plittersdorf 


1 


Gaulsheim . . 




Bonn . . . 


1* 


Kempten . . 




Rheindorf . . 


3 
4 


Bingen . 


i 


Herschel . . 


i 


Asmanshausen . 


1 


Widdig . . . 




Lorch 


H 


Wesseling . . 


1 


Bacharach . 


3 
4 


Weiss . . . 


1 2 


Caub . . . 




Rodenkiichen . 


1 






Cologne . . 


1 



91- 



ON THE RHINE. 31 

Leagues. Leagues. 
From Cologne to Dusseldorf— From Wesel to Emmerich— 

Muhlheim . . 1 Xanten ... 2^ 

Niel .... f Rees . . . 3f 

Casselberg . . 1^ Emmerich . . 3^ 

Hittorf ... 1 — 
Woerringen . . § g-* 
Zons .... 1^ 

Sturzelberg . .1 From Emmerich to the Sea — 

Uelsen orUdesheim | Millingen . . 3 J 

Grimlinghausen § Nimeguen . . 3^ 

Dusseldorf . . 1^ Rossum . . 9| 

— Gorcum . . 9 

10^ Dordrecht . . 5^ 

From Dusseldorf to Ruhrort Rotterdam . . 6 

Kaiserwerth . 2 The Sea . . 8 

Uerdingen . . 2 — 
Essenberg . . 3 45 

Homburg opposite 

Ruhrort , . ^ Total Length 303f 



7* 

From Ruhrort to Wesel— 
Orsoy ... 2 
Rheinberg . %\ 
Wesel . . . 2| 



7 



32 



BREADTH OF THE RHINE, 



AT THE AVERAGE HEIGHT OT THE WATER. 



Rhenish feet.* 



Upper 



230 

250 to 300 
340 



1000 to 



Near Reichenau, after the junction of the 

and Lower Rhine 
Behind Stein, on the Lake of Constance 
Near Schafhausen 
At the Fall near Laufren 
Near Rheinfelden 
Near Bale . 

Between Strasburg and Spire 
Near Mannheim 

Mayence . 

Biberich 

In the Rhingau near Eltvill 
Between Bingen and Coblentz 

- Coblentz and Neuwied 
Near Neuwied 

Bonn . 

Cologne 

Hittorf 

Zons . 

Grimlinghausen 

Hamm 

Dusseldorf 

Kaiserwerth 

Uerdingen 

Wesel 

Farther down 
Near Emmerich 

* A Hhenish foot is not quite a quarter of an inch longer than an 
English foot. 



33 



DEPTH OF THE RHINE, 

TOGETHER WITH THE NUMBER OF ISLANDS FROM BALE TO 
EMMERICH. 





Islands. 


Rhenish feet* 


From Bale to Breisach 


60 


From 3 to 


10 


Breisach to Strasburg 


80 


Si— 


12 


— Strasburg to Germersheim 


70 


5 — 


18 


— Germersheim to Mannheim 


18 




18 


Mannheim to Mayence . 


30 




24 


Mayence to Bingen 


18 




18 


Bingen to Caub 






20 


Caub to Bonn 






29 


As far as the mouth of the Aar 




■ 13 — 


19 


Between Linz and the Kripp . 




26 — 


29 


Near Unkel 




23 — 


24 


Near Bonn 




10 — 


11 


Between Cologne and Dusseldorf 






23 


As far as Dusseldorf . 




20 — 


51 


Kaiserworth 




11 — 


15 


Wesel 






14 


f Emmerich • 






15 



* See Note on the preceding page. 



34 



NAVIGATION OF THE RHINE. 



From the source as far as Reichenau the river is 

not navigable . . 
'From Reichenau to Coire, it is navigable for small 

rafts and boats . . . 

From Coire to Rheineck, for boats 
On the Lake of Constance, for large boats from 13 

to 17 tons . . ... 

Between Bale and Strasburg, for boats of 6 or 7 tons 
Between Strasburg and Mayence, for vessels from 

17 to 22 tons ..... 
Between Mayence and Cologne, for vessels from 

22 to 34 tons .... 
From Cologne to Holland, for vessels from 53 to 80 

tons .... . . 

On the Waal and the Leek to the sea, for vessels 

from 53 to 83 tons .... 



Leagues. « 

4 

lati 
*i) 

24 , 

J 

18 

32 

55 

fH'j 

If 

37f |] 
75 j 
303f 

r 

\> 

it 



35 



THE RHINE. 

I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN TO BALE, FRIBURG, 
STRASBURG, SCHWETZINGEN, AND RA- 
STADT. 

The Rhine takes its rise beyond Mount St. 
I Gothard, from three small springs, which come 
from three different mountains. It is soon in- 
creased by a multitude of torrents, and falls into 
the Lake of Constance, which it crosses with 
great impetuosity for the space of six leagues, 
when it leaves it between the villages of Stygen 
I and Eschenz, and retakes its former name. Be- 
! low ScharThausen, the navigation of the river is 
not very easy : there are, however, boats which 
will descend (not without danger) as far as the 
fall which it makes below this town. They are 
constructed with very light planks of fir, and are 
called, in the language of the country, Lauer 
Tamien : the bottom is quite flat, the sides quite 
straight, the prow and stern very low, and not 
terminated in a point. These vessels are gene- 
rally sold at tti3 places where they disembark 
their cargoes. 

SCHAFFHAUSEN 

Contains nearly 6000 inhabitants, most of 
whom are employed in manufacture or com- 
merce. It is the natal place of Jean de Muller, 



36 



I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN 



whose valuable library was bought by the coun- 
cil of the town of Trippel the sculptor. The 
most remarkable objects are, — 1. the Steel 
Foundry belonging to the house of Fischer. 
2. The Casino at the Faesenstab. 3. Dr. Am- 
mann's complete Collection of Shells. 4. The 
Collections of Pictures belonging to M. Keller, 
Dr. Ammann and M. Veith. 5. The Mineralo- 
gical Cabinet of Captain Stierlin. 6. The Cot- 
ton Factory. 7. The Fort of Munoth, situated - 
in the environs of the town, on the mountain of 
Emmersberg. The Schiessplatz, auf der Enge, 
and garden zum Faesenstab, where the members, 
of the Casino assemble, command fine prospects. 
The most' frequented promenades are to the 
Convent of Paradis, on this side of the Rhine ; 
to Hohenflue, to the Bohnnenberg, to the Valley 
of Mills, to Herblingen, to Lohi from which there 
is a fine view, as well as to the quarry, the 
Hohlenblavm, and the Rosiliberg, on the other 
side of the Rhine, the Grafenbriick, the Miihthal, 
the Klufs, Hertingen, and Lohn. The famous 
strong castle of Hohentwiel is situated four 
leagues from SchafFhausen. From the top offl 
this castle may be seen the whole of the chain of 
Alps from the Voralberg to the Jungfrau, as j 
well as the lake of Constance, and a great part, 
of Suabia, The beautiful bridge over the Rhine, 
which, for several years, formed the communica- 
tion between the town and market-town opposite, 
was burnt by Oudinot in the month of August, 
1799. It was a chef-d'oeuvre of its kind, and 



TO RASTADT. 



37 



had no other support, besides a single pile in 
the middle, than the two banks. It was 364 
English feet long. A model of it is still pre- 
served in the Town Library. Grubemaun was 
the name of the man who built the bridge. 

Inns. The Crown, the Ship, and the Sword 
(Schwerdt). 

A league below Schaffhausen is the famous 
fall of the Rhine, near two places called Laufen; 
one of which, consisting of a castle and a village, 
is situated on the Swiss bank ; and the other, an 
old decayed castle, on an island opposite the 
first. About five hundred paces above the fall, 
the river is intersected by enormous masses of 
rock, rising above the surface of the water. It 
begins to foam, and the slope becoming more 
and more steep, it falls from rock to rock, divid- 
ing into a number of small branches, till it 
reaches the edge of an enormous rock, over an 
abyss nearly eighty feet deep. In falling from 
this mass, it forms three different cascades: the 
most impetuous is that on the south side, which 
rushes across two rocks resembling two pillars. 
The noise made by this fall may be heard, in 
the night, at two leagues' distance. 

Laufen formerly belonged to an ancient family 
of that name, which has been long since extinct. 
In the village is a curious dark room, well wor- 
thy of attention. It was made by an artist of 
Schaffhausen. 

Two leagues below the fall of Schaffhausen, 
the Rhine winds in various directions, forming 



S3 



I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN 



two peninsulas; the first of which extends a| 
considerable distance into the Thurgau, and is j 
called Schwabens; on the second is the small r 
town of Rheinau. The river then turns towards | [ 
the east, and, after having continued some time t 
in that direction, runs towards the south ; and [ 
when it has passed several small places, reaches j 
the village of Egghof ; opposite which, the Thur I' 
falls into it. Thence it takes its course across 
a strait in the mountains near Eglisau, and, after - 
having washed the walls of the small town of f 
Kaiser stuhl, and those of Zurzach, famous for its 1 
fair, reaches the place where it forms the second p 
or middle fall. f 

This second fall is occasioned by a ridge com- 
posed of rocks that cross the river, in which there 
is an aperture that leaves a free passage for the 
water when low, and is large enough for two small ; 
boats, called Maydlinge, to pass abreast ; but ! ! 
when (as it often happens in summer) the Rhine 
rises a considerable height, and passes above the 
rocks on each side the opening, it causes such a F 
fall, as to render the navigation impossible. A 
short distance below this fall, the Wutach, the 
Steinach, and the Schwarzach, which come from 
the Black Forest, fall into the Rhine. Half a 
league farther is Cobltnce (Confluentia), so called 
by the Romans, from the union (a league above 
this place, in the canton of Aargau) of the Aar, 
the Limath, and the Reuss. Thence the river 
directs its course towards IValdshut, (five leagues 
from SchafThausen,) one of the four forest-towns 



TO RASTADT. 39 

where the Black Forest commences. A league 
and a half farther, the Rhine receives the Alb, 
which also rises in the Black Forest. At its 
mouth are the foundries of Albbrugg, which for- 
merly belonged to the Convent of Saint Blaise. 
I In the valley of the Alb, which abounds with 
| picturesque views, is the old abbey of Saint 
| Blaise. 

The Rhine then passes several villages, and 
reaches the small town of Hauenstein, two 
leagues from Waldshut. This small town is part 
of a lordship of the same name : its castle has 
been for a long time in ruins. The peasants of 
this district are remarkable for their manners 
and dress, and generally display much courage 
! and energy. A league from Hauenstein is Lau- 
fenburg, where the mountains of Jura, on enter- 
ing the river, divide into two parts, which are 
connected by a bridge. About three hundred 
and thirty paces above the bridge, the Rhine rolls 
over large masses of stone, and, as it approaches 
the bridge, becomes more and more intersected 
by the rocks on each side, between which it 
rushes with impetuous force, surmounting every 
obstacle. 

Three leagues lower than Laufenburg, is Seek- 
ingen, which is the third of the forest towns, and 
coutains about 1000 inhabitants. It is a classi- 
cal place in the history of the Upper Rhine. At 
the commencement of the sixth century, an 
Irishman of a noble family, whose name was 
Fridolin, came to the banks of the Rhine to 



40 



I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN 



preach Christianity, and was received into the 
house of a German family, who resided on an 
island in the environs. This island has lately 
borne the name of Seckingen. Fridolin (or 
Friedhold) founded the church of St. Hilaire, 
and a convent, By degrees, the town was built 
around the convent ; and from this island civili- 
zation first spread into the Upper Albgau, and 
the Brisgau. Part of the bones of Fridolin are 
deposited in a sarcophagus in the church of St. 
Hilaire, at Seckingen ; and outside the town is 
shown a stone altar, erected by him, as well as 
several other curiosities. 

Near Seckingen, the JFehr, which has its rise 
in the Black Forest, falls into the Rhine, and 
the latter then directs its course towards Rhein- 
felden, the fourth and last of the forest towns, 
which is situated three leagues lower, where there 
is a third fall of water, called the Hollhaken, or ! 
Geivild. A chain of rocks in the middle of the 
river, commencing a league above Rheinfelden, 
and extending as far beyond the bridge of the 
town, so much obstructs the course of the river, 
that the greatest care is necessary in boats pass- 
ing, as the space left open is not more than 
three feet wide. The effects of the fall, however, 
are not perceivable below the bridge, where the 
river becomes calm. A part of this bridge rests 
on a rock, on which the castle, whence the an- 
cient counts of Rheinfelden originated, formerly 
stood. This rock is called the Stein (the stone); 
near Rheinfelden. The castle was destroyed in 



TO RASTADT. 



41 



, the fifteenth century. The Duke Berthold II. 
| of Zahringen, who had married Agnes of Rhein- 
\ felden, the last branch of this family, founded 
' the town. It was in the vicinity of Rheinfelden 
; that the Emperor Albert was assassinated by 
i John of Suabia. 

Two leagues from Rheinfelden is Augst* an 
j insignificant village with a distinguished name ; 
for it was at this place, in the country of the 
ancient Rauracians, that the Emperor Augustus 
caused a town to be built, which received the 
name of Augusta Rauracorum. Attila or the 
Suevians pillaged it in the fifth century. Seve- 
ral objects, which existed in the time of the 
| Romans, are still to be seen there, such as the 
! Heidenloch, (Pagan's Hole,) a cavern, remains of 
baths, several towers on a height, &c. Several 
coins have likewise been found there, most of 
which have been placed in the cabinet of medals 
of Ammerbach, belonging to the University of 
Bale. The country-house belonging to the 
family of Ehinger, which is situated in the vici- 
nity of Augst, is worthy of observation. 

BALE, or BASLE, 

Is two leagues from Augst. This remarkable 
town is situated on a beautiful plain, enclosed 

* Two villages bear this name ; Kaiser Augst and Bale 
Augst; the first is situated in the canton of Argau, but both 
are situated on the site of the old Roman colony. 

E 3 



4.2 



I. FROM SCHAFFH AUSEtf 



on the Swiss side by heights and mountains. 
The Rhine, which still continues to flow with - 
impetuosity, crosses it and divides it in two i 
parts, called the great and little town. Below 
the first the Birs falls into the Rhine. This 
town is the most extensive in Switzerland, but 
it does not contain more than 15,000 inhabi- fi 
tants. At the time of the great council, it con- i 
tained 40,000. Bale was originally a Roman 
establishment. The Emperor Valentinian the I 
First, about the second century, built a castle 
there, which was called Robur Castellum. This 1 
castle having become a bishop's see, soon in- 
creased to a town, where a university was 
founded in 1460. The fairs held at Bale are I 
much frequented, and it carries on a consider- 
able trade. It has several cabinets, particularly 
one of Roman antiquities, in the garden For- 
kard. 

The other remarkable objects in this town 
are, — 1. The University, where the celebrated 
Erasmus, Oecolampadius, Bernouilli, Euler, 
Grynaeus, Wehrenfels, and others, disseminated 
knowledge. The library contains several valua- 
ble manuscripts; amongst which are, the Enco-* 
mium of Folly, by Erasmus, ornamented with |i 
drawings, executed with a pen, by Holbein ; and i* 
several volumes of original letters, written by 
celebrated men of the sixteenth century, The 
library has also a collection of antique medals, 
ancient engraved stones, bronze figures of several 



TO RASTADT. 43 

pagan gods, a cabinet of natural history, a col- 
| lection of engravings, a great number of pictures 
■ and drawings by Holbein, amongst which is his 
principal work, the Passion of Jesus Christ, and 
; the collections of the Fasch family, which, in 
I compliance with the direction of the founder, 
! have been added to the library, They consist 
i of pictures, drawings, medals, statues, coins, 
and books. — 2. The Botanical Garden, with 
1 the herbal of Bauhin. — 3. The Library of the 
Institute, founded by Frey and Gryne. — 4. The 
Arsenal, where the arms of Charles of Burgundy, 
surnarned the Bold, are preserved. — 5. The 
twenty Manufactories for Ribands. — 6. The Silk 
Manufactories. — 7. The Dyeing Establishments. 
1 — 8. The Leather Manufactories. — 9. Five Paper 
Mills. The Polytechnic Institute which was 
under the direction of Bernouilli, no longer 
I exists. 

! Besides those above-mentioned, there are 
numerous other objects calculated to excite the 
curiosity of travellers ; such as, — 1. The Cabinet 
of Arts of Mr. W. Haas, formerly Mechel. His 
foundry and geographical presses are curious. 
— 2. The Collection of Views and Costumes of 
Switzerland, belonging to M. M. Lamy, Birman 
and Son.— 3. The Cabinet of M. Bachofen, 
containing numerous pictures of the Flemish 
School. — 4. The Panorama of Marquard Wocher 
the painter. — 5, The Cabinet of Natural His- 
tory of M. Jerome Bernouilli. The famous 



44 I. FROM SCHAFFH AUSEN 

I 

Picture Todtentanz (dance of death) no longer 
exists ; but wood and copper engravings of it are : 
still shown. 

There are several reading-rooms at Bale, the 
principal of which are those of Otto and !i 
Holdenecker. 

The most remarkable buildings are, — 1. The 
Munster or Cathedral, which is of Gothic archi- 
tecture. It was originally constructed by Henry 
the Second, about the year 1010. The choir J 
and the two towers are evidently of the 11th or ; 
12th century. The towers on the side of the f 
portal are sculptured in the style of the 14th. t 
The baptismal fonts are curiously sculptured. P 
The Cathedral contains the tombs of Eras- 
mus, and of several other celebrated men of his 
time. The organ was formerly decorated with 
pictures by Holbein, but these have been com- 
pletely destroyed by time. In a building on the ! 
side of the church, is the hall where the great 
council held its sittings. — 2. The Arsenal, which 
has been mentioned before. — 3. The ancient N 
Palace of the Margrave of Baden, which now J 
belongs to the town. — 4. The Posthouse. — 5. 
The Town-house. — 6. The Kirschgarten. — 7. 
The New Assembly House, a handsome edifice. |' 
— 8. The summer Casino, outside the Gate of 
Aaeschen, near the Bernouilli garden, and close 1 
to the Monument in memory of the battle of 
St. James, a handsome pyramid forty feet in P 
height. 



TO It AST A DT. 



45 



The most frequented promenades are, — 1. The 
Pfalz, near the Munster, which is a terrace 
resting- on a wall that rises over the Rhine : it is 
planted with chestnut-trees, and commands a 
fine view of the river, the town, and the envi- 
rons. — 2. The Square of St. Peter, formerly a 
Jewish cemetery. — S. The Bridge of the Rhine. 

Among the gardens, of which there are a 
great number, the following are worthy of ob- 
servation : — 1. The Garden Forkard, mentioned 
before, at the Hotel Wurtemberg. — 2. The 
Garden of M. J. J. Fischer, behind the Munster, 
remarkable for its delightful situation. — 3. M. 
Guil. Haas' Garden at St. Leonhardsgrahen. 
The Society of Artists meets here every Thursday 
! evening during the summer. 

The principal country-houses worthy of notice 
are, — 1. That of the family Bernouilli, with a 
Garden, before the gate Aeschenthor. — 2. That 
of the family Laroche-Merian, before the gate 
St. Jean, in which the Duchess of Angouleme 
(daughter of Louis the Sixteenth) was exchanged, 
in 1 795, for the deputies of the national conven- 
tion, who had been arrested by Dumourier.— 3. 
That of the family Merian, on the side of the 
little town. 

There are also some delightful promenades in 
the environs of the town. 1 . The place called 
Bruderholz, where Randal of Habsburg had 
established his camp to threaten Bale, when he 
received intelligence of his election to the 



46 



I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN 



empire. — 2. The height where the church of 
St. Marguerite is situated, whence there is a 
fine prospect. 

If the traveller intends to stop long at Bale, 
he may make excursions to the environs, par- 
ticularly to Arlesheim. The road leading to it 
is rendered pleasing by the great variety ofi 
objects. The garden of Arlesheim, which was( 
ransacked during the revolution, has lately re-; 
sumed its original splendour. The road leading 
back to Bale, crosses the Bridge of Dornack,, 
where the Birs precipitates itself from the top 
of several rocks, and then passes through 
Reinach. 5 

A second excursion, which will afford no lessi 
pleasure than the first, is that to the village of 
Binningen, passing over the field of battle of St. 
James, where a famous red wine, called blood 
of the Swiss, is produced ; and thence to Bid, 
Benken, and Leimen, (villages of the department 
of the Upper Rhine,) crossing Bottmingen and 
AberwyL On this road is the old Castle of 
Landskron, situated on a mountain near the. 
small river Birseck. This chateau, and the rock 
on which it is situated, appear to have been 
originally a single mass. It commands a fine 
view. From this place, the traveller may go to 
the baths of Bruck Bourg, where there are nume- 
rous objects calculated to remind him of the 
Romans, the Germans, and the House of Habs- 
burg. He may likewise visit the Abbey of 
Maria Stein, situated in the vicinity, in a very 



TO RASTADT. 



47 



wild and picturesque part of the canton of Solo- 
thurn. From this abbey he may proceed to the 
baths of Flil hen, situated in a country equally 
wild, and then return to Bale, across flourishing 
fields. 

The road leading to the village of RiecJien, in 
the dependence of Bale, is equally attractive. 
About a quarter of a league distant, on a height, 
is the farm of Wenkenlwf, with an English 
garden. A footpath, which passes through the 
village of Bettingen, leads to the old church of 
St. Chrischonal, now falling to decay. The 
beauty of the adjacent country, and the glaciers 
seen in the distance, form a coup-d'oeil wholly 
unique. 

! Immediately below Bale is Hmingen, on the 
; left bank of the Rhine, where there was former- 
ly, as at Bingen, a rat-tower (Maus, Zoll.) Hu- 
I ningen has always been fortified since the 
I 17th century, notwithstanding the remonstrances 
of the thirteen Cantons. It has recently 
been dismantled, and the monument erect- 
ed to the French General Abatucci has been 
destroyed. 

Inns. The Three Kings, commanding a good 
view of the Rhine ; the Stork, the Savage, the 
Crown, and the Golden Head. 

In setting out from Bale, the traveller had 
better proceed by land than descend the Rhine, 
as the voyage to Strasburg presents no par- 
ticular pleasure, and is not without danger. 
All the country on the right bank is beautiful, 



48 I. FROM SCF1AFFHAUSEN 

and the traveller who follows the great road 
from Bale to Oflenburg, along the Black Fo- 1 
rest, will be continually gratified by delightful* 
prospects. 

On leaving the canton of Bale, the traveller - 
enters the Grand Duchy of Baden, near the } 
village of Eimeldingen on the Cander. The first !r 
interesting spot in this territory is the village off 
Weil, where there are several country-houses 1 
belonging to the citizens of Bale. Weil contains 
about 1000 inhabitants, and produces good wine.; 
The old Castle of Oetlikon, more recently called 
Fried 'lingen, which was destroyed by the French, 
was situated in this district. On ascending the 
mountain, the traveller reaches Tullingen, near 
the church of which there is a fine view. The 
traveller may see the small town of Lorrach, 
situated two leagues from Bale, very near the 1 ! 
Rhine,, at the end of the valiey. watered by the 
little river Wiesen. It has a school, and con- 
tains about 1800 inhabitants. The principal* 
building is a manufactory of printed calicoes, 
belonging to Merian and Kochlin. In former 
times it had a castle. 

Half a league beyond Lorrach, on a fertile 
mountain near the valley of Wiesenthal, is the 1 
castle of Rdteln, which the French blew up in 
1678. 

Rather more than a league from Lorrach, on 
the banks of the Rhine, are the castle and village 
of Istein, the prospect from which is beautiful. 1 
An excellent wine is made at this place, and in 



i 



TO RASTADT. 



49 



its vicinity is the Church of St. Veit, a celebra- 
ted place of pilgrimage. In order to keep up 
a communication with the villages situated in 
the environs on the banks of the Rhine, Prince 
Eugene of Savoy constructed a bridge, which 
crosses a precipice SO feet in height. Over 
this bridge he caused 6000 troops to pass in a 
single night. Every part of this country ex- 
hibits wild scenery. 

Five leagues from Bale is Kaitenherberg, which 
is the first post station on the Friburg road. 
The posthouse and an inn are the only build- 
ings. In its vicinity is the famous cavern of 
Erdmannsloch, or grotto of Bale, containing 
very beautiful stalactites, and superb columns 
of calcareous spath. 

From Kaitenherberg the road on the right 
leads to Candeni, not far from which are the 
ruins of the Castle of Sausenburg, once the resi- 
dence of the landgraves. It then passes to the 
small town of Schlietigen, famous for the battle, 
in 1706, between the Archduke Charles and 
Moreau. To the right is the village of Liel, 
with iron mines. The road then proceeds to 
Auggen, which produces wine. 

Four leagues from Kaitenherberg, and one 
league to the right of the road, is Badenzveiler. 
Mot far from this village is an old decayed 
castle of the same name, which is situated on 
the summit of an isolated and conical-shaped 
mountain, forming part of Mount Blauen. From 
the top of this mountain there is a beautiful 



50 



I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN 



view. The castle was originally called Baden- 
Baden, and was given by Duke Conrad of 
Zahringen as dowry to bis daughter Clementina, 
on her marriage with Duke Henry the Lion, in 
1147. By him it was given up to Frederick 
Barbarossa, and from the family of Hohen- 
staufen it repassed into that of Zahringen. The 
Counts of Friburg, after losing that town, fixed 
their residence at Badenweiler, and several of 
them were buried there. The castle was de- 
stroyed by the French in 1678. The baths at 
Badenweiler are much frequented, and the 
houses where they are established are most of 
them delightfully situated, particularly the house 
Herrschaftshaus. The most remarkable objects 
at Badenweiler are the Roman baths, disco- 
vered in 1784. These baths occupied a space 
of one hundred and twenty-six square roods : 
iu the centre they were eighty-one feet broad, on 
the side of the vestibules sixty-five feet, and 
their greatest breadth was two hundred and 
twenty-two feet, Rhenish measure. There were 
warm and cold baths, vapour baths, vestibules, 
and dressing-rooms. The walls of the interior 
are covered with a fine polished cement, of a red 
colour. An altar, still in existence, proves that 
these baths were consecrated to Diana Abnoba. 
A short distance north of the baths was a manu- 
factory of vases. On clearing these curious 
ruins, a large quantity of medals and broken 
vases w r ere discovered : the latter bore the names 
of their makers. Weinbrenner supposes these 



TO RASTADT. 



51 



| baths to be more in the Greek than in the 
Roman style. He has proposed a plan for their 
| complete restoration. The mountain behind Ba- 
! denweiler is called the Hochblauen, or High 
! Blauen, and is 3595 feet above the level of the 
Mediterranean. From its top may be seen the 
mountains behind the town of Berne, covered 
with snow, a great part of Alsace, &c. 

A league to the left of Mullheim, on the banks 
of the Rhine, is the small town of Neuenburg. It 
was besieged by Bernard of Weimar, who, irritated 
by its obstinate defence, swore, according to the 
proverb, that he would not leave either cat or 
dog alive. Having, however, obtained posses- 
sion, he repented, but kept his word, by killing 
only the cats and dogs. 

The small town of Mullheim, which is a post 
station, is one league from Badenweiler, and 
five from Kaltenherberg. Its situation in the 
middle of a fertile valley, which is closed on one 
side by the mountain of Hochblauen, and on the 
other by hills planted with vines, gives it a 
pleasant appearance. The height of Rebenhag 
produces an excellent wine ; and from this, as 
well as from the height of Luginsland, just by, 
there is a delightful prospect. The baths of 
Mullheim are of little importance. In its envi- 
rons is an iron mine. Mullheim is a very ancient 
town, of which mention is made in writings of 
the eighth century. 

The first post station beyond Mullheim is at 
Krotzingen, the name of which was borne by a 



52 



I. FROM SCH AFFH A USEN 



noble family as far back as the sixth century. 
In order to reach it, the traveller passes through 
the villages of Hugelheim and Seefelclen. At a 
little distance to the right is the small town of 
Heitemheim, where the German grand prior of 
the Order of St. John of Jerusalem resided before I 
the Revolution. To the right of the road, a 
league from Krotzingen, and at the foot of the 
mountains, is the small town of Staufen, with 
the ruins of a castle. According to a tradition, 
the nobles of Staufen were a branch of the 
Zahringen family, which became extinct with 
George Leo, in 1602. The Casfelberg,so called 
probably from a Roman fort, vestiges of which 
may still be traced, and situated above Staufen, 
produces the best wine in the Grand Duchy. 

In going from Krotzingen to Friburg, the tra- 
veller will do well to pass through Vitux Breisac. 
This place, which was originally situated on the 
left bank of the Rhine, and which is now trans- 
ferred to the right, (the river having changed 
its course,) was most probably founded by Dru- 
sus, who established a fort on the mountain 
(?nons brisiacus). A long time afterwards, the 
Duke Berth old the Fifth, of Zahringen, built a 
strong castle on the same spot. The mountain, 
which is of basalt, borders the Rhine, and on it 
may still be seen the church of St. Stephen. In 
a silver coffin, within this church, are deposited 
the bones of the martyrs Gervas and Protas, 
which were transferred to this place during the 
reign of Frederick Barbarossa. The wooden 



TO It A ST A DT. 



53 



figures which decorate the grand altar are worthy 
of observation, as well as the tombs of several 
celebrated generals. In 1793, this town was re- 
duced to ashes by the French. The fortifications 
were rebuilt in 1796 and 1805, but have since 
been destroyed by the Court of Baden. The 
prospect which the traveller may enjoy from the 
spot where the strong castle formerly stood, is 
astonishing : he can see, at one view,' the vol- 
canic mountain Kaiserstuhl,* the wood of firs of 
the Black Forest, the bluish mountains of Alsace, 
the town of Neu Breisac,f with Fort Mortier ; 
and at his feet, the town with its ancient ram- 
parts. On the south side is Mount Eggardsberg, 
where the citadel formerly stood, and on which 
there is a monument erected in honour of the 
Grand-Duke Charles Frederick of Baden. The 

* The Kaiserstuhl is an isolated mountain situated in the 
valley of the Rhine, which is about eight leagues in breadth, 
nearly in the centre between the foot of the Black Forest 
and the Vosges. It commands a fine view of Alsace, the 
Brisgau, the Rhine, the Black Forest, the Vosges, Stras- 
burg, and the environs of Bale. The summit, or Kaiser- 
stuhl properly so called, near nine linden-trees, is 1762 feet 
above the sea. The way to it from Friburg is by the village 
of Ober S chaff hausen, at its foot, or from Brissac, by Ach- 
karn and Bickensol. The latter mode leads first to the height 
called Death's Head. Other parts of the mountain are 
named St. Catherine's Chapel (1562 feet above the sea), and 
Eichelspitze. 

t Neu Breisac was founded in 1699, and fortified by 
Vauban. It forms a regular octagon as well as Fort Mortier, 
which is at a short distance. The town of Saint Louis, on an 
island in the Rhine, was demolished after the peace of 
Rvswick. 

F 3 



54 



t. FROM SCHAl'FHAUSEK 



direct road from Krotzingen to Friburg does not 
pass through Vieux Breisac, but through Nor- 
singen, which produces good red wine, Wolf en- 
weiler, and St. George, where it joins the road 
from Breisac. This small town has not existed 
more than two centuries. To the right of the I 
road is the Schcenberg, which is in the form of an 
extinct volcano. There is a manufactory here for 
pendulums, watches, &c. 

FRIBURG. 

Is situated five leagues from Breisac. This 
ancient capital of the Brisgau is situated at the 
head of the chain of mountains of the Black 
Forest, which extends its branches to the right 
and left from this place. The river Dreysam 
which flows from the valley of # Hollenthal, situa- 
ted in the vicinity, passes east of this town. 
Friburg was founded in 1118, by Berthold, 
second Duke of Zahringen ; and in 1368 it sub- 
mitted to the Austrian dominion. It contains 
about 10 2 000 inhabitants. 

The most remarkable objects are, — l.The 
Munster, one of the most beautiful and perfect 
old cathedrals in Germany. The first founda- 
tions of it were laid by Conrad, Duke of Zahrin- 
gen, between 1122 and 1152, and it was finished 
by Conrad I., Count of Friburg. A century 
later, the choir was rebuilt and enlarged. This 
church is built in the form of a cross. The prin- 
cipal door is beneath the tower, which rises 
about 380 English feet in height. The principal 
objects here worthy of notice are, the tombs of 



TO It A STABS. 



55 



| the Princes of Zahringen, amongst which is 
that of Berthold V. ; the Holy Family sculp- 

I tured in stone ; the pictures of the grand altar 
by John Baldungsur, (named Grien,) curious 

| specimens of the old German school ; the trea- 
sures of the sacristy ; and the painted windows. 
In the chapel of the University at the Munster 
are several pictures by Holbein. — 2. The Kauf- 
haus, or Custom- House, which is an old Gothic 
building.— 3. The Theatre.— 4, The Corn Hall. 
— 5. The Fountain in the Fisrhmarkt, (Fish 
Market,) with the Monument of the Founder of 
the town. — 6. The University, which was found- 
ed in 1454. It has a very excellent library; a 
cabinet of natural history, transferred from the 
abbey of St. Blaise ; a collection of philosophical 
instruments, which, belonged to the convent of 
Salem ; a botanical garden, and an anatomical 
theatre. It has ^pensions for indigent students. 
- — 7. The Hospitals. — 8. The Foundling Hospi- 
tal. — 9. The Garden Industriegarten. — 10. The 
New House of the Museum Society. — 11. The 
Archbishop's Palace. — 12. The Seminary; all 
three built in good style. 

The best situations to see the town and its en- 
virons are from the top of the mountain Schloss- 
berg, where the citadel formerly stood, and the 
hill of Loretto, a quarter of a league from the 
town. 

The most delightful promenades are. — I. The 
Giint herstal, an ancient convent of nuns, where 
only the nobility are received. It is situated 
in a delightful valley, one league from Friburg. 



56 



I. FROM SCH AFFH AUSEN 



On a rock not far from this place, are the ruins 
of a castle which was inhabited by Gunther, the 
founder of the convent. — 2. To the Chartreuse, 1 
which is situated in a dreary country, at about a 
league from Friburg. On one side of it is a 
farm, an inn, and two mills. — 3. To St. George's, i 
one league from Friburg, where there is a very i 
good school. — 4. To St. Barbe, a hermitage with t 
a church. — 5. The Mountain Ottilienburg, with r 
a cavern excavated in the rock, where Ottilia 
retired to escape the pursuit of his enemies. — 6. t 
To Mont St. Jean, the situation of which is ex- I 
tremely picturesque. — 7. To Ebnet, where there 
is a chateau and garden. — 8. To the ruins of the 
old castle of Zahringen, a league from Friburg, 
near the village of Zahringen. The situation of 
this old castle is delightful ; and it commands a 
view, on one side, of the most beautiful parts of 
the Brisgau and Alsace; and on the other, of 
the valleys of Wildthal, Fehrenthal, and Glo- 
terthal. 

Four leagues east of Friburg is the Hollenthal, 
(Infernal Valley,) which has a most dreadful 
appearance. The road is lost at the bottom of a I 
strait, formed by masses of rock. It was by this 
pass that General Moreau made his famous ] 
retreat in 1796. 

Inns. The Count of Zahringen, the Golden 
Lamb, the Swords, the Angel. The Golden 
Head is a good coffee-house. 

From Friburg, the road passes through Gnndel- 
tingen and Langendenzlingen. Between these two 



TO II A ST A DT. 



57 



j villages is seen, on the right, the valley of Glot- 
ter with baths ; and at the foot of Mont Candel, 
I the ruins of the castle of Schwarzenberg, 

Three leagues from Friburg, on the Elz and 
j on the Brettma, is the small town of Emmendin- 
i gen, situated in a very beautiful country. It is 
a post station. On a hill, on this side of it, are 
j the ruins of the castle of Hochburg or Hockberg, 
j the most extensive in the Grand- Duchy, except 
' those of Heidelberg. A carriage can ascend as 
I far as the farm, whence the visitor must proceed 
on foot, passing the Elz and the village of Was- 
, ser, which is sometimes inundated. The build- 
! ing called Burgvogtey was the residence of the 
Margraves of Hochberg. The school at this 
place was frequented by the celebrated Keppler 
and Schopflin. It has a reading-room, which was 
established in 1775. Outside the town is a ma- 
nufactory of coloured papers. To the right, on 
the mountain, are the ruins of the castle of 
Mahlek, which belonged to the family of Schnewlm 
Mahleck. 

The road then passes the villages of Kctndrin- 
gen and Hacklingen ; on the right is the village of 
Malterdingen, with much frequented baths. Near 
Hecklingen are the ruins of the castle of Lichteneck, 
The Prince of Schwarzenberg, the late proprietor 
of the Lordship of Lichteneck, sold it to the 
Grand Duke of Baden in 1812. An idle tradi- 
tion is current, that in the well of the castle is a 
silver bell, which rings on Christmas-Eve. 

On this side Kenzingen, the road passes the 



58 I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN 

EIz by a handsome bridge. Wonnethal, formerly 
a convent of nuns, is to the right. It wa 
founded in the thirteenth century by Rodolph o 
Usenberg, and experienced many reverses in the 
wars between the Counts of Friburg and Ken 
zingen. 

Kenzingen is a post station, three leagues from 
Emmendingen. This small town was consumed 
a few years back by fire, but has been since re 
built. It is a place of great antiquity, being 
mentioned in the grant by Otho the Great, in 
972. It was raised to the rank of town by Ba 
ron d' Usenberg, and had the same privileges as 
Friburg. 

Below Kenzingen, a quarter of a league to the 
right of the road, and in a valley, is the village 
of Wagenstatt, where a battle took place, in 
which the militia of the Brisgau and town of 
Friburg distinguished themselves. This event 
occurred July 7, 1796, and the anniversary is 
celebrated at Friburg. A quarter of a league 
behind Wagenstatt, on a mountain, are the ruins 
of Kirnberg* To this castle formerly belonged 
the whole of the surrounding canton, including 
the small towns of Kenzingen and Endingen 
The arms of Kirnberg are still visible at the gates 
of the former. 

Continuing his journey, the traveller passes 
the village of Herbolzheim, where tobacco was 
first cultivated in this country, and that of 
Ringsheim. The Shrine of St. Mary-at-Sand is 



T(i RASTADT. 



59 



| situated on the side of the road between Ken- 
zingen and Herbolzheim. The image of the 
j Virgin was found in the sand of the little river 
! Bleich, and put into a church. The road passes 
| the river Bleich, which formerly separated the 
j Montingau and the Brisgau, and was for some 
time the boundary between Germany and 
! Rhenish Franconia. At Ringsheim are remains 
j of a Templar's house, consisting of a large 
! quadrangular wall, at the corners of which are 
i traces of towers. A short distance farther is the 
toll-house of Ettenheim, from which the unfortu- 
nate Duke d'Enghien was conveyed to the other 
bank of the Rhine. The small town of Etten- 
heim is situated on the side of the road on the 
Undiz or Ettenbach, so called from Etto or Etti- 
cho, on the site of whose castle there is now a 
church. At Ettenheim also, are the old palace of 
; the Bishop of Strasburg, and the houses of se- 
veral noble families. 

A league from the road, and in a valley be- 
tween Kenzingen and Friesenheim, is the an- 
cient Abbey of Ettenheimmiinster. It was found- 
ed in the seventh century. A quarter of a 
league from the convent, and nearer the road, is 
the bath of St. Landelin, and a church, in which 
this saint was interred. Landelin was a Scotch 
noble, who, about the year 640 9 settled near the 
ruins of the castle of Gisenburg, in this valley, 
which was then uncultivated. The road leading 
to St. Landelin quits the high road between the 



60 



I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN 



toll-house and Kippenheim, and passes through 
Altdorf, and near Ettenhtim, Altdorf belongs to 
the Baron de Turkheim the historian. 

At a short distance from the road, and on the 
side towards the Rhine, is MaJMerg, with a cas- 
tle evidently of Roman construction, where the 
Franks held their courts of justice, called Mall- 
gerichte. The history of the later times men- 
tions the lords of Mahlberg, who were succeeded 
by the Hohenstaufen family, one of whom, Con- 
rad III., built the town on the brow of the hill* 

Kippenheim is a post station, four leagues from 
Kenzingen. The road divides at the ancient 
village of Mietersheim, and leads to Lahr 9 about 
a league from Kippenheim. This town is seat- 
ed on the Schoutter, and contains 5 or 6000 in- 
habitants. It carries on a considerable trade, 
and its manufactures of cloth and stuffs occupy 
more than 300 workmen. It has also two con- 
siderable snuff manufactories, and several dis- 
tinguished commercial houses. The town itself 
is small, but it has been considerably enlarged 
by the addition of the suburb, in which there 
are several beautiful buildings and gardens. The 
environs of Lahr are pretty, and the valley of 
Schoutter presents great variety. In this val- 
ley, one league and a half above Lahr, is the 
market- town of Seelbach, where there is a cotton 
factory, and an establishment for dyeing red. 
Lahr was formerly the property of the Counts of 
Hohengeroldseck. The old castle, which bears 
this name, is situated on a mountain in the envi- 



TO RASTADT, 



6! 



rons. It was probably erected by the Romans, and 
afterwards destroyed by the Germans. Gerold the 
First, brother-in-law of Charlemagne, rebuilt it, 
and left it to his son, Gerold the Second. The 
French General Crequi blew it up in 1697, when 
I the same fate befel several other towns and strong 
| castles in the Ortenau and Brisgau. Some idea 
| may be formed of its extent from the ruins which 
, still exist. On the northern side there is a fine 
view, which embraces great part of Alsace, and 
on the east side are seen the valley of Kinzigthal, 
| and the spot where the town of Prinzbach for- 
j merly stood. The road to Biberach passes the 
foot of the mountain. 

The village of Dhiglingeii is a quarter of a 
! league below Muttersheim, whence another road 
leads to Lahr, and a second through Ichenheim 
and Altenheim to Kehl and Strasburg. A stone 
bridge was erected over the Schoutter at Dinglin- 
gen, in 1819. In laying the foundations, a 
number of Roman coins were discovered. 

Friesenheim is a village and post station six 
leagues from Kenzingen. The abbey of Schut- 
tern, on the river Schutter, near Friesenheim, is 
particularly remarkable for its antiquity, as it is 
said that, as far back as the sixth century, a 
young Briton, named Offb, of the blood royal, 
established a convent there. The church of this 
abbey is handsome. 

From Friesenheim the traveller passes through 
Niederschopfheim and Hofweyer. In the former 
village is a glass-house. Three leagues from 

G 



62 



I. FROM SCIIAFFHAUSEN 



Friesenheim, and about the same distance from 
Schuttern, on the Kinzig, is 

OFFENBURG. 

This ci-devant imperial town was likewise 
founded by Offo, from whom it took the name 
of Offoburg (castle of Offo). The position of 
this town commands the entrance of the valley 
of Kinzigthal. It contains 3400 inhabitants, 
and, till the peace of Presburg, was the residence 
of the grand imperial bailiff of the Ortenau. 
The seat of the chapter of the cathedral of 
Strasburg was transferred to this place during 
the first years of the Revolution. The town has ; 
a very pleasant appearance, and is situated at 
the junction of several great roads : the principal 
are the road from Frankfort to Bale, and to the 
Kinzigthal, and that from Strasburg, which 
divides into several branches. In the old Fran- 
ciscan convent is an institution for young ladies, 
which has been transferred from Ottersweyer. i 
The college occupies the ci-devant capuchin 
convent. The parish church is remarkable for 
its construction. Several monuments dated in 
the time of the Romans, have been covered over i 
by the Kinzig, in which they may be seen when 
the waters of this river are low. One of these 
monuments, namely, a sepulchral stone with an 
inscription, has been taken out within a few 
years. 



TO RASTADT. 



63 



Inns. The Fortune Hotel is an excellent 
house, indeed it is the only good inn. The 
others are the Posthouse and the Crown. 

The beautiful valley of Kinsigthal commences 
a short distance east of OfTenburg. A league 
from this place is the village of Ortenberg, with 
the ruins of an old castle, in the environs of 
which the best red wine in the Grand Duchy is 
made. 

One league from Ortenberg is Genge?ibach s an 
ancient imperial town with an abbey of Benedic- 
tines, which formerly belonged to the empire. 
The valley between Ortenberg and Gengenbach 
presents great variety, and abounds with delight- 
ful views. The abbey is more ancient than the 
town, Arnoul, grandson of Pepin, who dis- 
played great zeal for the propagation of Chris- 
tianity in the country of Ortenau, had intended 
to build an abbey there, but was prevented by 
death ; and his son Ruthard executed his 
father's plan about the year 736. A Latin 
school was afterwards established in the abbey, 
and several of the abbots were distinguished for 
their learning. The church is handsome. In 
the English garden, near this monastery, is a 
Roman altar dedicated to Jupiter, which was 
found in the mountain of Castelberg, in the 
vicinity. No remains of the castle of Ruthard, 
which was situated at the foot of Mount Castel- 
berg, are now visible. Gengenbach contains 
about 1800 inhabitants. The Abbey, the Town- 



64 



I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN 



house, the Kaufhaus (Custom House), the New 
Hospital, the Church of St. Martin, and that 
of Bergkirche, are the principal buildings. 

Inns. The Eagle, and the Court of Baden. 

From OfFenburg there is a post road to Kehl 
and Strasburg, and another to Baden and Ra- 
stadt. The latter passes through Appenweyer and 
Achern, which are post stations. On the road, 
half a league from Offenburg, is seen the castle 
of Staufenberg, built by Otto of Hohenstaufen, 
Bishop of Strasburg, in the 11th century. This 
was the scene of the romance of Peter of Stau- 
fenberg. In the vicinity is the vineyard of 
Durbach. 

The road from Appenweyer leads through the 
hamlet of Zimmern to Renchen, formerly a con- 
siderable town. A league and a quarter farther 
is Achern, raised to the rank of a town w r ithin a 
few years ; and a quarter of a league beyond it 
Sasbach, at which is the monument to Turenne, 
who was killed there, July 27th, 1675. A 
league and a half from Sasbach is the post 
station of Buhl. 

In order to reach Strasburg, the traveller pro- 
ceeds along the great road to Kehl, four leagues 
from OfFenburg. Before the Revolution, this 
town contained 1200 inhabitants, and was very 
opulent. During the war it suffered consider- 
ably, but is gradually reviving. The fortifica- 
tions have been destroyed. Kehl is a post station. 
The neighbouring village of the same name, 



TO RASTADT. 



65 



which was three times burnt by the French, is 
rebuilding. 

A bridge of boats leads from Kehl to Stras- 
burg, which is a league distant. On the road 
may be seen the monument erected by Buona- 
parte to the memory of General Dessaix. It 
consists of a pyramid with four bas-reliefs, exe- 
cuted by Ohmacht, an excellent artist of Stras- 
burg, from designs by Weinbrenner. 

On coming from Kehl, the traveller may enter 
the town either by the citadel or by the butchers' 
gate. 

STRASBURG 

Contains about 50,000 inhabitants, is situated 
121 post leagues from Paris, and 108 leagues from 
Lyons. The rivers Til and Breusch, which are 
both navigable, cross the town and enter the 
Rhine. The streets are most of them narrow, 
the houses very lofty, and every part has the 
appearance of an ancient imperial town of Ger- 
many. It contains 269 streets, including four- 
teen places of large or small dimensions, and the 
number of houses amounts to 3612, exclusive 
of the public buildings. There were fourteen 
bridges over the 111, and the town is separated 
from its suburbs by ditches, which formed part 
of the old fortifications. 

Strasburg is divided into four cantons. It 
has four justices of the peace, four commis- 

G 3 



66 



I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN 



sioners of police, seven Lutheran churches, seven 
Catholic churches, and one Reformed church. 
Since the union of this city with France, the 
cathedral has been given to the Catholics, and 
a new church constructed for the Lutherans. ! 
Strasburg is also the residence of a bishop for , 
the two departments of the Upper and Lower 
Rhine. He has under his direction the chapter 
of the cathedral, a seminary, and a minor theolo- 
gical school. It is likewise the seat of the 
General Consistory of the Confession of Augs- 
burg for several departments of France, and has 
a seminary connected with them. Here also is 
one of the two consistorial churches for the 
department of the Lower Rhine. The other is i 
at Bischweiler. Various officers connected with 
the business of the department reside at Stras- 
burg. 

Strasburg was a remarkable place in the time 
of the Romans ; and several military roads led 
from it to Milan, Treves, and Leyden. The town 
was burnt by Attila, but was repaired in the 
6th century, when it was called Strateburgum, 
(castle near the road,) a name which it still 
bears. It has always been considered Ger- 
many's bulwark against France. In 1681, at 
a time of peace, Louis XIV. occupied Stras- 
burg, which he found without a garrison. He 
also constructed several considerable fortifica- 
tions, and placed on the door of the citadel this 
inscription : servat et observat. 

The most remarkable objects at Strasburg 



TO II AST A DT. 



67 



are, — 1. The Munster : the first church of this 
name was built by Clovis, about the year 53 : 
Charlemagne added a choir to it; but this 
edifice was entirely reduced to ashes in 1007, by 
lightning. In 1015, Bishop Werner, of the House 
of Habsburg, laid the foundation of the new 
cathedral, which was finished in 1275. In 
1276, the construction of the tower was com- 
menced, under the direction of Ervvin of Stein- 
bach. The figures and ornaments of the portal 
were executed by his daughter. Erwin dying 
in 1318, his son John continued the work. Both 
father and son were buried in the Munster. 
The building proceeded slowly till the 15th 
century, when it was finished in 1439, under 
the direction of John Hulz of Cologne. The 
most curious objects in this building are, — 1. 
The painted windows ; the Baptistery ; the 
tombs of John Geiler, of Kaisersberg, and of 
Bishop Conrad II., of the house of Lichtenberg, 
who commenced the erection of the Munster ; 
the tomb of John Maentelin, the first printer of 
Strasburg ; and the tombs of Erwin and his 
son. The tower is 490 Strasburg feet in height, 
which is six or eight feet more than St. Peter's 
at Rome. It may be ascended without difficulty 
or danger, as far as the roof, whence there is 
a fine view. Those who wish to ascend the 
steeple, must procure from the keeper who lives 
in the tower, the keys of the iron door above the 
crown. He also sells a small book, containing 
an account of the Munster. The telegraph is 



68 I. FROM SCHAFFH AUSEN 

! 

placed on the roof, above the choir of the ji 
church. — 2. The Church of St. Thomas, con- \ 
taining the tomb of Marshal Saxe, executed II 
by Pigalle ; the monument of Schopflin, erected 
by his sister, and those of Oberlin and Koch, I 
executed by Ohmacht. In one of the vaults of 
this church are some bodies in good preserva- !] 
tion, supposed to belong to the family of the : 
Counts of Nassau. — 3. The ci-devant Episcopal 
or Imperial Palace. — 4. The ci-devant Catholic 
School, on the side of the Munster, containing i 
the University's halls and offices. — 5. The New i 
Theatre near the Broglio, adorned with statues, Si 
by Ohmacht. — 6. The Library of the University, i? 
which has been formed from more than one \ 
hundred libraries of the departments, and is 
particularly rich in ancient prints. — 7. The 
Library of the ancient Protestant University, to 
which that of Schopflin has been added. It 
contains a great number of works on classical 
literature, and on the study of antiquities, and 
historical writings relating to Strasburg and 
Alsace. — 8. The Cabinet of Antiquities of 
Schopflin. It forms part of the town library, 
and contains Greek, Roman, and French monu- 
ments, as well as others from Egypt and Etruria. j 
It likewise contains several lares, vases, medals, I 
&c— - 9. The Cabinet of Mechanism, in the New 
Church, where there are two pictures, and a 
wooden model of the town and its fortifications, 
— 10. The Observatory, with the astronomical 
instruments. — 11. The Botanical Garden. — 12. 



TO RASTADT. 



69 



The Civil Hospital, which contains an anato- 
mical theatre and the Military Hospital. — 13. 
The Collection of Pictures, under the direction 
of M. Guerin, a skilful painter and engraver. 

Besides the above objects, there are several 
others worthy of attention ; such as the Arsenal, 
the Foundry, the Barracks, the New Pavilion 
and Orangery, the Polygon, the School of In- 
dustry, and the Lancasterian School. 

Strasburg has but few manufactories. The 
principal are a sail-cloth factory, two for che- 
mical articles, two cotton factories, and a copper 
foundry. There are also numerous jewellers, 
some booksellers' shops, and printing-offices. 
The traveller will find at Treuttel and Wurtz's, 
or Levrault's, most of the French and German 
publications. 

The public squares are, the Broglio, laid out 
by Marshal Broglio in 1740; the Contades, formed 
by the Marshal of that name in 1764 ; and the 
Grand Parade, or Place des Cordeliers. 

The environs of Strasburg consist of gardens ; 
and the quantity of vegetables and fruits of the 
best kind gathered there is so great, that they 
are sent to the markets of Baden and Carlsruhe. 
A much frequented promenade is the Ruprecht- 
sau, where there .are some walks and gardens laid 
out with very good taste. This promenade is 
about a quarter of a league from the Porte des 
Pecheurs. It forms one immense garden in 
which are not less than 370 houses. 

A diligence sets out from Strasburg to Paris 



70 



I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN 



every other day, that is, on the 2d, 4th, 6th, &c. 
There are also diligences from Strasburg to May- 
ence, which are about two days on the road. 

Inns. Le St. Esprit, the Red House, the Town 
of Lyons, the Town of Vienna, the Flower. 

At Strasburg the Rhine takes the name of 
Upper Rhine, which it retains as far as Mayence : 
whence, to Cologne, it is called Middle Rhine, 
and from Cologne to the mouths in Holland, the 
Lower Rhine. Vessels of large burden have much 
difficulty in descending the river as far as Stras- 
burg, and it is not till it reaches Spire that the 
navigation becomes important. As the banks of 
the river are extremely flat and uninteresting, the 
traveller, on leaving Strasburg, will do well to 
take the great road along the right bank of the 
Rhine, on which are situated the towns of Vill- 
stadt and Lichtenau. This road passes across 
the small county of Hanau-Lichtenberg, which 
is remarkable for the fertility of its soil, as well 
as for its inhabitants, who are distinguished from 
their neighbours by their beautiful shape, their 
costume, and their manners. 

Several of the Bishops of Strasburg belonged 
to the Lichtenberg family. Amongst them was 
Conrad III. the founder of the Cathedral, who 
converted the village of Lichtenau into a town 
and fortress. 

The first post station beyond Kehl is Bischoff- 
sheim, called am Hohenstcg, which is three leagues 
distant. During the 17th, and even in the 18th 



TO RASTADT. 



71 



century, this market town was the place of resi- 
dence of the Counts of Hanau. 

Four leagues from BischofTsheim is Stollhofen, 
the second post station, whence the famous line 
of defence, which was so long inaccessible to the 
French, extended towards Buhl and Kapell. It 
was formed under the direction of the Margrave 
Louis of Baden,, in 1703. A quarter of a league 
j from Stollhofen, on the side of the road, is the 
village of Schwarzach, where there is an abbey 
of Benedictines. At the commencement of the 
eighth century, this abbey was situated in the 
island of Arnufsau, not far from Drusenheim : 
but it has been since removed to its present posi- 
tion, near the river Schwarzwasser, 

From Stollhofen the traveller proceeds to 
Rastadt, which is a post station. The road how* 
ever is very monotonous. 

RASTADT 

Was formerly the residence of the Margraves 
of Baden-Baden. It is situated on the Murg, 
and is celebrated for the negociations for peace 
in 1714 between Prince Eugene and Marshal 
Villars ; as well as for the congresses of 1797 and 
1799. It has 3000 inhabitants. The most re- 
markable objects are, — 1. The Castle, built by the 
Margravine Sybilla Augusta, of Saxe Lauenburg, 
wife of the great General, the Margrave Louis 
William. In the apartments are the various tro- 



72 



I. FROM SCHAFFHAUSEN 



phies which he obtained from Turkey, and some 
pictures. The front is surmounted by an obser- 
vatory, on which is a gilt statue of Jupiter. — 2. 
The Steel Factory. — 3. The Lyceum, transferred 
from Baden. — 4. The Catholic Seminary.— 5. 
The Baths of the Murg. 

Rastadt has a printing-office, and a considera- 
ble road trade. It also exports snuff-boxes made 
of paper. Promenades may be made to the 
Rheinau, Niederbuhl, the Favorite, and Kuppen- 
heim. A pleasant excursion may also be made to 
Mannheim, on the rafts which come down the 
Murg. 

Inns. The Three Kings, the Golden Cross, 
the Post House, the Sun. 

EXCURSION 

FROM RASTADT TO BADEN, THE MURGTHAI, 
AND THE BLACK FOREST. 

- 

A long and dark chain of lofty mountains runs 
parallel to the Rhine from the Northern frontier 
of Switzerland to the Enz, near Pforzheim. The 
Germans called it Markwald, and the Romans 
Sylva Marciana. In later times it has received 
the appellation of S chic ar rue aid, Black Forest, 
from the gloomy appearance of its firs. Amongst 
the numerous streams which have their source in 
this district, are the Danube, the Neckar, the 
Wutach, the Schwarzach, the Cander, the Visee, 
the Treisam, the Schutter, the Kinzig, the Murg, 



TO BADEN. 



n 



j the Enz, the Nagold, the Alb, &c. Most of 
these flow through pleasant valleys towards the 
j West, and fall into the Rhine. In the most 
beautiful of these valleys, 2 leagues from Ras- 
tadt, and 7 from Carlsruhe, is situated Baden. 

BADEN. 

The civitas aurelia aquensis of the Romans, 
and for six centuries the residence of the Mar- 
graves, is situated on the small river Os, (here 
called the Oehlbach,) which was formerly the line 
of separation between the duchy of Germany and 
Rhenish France, and has in latter times divided 
the Bishopric of Spire from that of Strasburg. 
Part of the town is situated on the declivity of a 
mountain, whence the mineral waters spring, and 
on the ridge of which is the castle. It is two 
leagues from the Rhine, and not quite a league 
from the great road (Bergstrasse) from Frankfort 
to Bale. The mountains around, the highest of 
which is the Staufen, or Mercuriusberg, (Moun- 
tain of Mercury,) are most of them covered with 
firs, except the lower parts, where there are oaks 
and beech trees, interspersed with cultivated 
lands. The town must have been much larger 
in former times, and before it was burnt, with the 
greater part of the towns of the Palatinate and 
Margraviate of Baden, during the war of the suc- 
cession of Orleans. It is irregularly built. The 
houses are generally small, and erected on so 
steep a declivity, that in many instances the 
ii . • 



74 DESCRIPTION OF BADEN. 

upper floors and the gardens are on a level. The 
old walls and gates have been destroyed, Baden 
now contains 400 houses, and 2,600 inhabitants, 
all of whom, with the exception of a few Jews, 
are Catholics. The town suffered much from the 
inundations in October 1824. 

The most remarkable objects are, — 1. The 
Castle, which is surrounded by a delightful coun- | 
try. It was built by the Margraves in the thir- 
teenth century, and rebuilt by Philip in 1579. The 
French destroyed it, and reconstructed it in its 
present state. The subterranean caverns deserve 
notice ; they were probably a work of the Ro- 
mans, and afterwards served as an asylum to the 
secret tribunal, which held its sittings there. 
The apartments of the Castle are shown to stran- 
gers. — 2. The Conversationshaus, formerly a con- 
vent of Jesuits ; the schools belonging to which 
were first converted into lyceums, and then trans- 
ferred to Rastadt. The situation is charming, 
and it contains some baths, but it is principally 
used for balls and entertainments. The great 
hall is 100 feet by 40. The church has been 
demolished, with the exception of the choir, 
which has been changed to a room for play. — 3. 
The Hall of Antiquities, behind the parochial j 
church in the place called Ursprung, was built 
from designs by Weinbrenner. The front is 1 
adorned with four columns of the Doric order. 
This cabinet contains most of the Roman monu- 
ments found in Baden and its environs. The 
most interesting are, a monument dedicated to 



DESCRIPTION OF BADEN. 



75 



Neptune, two sepulchral stones, several mile- 
stones, an inscription in honour of Caracalla, 
who founded, or at least embellished the baths, 
a statue of Mercury, and three altars of Her- 
cules, which were brought from the village of 
Au, near the Rhine. — 4. The ancient College 
Church, which is now the parish church. It 
was built in the eighth century, but has been 
often repaired since. It is supposed to have been 
founded by the Monks of Wissemburg, to whom 
the baths belonged. Most of the catholic Mar- 
graves, since the Margrave Bernard died in 1241, 
have been buried there. Amongst the sepul- 
chres, that of the Margrave Leopold William is 
remarkable. Six altar-pieces, painted by Lill, 
after the originals by Guido Reni, deserve no- 
tice. — 5. The Convent of Nuns called zumheili- 
gen Grab* A school for girls, and an establish- 
ment where young persons of the other sex are 
educated, form part of the convent. — 6. The 
Hospital, which is situated on the side of the 
baths of the poor. The church is the most an- 
cient in all the country of Baden ; and it con- 
tains some sepulchral stones, on which are in- 
scribed the names of several great men. 

The Baths are supplied by thirty springs of 
various quality and temperature. That outside 
the town is the least copious. The following are 
their names, with their temperature, according 
to Reaumur. — 1. The Bruhbrunnen, in which 
poultry and pigs are scalded, 50° 5'. — 2. and 3. 
The Kuhlenbrunnen. First Spring, 43° 75'. 



76 



DESCRIPTION OF BADEN. 



Second spring 37° 50'. — 4. The Butte has four 
springs, which issue from a rock at the end of 
a dark corridor of the Baldreith. The first is 
52°; the second 53°; the third 45°; and the 
fourth 40°.— 5. The Hceilenquelle springs from 
the garden, called the Hoelle, behind the Ur- 
sprung, 52° 8'. — 6. and 7. The Judenquelle, 
close to the Bruhbrunnen, 54°. — 8. The Klos- 
terquelle, in the garden of the Convent of the 
Holy Sepulchre, 51°.— 9. and 10. The Muhr, or 
Moorquellen, near the Convent. The first. 49° 
5' ; the second, 50° 6'. — 11. The Ungomach at 
the former inn of this name, 52° 50'. — 12. The 
Ursprung, 54°. This was the principal spring 
known to the Romans. It proceeds from a cleft 
in the rock, the mouth of which is covered with 
Carrara marble ; and furnishes 7,349,440 cubic 
inches every twenty-four hours. — 13. There are 
two other springs in a corridor below the Poor's 
Bath, which has been demolished. 

Baden formerly possessed many baths, which 
have been destroyed, or are no longer used. The 
present bath hotels are, 1. The Court of Baden, 
formerly a Capuchin's convent. — 2. The Bal- 
dreith.— 3. The Dragon.— 4. The Stag.— 5. The 
Red-lion.— 6. The Salmon.— 7. The Sun. To 
these have been added within a few years : 

1. The vapour baths, on the site of the old 
Poor's Bath, finished in 1818, and fltted-up very 
commodiously. — 2. The horse-bath, near Beuern 
gate. — 3. Bahrdt river-bath on the Oelbach. — 
4. New Bath at Lichtenthal, which will suit 
those persons who like retirement. 



DESCRIPTION OF BADEN. 



77 



Twenty years ago Baden did not possess a 
single private house of any importance, but it 
may now boast of numerous buildings of this de- 
scription, combining elegance with convenience. 

Living at Baden is generally cheap, and few 
places are better adapted for the residence of 
the gourmand. The neighbourhood abounds with 
game, fish, fruit, and vegetables. Lodgings 
may be procured from three to seven florins and 
upwards per week, according to their situation, 
accommodation, and the season; Those nearest 
the baths are in most request, and are dearest in 
July and August. In May and June the prices 
are less, and still less at other times of the year. 

In the principal bath-hotels, such as the Court 
of Baden, the Stag, the Salmon, and the Sun, 
the table d'hotes, as well as the wines, baths, 
coffee, &c. are charged the same prices. The 
table d'hote is about a florin, or Is. 8d. Less is 
paid for the table d'hotes at the Baldreith and 
the Dragon. The price of the table d'hote at 
an inferior house, the Rose, is only twenty-four 
kreuzers, about eight-pence English, exclusive 
of wine. There is a restaurateur at the Assem- 
bly House. 

There are no valets de place, properly so called, 
at Baden, but private servants may be hired. The 
servants at the inns will go on errands. 

A person who wishes to be economical may 
live for three florins per day ; or double that sum 
will enable him to live in very good style, pro- 
vided that he does not play. 

h 3 



78 



ENVIRONS OF BADEN. 



The evening amusements at Baden are the thea- 
tre, — balls, which terminate at midnight, — and 
play, which is carried on to a great extent. 
There are few concerts, but musicians usually 
attend at the table d'hotes. 

The Environs of Baden are extremely beautiful, 
and present numerous objects worthy the travel- 
ler's observation. 

1. Through the Beuern Gate.— 1. The Pro- 
menadenhaus, as well as the garden attached to 
it. It is situated on the Oelbach, and comprises 
in addition to the residence of the proprietor, a 
billiard room, a ball room, and apartments for 
play. Balls are given here on Sundays and fete 
days, immediately after dinner. The garden is 
lighted up for evening balls. This building has 
been erected about half a century. Balls are 
given at this house twice a week, when refresh- 
ments of every kind may be procured. The 
theatre on the side of it is not large, but is well 
laid out. The English garden near this theatre 
has very pleasant walks, one of which leads to a 
detached hill of the Friesenberg, commanding a 
good view. In front of the Promenadenhaus 
there is a row of shops, which are occupied, 
during the bathing season, by persons who sell 
stuffs, prints, and haberdashery. 

2. The Oak Walks, one of which passes from 
the south-east across a charming valley, on the 
left of which is the pretty establishment of gruner 
Winkel ; and on the right, the village of G wizen- 



ENVIRONS OF BADEN. 



79 



bach. — 3. The Abbey of Lichtenthal, a quarter 
of a league from Gunzenbach. On the right is 
the Aumatt ; and to the left, on the banks of the 
Oelbach, the houses of Unterbeuern, and the 
hermitage of St. Wolfgang. The abbey is occu- 
pied by Cistercian nuns, who are extremely 
strict. They keep a school. It was founded by 
the Margrave family, several of whom are buried 
in its chapel. On Sunday the service is accom- 
panied by good music, which attracts many visi- 
tors from Baden, who afterwards dine at Selach, 
in the vicinity, or at the Stag. 

4. From Lichteuthal to Selach, through Ober- 
beuern. This is a hunting seat, from which there 
are fine views. Opposite to Selach are the two 
Stauffen ; at the foot of the little StaufFen is the 
road to Forbach, which is three leagues distant. 
This valley is very pretty, though little known. 
A league and a quarter from Lichtenthal is the 
castle of Eberstein, in the valley of the Murg. 
The hill of St. Cecilia, behind the Abbey of 
Lichtenthal, is watered by the Oelbach, and 
forms a pleasant walk. 

5. The valley of Beuern or Bur en, extending 
along each bank of the rivulet, half a league from 
the Abbey, 

6. The Gerold's-aue is a solitary valley, three- 
quarters of a league from Lichtenthal. The 
grand Butte or Cascade is three-quarters of a 
league further. The foot path to it crosses the 
Brandhald, but carriages and horses must go by 
Geroldsau, At a distance is seen the Krucken- 



80 ENVIRONS OF BADEN. 

fels. This cascade fails through an opening in 
the rock, and is 80 feet in height. The tourist 
may dine at Geroldsau. js 

7. The Quettich is a hill situated at the end ; 
of one of the Oak walks, which commands fine |r 
views. |l 

8. The Park or Menagerie, a quarter of a i 
league beyond Salzgraben, a valley near the OcA- ! 
senscheuer. 

9. The Green Angle, at the end of the first 
Oak walk. Return by the second Oak walk or 
by the Redig. 

10. The Friesen, a hill which commands fine 
prospects. It is situated to the North of Baden, 
to the left of the Oelbach, between the Prome- 
nadenhaus and the Court of Baden. 

11. The Fremersberg, a league from Baden, 
which is a convent of Franciscans, situated on 
the declivity of a mountain. The road to it 
passes through the forest. From this convent 
may be seen an immense extent of country 
towards the South, in the middle of which the 
city of Strasburg is distinctly visible. A very 
pleasant footpath descends from the Fremersberg 
to the village of Sinsheim, 1 \ league from Baden, 
where there is a good inn at the Green Tree. 

12. Umweg and Neuweiher, more to the South, 
are famous vineyards. 

13. The Yberg, a steep and lofty mountain two 
leagues from Baden. The road passes through 
the Bey tig, and the farms of aaf dem Seelig, 
thence to the left over a mountain, where it is 



ENVIRONS OF BADEN. 



81 



I difficult to proceed without a guide. The family 
| of Yberg has been a long time extinct ; but there 
are still to be seen the ruins of its castle, as well 
as a tower in good preservation, to the top of 
which there is a flight of steps. From this place 
there is the most extensive and varied prospect 
in the environs of Baden. The town itself, and 
1 the mountains of the Black Forest, form the 
I boundary of the horizon on the East and North- 
east, whilst on the South the eye perceives at a 
distance the mountains of Jura, and on the West 
and North-west, Mont Tonnerre, the mountain 
Melibocus, the towers of the mosque in the garden 
of Schwetzingen, and several other interesting 
objects. The best time to enjoy this delightful 
view, is very early in the morning,even before sun- 
rise. The village of Neuweiher, situated at the 
foot of the mountain, is hid at the bottom of some 
hills planted with vines, which produce excellent 
wine. This excursion cannot be made without 
fatigue, as it is only practicable on foot, on horse- 
back, or in a car drawn by oxen. 
II. Through the Gernsbach gate. 

14. The Poplar Walk, on the road to Gerns- 
bach, behind the cemetery. 

15. The Hasensprung, — the Steinwceldchen, are 
two hills situated 1 beyond the Poplar Walk. 

16. The Devil's Pulpit, whence there is a fine 
view. The Devil's Pulpit is only a short distance 
from Eberstein, and a path leads from it to the 
Upper Stauffen. 

17. The Hceslich — the Falkenhald. Proceed by 

I 



82 ENVIRONS OF BADEN. 

the Poplar walk to the two Stauffen, leaving the 
Old Castle on the left. Return by the Falkenhald, 
the Falkensteig, and St, Wolfgang. This delight- 
ful excursion is only about a league. 

18. Mount Mercury, also called the Great 
Stauffenberg, is the highest in this country, but f 
does not command a fine view. On this emi- * 
nence is an altar and a statue of Mercury. There <» 
are two routes to the summit, either by the Devil's 
Pulpit, or the Hoeslich. Nothing can be more 
rugged than the latter. 

19. The Redig, derives its name from the echo 
there. It is a hill situated to the south of the 
town ditch. The Grand Duchess has erected a 
villa here. 

III. Through the Castle gate. 20. The Tur- 
kenzceg is the name given to the path on the left 
of the Castle garden. It was made by the 
Turks, whom the Margrave Louis had taken 
prisoner. 

21. The old Castle (altes Schloss). These are 
some of the most beautiful ruins in Germany. 
Their appearance is extremely wild, and they 
are covered with brambles. The prospect on 
every side is very grand. This castle is situated 
about | of a league from Baden, and the road to 
it is passable for carriages. The time of its first 
construction is not certain, but it was probably 
in the 10th or 11th century. Behind the castle 
is a rock of considerable elevation, the appear- 
ance of which is very picturesque : it may be as- 
cended by several steps cut in the rock ; and the 
view from it is very extensive. 



ENVIRONS OF BADEN. 



83 



i 22. Ebersteinburg. A very pleasant road 
through the wood leads to the village of Eber- 
steinburg. The castle, which was formerly the 
residence of the Counts of Ebersteia, descendants 
of the house of Zahringen, is placed like an eagle's 
nest on the top of a rock. It can only be 
! reached with considerable trouble, and not with- 
! out some danger. But he who ascends, will be 
I amply recompensed by an inspection of the ruins, 
and the extraordinary prospect. 

23. To the Farm of Krippenhof, and the hill 
called the Silbergrub. On the way to them is an 
echo, which repeats on a still evening several 
syllables. 

24. The Pfalzenberg, an eminence noted for 
its wines, which are the best in the Grand Duchy, 

! but will not keep. 

IV. Through the Osse Gate. 25. The hamlet 
of Scheuern, and the Chapel of the Three Oaks, 
built in memory of the plague in the 1 6th cen- 
tury. 

26. The hamlet of Balg, picturesquely situated 
on a hill half a league from Scheurn, 

27. Nahscheurn and Oberscheuern, situated on 
the Osse, 

28. The Little Castle, a pretty villa which be- 
longed to the Jesuits. It is situated on an emi- 
nence in the valley of the Osse. 

29. The Hunting House (Jagdhaus) half a league 
from the Little Castle, and three quarters of a 
league from Baden, on a gentle rise at the en- 
trance of the valley. It has the form of a cross 
of St. Hubert : the environs are delightful ; and 

I 



84 



ENVIRONS OF BADEN. 



the different views of it from the Rhine,, both in 
the ascent and descent of that river, are beautiful. 
It is inhabited by a steward, who keeps an inn. 
Behind the house may be seen the summit of a 
mountain called K'alvel, from which there is a 
very extensive view, embracing the whole country 
between the Sundgau, and the mountain Feld- I 
berg, near Frankfort. 

30. Oss. a village at the entrance of the valley, 
one league from Baden, and Sinzheim half a 
league from Oss, where there is a good inn, the 
Green Tree. Return by the direct road to Baden. : 

81. The Favorite, a villa and park 1J league 
from Baden, and 1 league from Rastadt, near the < 
entrance of the valley of the Murg. This fairy 
palace was built in 1725 by the Margravine Sy- 
billa Augusta. The apartments are furnished 
with great taste. 

_ 

The Post Office at Baden is near the Sun 
Hotel. The post leaves for Rastadt every evening 
from May to October, at 6 o'clock. It takes let- 
ters and parcels, and carries two passengers. The 
fare is 24 kreutzers, about 8d. The office is open 
from 8 till 12, and from 3 to 5, The post returns 
at 8 o'clock in the morning. Carriages may be 
hired at the Poste aux Chevaux, at the Beuern j 
gate. The three nearest post stations, to Baden, 
are Buhl on the Offenburg and Bale road ; Stall- , 
hofen on the Strasburg road ; and Rastadt on the 
Carlsruhe and Mannheim road. 



VALLEY OF THE MURG. 



81 



The season commences in May, and terminates 
in October. It is at its height from the end of 
June till the 20th of August. The Promenaden- 
haus is the grand place of rendezvous in the 
morning from 11 to 1, and in the evening. 

THE MURGTHAL. 

(VALLEY OF THE MURG.) 

Setting out from Baden, the traveller may 
take either the road of Lich ten thai/ or the great 
road, which is very pleasant, and well kept, 
whilst the first road across the mountains re- 
quires a guide. 

The distance from Lichtenthal to Gernsbach 
is two leagues ; and between these two places 
may be seen a rock, of curious appearance^ 
which bears the name of Teufclskanzel (Devil's 
Pulpit). The road, which is pleasant, passes 
through the forest to the height near Gernsbach, 
whence there is a view of part of the Murgthal. 

The small town of Gernsbach is situated at 
the foot of this height, on the banks of the river, 
surrounded by a delightful country, It has a 
society of boatmen, who carry on a large trade 
in wood. 

The best inn is the Goat, (Zum Bock). There 
is another outside the town, with baths. 

The road, on quitting Gernsbach, imme- 
diately follows the left bank of the Murg. A 
quarter of a league distant is the Chapel Klivgel, 
which bears a great resemblance to that of Tell., 
i 



8G THE MURGTHAL, OR, 

near Lake Lucerne. Behind this chapel is a j 
steep mountain, covered with a wood of fir-trees, b 
where the chateau of Neu-Eberstein is situated. I 
There are two ways across the wood to the cha- g 
teau ; a footpath, with seats ; and a road for car- \ 
riages. The environs of this chateau form the j 
most beautiful part of the Murgthal ; and it is im- / 
possible to find, in all Germany, a country-house ! 
whose charms equal those of Neueberstein. The I 
Margrave Frederick caused the present chateau f 
to be rebuilt, according to a plan by Weinbrenner, 
on the ruins of the ancient one, which had been j 
neglected for several centuries. A beautiful gar- 
den, which surrounds it, produces a fine contrast } 
to the wildness of the country. The view from 
the top of the Gothic tower of this chateau is 
magnificent: on the west is the beautiful valley 
of the Rhine ; and on the north and east the high 
mountains of the Black Forest, which rise one \ 
above another, producing a wonderful effect : vil- 
lages, half hid by intervening woods, attract the 
eye of the spectator, at whose feet runs a torrent, 
which is often covered with floating timber. The 
keeper of the chateau is very well informed re- 
specting the country, and can furnish the traveller 
with good and cheap accommodation. Behind 
this chateau is a mine of metal, that has been 
abandoned for a long time, but the entrance to i 
which is picturesque. Strangers who visit the 
chateau, generally write their names in a book ; 
kept there for the purpose. 

A footpath descends from Eberstein to the vil- 



VALLEY OF THE MURG. 



87 



lage of Oberzroth, which is situated on the banks 
| of the river three-quarters of a league from Gems- 
j bach. The great road, which is entirely con- 
structed by art, passes over numerous masses of 
! rock. A quarter of a league distant is a bridge 
1 1 over which the traveller passes the Murg, in order 
! to reach the village of Hilpertsau. A shady foot- 
I path along the left bank leads from this place to 
i Forbach ; the great road passes along the right 
bank. 

Half a league from Hilpertsau is the village of 
Weissenbach, the environs of which are picturesque. 
The chapel in the churchyard on the left bank, is 
surrounded by vines and other fruit-trees. 

Behind Weissenbach, on the left bank, is the 
small village of Aue, whence the road gradually 
ascends, and the country becomes more and more 
wild and dreary. The traveller in half an hour 
.reaches the village of Langenbra?id, the houses of 
which are built against the mountain ; and half a 
league farther arrives at the village of Gausbach. 
The traveller then hears at his feet the noise of a 
torrent, which rushes into a deep precipice, and 
escapes the view, losing itself amidst rocks of 
granite. 

Forbach is only a quarter of a league from 
Gausbach. It is situated on the left bank, and 
communicates with the right by a bridge. It has 
about 800 inhabitants, many of whom are em- 
ployed in making fire-arms. In front of the village 
is a reservoir of water, and an establishment where 
willow twigs are twisted, which are used in mak- 



I 



88 



THE MURGTHAL, OR, 



ing rafts. There are several good inns, the best 
of which is the Crown. 

Those who intend to confine their journey to 
the village of Forbach, will not regret the road 
by which they must go from thence to the mea- 
dow of Herrenwiese, whence they may return to 
Baden, through the valley of Buhl (Biihlerthal). 

Herrenwiese is situated two leagues from For- 
bach, in a valley, the inhabitants of which know 
only two seasons, summer and winter. Those 
who are fond of botany may gather many scarce 
plants, which grow on the tops of the mountains. 
Travellers will find at the forest-keeper's house a 
good table and excellent lodging. Three-quarters 
of a league distant, on the western declivity of 
the mountain Herrenvviesenberg, is the lake Non- 
nensee or Mummtlsee, shaded by a thick wood. 
It is strewed with lilies, and its banks are co- 
vered with turf and flowers. 

The shortest road from the meadow of Herren- 
wiese to Baden, passes across the wood through 
the valley of Beurener, or rather Burenthal, by 
the side of the Convent of Lichtenthal. It is 
three leagues in length, and it is the same dis- 
tance to the market-town of Buhl. The valley of 
Buhlerthal commences a league from the meadow 
of Herrenwiese, near the rock Blattich, and ex- 
tends as far as Altschweier, or Altweiler, which is 
a league and a half distant, and contains 2200 
inhabitants. This valley produces a large quan- 
tity of wine and fruit, and abounds with wild and 
imposing scenery. It changes its name, at a 



VALLEY OF THE MURG. 89 

place where the foundry is situated, for that of 
Altschweier. 

The last houses on the road almost touch the 
market-town of Buhl, which is one of the most 
pleasant in the grand-duchy. The market, held 
I every week, is well attended. This place formerly 
j belonged to the lords of Windeck. A quarter of a 
j league from Buhl is Kappel- under- Windeck, from 
j the church of which there is a fine view. Nearly 
a league further is the Castle of Windeck, the 
chief seat of a very ancient family. Hence a 
footpath leads to the valley of Neusatz, abound- 
ing with the wild cherries, from which the cele- 
brated Kirschwasser is made. In the vicinity is 
the Houb, or Hoba, one of the prettiest valleys of 
the Black Forest. There is a mineral spring 
here. The Houb is only a quarter of a league 
from the high road between Frankfort and Bale. 
On the south-east of Buhl are the remains of the 
famous lines of Stollhofen, which served as a line 
of defence against the French during the reign of 
Louis XIV. 

A league from Buhl is Steinbach. Many per- 
sons pretend that this small town was the natal 
place of Erwin of Steinbach, who built the ca- 
thedral of Strasburg. The country produces a 
large quantity of wine, and in the environs are 
the coal mines of Unweg. The great road from 
Steinbach to Baden passes near Sinzheim ; an- 
other road, which is only two leagues, and conse- 
quently shorter than the first, but only passable 
for horse and foot passengers, is much more plea- 
i S 



90 



THE MURGTHAL, OR., 



sant, and passes over the mountain through the 
village of Gallenbach, and by the side of the 
convent of Fremersberg. Above Gallenbach is 
a mountain of conical form, on which are the 
ruins of the chateau of Yberg. 

We return, however, to the Murgthal. The 
valley becomes more wild and dreary beyond 
Forbach. Two leagues and a half from this vil- 
lage, the torrent of Raumilnzach, after falling 
over a succession of rocks, precipitates itself into 
the Murg. As the traveller advances, he will 
perceive that the mountains on each side are more 
lofty. About a league from this place, towards 
the mountains, is a reservoir made to retain the 
waters of the torrent of Raumunzach. The mass 
of water stopped here contains 1,500,000 cubic 
feet ; and, by means of this work, enormous 
masses of wood (which come from the interior of 
the mountains, where there is not even a foot- 
path) are conveyed on this small river as far as 
the Murg. The appearance of such an immense 
body of water, when let out, is astonishing and 
even terrifying. 

About a league distant is the glasshouse of 
Schwarzenberg. Several rivulets, falling from 
the top of the rocks, precipitate themselves into 
the Murg : one of them, the Frohndbrunnen, 
marks the frontiers between the country of Baden 
and that of Wurtemberg. On one side of the 
glasshouse is a reservoir of water ; and there are 
several others on the Murg, which serve to keep 
the water above the rocks in the bed of the river. 



VALLEY OF THE MURG. 



91 



The building and furnaces are the only parts 
remaining of the glasshouse of Schwarzenberg. 
Behind this building the torrent of Schonmunzach 
falls with a great noise into the Murg. The right 
bank of it is very steep ; and during the revolu- 
l tionary war the Austrians established a bridge 
there, which was defended by several fortified 
[J works. The traveller then quits the Murg, passes 
over a height, and in half an hour reaches the 
hamlet of Schwarzenberg, which is situated on the 
right bank, and consists of a few isolated farms. 
The houses begin to have the appearance of those 
of the Black Forest ; and the simplicity and good 
nature of their occupants resemble that of the 
inhabitants of the high mountains. 

The traveller now crosses a part of the Murg- 
thal, which is more wild and dreary than any he 
has seen. Enormous masses of granite rock 
heaped up in various directions render the road 
extremely difficult. In the vicinity are the ruins 
of Ko?iigswart } an old hunting seat, built in 1209, 
by Count Raoul de Tubingen. 

Huzzenbach is a quarter of a league from 
Schwarzenberg. The mountains gradually rise, 
vegetation diminishes, and nothing is seen around 
but frightful precipices and barren rocks, sur- 
mounted by firs. 

In the environs of Huzzenbach, which are more 
pleasant, there are about twenty isolated farms 
situated on fertile hills. There is likewise an 
establishment, where a kind of rope is made by 
twisting young beech twigs. The traveller reaches 



92 



THE MURGTHAL, OR 



the left bank of the Murg by a bridge. The val- 
ley becomes narrower at Sehongr linden, where 
may be seen several farms and other habitations 
surrounded by meadows. 

Half a league distant, on the left bank of the 
Murg, is the village of Roth, which the traveller 
reaches by a bridge. The road passes along the 
steep slope of a mountain of granite. The village 
of Roth is composed of seventeen farms. The in- 
habitants trade in pitch and resin. The moun- 
tain of Roth is much larger than any in its envi- 
rons, and in fine weather commands an extensive 
prospect. 

On quitting this place the traveller crosses se- 
veral meadows, and in a quarter of an hour reaches 
the village of Hesselbach, consisting of seven 
farms, each composed of a certain number of 
acres of wood, arable land, and meadows. 

A quarter of a league from Hesselbach is the 
ancient convent of Reichenbach. It was built in 
1083, by the Abbe William of Hirschau ; the 
Knight Benno of Siegburg and Haigerloch be- 
queathed all his wealth to it. At its commence- 
ment, there were but three monks and five lay- 
brethren, who had been sent from Hirschau, and 
who have by degrees cultivated the surrounding 
land. The Duke of Wurtemberg took possession 
of it at the time of the Reformation. It is now a 
considerable place, where the traveller may find 
a good inn. 

Three-quarters of a league distant is the village 
of Bakrsbronn, where the rivers Weissmurg and 



VALLEY OF THE MURG. 93 

Rothmurg fall into the Forbach, which then 
takes the name of Murg. A wooden bridge 
forms the communication between the two banks. 

About a league, and a quarter from Baiersbronn 
is Freudenstadt. This small town is situated on 
a height, formed by rocks, at the foot of the 
mountain of Kniebis. Its erection was com- 
menced in 1599 : it was first inhabited by miners, 
but it soon became the rendezvous for a great 
number of Protestant refugees, and in ten years 
contained 2,000 inhabitants. The church is wor- 
thy of observation. 

The valley of Christophstal, very near Freuden- 
stadt, deserves attention, on account of the mines 
it contains. This valley is situated between 
Freudenstadt and the Kniebis, and is watered by 
the Forbach. On the surrounding mountains are 
three lakes ; Lake Elpensee, (White Lake, or Lake 
of Swans,) the Wild Lake, and the Mummelsee : 
the latter must not be confounded with the Mum- 
melsee or Nonnensee in the Herrenwiese. 

That part of the valley of the Murg which be- 
longs to Baden contains about 14,000 inhabitants. 
There are also 9000 horses, oxen, sheep, goats, 
and pigs. Throughout the course of the Murg, 
a distance of fourteen leagues, there are eighty- 
one wheels for turning mills, and factories of va- 
rious kinds. 

An excursion is frequently made from Baden 
to Wildbad, although it is seven leagues distant, 
and the road is bad. This is a retired bathing 
place on the banks of the Enz. 



94 

I 

1 1 

THE BLACK FOREST. 

p At 

The mountains which bear the name of the •) - 
Black Forest, extend from the northern frontiers jl 
of Switzerland as far as the Enz, near Pforzheim, c 
whence the chain proceeds to the north under s 
another denomination. It rises gradually in the ! 
form of an amphitheatre, from the Rhine to the I: 
Necker. The three principal mountains, and to p 
which the others appear tributary, are the Feld- 
berg, to the south of the Hcellenpass ; the Roh- \: 
ratJuberg, between the Heelle and the Kinzig; \\ 
and the Kniebis, to the north of the Kinzig. The ii 
mountains are covered with firs, from the dark jl 
and gloomy appearance of which the country has 
received the name of the Black Forest. It f 
abounds with minerals and mines of iron, copper, 
lead, cobalt, and silver. There are few villages - 7 
and the isolated houses are generally built of 
wood, and thatched with straw or shingle. The ! 
inhabitants are engaged in the manufacture of 
clocks, spoons, boxes, cooperage, straw hats, and 
some of these articles are exported even to Ame- 
rica. 

The mountains are interspersed with numerous p 
valleys ; some of which are fertile and cultivated 
and others wild and romantic. The traveller can 
pursue no direct road ; but if he wish to view the j 
scenery to advantage, he must turn to the right a 
or to the left, to the east or to the west, accord- 
ing to circumstances. We shall notice the prin- 
cipal places worth visiting. \< 



j 



THE BLACK FOREST. 



95 



1 . Herrnalb — Frauenalb. The first of these 
! abbeys is four leagues from Baden, and two from 
Gernsbach, in the valley of the little river Alb. 
It was founded by the Counts of Eberstein, some 
of whose tombs are still visible. Frauenalb, for- 
1 merly a nunnery, is half a league distant. 
|! 2. The Kniebis and Abbey of Allerheiligen . If 
! the tourist, on leaving the valley of the Murg, 
I wish to visit at least a portion of the Black Forest, 
\ the Renchthal, the Schappach, &c, he must go 
to the Kniebis, through Freudenstadt. The site 
of the convent is occupied by a barrier, and half 
a league further are some scattered houses. The 
Kniebis is not only remarkable for its military 
position, but for the fine view which it commands 
of all the three chains of mountains. 

From Fort Alexander, which occupies the sum- 
mit of the Kniebis, the tourist may go on the left 
to Griesbach, Petersthal, &c. ; or on the right to 
Oppenau, from which the Abbey of Allerheiligen is 
two leagues distant. This abbev was founded in 
1196. Only the ruins are now visible. A gym- 
nasium was established here in the 1 8th century. 
It is remarkable that the Gipsies have for ages 
maintained a colony in the vicinity of this abbey. 

S. Waters of Petersthal, Griesbach, Antogast, 
and Rippoltsau. Petersthal is two leagues from 
Oppenau, and is approached by a good road. It 
is a small village, situated at the foot of the 
Kniebis, at the confluence of the Freyersbach 
and the Rencb, on the borders of which is the 
spring. This bathing place is much frequented 



96 



THE BLACK FOREST* 



in the summer months, particularly by the inha- 
bitants of Strasburg and its vicinity. 

Griesbach is three-quarters of a league from 
Petersthal. The waters resemble those of Pyr- 
mont and Schwalbach. The bath house has been 
rebuilt in a commodious style. 

At 1289 feet above Griesbach, and 2400 feet 
above the level of the Rhine, the tourist may 
descend to the Wolfsthal^ and in three-quarters of 
a league arrive at Rippoltsau. 

The Griesbach, a rivulet which falls into the 
Rench, forms a pleasant promenade towards the 
east. Proceeding to the right of the waterfall 
which it makes in its course amidst the rocks, we 
arrive, in a league, at Fort Alexander, on the top 
of the Kniebis. 

Antogast is a league from Griesbach, at the 
foot of the Kniebis. It is of greater antiquity 
than Petersthal and Griesbach. 

Rippoltsau is situated in the valley of the Step- 
pach, which meanders for four leagues amidst the 
mountains. An abbey was established here as 
far back as the 12th century, but it was deprived 
of many of its possessions at the Reformation, 
and has been since suppressed. The spring is a 
quarter of a league above the abbey. It is em- 
ployed for drinking and bathing. The bath-house 
is commodious, and there is a good inn. 

4. If the tourist wish to extend his journey, he 
may go from Rippoltsau to Schiltach. a small town 
with 1300 inhabitants, situated on the Kinzig, 
and the Schiltach ; and thence to the convent of 



THE BLACK FOREST, 



97 



| Alpirspach, which was founded in 1095, and sup- 
I pressed at the Reformation. 

5. The valley of Kinzig is one of the largest 

' and most varied in the Black Forest ; or rather a 
j combination of numerous small valleys, each 
I bearing a distinct name. From Schiltach the 
I tourist proceeds to Volpach, a small town with 
! 1,300 inhabitants, situate on the Wolfach and 
the Kinzig. It is the chief place of a district, and 
the centre of the mines of St. Wenzel, Frederick 
Christian, and eight others, almost all of which 
are situated near Hausach. The valley of Wolfach, 
though surrounded by steep hills, is fertile. The 
town has good fairs, and trades in wood. 

Between Wolfach and Schappach are the re- 
mains of the castle of Falkenstein, where Conrad 
11. Duke of Germany, took refuge with his friend 
Werner of Kyburg, in 1030. 

6. The Mines will interest the traveller and the 
naturalist. There are in all twelve, which are 
more or less worked. The principal five are St. 
Bernard, at Hauserbach, producing silver and 
lead ; the Gutegottes, near Wittichem, cobalt ; 
the Sophia, silver and cobalt ; the Frederick 
Christian, at Schappach, silver, lead, and copper; 
and St. Wenzel, at Wolfach, silver. The mines 
are situated near the two small towns, Hadach 
and Hausach, both of which are on the Kinzig. 

7. The road to Tryberg follows one of the 
prettiest valleys of the Black Forest for about 
two leagues, passing along the rivulet of Gutach, 
to the village of the same name, and thence to 

K 



98 



THE BLACK FOREST. 



I 



the town of Hornberg, a post station and toll- 
house of Baden. The castle is on a rock, over- 
looking the town. 

From Hornberg the tourist proceeds to Try- 
berg, a small insignificant town, surrounded by 
beautiful scenery. It has considerable trade, and 
has, since the 1 7th century, been a noted place 
of pilgrimage. 

Schcenewald is a town subject to Tryberg. In 
this country the Danube has its source, and here 
also several smaller streams rise. This district is 
the most manufacturing in the Black Forest. 
The women are employed in straw work, and the r ; 
men in making clocks and tin spoons. The first 
clocks were made here. 

Not far from Tryberg and Schcenewald is the i 
town of St. George, formerly occupied by Bene- 
dictines, to whom the Black Forest is indebted 
for its civilization. 

8. Villigen is a town of the Grand- Duchy of 
Baden, with nearly 2500 inhabitants. It is plea- 
santly situated on the Brigach. The principal 
building is the church, formerly the cathedral. 

9. From Villigen to Friburg. The traveller 
who does not intend to follow the Black Forest 
as far as the forest towns, or to Schafhausen, will 
take the road from Villigen to Friburg, a dis- 
tance of ten leagues. The chief places on the 
road are St. Moergen, or Mariazell, and the Abbey 
of St. Peter. 

10. Continuation of the route through the Black 
Forest. From Villigen the road proceeds through 



THE BLACK FOREST. 99 

Bertoldshar, to the post station of Donaucschingen, 
passing the village of Marbach, Kirchdorf, KUn- 
gen, and Wolierdingen, the oldest place in the 
Black Forest. Donaueschingen has about 1800 
inhabitants. In the court of the castle is the 
smallest of the three sources of the Danube, 
which at a short distance receives the Breg and 
the Brigach. The Breg rises between Tryberg 
and Hornberg. This town has a library, a gym- 
nasium, a theatre, and promenades. 

The road then proceeds to Schafhausen, through 
Ufingen, a small town on the left of the Brezach, 
with a castle. 

We shall terminate this excursion with a few 
general observations. 

The Black Forest (Markwald, sylva martiana) 
is one of the largest chains of mountains in Ger- 
many. It extends over a space of fifty leagues, 
within the boundaries already mentioned. The 
highest part is the Todtnau, near St. Maergen, or 
Mariazell. The Feldberg is 4610 feet above the 
level of the sea ; the Belchen, 4*355 ; and the Kan- 
del, 3903. These eminences are almost always 
covered with snow. On many of the hills are 
extensive plains, from which rivers and torrents 
descend to the Rhine. 

The base of the mountains is of granite, and 
the upper part of sandstone. The ground near 
them is alluvial, and abounds with shells. Gneis 
is common at the foot of the hills, particularly 
towards the east, and mixes with the sand. 
The principal metals found are iron and silver. 



100 



THE BLACK FOREST. 



This country holds a distinguished rank in 
Teutonic history. It was the cradle of the for- 1 
midable league which annihilated the power of I 
the Romans. The first apostles of the faith I 
built cells beneath the oaks and firs of these 
forests. St. Fridolin was at Secking-en. St. OrTo 
at Schuttern, St. Landolm at Ettenheimmunster, 
&c. The powerful dukes who obtained posses- j 
sion of this country, fought with success against 
the despotism of the Carlovingians ; and the Black 
Forest still preserves, more than any other part of 
Germany, the Teutonic language and manners. 

Over these mountains is spread a population of 
16,000 souls, who subsist by their manufactures 
and the rearing of cattle. There are few towns 
and villages, but innumerable farms and isolated 
huts, built entirely of wood. The inside of these 
huts is wainscoted and painted black, as well as 
the ceiling, which produces a gloomy impression. 
To many of these houses are attached small 
chapels, and many of the peasants have corn 
and saw- mi lis. 



101 



II. FROM RASTADT TO MANNHEIM. 

The voyage from Rastadt to Mannheim may 
be performed in one of the rafts which descend 
with the Murg into the Rhine. 

There are two roads to Carlsruhe. The first 
passes through the villages of Bietigheim and 
Durmersheim. Part of it is along the old mound 
of the Rhine, the base of which, now cultivated 
and wooded, was formerly the bed of the river. 
Bickesheim, at the end of the village of Durmer- 
sheim, was formerly a place of pilgrimage. 

The second route, which is the post road, passes 
through Ettlingen four leagues from Rastadt. 
This town is situated at the opening of the valley 
of the Alb. It contains 2800 inhabitants. The 
Romans had a settlement at this place on the 
little river Alb, whence the country derived the 
name of Albgau, by which it was formerly known. 
Two ancient monuments are still to be seen here ; 
a stone dedicated to Neptune in the wall of the 
bridge, and the remains of a Roman bath disco- 
vered between Ettlingen and Wolfartsweier in 
1802. In the mountains above the Alb are traces 
of a Roman way. Ettlingen is the natal place of 
Francis Irenicus, (Friediieb,) and of Gaspard 
Heclio. There are two paper mills on the Alb. 
Ettlingen has an Agricultural Society. 

k 3 



102 



II. FROM RASTADT 



CARLSRUHE 

Is two leagues from Ettlingen. It is now the 
capital of the Grand Duchy of Baden. Carls- 
rune is situated one league and a half from the • 
Rhine, in the Forest of Hartwald, which covers 
part of the town on the north and west. In 1715 
was laid the first foundation of a hunting seat ; | 
around which the present town has gradually j 
risen: it now contains S3 streets, 1165 houses, 
and 17000 inhabitants. 

The principal objects worthy of notice are, — - i 
1 . The Castle ; from the tower of which, called s 
Bleythurm, there is an extensive view. In this h 
castle is the library of the court, a cabinet of na- \ 
tural history, and a few fine pictures. — 2. The li 
New Church of the Catholics, built by Wein- 
brenner in the antique style. — 3. The Lutheran \ 
Church. —4. A Gallery of Pictures ; which con- I 
tains, besides paintings, a collection of engrav- 
ings, drawings, statues, and casts, the whole of \ 
which is under the direction of M. Becker. — 5. I 
The Museum, where balls and concerts are given 
daring the winter. Strangers can obtain admit- 
tance by an introduction from one of the members. 
Since 1821, the members of the Museum have 
formed a Society of Arts, under the patronage of 
the Margrave Leopold. — 6. The Architectural 
School, under the direction of M. Weinbrenner, 
an architect of distinguished talent. — 7. The Ve- 
terinary School, directed by Dr. TeufTel, equally 
celebrated as a physician and an author. — 8. The 



TO MANNHEIM. 



103 



Lyceum. — 9. The Botanic Garden, containing 
six thousand kinds of plants, under the direction 
of the counsellor of the court, Gmelin. — 10. The 
Garden of the Court and the Pheasant Walk. 
— 11. The Garden of the Dowager Margravine, 
which is laid out in the English style, and has a 
Gothic chapel, containing several pictures, and 
the monument that the Margravine erected to the 
memory of her husband, who died near Arboga 
in Sweden. From the tower of this chapel there 
is a fine view. — 12. The House of the Margraves 
of Hochberg, with a very tasteful Garden. In 
this house is a hall, decorated with landscapes, 
painted by Kunz. — 18. The Philosophical Cabi- 
net, in the Lyceum, which is under the superin- 
tendence of M. Woucherer. — 14. The Theatre, 
constructed by Weinbrenner, in the style of the 
ancient Roman theatres. The usual days of re- 
presentation are Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. 
15. The Establishment for polishing and cutting 
agates, marble,, crystals, and jewels. — 16. The 
Forest's School.— 17. The Hospital— 18. The 
Jewish Synagogue. — 19. The garden and Sum- 
mer residence of the Margravine Frederic. — 20. 
The New Town House built by Weinbrenner. 
21. The Engiueer's Office. — 22. The New Cadet's 
Hotel, at the Linkenheim Gate. There are se- 
veral other buildings which merit the traveller's 
attention ; such as the Arsenal, the Gate of Ett- 
lingen, &c. 

In the village of Beyer theim, rather more than 
a quarter of a league from Carlsruhe, on the side 



104 



II. FROM RASTADT 



of the mountains, there are some baths on the 
Alb, which have been established several years. 
At the inn, near this establishment, there is a 
table d'hote every Sunday, and a ball every Wed- 
nesday, during the season. 

Carlsruhe has four libraries, four printing offi- 
ces for letter-press, and three for lithography, be- 
sides a copper-plate printing office. 

Inns. The Bear ; The Court of Darmstadt ; the 
Hereditary Prince, (where post horses may be 
hired) ; the Roman Emperor ; the Golden Cross, 
(where the diligence puts up ;) and the Court of 
Zahringen. 

1. FROM CARLSRUHE TO HEIDELBERG. 

An avenue of poplars leads from Carlsruhe to 
Durlach, which is a league distant. The Abbey of 
Gottes-Aue, at one side of the road, was dissolved 
at the Reformation, and has been appropriated 
to the Artillery. 

Durlach was formerly the capital of Baden 
Durlach, and for a long time the residence of the 
Margraves of that line. The Castle is old and 
inconsiderable, but the garden contains several 
Roman antiquities. Amongst them are five mi- 
litary stones erected during the reigns of the 
Emperors Caracalla, Heliogabalus, and Alex- 
ander Severus ; an altar of Hercules ; another 
altar the bas-reliefs of which are effaced ; a se- 
pulchral stone and several others the sculptures 
on which are destroyed. The Thurmberg near 
the town is generally supposed to have been a 



TO MANNHEIM. 



105 



I Roman watch-tower. The top commands a good 
I view. On this height also are the ruins of a 

castle which belonged in the 11th century to the 

Counts of Henneberg. 

Inns. The Carlsburg, the Flower. 

The distance from Durlach to Bruchsal is four 

leagues. The road passes through the village of 

Weingarten, at which are the ruins of an old 
j castle which formerly belonged to the Schmalen- 

stein family. At a short distance is the Stahlbuhl, 

on which justice was administered in the Middle 

Ages. 

Bruchsal, formerly the residence of the 
Prince Bishop of Spire, is a small town on the 
Sale, or Salza. The most remarkable objects are, 
1. The Castle, whence there is a fine view of the 
plain through which the Rhine flows. — 2. St. 
Peter's Church, with the tombs of the last bishops. 
— 3. The Hospital, which is employed for surgical 
instruction. — 4. The Wasserburg, or Reservoir 
— 5. The salt-works erected in 1748. 

Inns. The Court of Baden (the Post House) ; 
the Stag ; the Rose ; the Knight ; the Court of 
Z'ahringen. 

Langenbruck, two leagues from Bruchsal, has a 
bath which is much frequented. Inn, The Sun. 

In the low ground towards the Rhine, between 
this village and Mingolsheim,, is the villa of Kisslau, 
used as a state prison. 

Wiesloch, the next post station, is two leagues 
and a half distant. It has a mineral spring. To 
the east, near the village of Old Wiesloch, are 
traces of a Roman way. Inn, the Three Kings. 



106 



II. FROM RASTADT 



The three leagues from Wiesloch to Keidelberg 
begin to exhibit the beauties of the Bergstrasse. 
The road passes through Nussloch, Lehmen, and 
Rohrbach, a village with a pretty seat belonging 
to the Dowager Margravine. 

Heidelberg will be described hereafter, 

2. FROM CARLSRUHE TO MANNHEIM. 

Between Knielingen, one league from Carlsruhe, 
and Linkenheini) two leagues below, are establish- 
ments where gold is extracted from the sand 
thrown up on the banks of the river. The pro- 
cess is simple, but the labour hard, and the an- 
nual produce is inconsiderable. 

One league before the traveller reaches the post 
station of Graben, he passes the pretty village of 
Schrek, which carries on a considerable trade. 

Graben is a market town, with several inns. 
The old castle which formerly stood there, was 
destroyed by the French in 1689. 

The next post station is that of Waghausel, at 
which is a chateau, with a park. It formerly be- 
longed to the Bishop of Spire, but now forms part 
of the possessions of the Grand-Duke of Baden. 
It has a church, a convent of Capuchins, a post- 
house, and an inn. 

Before the traveller reaches Waghausel, he may 
perceive, on the left bank of the Rhine, the an- 
cient imperial city of Spire. The traveller will 
not regret a deviation from his route in order to 
visit this distinguished city. Near the village of 



TO MANNHEIM. 



107 



I Rheinhausen is a ferry, and at Germersheim a 
I bridge of boats. 

SPIRE 

I Is situated on the Speierbach, and contains 
about 6400 inhabitants. It is the chief place, 
and the seat of government of the circle of Rhe- 
j nish Bavaria. It is also the seat of a Protestant 
i consistory, a bishop, a chapter, a lyceum, and a 
gymnasium. It was formerly an imperial town, 
and is one of the most ancient on the Rhine. 
Tacitus mentions it in the third century, as one 
of the strongest and most important places on 
the banks of this river. It was often destroyed 
I by the Germans during the dominion of the Ro- 
I mans, and was rebuilt by Constantine and Julian, 
i The Romans had possession of it from the 57th 
year before the Christian era, till the fourth cen- 
tury, when it was exposed to the incursions of 
the Huns and Vandals, on whom the Franks im- 
posed laws. Dagobert founded the monastery 
of St. Germain, on the site of the temple of Mer- 
cury. The kings of this race, as well as the Car- 
lovingians, the Saxon and Franconian monarchs, 
had their palaces here. It was here that the first 
tournament was held, in the reign of Otho I. 
Conrad the Salic made it his residence, and to 
him is attributed the erection of the church of St. 
John, and of the cathedral, which he appointed 
the burial place of himself and his successors. His 
son, Henry III. continued the building, and after 



I 



108 



II. FROM RASTADT 



his death in 1056, Henry IV., his son, finished in 
1097, this noble specimen of architecture. The j qa 
vault beneath the choir contains the remains of j ji 
nine emperors, namely : Conrad II. ? Henry III., \\ 
IV., V., Conrad IIL, Philip of Suabia, Rodolph j 
of Habsburg, Adolphus of Nassau, and Albert 1 \\ 
of Austria. In 1688, the troops of Louis XIV. I « 
burnt a considerable portion of the cathedral, and j a < 
destroyed many of the tombs of the kings in their > g 
search for treasure. The last prince bishop re- , a 1 
paired the building, but it was again devastated jj 
during the Revolution. It has again been re- ! fl 
stored, and is now used for public worship. It 1 \ 
contains the monument erected by the Duke of \ \ 
Nassau in honour of his ancestor, Adolphus of I , 
Nassau ; and several pictures, among which are i 
the Ascension, St. John in the Desert, and a 
copy of the Madonna del Sisto, by M. Schlesin- 
ger. From the gallery, above the choir of the j 
church, there is a beautiful prospect, particularly 
on the side of the mountains near Heidelberg. \ 

Spire contains many antiquities. The most 
remarkable are the Alta Porta, an old and lofty | 
tower; the Heidenthurmchen, or pagan's tower; 
the Ritscher, where the diets of the empire were 
held ; and the Mint. Several antiquities were j 
found in 1821, when the foundations of the bar- 
racks and the college were being laid. Near the 
town, on the Speierbach, are remains of a Tem- 
plar's house, which was taken down in 1823. 

Inns. The Angel, the Post-house, the Eagle, 
the Court of Bavaria. 



I TO MANNHEIM. .* 10.9 

Half a league east of Spire is a much fre- 
quented garden, called the Freisckutz; where 
plays are sometimes performed in the open air. 
I There are seats for 1000 spectators. 

Three leagues from Waghausel is Schwetzingen. 
j The garden is the most remarkable object. It 
I occupies a space of one hundred and eighty-six 
j acres ; and although situated in the midst of a 
sandy plain, vegetation flourishes to a consider- 
able extent. It is particularly distinguished by 
fine groups of trees, The most attractive parts 
of the garden are the walks of linden trees, and 
the groups of trees in the English garden ; the 
beautiful prospect from the great basin, across 
an opening made in the wood near Katsch, 
whence the mountains of Vosges may be seen in 
the distance ; the temple of Apollo ; the temple of 
Minerva ; the bathing-house ; the environs of the 
temple of Mercury; the great fountain, where 
there are four vases of Carrara marble ; and the 
mosque, with its towers. The traveller should 
ascend one of these towers, though the staircase 
is narrow and dark, in order to enjoy the pro- 
spect which it commands. Besides the above, the 
following objects are remarkable: the landscape, 
painted in fresco, on a wall near the Birds' Basin ; 
the Botanical Garden, where there are more than 
twenty-four thousand kinds of trees and shrubs, 
most of them exotic, and some of which may be 
bought at the price mentioned in the printed cata- 
logue ; and the nursery of fruit trees. The southern 
part of the garden contains some Roman tombs. 

L 



110 



II. FROM RASTADT 



Inns. The Palatine Court, the Golden Ox, 
the Prince Charles, and the Post-house. 

MANNHEIM 

Is situated three leagues from Schwetzingen. In 
ancient times, a village of the same name stood 
where the present city does. The first founda- 
tions of the town were laid in 1606, by the Elector 
Frederick IV., who likewise built on the side of 
it the castle of Friedrichsburg : but both were 
burnt during the thirty years' war. 

Mannheim, however, soon rose from its ruins, 
but was again reduced to ashes by the French in 
1689. The city, in its present state, was then 
built, and its regular form ranks it amongst the 
most beautiful cities of Germany. It contains 
1630 houses, and 18,300 inhabitants, who are of 
various sects of religion. The Walloon or French 
reformed communion was united in 1821 to the 
reformed German communion. The fortifications 
have been turned into gardens and promenades 
since 1806. 

The most remarkable objects in Mannheim 
are, — 1. The Castle, the residence of the Dowager 
Grand Duchess. The left wing of this building, 
containing the opera, suffered much from the 
bombardment of the Austrians in 1795. In this 
castle, also, is a gallery of pictures, containing 
several excellent pieces, particularly of the Flem- 
ish school ; a collection of engravings, with a 
considerable number of plates, of the school of 



TO MANNHEIM. Ill 

Rubens ; a hall of antiquities, where there are 
some fine casts from the best ancient models ; a 
cabinet of natural history, and a considerable 
library. The court painter, Staasen, superintends 
every thing connected with the fine arts. — 2. The 
ancient convent of the Jesuits, with a church, 
near the castle. In the buildings of the convent 
is the lyceum. The library belonged to the late 
M. Desbillon, and contains a great number of old 
editions of classical authors, and other typogra- 
phical curiosities. — S. The Theatre, with a tavern 
and ball-room. The days of representation are, 
Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. — 4. The Ob- 
servatory, built in 1772, by Charles Theodore; 
but the arrangement and situation of which are 
by no means proper for astronomical observations. 
It has a collection of excellent instruments, and 
commands, on every side, fine prospects. — 5. The 
Arsenal. The foundry has been removed to 
Carlsrube. Amongst the public buildings may 
likewise be noticed, the Merchants' Hotel, the 
two Catholic churches, and the Reformed Church. 

The principal public places are, — the Parade, 
with a fountain by Cripello ; and the Market- 
place, with a group, by Brandt, emblematical of 
the situation of Mannheim between the Rhine 
and the Neckar. 

The chief collections of pictures belong to 
M. Richard, at the Castle, and to M. Abegg. 
Amongst the artists resident at Mannheim are, 
M. Pozzi, the sculptor ; Hekel, the painter ; and 
Ganie, the flower painter. Messrs. Artaria and 



112 II. FROM RASTABT TO MANNHEIM. 



Fontaine's establishment for the sale of prints, is 
one of the largest in Germany. 

The Harmony, at the Cafe d'Achenbach, is a 
society formed of the Museum and of the Casino. 
It has a library. Strangers who have been intro- 
duced by one of the members, may receive an en- 
trance ticket for a month. 

The promenades are, — 1. The Muhlau, which 
is a pleasure house, situated on an island, a quar- 
ter of a league from the town, in a grove. It has 
good accommodation, and a ball is given every 
Wednesday during the summer. — 2. The Garden, 
or New Plantations, between the Castle and the 
Rhine. — 3. The Road which passes over the bridge 
of the Neckar, and crosses the gardens in the en- 
virons. — 4. The Lindenhof, between the high road 
to Schwetzingen and the garden. 

Inns. The Palatine Court, the Golden Sheep, 
the Silver Anchor, the Three Kings, the King of 
Prussia, the Black Bear, and the Vineyard, 
(Weinberg.) 

From Mannheim there are diligences twice a 
day to Heidelberg. The fare is about Is. 3d. 
There are also diligences to Worms, Mayence, 
Carlsruhe, Frankfort, &c. ; and Coches d'Eau 
down the Rhine. 



113 



III. THE WESTERN SIDE OF THE RHINE. 

RHENISH BAVARIA, RHENISH HESSE, AND A 
PART OF RHENISH PRUSSIA. 

This is an excursion abounding with charming 
I scenery, and interesting memorials of former days. 

1. FROM MANNHEIM TO SPIRE. 
4 Leagues. 

A bridge of boats, constructed in 1815, crosses 
the river to the Rheinschanze, or Rhine Fort, 
the greater part of which was destroyed by the 
inundations a few years back. Thence the road 
passes through Mundenheim to Spire, which has 
been already noticed. 

2. FROM SPIRE TO GERMERSHEIM. 
3 J Leagues. 

Germersheim is a town containing about 1670 
inhabitants, occupying the site of a Roman fort . 
called the Vicus Julius. It was founded by Ro- 
dolph of Habsburg, in 1276, and here he died in 
1291. There are still seen vestiges of a castle 
built by the Elector Frederick II. The inhabi- 
tants are occupied in agriculture^ fishing, and 
the construction of boats. This town is on the 
high road of Alsace and Switzerland. 

Inns. The Elephant, and Post-house. 

3. FROM GERMERSHEIM TO LANDAU. 
4 Leagues. 

This is one of the most attractive routes on the 
borders of the Rhine. It passes successively 
l 3 



114 



LANDAU. 



through Bellheim, Knittelsheim, Ottershcim, Offen- 
bach, Merlenheim, Qudchheim, to Landau. 

Landau is a post station, twenty-four leagues 
from Strasburg, twenty from Mayence, ten from 
Mannheim. The territory belonging to Landau 
extends over 3700 acres, of which the town and 
fortifications occupy 634. It is situated between 
two hills, at a little distance from the mountains 
of the Vosges, and is watered by the river Queich. 
The foundation of Landau is attributed to Ro- 
dolph of Habsburg ; and mention is made of it as 
a town as far back as 1274. The fortifications 
were begun by Vanban, in 1680; at which time 
he constructed a canal from the Queich to Albers- 
weiler, two leagues above the town, for the pur- 
pose of conveying timber and other materials. 
The town was almost reduced to ashes in 1686 ; 
but was rebuilt on an improved plan. It con- 
tains 650 houses, and about 5600 inhabitants. 
It has good markets for corn and provisions. 

Amongst the public buildings are, — 1. The 
Great Church, from the tower of which there is 
a good view. — 2. The Church and former Con- 
vent of the Augustines. — 3. The Town-house. — 
4. The Court of Justice. — 5. The four Barracks, 
one of which is for cavalry ; and a civil and mili- 
tary hospital. There are also two vinegar manu- 
factories. 

Inns. The Golden Sheep, and the Plough. 
There are constant opportunities of travelling to 
Strasburg. About fourteen or sixteen francs is a 
fair price. 



LANDAU TO NEUSTADT. 



115 



The tourist should not omit to visit Bergzabern* 
and ascend the mountain, on the top of which 
are the ruins of the Castle of Eshbach, command- 
ing a fine view. 

EXCURSION TO ANNWEILER. 

The valley of Annweiler is two leagues from 
Landau. It is watered by the Queich, The 
little town has 220 inhabitants, including those 
of the village of Sarnstall. It was raised to the 
rank of a town in 1219. The old Castle of Tri- 
fels is, according to tradition, the place where 
Richard Cceur de Lion was for a long time con- 
fined, previous to being conveyed to Thierstein, 
on the Danube. In the vicinity are the remains 
of numerous other castles. 

4. FROM LANDAU TO NEUSTADT ON THE 
HAARDT.— 4 Leagues. 

Neustadt, the chief place of the canton and a 
post station, is five leagues from Spire, and six 
from Kaiserslautern. It is delightfully situated 
at the foot of Mount Haardt, and is watered by 
an arm of the Speyerbach, The town itself is 
ancient, and its streets narrow. 

The most remarkable objects are, — 1. The prin- 
cipal Church. Jt was built in the 10th century, 
and enlarged by the Emperor Robert, who made 
it a collegiate church. The steeples and the roof 
were finished during the government of Casimir. 
It had a clock that weighed ninety-nine cwt., 
which was taken away at the commencement of 



116 



NEUSTADT. 



! 



the revolutionary wars. In the vestibules (called 
Paradis) are some paintings in fresco, well wor- 
thy of observation. The church contains the 
tombs of Randolph II., who died October 4, 
1353 ; of Robert I., who died February 15, 1390; | 
and Robert III., who died atOppenheim, in 1490. 
— 2. The building called Casimirian ; it was for- 
merly a convent of nuns, called Weisse Klaufs 
(White cloisters), but was changed by Casimir into 
a school. The gymnasium, which still exists, is 
one of the best in the country. — 3. The manufac- 
tory of M. Schuster, where chemical compositions 
are prepared. 

The most beautiful spots in the environs of the 
town, which command fine views, are, — 1. The 
Schiefhaus, in the suburb called Egypt. — 2. The 
old Castle of Waldmannsburg. — 3. The quarries 
in the mountain of Wintersberg, where may be 
seen the tomb of the Prussian General Pfau, who 
was killed in 1794, after having bravely defended 
the redoubt of Schanzel, near Landau. — 4. The 
chateau of M. Schuster, with a garden, near 
Haardt, a village of picturesque appearance on a 
small height. It commands an extensive view 
of the adjacent country; and the prospect of the 
environs of Heidelberg from it is delightful. — 5. 
The Burgstein. — 6. The Castle of Hambach. — 
7. The Calmuc, which is the highest point of the 
mountains of Haardt, where the French erected 
a telegraph, to correspond with Mayence and 
Landau. 

In the environs of Neustadt are several old 



NEUSTADT TO DURKHEIM. 117 

castles, which have fallen into ruins : the most 
interesting are,— 1. The Castle of Wolfsberg, 
which was pillaged during the thirty years' war. 
A subterranean way across the valley, on this 
side the rivulet of Speyerbach, leads from this 
place to the mountain of Konigsberg, which is si- 
tuated opposite, and on which are the remains of 
some Roman buildings. 2. The Castle on the 
Haardt, the ancient summer residence of the Pa- 
latine Counts. In the chapel, which is fallen into 
ruins, there are some paintings in fresco. Frede- 
rick, surnamed the Victorious, was born in this 
castle. In 1696, the English gained possession 
of it and burnt it, after driving out the French. 
There is still a subterranean way from Neustadt 
to this castle, by the mountain of Ziegelberg. In 
the place called Auf der Boll, are the remains of 
an ancient Roman road, which passed through 
the forests of Hambach and Neustadt. 

Inns, The Lion, and the Post-house. 

There is an opportunity every week of proceed- 
ing to Strasburg, Mayence, &c. by the diligence, 
which passes through this place. Another co- 
vered carriage goes every week to Mannheim : 
the fare is a florin each person. 

5. FROM NEUSTADT TO DURKHEIM. — 3 Leagues. 

The country which the traveller is now about 
to traverse is, without exception, the finest part 
of the Palatinate. 

The first place the traveller reaches is Mus- 
hachy where he sees on his left the village of 



118 DURKHEIM. 

Haardt, which is situated behind a small moun-t^ jjf 
tain, and has a very picturesque appearance. AP jl 
succession of villages, situated at the foot of the 
mountains of Haardt, extend, with scarcely any f 
interruption, as far as Diirkheim. The principal 
are the following : 

Deideshcimt with the ruins of an ancient and • 
strong chateau. Inn ; The Swan. — Forst, which 
produces exquisite wine. — Wachenkeim, where 
are seen the ruins of an old chateau, and where 
the neighbouring hills also produce good wine. 
The situation of these places is charming. 

The town of Diirkheim, with its salt works in 
the plain, is the next place the traveller reaches. I 
This is a post station and contains about 3500 
inhabitants. It is situated at the entrance of a 
picturesque valley, near the brook of Tsenach, 
which falls into the canal of the Rhine, at a short 
distance from Frankenthal, and which once 
formed the limits between the districts of Worms 
and Spire. Diirkheim was formerly the residence 
of the Princes of Linange. The fine chateau 
which they inhabited was burnt in 1 794, by order 
of a revolutionary commissary. 

A road constructed by the present government, 
goes from Oggersheim to Kaiserslautern, and 
unites the Rhine road with the Imperial road. 
In the plains are some salt pans. 

Diirkheim is noted for its fair, on the first Sun- J 
day in September. 

Inns. The Post House, the Ox. Half a league 
from Diirkheim are the ruins of the Abbey of him- 



ABBEY OF LIMBURG, 119 

I 

. burg. They are situated on a height, the base 
j of which is surrounded by villages, This abbey 
; was founded in the 11th century by Conrad II. 
The Monks who inhabited it, sustained a very ob- 
stinate war against the Count of Linange, who had 
erected on their territory the chateau called Har- 
tenburg. This war, which lasted a long time, 
was terminated in 1504, by Count Emich the 
Eighth ; who, with a small detachment of sol- 
diers, reinforced by the peasants of Diirkheim, 
took the convent by surprise, and set fire to the 
beautiful church, in which w T ere twenty grand al- 
tars, as well as other buildings, after having pil- 
laged both that and the convent. The view from 
the mountain is extensive: on the eastern side 
are the beautiful plains watered by the Rhine; 
and on the western is a country abounding with 
wild and picturesque scenery. On a mountain, 
on the other side of Diirkheim, is to be seen a 
wall called Ringmauer, or Heidenmauer, (the Pa- 
gans' Wall.) It is an enclosure of about half a 
league in circumference, formed by stones, which 
are heaped one upon another. It has been as- 
serted that this was the place where Attila, King 
of the Huns, established his camp, when he 
crossed the country with his army ; but it is more 
probable that it was an ancient intrenched camp 
of the Romans, and that Attila only made use of 
it. It is supposed that the stone called Teufels- 
stein, which is seen there, was the place where 
these people offered sacrifices. 



120 



EXCURSION FROM DURKHEIM TO FRANKEN- 
STEIN AND DIEMERSTEIN. 

Passing by the village of Hartenburg and into 
the valley of Jcegertkal, the tourist arrives in a, 
league and a half at the Drache/ifels, (Dragon's 
Rock.) If the Druids ever existed during the 
residence of the Gauls in this country, it was un- 
doubtedly in this place that they took up their 
abode, and burnt their sacrifices, of which every i 
part of the country bears evident marks. The 
Drachenfels is a rock which projects from one 1 
of the highest mountains in the environs, forming 
a terrace, under which is an arch, similar to the 
arch of a bridge : from this terrace there is a fine 
view of part of the beautiful valley of the Rhine, 
forming a pleasing contrast with the mountains 
covered with wood, which are seen on the oppo- 
site side. 

A league further is the Forester's house, where 
refreshments may be obtained, and in another 
league the tourist reaches the town of Franken- 
stein, where the two valleys of Neustadt and 
Diirkheim uuite. A guide to visit the castle may 
be obtained at the Stag. This castle was built 
in the 1 1th or 12th century. There is an inn at 
the post-house. 

In the immediate vicinity is Diemerstein, with 
the ruins of its castle. The carriage must be sent 
from the Jeegerthal to Frankenstein, and the 
tourist must proceed on horseback. Return to 
Diirkheim, by the Steig. 



121 



6. FROM DURKHEIM TO GRUNSTADT, 2j Leagues, 

About half a league from Diirkheim is the vil- 
lage of Ungstein ; at some distance from which, 
on the side of the mountains, is another village 
called Karlstadt, or Kahlstadt, which is nearly 
concealed by a little wood of fruit trees. Both 
these places are famous for good wine. 

From Kahlstadt the tourist may ascend the 
Peterskopf, from which there is a fine view. 

About half a league further, the traveller 
reaches the village of Herxheim. There is an ex- 
tensive view from the old chapter garden. Half 
a league further is Kircheim sur Eck, and hence 
an avenue of half a league proceeds to Grunstadt. 
There is another road through the villages of 
Leystatt, Wei$senheim-es-Mont, Bobenhtim, and 
Sausenheim. 

Grunstadt is a small town of an agreeable as- 
pect, and is surrounded by a thick wood formed 
of fruit trees. It has a gymnasium. 

At the distance of half a league from Grun- 
stadt, in the village of Karlbach, is a cotton-mill, 
and a manufactory of nankeen. The wonderful 
mechanisnl exhibited in this place cannot be too 
much admired, particularly as M. Trautwein, who 
invented the machines, has succeeded in bring- 
ing them to their present state of perfection, 
without the assistance of models, and with but 
little previous knowledge of the mechanic art. — 
Grunstadt is the birth-place of the two celebrated 
painters, Holbein and Seckatz. Before the 
French Revolution, it was the residence of the 

M 



122 



GRUNSTADT TO GCELLHEIM. 



Counts of Linange-Westerburg. The chateau 
which they occupied has been since changed into 
a manufactory for china. In a valley called the 
valley of Linange, at a short distance from the 1 
town, is seen the ancient chateau of which this 1 
family were the original proprietors. It is situated 
on a mountain, at the foot of which is the village 
of Altleiningen, (Old Linange,) where there is a f 
fountain, the water of which, after flowing 1 
through nineteen tubes, forms a little rivulet. In f 
this valley, also, is the mountain known under 
the name of Matzenburg, where there are a few 
scattered huts, the inhabitants of which consist 
principally of itinerant musicians, who, generally 
speaking, exhibit considerable skill. 

Inns. The Swan, the Mountain, the Angel. 

I 

7. F ROM GRUNSTADT TO GCELLHEIM.— 3 Leagues. 

Gcellheim is the chief place of a canton, and 
contains 1150 inhabitants. Near it is the monu- ! 
ment erected to the memory of the Emperor 1 
Adolphus of Nassau, who died in battle in 1298. 
This monument, which the country people call 
the King's Cross, is overshadowed by a fine elm : 
it consists of a simple stone cross, bearing this 
inscription : 

Anno Milleno Trecentis 
Bis Minus Anno 
In Julio Mense. Rex Adol 
Phus Cadit Ense. 



Renovatum Hoc Monumen 
Turn sub Ludovico Comite 
Generosiss ; A Nassau 
Anno 1611. 



123 



8. FROM GCELLHEIM TO MONT TONNERRE. 
3 Leagues. 

The most favourable time for this excursion is 
towards the end of spring or beginning of sum- 
mer, and in the afternoon when the sun is de- 
clining. 

Mont Tonnerre is 2200 feet above the level 
of the Rhine. At the top is a spring which is 
never exhausted. The mineralogist will here find 
many interesting objects. The principal mass of 
the rock is porphyry. The florist will also be gra- 
tified. Amongst the plants are the Acer mons- 
pessulanum, the Mespilus Amelanchier, the Co- 
doneaster, &c. Silver, lead, and copper, have been 
found here, but the only mines now worked are 
those of iron. 

From Gcellheim it is three quarters of a league 
to Dreisen, at the fort of Mont Tonnerre, and 1 J 
league further to Dannenfels or Tannenfels, which 
is nearly half way up the mountain in a wood of 
chestnut trees. At the end of the village is an 
enormous chestnut tree 48 feet in circumference 
and 42 feet in height. The traveller must leave 
his carriage at the Forester's, in order that it may 
be sent on by the next morning to the King of 
Bavaria at Win7iweiler > where dinner must be or- 
dered for the next day. The traveller will then 
obtain a guide for the ascent. If he should hap- 
pen to be on the mountain either at sunrise or 
sunset, he should repair to the place called Hir- 
tenfels or Heidenfels, whence he will enjoy that 
fine spectacle to most advantage, as well as have 
a magnificent prospect of the environs of Worms 



124 



MONT TONNERRE. 



and of Spire, the Bergstrasse, the valley of the 
Rhine, &c. The Koningstuhl is one of the most 
elevated points of Mont Tonnerre, whence there 
is a view of a mountainous country entirely co- 
vered with wood. 

Having viewed the sunrise from the Heiden- 
fels, and breakfasted, the tourist will arrive at a 
gloomy valiey called the Mord hammer, or Cham- 
ber of Death, on account of a massacre of the 
peasants here ; and thence proceed to the little 
village of Marienthal, where there is a Gothic 
church, which deserves to be examined with some 
attention, as well as the tombs of the Counts of 
Falkenstein. There is also, in a retired place, a 
sarcophagus, on which are represented the seven 
children of a Count of Falkenstein, who all died 
between the years 1756 and 1763, before they had 
completed their first year. It bears this inscrip- 
tion : " Suffer little children to come unto me, 
and forbid them not, for of such is the kingdom 
of heaven." 

From Marienthal the traveller passes through 
the valley of Falkenstein, in order to return to 
Winnweiler. This valley is but little known ; 
but those who admire the beauties of nature, will 
derive considerable gratification from a view of 
it : some have even thought it superior to the 
much- admired valleys of the Rhine. In the mid- 
dle of the valley are some ruins of the ancient 
and strong chateau of Falkenstein, which was 
blown up by the French towards the end of the 
thirty years' war. Some of the best of the stones 



WINNWEILER TO KAISERSLAUTERN. 125 



have been used at different times by the in- 
habitants to build their houses with. The village 
of Falkenstein is half a league from Marienthal. 

Beyond the valley of Falkenstein is the town 
of Winnweiler ; it was once the capital of the 
county of Falkenstein, which was formerly go- 
verned by its own lords, bat which has since 
passed to the house of Lorraine, and lately to 
Austria. This little town is in a charming si- 
tuation, and had formerly a beautiful chateau. 
It contains about 1000 inhabitants. There is a 
considerable iron foundry in the neighbourhood. 

Inn. King of Bavaria. 

9. FROM WINNWEILER TO KAISERSLAUTERN. 
4 Leagues. 

Kaiser shut em is pleasantly situated amidst the 
hills. It contains 4000 inhabitants, and has se- 
veral manufactories of cloth, cotton, tobacco, and 
potash. Kaiserslautern is a very ancient town. 
Frederick Barbarossa built a castle which was 
separated from the town by its fortifications. 
The former was demolished during the thirty 
years' war, and the fortifications were destroyed. 
The Ritterberg street, the castle mill, the impe- 
rial mill, the Knappenthurm, and the Kaiser- 
wog, are the only traces of the former grandeur 
of this town. The Kaiserwog was formerly a fish- 
pond or lake below the castle, since converted 
into meadows. In 1230, Frederick II. threw a 
pike into this lake, to which was attached a gold 
ring, with the following inscription in Greek : — 
" I am the first of the fish thrown into this lake 
m 3 



126 LANDSTUHL TO K AISERSL AUTERN . 

by the Emperor Frederick II., October 5, 1230." 
It was caught again in 1497, by the Elector 
Philip, and served up at his table. It was 19 
feet long, and weighed 350 pounds ! ! 

i :< 

EXCURSION FROM KAISERSL AUTERN TO 
LANDSTUHL. — 3 Leagues. 

Landsiukl, the chief place of a canton^ has 
1600 inhabitants. It was formerly the residence 
of the Counts of Sickingen. The new castle is 
occupied as the post house. The old castle, 
built partly in the rock, * and fortified with walls I 
24 feet thick, commands the town. Here Fran- p 
cisof Sickingen was killed in 1523. 

10. LANDSTUHL, AND RETURN THROUGH 
OTTERBERG TO KAISERSLAUTERN. 

Otterberg is a small town with 2000 inha- 
bitants. The church is considered one of the i 
finest in Germany. It is built entirely of free- 
stone, and is in the form of a cross. The nave 
of the church belongs to the Protestants, and 
the choir to the Catholics. On each side of the 
nave there are ten square pillars, on which the j 
church rests. Each pillar is about ten German I 
feet in breadth, and the space between them is 
about 34 feet. The church itself is 263 feet in 
length, and the grand piazza of the choir is 121 
feet long, and 34 wide. The piazzas on the sides, 
which are nearly half the height of the church, 
are arched, and have each a separate roof : the 
one on the right, which extends as far as the 



LAUTREC TO MEISSENHEIM. 127 

transverse beam of the cross, is 180 feet long, 
and ] 5 wide ; that on the left is as long as the 
other, but is only 12 feet wide: the whole 
breadth of the nave, comprising the pillars and 
the buildings connected with them, is 81 feet. 
The church is 100 feet high, and the walls are 
8 \ feet thick. Formerly there were five doors 
to this church, but three of them have been 
closed up. Over the principal door are these 
words: Memento Conradi. It is supposed that 
these words relate to the generous and valiant 
Conrad III., who was the founder of it. In this 
church are several sepulchral stones of the priors 
of the abbey of Ottersberg. The tower of the 
church has been consumed by lightning. 

The traveller may also notice, — 1 . The colossal 
figures in the Town-house. — 2. The valley of 
Knabenbrunnen. — 3. The quarry. — 4. The 
Schlossberg, whence there is a good view. The 
distance from Otterberg to Kaiserslautern is two 
leagues. 

11. FROM KAISERSLAUTERN TO LAUTREC. 

Lautrec is the chief place of a canton, with 
800 inhabitants. It is situated at the confluence 
of the Lauter and the Glan. In its vicinity are 
quicksilver mine?. Inn. The Crown. 

12. FROM LAUTREC TO MEISSENHEIM. 
2 Leagues. 

Meissenheim is a small town picturesquely si- 
tuated on the Glan, formerly in the department 
of the Sarre, and the chief place of the posses- 



128 ALZEY TO KIRCHHE1M BOLANDEN. 



sions of Hesse Homburg, in this country. The 
principal objects worthy of notice are the town 
house, and the church containing the tombs of 
the Palatine Counts of Deux Ponts, and a pic- 
ture of the crucifixion. 

Inns. Schreiber's and the Stag. 

From Meissenheim an excursion may be made 
to Ober stein, where agates are worked. 

13. FROM MEISSENHEIM TO KREUZNACH. 

5 Leagues. 

Kreuznach will be described hereafter. 
14. FROM KREUZNACH TO ALZEY. 

Alzey is the chief place of a canton^ and a post 
station. It is situated on the little river Selzbach, 
at the junction of two great roads. It is a very 
ancient town. 

Inns. Waschman's, or Darmstadt Hotel ; the 
Three Kings. 

15. FROM ALZEY TO KIRCHHEIM-BOLANDEN. ; 

Kirch he'wi-Bolanden is a post station, and the 
chief place of a canton. It contains about 2400 
inhabitants. It was the residence of the princes 
of Nassau Weilburg, many of whom were buried 
in the Lutheran church here. Mont Tonnerre is 
two leagues from this town. 

Inn. The Post-house. 

Hence the traveller may continue his route 
from Kirchheim-Bolanden to Pfeddersheim, 5 
leagues ; and Pfeddersheim to Frankenthal, 4 
leagues. 



129 



J IV. FROM MANNHEIM TO MAYENCE. 

j In order to go from Mannheim to Mayence, 

I the traveller may either take the road to Heidel- 

| berg and Frankfort, or that through Worms and 

| Oppenheim, on the left bank of the Rhine. 

First Route. 

THROUGH WORMS AND OPPENHEIM. 

Leaving Mannheim, the traveller crosses the 
Rhine by the bridge of boats, and in about a 
league arrives at Oggersheim, a small town with 
1400 inhabitants, where there is a chateau which 
formerly belonged to the Elector of the palati- 
nate. This town is mentioned in writings of the 
eighth century, under the name of Agridesheim. 
In 1625, a detachment of Spanish troops pre- 
sented themselves before Oggersheim, with the 
intention of besieging it : all the inhabitants fled 
at their approach, with the exception of one man, 
who perceiving that they believed the town to be 
still inhabited, concluded a very advantageous 
capitulation with them. The townhouse, which 
is very ancient, and the new Catholic church, 
are the most remarkable buildings. Oggersheim 
is a post station. Inn. The Crown. 

About a league from Oggersheim is the town 
of Frankenthal, which was formerly rendered very 
flourishing by the great influx of Flemish and 
French refugees. It contains 4000 inhabitants, 
and has several manufactories. Since it has be- 
longed to Bavaria it has been made the chief 



130 



IV. FROM MANNHEIM 



place of an arrondissement. The canal of Fran- 
ken thai, which forms a communication between 
this town and the Rhine, was constructed in 1778 
by the Elector Charles Theodore. It receives its 
waters from the Speyerbach, the Isenach, and the! 
Fuchsbach. Its breadth is 50 feet, and it al- 
ways contains sufficient water for the passage of 
boats carrying 2000 quintals. 

The building which was formerly the china 
manufactory, was changed, under the French 
government, into a large poor-house, for the de- 
partment of Mont Tonnerre. Fran ken thai has 
five churches, including the new Protestant 
church, which was constructed in 1823 ; a town- 
house, and a casino. 

Inns. The Lamb, the Red Lion, the Unicorn, 
the Town of Mannheim, the White Lion. 

The heath, in the environs of Frankenthal, is 
that on which the Elector Charles Louis encamp- 
ed with his army. 

In the vicinity of Frankenthal is a recently 
formed village, named Maxdorf, in honour of the 
King of Bavaria. It is situated on the high road 
from Oggersheim to Durkheim. As the traveller 
passes through Rhenish Bavaria, he will be gra- 
tified at witnessing the number of schools formed 
by the present government. 

A league and a half from Frankenthal, the 
traveller leaves Rhenish Bavaria, and enters the 
Grand Duchy of Hesse. Worms is the first post 
station in this state. 



TO MAYENCE. 



131 



WORMS, 

One of the most ancient cities in Germany, is 
situated about two leagues from Frankenthal. 
This place occupies a very distinguished rank in 
the early history of that country. The Romans 
had an establishment there, and the first kings 
of the Franks frequently resided there for a con- 
siderable time : it was also the occasional resi- 
dence of Charlemagne, as well as several Carlo- 
vingian kings, who came after him. Worms was 
the first town which was rebuilt after the ravages 
of Attila. It became very early the seat of a 
count, bearing the title of Gaugraf ; and about 
the same time a royal palace was erected. Tn 
this palace the celebrated Brunehault, the widow 
of Sigebert, resided in 613 ; and, during the 
reign of Charlemagne, diets and champs de Mai 
were frequently held there. This town also forms 
a conspicuous figure in the modern history of 
Germany, as well as in that of the middle ages, 
partly on account of the number of diets con- 
voked there by the emperors, for the purpose of 
regulating the most important affairs of the em- 
pire, (the most remarkable of which are that of 
1495, which gave to Germany a constitutional 
form, and that of 1521, at which Luther ap- 
peared,) and partly on account of the importance 
which it derives from its own resources, the in- 
dustry of its inhabitants, its extensive commerce, 
and its numerous population, which amounted to 
30,000 souls at the end of the thirty years' war, 



132 



IV. FROM MANNHEIM 



as well as owing to the important part which it 
took as a member of the confederated towns,, in 
the wars with the neighbouring princes. 

"Worms has lost much of its ancient splendour 
during the last two centuries. There are many 
serious causes for this decline ; the principal of 
which are, the frequent wars between France and 
Germany, and its destruction by fire in 1689, : 
when it was burnt by the French, in consequence 
of which the greater part of the inhabitants were > 
dispersed. At present there are not more than 
6300 inhabitants, and nothing remains but the 4 
ruins of its former grandeur. Agriculture and 
the cultivation of vineyards form the principal 
employment of the inhabitants of this town. I 
There are several manufactories of snufT, and 
one where they make sugar of lead. 

The productions of the country form their 
chief commerce, consisting principally of oil, ^ 
wine, and all sorts of corn. The best wines 
made in the environs of Worms, are those called 
Liebfrauenmilch, Katterlocher, and Luginslander. 
There is a very pretty little wood near Worms, ; 
well known under the name of Waldchen, where 
numbers of people resort for amusement. The , 
village of Herrenshtim, about a league from this 
town, has also been much frequented since the 
Duke of Dalberg, who has a chateau there, has 
restored to the garden all its ancient splendour. 
Inn, The Crown. There are, besides, three groves 
in the environs of Worms, near the banks of the 
Rhine, called vntere Busch, mittlere Busch, and 



TO MAYESCE. 



133 



obere Busch, which form very agreeable prome- 
nades. The Rosenwald, a meadow situated in 
an island opposite Worms, is the scene of one of 
the most romantic poems of the middle age, the 
Nibelungen. It was there, according to tradition, 
that Siegfried killed the dragon. Those who are 
fond of music will have an opportunity, at Worms, 
of attending very good concerts by amateurs : 
they are held every week, on a Wednesday, — in 
summer, as well as in winter. 

The principal buildings in this town are, the 
Cathedral, and the Church of la Trinite, which 
belongs to the Lutherans. The first is a very 
ancient edifice, the foundations of which were 
laid in the 8th century, but it was not entirely 
finished for several centuries afterwards. Those 
who are connoisseurs in architecture will find 
much to admire in this building, as well as in 
several other churches. St. Martin's is a small 
church of the 1 1th or 12th century. St. Paul's 
is remarkable as exhibiting the progress of ar- 
chitecture from the Roman to the Gothic style. 
Notre Dame is of the 13th or 14th century. In 
the church of the Lutherans there is a picture 
painted in fresco, by Seckatz, representing Luther 
at the moment when he appeared before the diet 
of the empire ; but, as this church was not built 
and consecrated till after the great fire of 1689, 
that is to say, in 1725, and as Luther appeared 
before the diet in 1521 ; it appears pretty evident, 
that the figures in this picture cannot be original 
portraits of the persons whom they are supposed 

N 



134 



IV. FROM MANNHEIM 



to represent ; nor the place which the painter has 
chosen, the one where Luther spoke before the 
emperor and the members of the diet. 

In the court of the Town House are some Ro- 
man antiquities. 

The College of Worms was remodelled in 1803. 

At Pfijfligheim, near Worms, is still standing 
the tree beneath which Luther reposed. 

If the traveller wishes to make a tour from 
Worms to Mont Tonnerre, he should take the 
road which passes through Pfeddersheim, Mon- 
sheim, Wachenheim, and the valley called Zel- 
lerthal to Kirchheimbolanden. There is another 
and a shorter road, which passes through Mann- 
heim, but it is not so pleasant as the former. 

Inns. The Rcemer, the Black Eagle, the Swan, I 
at which is the Post House ; the White Horse, 
and the Peacock. 

Opposite Worms, on the right bank of the 
Rhine, is the ancient abbey of Lorsch, w T hich is 
Undoubtedly one of the most remarkable in Ger- 
many : it was from this place that civilization 
spread itself through the forest of Odenwald, the 
valley of Neckar, and the countries in the vici- 
nity of the Bergstrasse. 

Immediately below Worms is the Island of 
Spanwordt, and a little lower down is that called 
Maulbeerau, or Mulberry Island, near to which, 
the Pfrim falls into the Rhine. 

The road, on quitting Worms, passes near 
Rhcindurkheim, opposite to which, on the right 
bank of the Rhine, stands the ancient strong 



TO MA YEN CE * 



135 



chateau called Zum Stein. The traveller next 
proceeds to Guntersblum, which was formerly the 
residence of a family of the Counts of Linange. 
It was in the plain not far from this little town, 
that Conrad II., Duke of Rhenish Franconia, 
was elected emperor in 1024. The representa- 
tives of almost all Germany were assembled in 
this plain. The Franks of the Rhine, and the 
inhabitants of Upper and Lower Lorraine, en- 
camped on the left bank of the Rhine, and the 
Saxons, with the Slaves their neighbours, the 
Ostrofrancs, the Bavarians, and the Suabians, 
on the right; each of these nations were com- 
manded by its own duke in person. 

Between Guntersblum and Dienheim is the 
new village of Ludwigshohe, built instead of Ru- 
dels/ieim, which has been abandoned, being fre- 
quently inundated. 

At the distance of two leagues from Gunters- 
blum is Dienheim, celebrated for its wine, which 
is considered nearly as good as that made at 
Nierstein and Oppenheim. There is a good inn 
at this place, where travellers usually stop to 
dine. Dienheim is very ancient. Charlemagne 
made a present of it to the abbey of Fulde in 790 : 
it contains 700 inhabitants. 

Oppenheim is about two leagues from Dien- 
heim, and has 2100 inhabitants. This place, 
which during the reign of the Carlovingian kings, 
was only a mean village, in the 13th century 
attained to the rank of an imperial city, and be- 
came one of the confederated towns. Oppen- 



136 



IV. FROM MANNHEIM 



lieim was one of the first towns on the Rhine 
which established a printing-office, and the im- 
pressions which it has produced are considered 
great typographical curiosities. Strangers are 
shown the place at Oppenheim, where Gustavus 
Adolphus landed, after having crossed the Rhine 
on a barn-door. A column called the Swede's 
Column, which is seen on the right bank, marks 
the place where this king embarked when he 
attempted this singular passage. The Church 
of St. Catherine, on a hill above the town, is an 
edifice of the 13th century. The choir to the 
west, now in ruins, is of the 14th century. The 
hospital at Oppenheim is said to have been an 
ancient hotel of the Templars. Tnn. The Savage. 

Half a league from Oppenheim is Niersttin, 
with 1500 inhabitants, well known for the excel- 
lent wine which it produces. This village is one 
of the most ancient in the country, and had for- 
merly a royal palace. The inn situated near the 
Rhine is the best. Near it is a sulphurous 
spring. 

On leaving Nierstem, the traveller passes 
through the villages of Bodenheim and Lauben- 
hcim, where they likewise make very good wine. 
Weissenau is near Laubenheim, and is situated on 
the banks of the Rhine, half a league from May- 
ence. A spot near the church commands a very 
fine view of the Rhine and its banks. The tra- 
veller then proceeds to Mayence, which is situ- 
ated four leagues from Oppenheim. 



TO MAYENCE. 



137 



MAYENCE, 

Formerly the residence of the first elector of 
Germany, and more recently the chief place of a 
department of France, is now the most important 
town in the Grand Duchy of Hesse. It is situ- 
ated in the midst of the most beautiful and fer- 
tile country in Germany, opposite the mouth of 
the Maine, partly on the brow of a little hill, and 
partly on the banks of the river. Its population 
amounts to 26,000, without including the garri- 
son, which consists of 6000 Prussians and Aus- 
trians, this town being an important fortress of 
the Confederation. 

Martius Agrippa, one of the generals of Au- 
gustus, established in this place an intrenched 
camp, intended to oppose the Germans, who came 
in a body from Wiesbaden, with the intention of 
passing to the left bank. Drusus Germanicus 
afterwards constructed in the same place the fort 
called Magontiacum. This fort extended, follow- 
ing the same direction as the town, from the 
Mount St. Alban to the brow of the mountain 
called Linsenberg ; and on the other side, from 
the brow of the mountain called Gauthorberg to 
the ancient Drusensee, (Lake of Drusus,) putside 
the gate called Gauthor. The monuments which 
take their date from this epoch, are, the Eichel- 
stein, or Drususstein, (stone of Drusus,) on the 
ramparts; and the aqueduct near Zahlbach. 
The Roman antiquities found here have been de- 
n 3 



138 



IV. ¥ROM MANNHEIM 



posited in the gallery of antiquities. Three years 
after the foundation of Magontiacum, Drusus 
established another fort opposite the first, which 
is now called Kassel. 

It was in the year 70 of the Christian era, that 
the twenty-second legion, which under the Em- 
peror Titus had assisted in the conquest of Jeru- ' 
salem, came to garrison Mayence, and with it 
came Crescentius, who is supposed to have been 
the first that taught the Christian religion on the j' 
banks of the Rhine, under the title of bishop. 
The Emperor Trajan erected a fort at the mouth 
of the Maine, which became afterwards, under 
the reign of the Carlovingian kings, the royal | 
chateau called Kufstein. Adrian enlarged the | 
fort of Magontiacum, and it is said that he built | 
two new forts ; one of them, which was called the 
upper fort, was situated on a height near the vil- 
lage of Wissenau, about half a league from May- 
enee, on the side of Oppenheim ; and the other, f 
called the lower fort, stood on the north side of I 
the town, opposite to the first, at a place called 
Haupstein. } 

Mayence suffered much during the grand strug- | 
gle between the Germans and the Romans, and 
was afterwards entirely devastated. It remained p 
buried in ruins till the time of the Franks. Char- I 
lemagne established a convent and a school on f 
Mount St. Alban ; he also constructed a wooden ' 
bridge over the Rhine, which rested on stone 
piers. The piers of this bridge are still to be f 
seen under the water.— It was about this time l 



TO MAYENCE. 139 

that Winifred, or Boniface, was nominated bi- 
| shop of Mayence ; and the town, which became 
! the seat of a metropolitan church, rapidly in- 
j creased. 

The commerce of the towns situated on 
the Rhine, which was very flourishing in the 
13th century, being continually interrupted by 
the banditti, whose chiefs resided in the cha- 
teaux on the banks of the river, Arnaud Wal- 
poden, a citizen of Mayence, was the first who 
persuaded his fellow-citizens to form a league 
with the other towns. This league, known un- 
der the name of the Hanseatic Confederation, 
was concluded in 1355: more than one hundred 
towns situated on the Rhine, and several princes, 
counts, and other nobles, united in it. The 
chateaux which served as an asylum for the ban- 
ditti were burnt, and their ruins, which still ex- 
ist, form a very picturesque appearance. It is 
to the first founder of the Hanseatic league that 
the Counts of Bassenheim Walpoden owe their 
origin. It was towards the close of the 13th 
century that the town of Mayence attained its 
greatest splendour, and that the arts and sciences 
were in the most flourishing state. The poets 
called Minnesanger or Troubadours, made this 
place their principal residence: the one most 
celebrated was Henry Frauenlob, who died in 
1318, and whose coffin was carried to the grave 
by the women of Mayence. He was buried in 
the Cathedral, where the stone which covered his 
tomb is still to be seen. The epitaph has lately 
been renewed. 



i 



140 IV. FROM MANNHEIM 

it was about this time that the Rhenish con- 
federation built the Kaufhaus at Mayence, one L 
of the most elegant monuments in the environs j 
of the Rhine. This building was pulled down in l 
1813 to prevent its falling to decay, and a large 
square has been formed on its site, opposite to [ 
the hotel of the Three Crowns, which is remark- t 
able for its antiquity, having been an inn since ] 
1360. jj 

This town gained great celebrity in the 15th • 
century by the invention of printing ; an honour : 
of which Strasburg and Haarlem have in vain T 
endeavoured to deprive it. The attempts which . 
Guttenberg (the original inventor of printing,) 
first made at Strasburg, succeeded afterwards at 
Mayence. This town soon afterwards lost all its 
splendour by the terrible war with Didier of j 
Isenburg, and Adolphu% of Nassau. The prin- 
ters were amongst the number of those who emi- 
grated to the other towns of Germany, where 
they taught the newly discovered art. Didier, 
who after the death of Adolphus became again 
bishop of Mayence, rebuilt the chateau of Mar- 
tinsburg, which has since been demolished un- l I 
der the French government, and in 1417 found- j. 1 
ed a university. In the year 1797 the town of L 
Mayence became subject to Fiance, but was re- \ 
stored to Germany in 1814, with all the beautiful j] 
country of the Middle and Lower Rhine. May- ij 
ence is now the capital of the province of Rhe- i 
nish Hesse, and the principal seat of the admi-,, 
nistration of justice. It has a bishop, a chapter,!,! | 



TO MAYENCE. 



141 



a public seminary, a medical school, a gymna- 
sium possessing the collection of instruments 
formerly at the library, a lying-in establishment, 
and a vaccine institution. 

There are twenty-one public places, the prin- 
cipal of which are, — 1 . The Parade, formerly the 
Castle Square.— 2. The Thier Market, or Cattle 
Market, the forum gentile of the Romans. — 3. 
The Provision Market — 4, The Hay Market.— 
5. The Brand or Commercial Square. — 6. The 
Flax Market— 7. The Leichof or Cemetery.— 8. 
The Tennis Court.— 9. The Guttenburg Square, 
in which are the Theatre and Corn Hall. 

There are 129 streets, most of which are very 
narrow. The handsomest are the Drey Bleichen 
and that of Lewis (Ludwigstrasse,) which leads 
from the Thiermarkt to the Provision Market, 
and extends the whole breadth of the town. The 
most commercial streets are the Schustergasse 
and the Augustinergasse. 

The most remarkable objects in this town are, 
— 1. The (ci-devant) Free-port. — 2. The Bridge 
of Boats over the Rhine. — 3, The Cathedral, 
which suffered a little in a siege during the late 
war. This edifice presents specimens of the dif- 
ferent styles of architecture from the year 900 to 
1500. The East choir, and its entrance appear 
to be of the year 900, the nave of 1000, and 
the West choir of 1100. The church has two 
choirs, two cupolas, and four towers. The cha- 
pels aleng the nave are of the early part of 
the 14th century. The Cathedral contains the 



142 IV. FROM MANNHEIM 

tombs of Bishop Albert of Brandenburg, the 
Grand Prior of Dalberg, the General Count de 
Larnberg, Jean Georges de Schonborn, Fastrada, 
wife of Charlemagne, and Frauenlob : the two 
latter are the most remarkable. The baptisma I 
font was cast in 1325.— 4. The Church of St. 
Ignatius, — 5. The ancient Church of St. Stephen. 
This church is agreeably situated, and there is a 
beautiful prospect from the top of the steeple, 
which is 210 feet in height. Its altars are de- 
corated with some pictures of the ancient German 
school. — 6. The Church of St. Emmeran, the 
altar-piece of which was painted by Maulperch. — 
7. The Church of St. Peter, a modern building 
with two towers. In the nave is the tomb of the 
Austrian general Wolkenstein. — 8, The Church 
of the Seminary formerly the Augustines. — 9. 
The Teutonic House now the Grand Duke's 
Palace, which was the residence of Napoleon 
when at Mayence. — 10. The Dalberg Palace. 
— 1 1. The Citadel, whence there is a view of one 
of the finest countries in Germany. — 12. The an- 
cient Schroder Coffee-house, where there is a 
reading-room and a casino, to which strangers 
are admitted, after being introduced by a member. 
It is situated in the place where formerly stood 
the house belonging to the family of Gensfleisch 
of Sorgenlocrr, and which was called Zum Gut- 
temberg, whence the inventor of printing derived 
his name. His printing-office was in the court 
called Zum Jungen, near the ancient church of 
the Franciscans, where the arms of the Gutten- 



TO MA YEN CE. 



143 



berg family are still to be seen. Guttenberg first 
made use of long and movable wooden letters. 
Faust, or Fust, who lived in the hotel of the 
Three Kings, in the Shoemakers' Street, (Schus- 
tergasse) made use of cast letters, which were in- 
vented by Sch offer, of Gernsheim on the Rhine, 
not far from Mayence. This man was the pre- 
ceptor of Faust's children, and afterwards became 
his son-in-law. A column commemorating the 
invention of printing was erected here, October 
4, 1824. — 13. The Eichelstein, near the moun- 
tain of St. James. This is the interior of a mo- 
nument erected in honour of Drusus. The carved 
stones with which the outside was covered, have 
fallen a prey to the universal destroyer, Time. — 

14. The Favorite, which was formerly a summer 
palace of the Elector, but was destroyed during 
the siege of Mayence. It is now a promenade. — 

15. The Theatre erected in 1817. — 16. The 
Arsenal. 

The ancient chateau of Martinsburg stood in 
front of the new chateau, and produced a very 
fine effect ; but as it was considerably injured in 
1797 by the explosion of the laboratory which 
was situated near it, it was judged proper to de- 
stroy it for the convenience of the free-port. 

Amongst the public collections are, — 1* The 
Museum of Roman Monuments, which is cer- 
tainly a more complete collection than is to be 
found in any other town out of Italy. It consists 
of twenty-seven altars and votive stones, as well 
as more than sixty other stones belonging to the 



144 



IV. FROM MANNHEIM. 



Roman legions, all of which have been found in 
the environs of Mayence. Here also is preserved 
the model of a stone bridge which Napoleon had 
projected across the Rhine. — 2. The Gallery of 
Pictures ; the principal of which are an Apollonia, 
by Domenichino ; a Carmelite on his knees, by 
Hannibal Carracci ; an Ascension of the Holy 
Virgin, by Francis de Quercino ; Christ in the 
temple, by Jordaeans ; Adam and Eve, by Albert 
Diirer ; and the Menagerie, by Rubens, in which 
the animals are painted by Snyders. The director 
of this gallery is M. N. Muller, who is an artist, 
and also the author of several pieces in verse, as 
well as of some other works on the subject of the 
fine arts. — 3. The Library, containing about 
80,000 volumes, amongst which there are some 
valuable works, particularly those printed during 
the infancy of the art ; such as the Psalter of 
1459, the Bible of 1462, the Catholicon of 1460, 
and several thousands of others of early date. It 
is open to the public every day from eight o'clock 
to one, except on Saturdays and Sundays. The 
librarian is M. Lehne, who is particularly distin- 
guished for his zeal in collecting together the an- 
cient monuments of the country. He has at his 
own house a fine collection of Roman vases of 
every description, as well as other antiquities. 
—4. The collection of Surgical instruments at the 
Lying-Inn Hospital. 

There is a very agreeable promenade along the 
banks of the Rhine, which has been newly planted. 
The Roman aqueduct, and the Cemetery near 



TO MAYENCE. 145 

Zahlbach, are likewise worthy of the traveller's ob- 
i servation, as well as the islands called Petersaue 
\ and Ingelheimer Aue, in the Rhine, near the town, 
j During summer there are steam-vessels three 
I or four times a-week from Mayence to Cologne, 
! performing the voyage in one day. There is also 
! a coche d'eau to the same place every day in 
■ summer, and every other day in winter. Boats 
1 called Marktschiff also go from Mayence to 
I Frankfort, and vice versa, as well as to Bingen. 

By land, there are constant opportunities of 
i hiring return carriages ; and during winter there 
; is a diligence to Cologne, which sets out every 
I other day at three o'clock in the afternoon, 
| reaches Bingen the same day, proceeds to 
i Coblentz the second day, stops there all night, 
and arrives at Cologne the third day. The same 
diligence sets out every day during the summer, 
as soon as the gates of the town are opened. 

A diligence also sets out every day from May- 
ence to Paris. 

Inns. The Three Crowns, at which the dili- 
gences stop ; the Emperor, on the Heumarkt ; the 
White Horse ; the Hotel de Paris, the master of 
which speaks English ; the Court of Darmstadt ; 
the Carp ; the White Fort ; the Town of Alzei. 
The charge for a valet de place per day is about 1 \ 
florin, and the pour boire about half a florin. 

Baths. Above and below the Bridge are good 
baths. A cold bath costs 12 kreuzers, and a 
warm bath 30 kreuzers. 

o 



14G 



IV. FROM MANNHEIM 



Second Route. 

THROUGH HEIDELBERG \ ACROSS THE BERG- 
STRAS9E, THROUGH DARMSTADT AND FRANK- 
FORT ON THE MAINE. 

I 

The road "leading from Mannheim to Mayence i 
through Heidelberg and Frankfort, is not less at- 
tractive than the one which has just been de- 
scribed. On the road to Heidelberg, which is 
four leagues from Mannheim, are the villages of 
Seckenheim, Edingen, and Wieblingen, resembling 
so many small towns. The chain of mountains, 
as seen in the distance between Mount St. Michel 
near Bruchsal, and Mount Melibocus near Darm- 
stadt, presents a very picturesque appearance. 
The town of Heidelberg, with the ruins of its old 
castle ; the high mountain of Konigstuhl ; the 
ruins on the summit of the Heiligenberg, and se- 
veral villages situated in the bottom of winding 
valleys, are so many objects whose beauties con- 
tinually fix the attention of the traveller. 

HEIDELBERG 

Is situated at the entrance of the beautiful 
valley of the Neckar, at which place the road 
called the Bergstrasse (the ancient strata mon- \ 
tana,) commences, and terminates one league and 
a half on this side of Darmstadt. The most re- 
markable objects at Heidelberg are,— -1. The 
Castle, the ruins of which are considered some 
of the most beautiful in Germany.^ — 2. The Uni- 



TO MAYENCE, 



147 



versity, with an extensive library, which has been 
considerably augmented by the libraries of several 
suppressed convents. In 1817 also were restored 
190 MSS. of the celebrated Bibliotheca Palatina 
which had been taken to Rome in 1622, and af- 
terwards to Paris. — 3. The Cabinet of Natural 
History. — 4. The Theatre of Anatomy, and the 
Lying-in Establishment. '■■ — 5. The Chemical La* 
boratory.- — 6. The Hospital, which has been es- 
| tablished in the building called Clinicum. — 7. The 
Church of St. Esprit.— 8. The Church of St, 
Peter, which contains some ancient tombs. 

There are several places in the environs of 
Heidelberg, which travellers should make a point 
of visiting; such as, — 1. The Mountain of Hei- 
ligenberg, with the Ruins on its summit. — 2. The 
Wolfsbrunnen. — 3. The Convent of Neuburg. — 4. 
The Mountain of Konigstuhl or Kaiserstuhl, on 
which is a monument commemorative of the visit 
of the Emperor Francis. — 5. The Rock called 
Riesenstein, which is a good situation to take a 
view of the town and Castle. 

Inns. The Court of Baden ; the Carlsberg ; 
the Prince Charles ; the King of Portugal, which 
is the post and diligence office. 

The road then crosses the Neckar to Neuenheim, 
a village a quarter of a league from Heidelberg. 
The last house which is seen on leaving Neuen- 
heim is the one where Luther slept when he re- 
paired to the diet at Worms. On quitting this 
village, the valley of the Neckar suddenly disap- 
pears, and the traveller reaches the Bergs trasse. 



148 



IV. FROM MANNHEIM 



The road, which is shaded by fine walnut and 
other fruit-trees, leads next to Handschuhsheim % at 
the foot of the mountain of Heiligenberg : a road, 
which passes through the valley of Muhlenthal, 
leads from this place to the summit of the moun- 
tain. In the village are seen the dilapidated 
walls of an ancient convent, and the ruins of the 
old castle of Handschuhsheim. 

About two leagues from Heidelberg is Schries- 
heim, near to which is the village of Dossenheim, 
whence may be seen the ruins of the Castle of 
Sckauenburg, situated on the top of a mountain of 
a conical form. The old Castle of Strahlenburg, 
which is at the back of a high mountain behind 
Schriesheim, presents a very agreeable aspect, In 
the plain on the left is a column which marks the 
place where a Roman cemetery was discovered in 
1766. The length of it was eighty-four feet, and 
the breadth sixty. 

Half a league further the traveller passes near 
LeutersAausen, a country-house, which formerly 
belonged to the Counts of Wieser : a little lower 
are seen the villages of Grossachsenheim, Hohen- 
sachsenheim, and Mittelsachsenheim, with the old 
Castle of Sassenbvrg, which are half concealed 
by hills and fruit-trees. It is said that these 
three villages were founded by the Saxons, who 
quitted their country and came to establish them- 
selves there during the reign of Charlemagne. 

On crossing a very narrow valley to the right, 
the traveller comes to a mine from which were 
formerly extracted alum and green vitriol. 



TO MAYENCE. 149 

|; It is said that, in former times, a very extensive 
] lake covered the whole country between the 
, Bergstrasse and the Vosges ; and the numerous 
( valleys which intersect this country ; the frequent 
. Changes which have taken place in the currents 
| of the Rhine and the Neckar ; the vast plain 
J which extends without interruption between the 
two great chains of mountains ; the rich and often 
| marshy land in the environs of the Rhine ; and 
I the immense plains of sand near Darmstadt ; all 
tend to give some appearance of probability to 
this fabulous recital. It is also pretended that a 
wicked magician, who resided in this country, 
and who did a great deal of mischief to the inha- 
bitants, was seized by the king who then reigned 
there, and confined in a large cage, which was 
suspended in such a way that he could not 
touch the earth ; by which means the science of 
magic became useless to him ; but having pro- 
mised to improve the country, by dispersing the 
waters of the lake which covered it, he was set at 
liberty, and performed his promise, by causing 
the waters to retire to the centre of the earth, 
whence arose, as it is pretended, the gulf called 
Bingerloch, near the town of Bingen. 

The road now begins to ascend, and the pro- 
spect extends towards the Rhine, and as far as 
the bottom of the Bergstrasse ; behind the tra- 
veller appears Ladenburg and the city of Mann- 
heim, 

Ladenburg is situated 2 leagues from Heidel- 
berg, at a short distance from the Neckar. It is 
o 3 



150 



FROM MANNHEIM 



the oldest town of the Palatinate on this side the 
Rhine. 

Weinheim, with 4200 inhabitants, is situated 
four leagues from Heidelberg. It is built in the 
form of an amphitheatre, at the foot of a moun- 
tain, and exhibits in every part traces of its an- 
cient origin. There are still distinctly seen the 
remains of ancient fortifications ; thick walls, 
towers, and ditches half filled up. The streets 
are narrow, and form many angles ; the market- 
place, which is on the steep declivity of a small 
hill, is very inconvenient. There are six churches, 
an abbey, a castle, and an hospital. 

The environs of Weinheim are more beautiful 
and more fertile than any other part of the Berg- 
strasse. The old chateau of fVindek, which is si- 
tuated behind the town on a hill covered with 
vineyards, has a very picturesque appearance. 

The northern part of the town is watered by 
the Weschnitz (formerly Wisgatz), which flows 
through a wild and romantic valley on the side 
of Birkenau. This valley is very steep, and so 
narrow, that there is scarcely room for a small 
path which runs along the banks of the river. 

At the end of the valley, and nearly half a 
league from Weinheim, is Birkenau, whence a 
road leads to Fiirth, in the forest of Odenwald, 
and to the old castle of Rodenstein, situated in the 
midst of a forest, which forms part of the district 
of Weinheim. 

There is another pretty valley east of Wein- 
heim, called the valley of Gorxheim, through which 



TO MAYENCE. 



151 



| runs a little rivulet from Gorxheim to the Wesch- 
nitz. At the end of the village is an inscription 
I in memory of the soldiers of the Odenwald, who 
! were killed here in 1 799 ? when pursuing the 
j French. 

Heppenheim, with 3300 inhabitants, is situated 
! three leagues from Weinheim. The road which 
| leads to it passes along the mountains through 
| the villages of Sulzbach, Hembach, and Lautenbach. 
' The wine made at the latter place is considered 
| some of the best which is produced in the neigh- 
bourhood of the Bergstrasse. A cross erected 
between Hembach and Lautenbach, points out 
the spot where two Swiss merchants were assas- 
sinated by robbers, in 1811. 

The road near Heppenheim passes over a small 
l height, on the top of which are seen several posts 
which mark the limits between the country of 
Baden and that of Darmstadt. From this eleva- 
tion there is a beautiful view of the Bergstrasse, 
particularly towards the south. 

It is said that Heppius, a Roman knight, pos- 
sessed a villa at Heppenheim, which having fallen 
into ruins, was rebuilt by Charlemagne, who like- 
wise erected the church. A stone is still shown 
on which are inscribed the names of the different 
places that Charlemagne gave in 778, with Hep- 
penheim and its precincts, to the convent of 
Lorsch. 

Inn. The Half Moon. 

Behind the town is a mountain, formerly called 
Berkhelden. It is covered with vineyards and 



152 



IV. FROM MANNHEIM 



fruit-trees. A very convenient road leads round 
it to the old castle of Sturkenburg, which is de- 
cidedly the finest monument of Teutonic chivalry 
to be seen throughout the Bergstrasse, or the 
Forest of O den w aid. 

The road, which is shaded by some fine walnut 
trees, leads to the little town of Bensheim, one 
league from Heppenheim. About half-way on 
the road, on the side of the mountains, is a small 
hill, surrounded by arable land, remarkable for its . 
verdant appearance, and for two isolated trees 
which shade its summit. This hill bears the . 
name of Landsberg, and is the place where, in [ 
ancient times, the Counts of Stark enburg were ' 
accustomed to administer justice to their vassals. 

On the left of Bensheim, about a league dis- ; 
tant, is the village of Lorsch, in the neighbour- 
hood of which are the ruins of the Abbey of 
Lorsch, and half a league further the site of Alt- 
munster, an older abbey, situated on an island of 
the Weschnitz. This river has since taken an- 
other course, and grass and thistles have sprung 
up in the corridors of the abbey. 

Bensheim is a cheerful little town, with 3500 
inhabitants, who carry on a considerable com- 
merce. This circumstance, together with its si- 
tuation at the foot of a mountain planted with 
vines, the antiquity of its buildings, the ruinous 
state of its fortifications, its high walls surmounted 
with towers, and its deep ditches, give to this 
little town an appearance altogether unique. 

The cemetery of HessenkirchhofF, opposite the 
gate of Auerbach, is also remarkable. 



TO MAYENCE. 



153 



Inns. The Three Kings, the Lion. 

Nearly half a league farther, at the bottom of 
the mountains, is Schonberg, situated in the midst 
of a narrow and picturesque valley. This village 
has an old castle, which is still the usual residence 
of the Count of Erbach Schonberg. The English 
garden laid out round the mountain on which the 
castle stands, has a charming aspect. 

If the traveller chooses to follow the road 
through the valley, he may take a very agreeable 
walk to Reichenbach, which is not far distant, and 
thence to the foot of the mountain of Feldberg. 
! Enormous masses of rock heaped one on the 
other from the foot to the summit of the mountain, 
present a scene truly astonishing. There is a 
tradition that they were placed in this situation 
by some giants, who threw them at each other 
when fighting at the top of the mountain, A 
path, very difficult of ascent, leads by the side of 
this chain of rocks to the summit of the Feldberg : 
a dull noise is continually heard, which appears 
to proceed from a brook beneath the rocks, but 
this brook has never yet been discovered. 

Rather more than half-way up the moiintain 
stands the column called Riesensaule : it is a block 
of hewn granite, thirty feet in length and four 
feet in diameter. A little higher is seen another 
block called Riesenaltar (giants' altar), which, to 
judge from its size and square form, appears to 
have been intended for a pedestal to the former 
one. The Feldberg is several feet higher than 
the Warte, or the Melibocus, and the traveller may 
enjoy from its summit a view of the picturesque 



154 



IV. FROM MANNHEIM 



scenery of the Odenwald. A hunting-seat, si- 
tuated towards the west, affords the traveller an : 
opportunity of refreshing and reposing himself in 
a very agreeable place. 

A quarter of a league from Bensheim is Auer- 
bachy a considerable and opulent village, with a 
mineral spring, and a villa belonging to the 
Grand-Duke of Darmstadt. There are two very 
agreeable promenades, one of which leads to the 
mountain of Altarsberg, and the other to the ruins 
of the old castle of Auersberg, where art has suc- 
ceeded in adding new beauties to those which 
nature had already so lavishly bestowed. 

Inn. The Rose. 

When the traveller reaches Auerbach he should 
make a point of ascending the Melibocus, one of 
the highest mountains of the Berastrasse. It 
overlooks the valley of the Rhine, from Spire to 
Bingen, the Vosges, and Mont Tonnerre. There 
is a tower on its summit, built during the last cen- 
tury, which from its white appearance distin- 
guishes this mountain at a great distance. At 
the top of this tower there is a good telescope, 
through which may be seen a very extensive pro- 
spect. Travellers who wish to ascend the Meli- 
bocus, would do well to pass the night at Alsbach, 
a little village at the foot of the northern part of 
the mountain ; they should then commence their 
ascent soon after midnight* accompanied by the 
person who keeps the keys of the tower, whence 
the rising of the sun produces a sublime effect, 
even when the weather is not quite clear. 



TO MAYENCE. 



155 



At the farthest extremity of the Bergstrasse, 
half a league from Auerbach, is the ancient 
Zwingenberg, where the country begins to lose its 
beauty, and an immense plain of sand exhibits a 
perpetual sameness to the eye of the traveller. 
About half a league from Zwingenberg, in front 
I of Bickenbach, which is a post station, is an hos- 
! pital for the Hessian troops ; in the neighbour- 
i hood are the ruins of the ancient castles of Tan- 
neberg and Dassa. 

A straight road leads thence through a gloomy 
wood of fir-trees, to the village of Eberstadt, 
where is seen the old castle of Frankenstein, which 
might not improperly be called the guardian of 
the Bergstrasse, as it appears to protect the en- 
1 trance to this country. This chateau existed as 
! far back as the time of the Carlovingian kings ; 
and, judging by the ruins, it appears to have been 
a chef-d'oeuvre of ancient architecture. 

Another road also passing through the wood of 
fir-trees, which here bears the name of Tanne, 
leads from Eberstadt to Bessungen, a large and 
opulent village, that may be considered as a sub- 
urb of Darmstadt. There are barracks for two 
squadrons of light horse, and two gardens belong- 
ing to the court, one of which contains a great 
number of exotic plants, and a fine orangery. 

DARMSTADT 

(Formerly Darmunstadt), the residence of the 
Grand-Duke of Hesse-Darmstadt, is situated in 
the midst of a vast plain, which is entirely des- 



156 



IV. FROM MANNHEIM 



titute of beauty, in the environs of the town on 
the side of the Rhine ; bat is much pleasanter in 
that part towards the Bergstrasse and the Oden- 
wald. 

The town at present contains about 1000 
houses and 16,000 inhabitants, but new streets ) 
are added to it every year, and plans are still 
forming for its extension. Those who have not j 
seen Darmstadt for the last eighteen years, will t 
scarcely recognize it; a new town has sprung up ; 
by the side of the old one, which nearly equals it : 
in size, and surpasses it in beauty. 

The most remarkable objects in Darmstadt \ 
are, — 1. The Castle, which is the residence of the /• 
Grand-Duke. The Landgrave Ernest- Lewis, who , 
died in 1739, projected a splendid palace, only a \ 
portion of which has been completed. This,'; 
however, comprises the, following objects worthy • 
of notice. The Museum, which has only been 
open to the public since the reign of the present 
Grand-Duke, and which has been considerably 
augmented by purchases, as well as by the dona- 
tions of Baron Hiibsch. It contains some cu- 
rious philosophical instruments, a collection oft 
engravings and drawings, and some antiquities, ; 
among which is a mummy in good preservation. 
The Picture Gallery, which contains upwards of 
600 paintings of the different schools. There is 
also in the private rooms a collection of models, 
some in cork, and some in plaster, representing 
ancient Roman monuments. The Cabinet of 
Natural History, remarkable for a collection of 



TO MAYENCE. 157 

i | bones of different animals now unknown, the 
i greater part of which have been found in the vi- 
cinity of Darmstadt. An Armoury of considera- 
ble extent. A collection of costumes of various 
) nations. Most of these various collections are 
s open to the public every Wednesday, from nine 
1 i o'clock to one. Strangers are admitted every 
t ! day. The Library belonging to the court con- 

1 | tains 110,000 volumes, and is constantly receiv- 
) j ing additions. It is open on Mondays and Fri- 
t days from two to five. — 2. The Theatre, built in 

1819, from designs by M. Moller,.a pupil of M. 

t i Weinbrenner. It is capable of accommodating 

2 1800 spectators. The opera here is celebrated, 
) i the Grand-Duke being a great connoisseur of friu- 
i sic. — 3. The building called Exercierhaus, which 
, I is a curious piece of architecture, erected by Louis 
f ! IX. in 1772. It is 272 feet by 134. It was 
l ! formerly used for military exercises, but is now 
t a depot of artillery. — 4. The Gymnasium, founded 
f in 1627, by the Landgrave George. This estab- 
- ! lishmenthas been particularly distinguished since 

the time of Wenk, and is now under the able di- 
f rection of J. G. Zimmerman. — 5. The New Ca~ 
i, tholic Church. — 6. The New Assembly-room, 
i, built by M. Moller. — 7. The various English 
I Gardens, which are all beautiful, but particularly 
s the one called Herrengarten, where there is a 
| very remarkable monument, erected by Frederick 
j, I. to the memory of a Princess of Darmstadt. — 
f 8. The two great stables belonging to the court, 
if —9. The New Fountain. 

p 



158 IV. FROM MANNHEIM TO MAYENCE. 



Inns* The Hesse Hotel ; the Grape ; the Court 
of Darmstadt. 

There are at Darmstadt two societies called 
clubs, to which strangers may easily gain access. 
The members meet in splendid apartments every 
Thursday evening, from six o'clock till nine, in 
order to enjoy the pleasures of conversation, mu- 
sic, dancing, cards, and other games. 

There are several agreeable promenades in the 
environs of Darmstadt : amongst others, the ave- 
nue of linden-trees on that side towards May- 
ence ; the gardens near the town, and those at 
Bessungen ; the road which leads to the lake 
called Grosser Trog, by means of which the 
whole town may be inundated in case of fire ; 
the road leading to the place called Drey Brun- 
nen ; that over the mountain of Hergottsberg, 
(about a quarter of a league from Darmstadt) 
whence there is a fine prospect of the environs 
of the Rhine, as well as some very beautiful 
forest scenery ; the road to the farm called 
Karlshof, belonging to M. Berkhausen. 

Another excursion is that of Schlanipelweg, to 
the farm of Dippelsh of, one league and a half, and 
thence to Oberramstadt, the birth-place of Lich- 
tenberg, half a league. 

Another very agreeable road is the one leading 
to Niederramstadt : a hut situated at the end of 
a picturesque forest, suddenly appears to view, 
surrounded by a pretty garden ; the hut itself 
was built by the hereditary Princess of Darm- 
stadt, who formerly made it her favourite resi- 



DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 150 

| dence, and gave it the name of Emmeline's Hut. 
! On quitting this place, the traveller may take 
| the road to the right, which leads to the paper 
j mill, whence he may return through a charming 
; valley to Eberstadt. 

! Another tour may be made to Cranichstein, a 
' hunting-seat built by the Landgrave Louis VIII. 
! In the corridors of this chateau are seen a great 
| number of stags' horns, most of which are very 
remarkable. 

I Another excursion is to the Pheasantry half a 
! league distant, beyond which the road leads to 
the village of Allerheiligen, and thence to the 
post station of Langen, half-way between Dann- 
I stadt and Frankfort. 

FRANKFORT ON THE MAINE 

Is situated six leagues from Darmstadt. It 
was formerly an Imperial town, and the place 
where the Roman Emperors were elected. It is 
now one of the four free towns of Germany, and 
the seat of the Germanic Diet. It is situated on 
the Maine, in a fertile plain bounded by hills on 
the south and north. 

The Maine divides the town into two unequal 
parts. A stone bridge connects the northern 
part, which is Frankfort properly so called, with 
the southern portion, which is of much less 
extent, and bears the name of Sachsenhausen. 
This bridge was constructed in the 14th cen- 
tury ; and rests on 14 large arches. It is 
| about 1020 English feet in length, and 30 feet 

i 



160 DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 

in breadth. The Maine is here about 278 feet 
above the level of the sea. It falls about 32 feet 
between Frankfort and Mayence. 

Four old towers (Wartthurme) situated on the 
four principal roads, about half a league from the 
town, denote the ancient boundaries of the ter- 
ritory of Frankfort. 

Frankfort has nine principal gates, two of 
which are at Sachsenhausen. When the fortifi- 
cations were demolished between 1806 and 1812, 
the old gates were transformed into elegant bar- 
riers, and their gloomy towers replaced by toll 
and guard-houses of modern architecture. The 
site of the fortifications was also laid out at the 
same time into charming promenades, which sur- 
round the town, and form an excellent scene of 
recreation for its inhabitants. 

Frankfort is divided into twelve quarters, de- 
signaled by the first twelve letters of the alpha- 
bet (A to M), and Sachsenhausen into two quar- 
ters (N and O). The number of houses amounts 
to 4000. The houses of each quarter bear num- 
bers in the Arabic character; and those of 
the new streets on the site of the fortifications 
are numbered with Roman letters ; a mode which 
affords great facility in finding out any particu- 
lar house. There are about 45^000 inhabitants, 
two-thirds of whom are Lutherans. The remain- 
ing third is about equally divided into Catholics, 
Calvinists, and Jews. 

Frankfort was originally only an imperial pa- 
lace, which Charlemagne built at the time of his 



DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 161 

passage into this country ; for the real meaning 
of the word furt in Frankfurt is passage. The 
first notice of Frankfort in history refers to the 
year 793, when Charlemagne held a Diet in this 

! palace for the purpose of regulating the affairs of 
the Church and Empire. The establishment of 
a colony of Saxon prisoners in Sachsenhausen, 

! about this period, is a comparatively recent tra- 
dition without any solid foundation. The palace 
of Charlemagne stood on the spot now occupied 
by the church of St. Leonard, but no traces of it 
exist. In 822, Louis le Debonnaire erected an- 
other palace, the chapel of which, the oldest 
building in the town, and the name of Saalhof, 
are alone preserved. From the time of Louis le 
Debonnaire till the extinction of the Carlovingian 
race, Frankfort was the capital of East Franco- 
nia. It was probably during the dominion of the 
Othos, that the town was surrounded by walls. 
In the reign of Louis of Bavaria (after 1333), the 
citizens extended the enclosure of their town, the 
boundaries of which were not farther enlarged 
till later times. From 1147, Frankfort had be- 
come by custom, and in 1356, was created by 
an article in the Golden Bull, the seat of the 
election of the German Emperors. In more re- 
cent times, the elections have taken place there, 
although Aix-la-Chapelle was the town appointed 
for the coronations. 

Two fairs are held annually at Frankfort. 
That in autumn (about the beginning of Septem- 
ber) is the oldest: it is probably indebted for its 
p 3 



162 DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 

origin to the fete held there in the ninth century, 
to celebrate the dedication of St. Mary's church. 
In 1240, the Emperor Frederick II. declared that 
all persons resorting to it should be under the 
particular protection of the Emperor and of him- 
self. Frankfort is indebted to Louis of Bavaria 
for the Easter fair, which was established there 
in 1330. 

After various political discussions, in the 14th 
and beginning of the 17th century, the cus- 
toms and convention of 1613 served to esta- 
blish the interna] constitution of the town. 
Some slight alterations were made in 1732, by 
the publication of two imperial rescripts, pre- 
scribing the institution of a Council of Represen- 
tatives of the townsmen. 

During the wars of the French Revolution, 
Frankfort was several times laid under contri- , 
bution, and even bombarded during three days 
by the French, who burnt a part of the Jews' 
quarter, built in 1662. The city was deprived 
of its liberty by Napoleon, and given to the Prince 
Primate. It then became the capital of the | 
Grand-Duchy of Frankfort, and remained so till 
after the victory of Leipsic, when the Allied 
Powers restored its independence, December 
13th, 1813. Since this period it has formed 
part of the Germanic Diet, and is also the seat 
of the Assembly of Deputies; it furnishes seven 
hundred and twenty men as its contingent of 
troops, and, in conjunction with the three other 
free towns, has a voice in the deliberations. In- 



DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT* 



163 



dependency of a deputy at the Diet, it has 
charges-d'afFaires at Vienna and at Paris, and 
consuls at London and Philadelphia. The sove- 
reigns who formed the Holy Alliance invited 
Frankfort to join them, a request with which the 
town complied. 

The new constitution of the town, which was 
established October 18th, 1816, is a temperate 
democracy. The supreme government rests in 
the body of townsmen professing the Christian 
religion, and is exercised by three powers, — the 
Senate, the Council of Representatives of the 
townsmen, and the Legislative Body. 

The Lutheran churches are, — 1. The Church 
of barefooted Carmelites, in the Barfusser Gasse, 
begun towards the close of the last century; 
but only recently finished. It is built of free- 
stone, and forms an oval 132 feet in length, 
and 108 in breadth.— 2. The Church of St. Ca- 
therine, in the Parade Platz — 3. The Church of 
White Ladies, near the barracks, containing a 
picture by Wendelstadt. — 4. The Church of St. 
Peter, in the Alte Gasse, near the old cemetery. — 
5. The Church t of the Holy Ghost, belonging to 
the hospital of the same name. — 6. The Church 
of the Three Kings, at Sachsenhausen. 

There are also several oratories. The reformed 
communities, German and French, have each a 
church built in the antique style. The French 
church is between the Rossmarkt and the Co- 
modien Platz. The German is in the Gross Korn 
Markt. 



164 



DESCRIPTION 



OF FRANKFORT. 



The Roman Catholic Churches are, — 1 . The 
Cathedral, or Church of St. Bartholomew, on 
the south side of the town, at a short distance 
from the bridge. It was nearly of the same form 
and size in the 14th century as at present. In 
this church the kings of Germany were elected, 
and after the election stood on the altar. The 
old chapel where the election took place still ex- 
ists. The Cathedral also contains the tomb of 
Gonthier of Schwarzburg, who died at Frank- 
fort in the 14th century; that of Rodolph of 
Sachsenhausen, and several other ancient monu- ; 
ments. The sculpture of the stalls was execut- a 
ed in the 14th century. In the sacristy are 
several pictures of the ancient German school. 
Those in the church are of the modern Flemish 
school. On one side of the church is the Belfry, ! 
which was begun by the architect Matern Gart- 
ner, who carried it to a height of 260 feet. It 
was finished in 1509, by John of Ettlingen. 

2. The Church of St. Leonard on the river side 
occupies the site of the Palace of Charlemagne. 
The two towers date as far back as the com- 
mencement of the 13th century, a period when 
the Emperor Frederick II. presented to the 
town the ground on which the church is built : 
the other parts are not so old. The roof of one 
of the naves is curiously constructed. The altar- * 
piece is by Stieler. » c 

3. The Church of our Lady, in the Lieb- 
frauen Berg, was built in the 14th century. A I 
sculpture over the principal entrance represent- 



DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 165 

ing the adoration of the Magi, is a fine specimen 
of German sculpture. Inside the church is a 
picture attributed to Martin Schoen. 

4. The Chapel of the ancient Palace of the 
Knights of the Teutonic Order, was restored a 
few years ago. 

There are also several churches and chapels 
where divine service is no longer performed : 
amongst them are the chapels of Saalhof, St. 
Michael, the churches of the Order of St. John,, 
of the Dominicans, of the Carmelites, which are 
now warehouses ; and the church of St. Nicholas, 
on the south side of the Roemer Berg, with a 
handsome octagon tower, transformed into a gra- 
nary. 

The Jews have a Synagogue in the Juden 
Gasse : and to the north of the town is an ex- 
tensive Cemetery, which was laid out in 1827, 
and occupies a charming situation. 

The following are the most remarkable build- 
ings : — 1. The Roemer or Town House, on the 
west side of the Roemer Berg, is a very irregu- 
lar edifice, consisting of a number of private 
buildings, which the Corporation has successively 
bought and united together. The great hall has 
been erected more than four hundred years. In 
the hall of the Emperors, where the newly crown- 
ed monarch dined, are portraits of all the Em- 
perors of Germany, from Conrad I., with the ex- 
ception of the last, for whom there was no room. 
The old hall for conferences at the time of the 
elections is now appropriated to the sittings of 



166 DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 



the Senate. Amongst the archives of the town 
is the celebrated Golden Bull, the oldest consti- 
tution of the empire, which was published by 
the Emperor Charles IV. in 1356. 

2. The Braunfels near the Liebfrauen Berg, i 
The Exchange is held in the court of this build- 
ing every day from noon till one. During the 
fair it presents a long row of richly-furnished 
shops. It was at this place that the Emperor 
Maximilian opened, in 1495, the Imperial Cham- j 
ber, the seat of which was afterwards transferred 
to Spire, and thence to Wetzlar. 

3. The Palace Taxis, in the Gross Eschenhei- 
mer Gasse, was erected about 1730, from designs 
by the Italian architect De Opera. It is a large 
building adorned with sculpture and painting, in 
the style of that period. It is now the residence 
of the Austrian ambassador, the president of the 
Germanic Diet, which holds its sittings in one 
of the halls of this palace. 

4. The Arsenal is situated in the large street 
called the Zeil. The upper part of it is now 
used as a prison. 

5. The Barracks, situated near the river, and 
at the west end of the town, were formerly a 
convent of Carmelites. The old cloister, in one 
of the courts, presents some frescoes executed in 
the beginning of the 16th century. 

6. The Palace of the Knights of the Teuto- 
nic Order is situated at Sachsenhausen. It be- 
longs to ihe Emperor of Austria, but is quite 
deserted. 



DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 167 



As constructions of the middle age, we may 
notice the building called the Stone House, in the 
Market Place, that which is used as a linen ware- 
house (Leinwandhaus), and that called Furste- 
neck. The house on the Zeil, which formerly 
belonged to M. de Schweizer, is an elegant mo- 
dern building. 

The House designated by letter F, No. 74, in 
the street Gross- Hirschgraben, was the birth- 
place of the poet Goethe. 

The charitable institutions are: — 1. The Hos- 
pital of the Holy Ghost, on the river side, near 
the Cathedral. —2. The Hospital of Senkenberg, 
connected with the Academy of Medicine, and 
founded in 1763 by Dr. Senkenberg. It is situ- 
ated on the north side of the town near the Es- 
chenheimer Gate. With this hospital are united 
the funds given by the senator Broenner for the 
maintenance of six old men who are no longer 
able to earn their own bread. — 3. The Hospital 
for Foreigners, with which is connected an esta- 
blishment for the epileptic. — 4. The Orphan 
House, in the Seiler Strasse. — 5. The Charity 
House, founded since the Restoration. — 6. The 
Rothschild Hospital, at the corner of the Reche- 
ney Garden, for the reception of poor and sick 
Jews. 

Besides these various public benevolent esta- 
blishments, Frankfort possesses a great number 
of institutions which render pecuniary assistance 
to the indigent, but have no buildings connected 
with them. 



168 



DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 



Amongst the institutions for the promotion of 
the Arts and Sciences may be mentioned, — 

1. The various public schools, particularly the 
Gymnasium, which is intended to prepare young 
gentlemen for the higher branches of study ; 
then the Norman School, the School of St. Ca- 
therine, that of the White Ladies, the Catholic 
School for boys, and that for girls, and the Jews' 
School. 

2. The Public Library, situated on the river 
side, at the east end of Frankfort, is a handsome 
stone building erected in 1825, from designs by 
M. Hess. The library consists of fifty thousand 
volumes ; it comprises a considerable number of 
rare editions, and a very complete collection of 
works on the history of Germany. There are also 
some Egyptian, Greek, Roman, and German an- 
tiquities. The whole is open to the public on 
Tuesdays and Thursdays, from eleven to twelve, 
and on Wednesdays and Fridays, from two till 
four. 

3. The Academy of Medicine, of Senkenberg, 
was founded and endowed in 1763, by Dr. Sen- 
kenberg. It possesses a collection of medical 
works, a botanic garden, and an anatomical hall, 
in which lectures are delivered gratuitously. 

4. The Society of Senkenberg for the study of 
natural history, was connected with the preced- 
ing institution in 1817. In a building adjoining 
the Senkenberg Hospital are deposited the col- 
lections of the society, consisting of the various 
productions of the three kingdoms of nature. 



DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 



109 



Amongst them are a giraffe, or camelopardalis ; 
a hippopotamus, and a large collection of butter- 
flies. The public are admitted to view the col- 
lections on Wednesdays from two to four, and on 
Friday from eleven to one. Lectures are also de- 
livered here. 

5. The Society of the Physical Sciences was 
founded in 1824, for promoting the study of na- 
tural philosophy and chemistry. 

6. The Polytechnic Society for the advance- 
ment of the useful arts and sciences connected 
with them, was founded in 1816. 

7. The Literary Cabinet, in the Rossmarkt, 
and the Casino in the same building, are institu- 
tions where persons meet to read the newspapers 
and periodical works, play at billiards, &c. Stran- 
gers can be introduced by a member. 

8. The Museum, in the English Hotel, was 
established for the exhibition of works of art, the 
delivery of lectures on literary subjects, and the 
performance of select pieces of music. The sit- 
tings are held every other Friday evening during 
the winter, Strangers may be introduced. 

9. The Staedel Academy of Painting, in the 
Rossmarkt, was founded in 1816, for the benefit 
of the inhabitants of Frankfort, by the will of the 
late J. F. Staedel, an eminent merchant. It pos- 
sesses casts of the bass-reliefs of the Parthenon, 
and of the Temple of Apollo of Phigalia, and nu- 
merous pictures of the old German and Flemish 
schools, among which may be seen specimens by 
John Holbein the elder, Philip UfFenbach, Ruys- 

Q 



170 DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 

dael, &c. One of the rooms is entirely appro- 
priated to engravings, which are changed every j 
fortnight. The whole number of engravings 
amounts to thirty thousand, of which eighteen | 
hundred are the works of Albert Durer. The ' 
rooms are open to the public on Sundays from I 
ten till one ; on Tuesdays and Thursdays, from 
three to six, and during the fairs every day except 
Saturday, from ten till one. 

10. The principal private collections of works 
of art are, — M. Bethmann's Museum, in which are 
numerous casts from the antique, and a very fine 
statue of Ariadne, by Dannecker ; M. Passavant's 
collection of pictures and drawings by modern | 
artists ; and M. Schneider's collection of draw- j 
ings by the German artists who were at Rome in 
1818. Messrs. Brentano, Wilmans, G. Finger, : 
and Prehm, have collections of pictures by the 
old masters. 

11. The Theatre, in the Comodien Platz, has j 
been built about half a century. Opera, tragedy, j 
and comedy are all performed here. The theatre \ 
is open every evening except Monday and Friday. | 
This theatre has an excellent orchestra, as well j 
as good singers and actors. 

12. The Society of St. Cecilia consists of a 
number of amateurs, who meet together for the 
performance of sacred music. They occasionally 
give public concerts, which are well attended. 

Frankfort contains four Freemasons' Lodges ; 

v P 

the Union, Socrates, Charles, and the Rising Sun. J 



DESCRIPTION OF Fit A N K FORT. 171 

i There are numerous private societies to which the 
members may introduce their friends, 

The Vauxhall is situated within the town. It 
is illuminated in the evening, and is much fre- 
quented. 

The principal articles of trade at Frankfort are 
wines, English merchandize, silks, wools, leather, 
and timber ; and the chief manufactures snuff, 
cards, tapestry, carpets, and oil cloth. Printing 
and bookselling employ a number of persons ; 
and an extensive banking and commission busi- 
ness is carried on here. The two fairs, which are 
always well attended, contribute greatly to the 
commercial prosperity of the town. 

Hotels of the first class.— The English Hotel, 
in the Rossmarkt ; the Paris Hotel, in the Parade 
Platz, not far from the Post and the Theatre ; 
the Roman Emperor, in the Zeil ; the Russian 
Hotel, formerly the Schweizer Palace, in the Zeil ; 
the Swan and the Weidenbusch, both near the 
Comodien Platz; and the Weidenhof, in the ZeiJ. 

Hotels of the second class. — The Three Crowns ; 
the Landesberg ; the Lion ; the Court of Nassau ; 
the Horse ; the Court of Augsburg ; the Court of 
Brabant ; the Town of Darmstadt, of Kreuznach, 
of Cassel, of Friedberg ; the Mont Tonnerre; the 
Barley-Mow ; the Green Tree ; the Linden Tree ; 
the Mulberry Tree ; the King of Prussia; the 
Grapes. 

The Diligence or Eil-waggon office is at the 
corner of the Parade Platz. 
The Post Office is in the Zeil. 



172 DESCRIPTION OF FRAN KFOItT. 



Environs. — The whole town, as already men- P a 
tioned, is surrounded by public walks, which ]:: 
occupy the site of the ancient fortifications. Out- ^ 
side of them, near the Friedberg Gate, is a mo- ^ 
nument, erected in honour of the Hessians who I ^ 
were killed at the taking of Frankfort, in 1792. | 

Beyond these promenades are innumerable ^ 
kitchen-gardens, which supply the town with ^ 
vegetables, and many country houses surrounded aD 
by pleasure grounds. 

The places worth seeing at a greater distance ; on 
from Frankfort are: — L The Farm of Riedhof. — i 
2. That of Sandhof.— S. The House called Fors- 4 
thaus, where there is always a great deal of com- k 
pany, particularly on Sundays. — 4. Oberrard. — 1 tk 
5, The little town of Offenbach, which has a very I F. 
cheerful appearance, and is remarkable for the a 
superb bathing-house belonging to Metzler, the j k< 
banker; for the establishment of Kirtsen and ! tr 
Dykj where very beautiful carriages are made; I 
and for several other manufactories. — 6. The 1 
height called Ginnheimerhohe, and the mountain ! 
of Roderberg, whence there are some very fine j 
prospects. — 7. The Field of Battle near Bergen, j 
and the River Nidda.— 8. The bath of WUhelms- 1 
bad, with the beautiful gardens which sur- f 
round it. 

Travellers may make a very interesting excur- 
sion from Frankfort to the mountains of Taunus, ' ] 
which extend from the town of Friedberg, in the ) 
district of Wetterau, to Wiesbaden, and from the 
Rheingau as far as Obcrlafuistein, forming two 



DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 



1 73 



parallel chains, united by other mountains of an 
inferior rank. A branch leading from one of 
these chains reaches the river Ems. More than 
thirty fountains of mineral water spring from 
these mountains. 

In the environs of Frankfort are seen two 
other very high mountains, which surpass all 
those above mentioned : these are the Feldberg 
and the Altkonig, which rise two thousand feet 
above the level of the Maine. Those who have 
only a few days to spare for this excursion, 
should take the road through Rodelheim, where 
they will see some pretty country-houses with 
beautiful gardens ; and through Soden, where 
there is a salt-pit and three bathing-houses. 
From this place they may proceed to Kronenberg, 
a small town situated at the foot of Mount Alt- 
konig, in the midst of chestnut and other fruit 
trees. Here they will see an old ruined castle, 
and several other monuments of ancient times. 
From Kronenberg the traveller should pay a visit 
to the ruins of Falkenstein, whence there is a 
view of more than seventy villages, as well as of 
a part of the Rheingau. In the vicinity are the 
four picturesque valleys of Fischbach, Lorsbach, 
Fokenhausen, and Bremthal. The village of Epp- 
stein, with two ruinous castles, and a fountain of 
mineral water, is situated in the centre of these 
valleys. The Altkonig is very difficult of ascent, 
but the traveller will be amply repaid for his trou- 
ble by the magnificent prospect which he will 
Q 3 



174 DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT. 

enjoy from its summit. In the environs of this 

mountain are situated the ancient fort of K 'dnig- I 
stein, the town of Hombourg Vor der Hbhe, with 
some fine gardens and Roman monuments, the 

old castle of Saalburg, built by Drusus, and at I 

a short distance from it, the remains of a Roman [ 

bath. By the side of the Altkbnig rises the / 
Feldberg, two thousand six hundred feet above 
the level of the sea. The view from the top of 

this mountain includes a space of one hundred * 

and fifty leagues. The most distant objects seen i 

from it are the mountain of Inselberg near Gotha, f 

the Mercury near Baden, the Donnon, which 3 

forms part of the Vosges, the heights in the en- ) 

virons of the Moselle, and the seven mountains il k 

near Bonn, the chain of mountains which cross | 

Westphalia, the mountain called Missner in } 

Lower Hesse, and the Forest of Habichtswald S 

near Cassel. \ 

Packet-boats arrive daily at Frankfort, from } 

Mayence, Hanau, and Offenbach. These boats \ 

return the same day. There is also a diligence ) 

which leaves Frankfort every day at eleven o'clock \ 

in the morning, and reaches Mayence at four in \ 

the afternoon. The fare of the latter is a crown h 

of Brabant (two florins, forty-two kreuzers). [l 

Another diligence goes and returns from Frank- \ 

fort to Wiesbaden, from the 1st of May to the $ 

1st of October. Return carriages to Darmstadt, ' 

Mayence, Wiesbaden, and other places in the f 

vicinity, may generally be met with near the f 
principal hotels. 



DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT, 175 

It is eight leagues from Frankfort to Mayence : 
the road leading to it passes through Hochs, a 
small town on the right bank of the Nidda, Had- 
dersheim, where there is a posthouse, and Weil- 
bach* In the latter place there is a spring of 
water, which contains more sulphur than those 
of Aix-la-Chapelle and of Nenndorf, and which 
possesses medicinal qualities. 

Hochheim is two leagues from Weilbach, and 
is situated on a height whence there is a very 
fine view of the Maine as far as Mayence. The 
wine made there is considered one of the best 
Rhenish wines. There are a great number of 
vineyards in the district of Hochheim, but the 
best wines are produced from the vines which 
grow on a hill behind the old deanery-house, 
in a space of eight acres. Every acre contains 
four thousand one hundred vines, each of which 
is considered to be worth a ducat. In a good 
season this hill produces twelve large butts of 
wine, each containing seven and a half ohm, (a 
German measure). One of these butts is fre- 
quently sold for fifteen hundred florins or more, 
even while the wine is new. This hill is entirely 
exposed to the rays of the sun. and is sheltered 
from the north wind by the town. A rivulet 
which flows around it serves to preserve moisture 
in the dry season, and in the rainy season pre- 
vents the vines from being inundated, by receiv- 
ing the superabundant waters through numerous 
wooden pipes placed there in order to drain the 
land. 



176 DESCRIPTION OF FRANKFORT, 



Mayence is nearly two leagues beyond Hoch- 
heim : the whole of the road leading to it is 
bordered with vineyards and fields planted with 
trees. 

The town of Cassel, situated on the right bank 
of the Rhine, is well fortified, and communicates 
with Mayence by a bridge composed of fifty-six 
boats. It is 766 paces in length. 

Mayence. See page 137. 



177 



V.-THE RHEINGAU; 

OR VALLEY OF THE RHINE FROM MAYENCE 
TO BINGEN. 

Travellers will perhaps find it both con- 
venient and agreeable to take their passage from 
Mayence to Cologne, in the steam-boat which 
descends the Rhine ; but by this mode of con- 
veyance they will lose the opportunity of seeing 
many charming valleys, as well as the numerous 
and magnificent prospects from the tops of the 
mountains and the old castles on the banks of 
this river. In order more fully to enjoy the 
varied and beautiful scenery with which this part 
of the country abounds, it would be better for a 
small party to hire a private boat, and to land at 
some of the most remarkable places. Those who 
wish to examine minutely all that is interesting 
in the valley of the Rhine between Mayence and 
Bonn, ought to devote six or seven days to it, 
and afterwards return by land, passing through 
the bathing places of the Taunus. 

The voyage fro>m Mayence to Bingen is one of 
the most delightful in all Germany. If the tra- 
veller prefer walking, he should take the right 
bank. The river presents three principal points 
of view. The first is between the islands near 
Biberich ; the second at Giese, near Huttenheim ; 



178 



V. THE RHEINGAU, OR 



and the third is that of Gkssenheim and Rudes- [l> 
heim. In order, however, to obtain a view of 1 
the whole of the Rheingau, the tourist should * 
proceed by the high road from Mayence to Nie- ^ 
deringelheim. Near the latter place is a monu- 
ment erected in honour of M. Jeanbon St. An- 
dre, who was prefect under the French govern- 
ment, and exerted himself in the construction of 
this road. 

Neideri/tgeUieim is two leagues from Mayence } 
on the road to Bingen. The hill near it com- 1 & 
mands a beautiful view, embracing the whole of 
the Rheingau between Ellfield and Bingen. Se- ■ 
veral authors have mentioned Ingelheim as the ( w 
birthplace of Charlemagne. It is certain that' " 
he built a superb stone palace here, between the ' ia 
years 768 and 7 74, and that he frequently resid- ; 9 
ed in it. One hundred pillars, brought from ; 1! 
Rome and Ravenna, decorated the outside of ' 
this palace. Several general diets and some [: 
councils were held there, and Ingelheim has been 
the theatre of more than one interesting scene r 
in the history of Germany. Frederick I. repair- ! 
ed the palace, and Charles IV. was the last em- 
peror who resided in it. Frederick also built a 
new chapel here, in which he placed some ca- [■ 
nons of the royal chapter of Prague ; but Ingel- 
heim was soon afterwards given by him in pledge i: 
to the house of the electors of the palatinate, 
who retained possession of it till within a short < 
time. In the war between Frederick the Victo- ! 
rious and the Archbishop Adolphus of Mayence, 



VALLEY OF THE RHINE. 



179 



the palace was burnt by troops of the latter. 
The ruins which still remain, bear the name of 
Saal, and they occupy a considerable space on 
the western side of the town. 

Inns. The Green Tree ; the Post. 

If the traveller embarks at Mayence, he will 
pass two pretty islands, the Petersaue and the 
Ingelheimer Aue. About a league below May- 
ence is Biberich, the residence of the Prince of 
Nassau- Usingen, which was built by Prince 
George Augustus, at the beginning of the 
18th century. This chateau is particularly 
well situated on the banks of the river ; and 
contains handsome and well-finished apartments. 
The dining-room is a rotunda adorned with pil- 
lars of Limburg marble, Behind the chateau 
extends a vast and beautiful garden, by which 
it is united to a delightful and very fertile part 
of the country. In this garden stands the old 
chateau of Mosbach, but it is not allowed to be 
opened to the public in general. Some valua- 
ble monuments are preserved there, collected 
from various places, and bearing different dates, 
but most of them have been brought from the 
convent of Eberbach, which has been seques- 
trated. 

Near Biberich is a sort of rampart with a deep 
ditch, extending from the bank of the river to 
the forest of Landswald, which passes round the 
Rheingau, and terminates near Lorrich. From 
a neighbouring height the traveller will enjoy a 
magnificent prospect ; at his feet is seen a de- 



180 



V„ THE RHEINGAU OR, 



lightful country interspersed with fruit trees, and i to 
having the appearance of a beautiful garden j of 
bordered by the chateau of Biberich, and the sil- 
very waters of the Rhine ; on the other side of riv 
the river appears the village of Mombach, crown- | & 
ed with a small wood of fir-trees, and beyond it j od 
is Budenheim. The blue mountains of the Rhein- j oe 
gau raise their lofty summits on the right bank of I cfl 
this river, which resembles a majestic lake, whose cs 
waters reflect the villages of Schierstein, Ellfield, oi 
and WallufT ; three places situated on its banks, j f 
In the distance are seen the mountains of Johan- \ I 
nisberg and Rochusberg, and at the farthest ex- li 
tremity of the horizon may be perceived the Bin- j II 
gerloch. The prospect is not less charming on i I 
the side of Mayence, Cassel, and Hochheim. ! t 
Behind the heights of Erbenheim on a hill, stand 
the ruins of the castle of So?menherg 9 formerly , 
the residence of the Emperor Adolphus of Nas- ! 
sau. ( 

When the traveller has passed the islands near 
Biberich, he will enjoy a fine view of the Rhein- : 
gau. The heights which border the Rhine are 
divided into terraces planted with vineyards, 
forming in the distance a sort of semicircle. 

The next place the traveller comes to is Schier- 
stein, where there is a beautiful garden which 
formerly belonged to the family of Holzhausen. 
Schierstein might with great propriety be called 
the orchard of the Rheingau, as it produces an ; 
immense quantity of fruit, some of which is sent |) 



VALLEY OF THE RHINE. 



181 



to a great distance. In its vicinity are the ruins 
of the castle of Frauemtein. 

After passing Schierstein, the traveller will ar- 
rive at Nieder Walluf, which is justly termed the 
gate of the Rheingau. At this village he will see, 
on the banks of the river, a pretty country-house 
belonging to the Count of Stadion. The whole 
country between this place and Lorchhausen is 
called the Rheingau, which, under the dominion 
of the Franks, formed a distinct district, and was 
given by Louis, the last Carlovingian king, to the 
Archbishop of Mayence. Between Nieder Wal- 
luf and Budenheim, on the opposite side of the 
Rhine, is a ferry. This route from Mayence to 
Budenheim is half a league shorter than that 
through Biberich. 

El/feld, the principal place in the Rheingau, 
and remarkable for its Gothic towers, is situated 
half a league from Neider Walluf. There is a 
fine range of country-houses on the banks of the 
river, the most remarkable of which belongs to the 
Counts of Elz. There is also a handsome and 
spacious inn on the banks of the river, called the 
Rose. The boatmen who live here are famous 
for their skill in the navigation of the Rhine. 
Elifeld was formerly called Alta Villa, and was 
raised to the rank of a town in the 14th century, 
by Louis of Bavaria. It was originally a palace, 
which Otho I. gave to the Church of Mayence; 
and was the usual residence of the bishops, and 
of several noble families in the 14th and 15th 

R 



182 



V. THE RHEINGAU, OR 



centuries. Henry Bechtermunz, a pupil and 
companion of Guttemberg, established a printing 
press here, in the 15th century. Behind Ell- •< 
feld, in a pleasant valley, is Kidrich, where 
there is a country-house near a hill called Rit- i to 
tersruhe, which commands a fine prospect on the 
side towards Mayence, Behind Kidrich are the $ 
ruins of Scharfejutein, which existed in the 12th 
century. It belonged to the Chapter of May- a 
ence, to which the nobles of Scharfen stein were - 
tributary. A branch of this family afterwards 4 
possessed it, but as they were very unruly vas- P 
sals, the Archbishops erected the castle of Neu- In 
enhus or Neuhaus in the vicinity. The ruins be- H 
long to the Counts of Bassenheim. 

Still higher in the wood is the town of Ranen- 
thai, which produces excellent wines. There was i 
formerly a convent of the same name. 

Below Ellfeld is the farm of Dreiserhof, and ! k 
not far from it the village of Erbach, where there h 
are several^villas, one of which belongs to the n 
Burgrave of Westfalen. The Church and the 
tombs of the nobles of Alendorf, whose castle 
was in the vicinity, are worthy of notice. Inn. i 
The Grapes. From this place the traveller may ! 
make two excursions, which will occupy but lit- j 
tie time. One is to visit Niederingelheim, situ- ! 
ated near the left bank of the Rhine, a descrip- i 
tion of which has been given before ; and the 
other to see the ancient abbey of Erbach or Eber- \ 
bach, in a wood not far from Ellfeld. This ab- 
bey was founded in 1135, by the Archbishop 



VALLEY OF THE RHINE. 



183 



Adalbert of Mayence. It is now used partly as 
a house of correction, and partly as a madhouse. 
A coach road passes over the site of the church, 
and the monuments for which it was remarkable 
have disappeared. 

Three-quarters of a league from Ellfeld is the 
village of Hattenheim. The traveller will pass 
three islands, called Langenwertheraue, R/ieinaue, 
and Sandaue. Hattenheim has several villas. A 
delicious wine, called Markebrunner, is made at 
this place. It is grown on the Strahlenberg, 
and derives its name from a spring by which this 
beautiful country is watered. Having passed 
Hattenheim, we perceive the chateau of Rei- 
chartshausen, belonging to Count Schoenborn. 

Half a league lower is the town of Oestrich, 
which is likewise adorned with country-seats. 
The little river Selz falls into the Rhine opposite 
to Oestrich. Half a league distant, on the 
banks of the river, are Mittelheim and Winkel 
or IVeinzell (vini cella.) On a height above 
Oestrich are the village and vineyard of Hall- 
garten, and lower, is the old convent of Gottes- 
thai. Winkel and Lorch are undoubtedly of 
Roman origin, and hence are derived the local 
names of Heide?igass, Heidenloch, (street, and 
hole of the Pagans). The Romans had wine 
stores for their troops here. At the extremity of 
Winkel are the ruins of the village of Bartho- 
lomce, some houses, and a mill ; and a little far- 
ther Klause, an old convent, which has been a 
long time deserted. 



184 



V. THE RHEINGAU, OR 



Still higher, near a small chapel, the road 
turns to the right to Vollraths, belonging to the 
lords of Greifenklau, and to the left, to Johan- 
nisherg. 

The Joheami&berg, (Mount St. John,) or Bis- 
chofsberg, which is divided into a sort of ter- 
race, rises with a gentle slope, and overlooks a 
delightful country. From this mountain may be 
seen the whole extent of the Rheingau, with its 
numberless towns and villages, its country-seats, 
its convents, its mountains,, and its ancient cha- 
teaux ; including also a view of the river with 
its scattered islands. 

The famous priory of Johannisberg was founded 
in 1109, by Ruthard II. Archbishop of Mayence ; 
and Count Rodolphus or Rheinhof, of the Rhein- 
gau, enriched it by very considerable donations. 
Archbishop Adalbent converted the priory into 
an abbey in 1 ISO ; it was dissolved in 1567, the 
cloister having been burnt fifteen years before by 
Albert of Brancleburg. The Swedes destroyed 
the remaining buildings during the thirty years' 
war. In 1641, Johannisberg was sold for 30,000 
florins to Hubert de Bleymann, treasurer of the 
empire, whose heirs resigned it, in 1716, to the 
Abbey of Fulde. The building then arose from 
its ruins, and the cultivation of vines was in- 
creased. The wines made at this place are the 
dearest, and are considered the best of the Rhe- 
nish wines. The vineyards occupy a space of 
sixty-three acres, and produce annually twenty- 
five hogsheads, each containing 1300 bottles, 



VALLEY OF THE RHINE. 



185 



usually worth 20 to 24,000 florins ; but amount- 
ing in good years to double that sum, exclusive 
of other wines of inferior quality. The wines are 
all of the Risling kind, and the best grow nearest 
to the house. The vintages take place a fort- 
night later than in other parts of the Rheingau. 
The grapes which fall to the ground in conse- 
quence of this delay, are collected together by 
forks made for this purpose. In 1809, the wine 
of the first quality was sold at four florins a bot- 
tle, and the inferior at three florins and \ \ florin. 
The wines of 1779, 1788, and 1805, are sold as 
high as twelve florins a bottle. In 1816, this 
estate was given to Prince Metternich by the 
Emperor of Austria. 

A little distance from Johannisberg formerly 
stood the convent of Gottesthal. It was sold by 
auction a few years back, and no traces of it are 
now visible. 

Half a league from the Johannisberg is Gets* 
senheim, where there are some pretty country- 
seats belonging to the Counts of Ingelheim and 
Degenfeld, M. Gontard, &c. The church con 
tains the tomb of the Elector John Philip of 
Schoenborn, a man of excellent character. The 
fanatic Barthelemy Holzhausen, and the cele- 
brated Leibnitz, - were once in his service. This 
tomb was executed by the sculptor Rauchmuller. 

The Rhine near Geissenheim is 2000 feet in 
breadth. 

Inns, The Crown, and the Swan. 

r 3 



186 V. THE RIIEINGAU, OR 

The Rotkenberg, above Geissenheim, commands ji 
a fine view. 

Between Geissenheim and Rudesheim stands \ 
Eubingen, formerly a convent. It is now an J 
arsenal and an infirmary. When Albert of Aus- 1 
tria made war against the Elector, and approached \ 
Bingen, the nuns of Ruppertsberg, near Bingen, i 
took refuge in this convent ; where they preserved, [ 
until within' a few years, several MS. letters of t 
St. Hildegard, the first Abbess of Ptuppertsberg; [ 
also her ring, bearing this inscription, I suffer t 
willingly, and a prayer-book ornamented with r 
pictures, which she was accustomed to use, and 
which is said to have been given her by St. Ber- 
nard. The greater part of the building was taken 
dawn in 1816, and the remainder turned into an ' 
arsenal. 

Instead of passing by Eubingen on quitting 
Geissenheim, the traveller would do better to ! 
take the road leading to the wood of Niederxcall, 
which is situated on the top of a mountain, be- \ 
hind Rudesheim. A guide will lead him through !i 
a pleasant wood to a small temple, whence there |1 
is a magnificent prospect. On one side are seen t 
the numerous islands watered by the Rhine, and \ 
on the other appears a deep and black-looking 
gulf overhung by rocks, surmounted by old cas- )? 
ties in ruins, over which the river has forced a i 
passage. In the distance is seen the Nah, min- 
gling its waters with those of the Rhine. On the \ 
left bank stands the town of Bingen, at the foot 



VALLEY OF THE RHINE. 



187 



of a mountain on which are the ruins of the 
chateau of Klopp ; at a short distance rises the 
Rochusberg (Mount St. Roch), and on the right, 
the mountain of Ruppertsberg with the ruins of 
an old convent. In the river beneath is the Mouse 
Tower. From the temple the tourist should pro- 
ceed to Rossel, at the farthest extremity of the 
Niederwald, which commands a fine view. Re- 
freshment must be taken from Geissenheim or 
Rudesheim, as none can be procured at the fo- 
rester's, which is the only house in the Nieder- 
wald. 

If the tourist comes from the Niederwald through 
Geissenheim, he will visit Eubingen, in his way to 
Rudesheim. If he prefers going by water, he 
will enjoy, as he approaches Rudesheim, one of 
the finest views of the Rhine. This town extends 
itself along the banks of the river, and at the ex- 
tremity of it is seen the ancient chateau of the 
Knights of Bromser. The Rochusberg is situated 
on the left, and opposite Rudesheim appears the 
town of Bingen. The whole scene is closed in 
by rocks, which risemear the mouth of the Nah, 
and on each side of the Rhine, forming a gulf 
in which the river appears to be swallowed up. 
Those who wish to make an excursion to the 
wood of Niederwald from Rudesheim, may go and 
return very conveniently in about three hours. 

The vineyards situated on the mountain behind 
Rudesheim, produce very good wine. The first 
vines were planted there in the 11th century, 



188 



V. THE RHEINGAUj OR 



under the direction of Sigefroi, Archbishop of 
Mayence. 

Rudesheim is remarkable for its ancient castles, 
the most remarkable of which is the Nieder Burg, 
or Fort Ingelhebn, close to the Rhine. This was 
a supreme court in the time of Charlemagne ; it 
afterwards belonged to the Archbishopric of May- 
ence, and in the 13th century became the pro- 
perty of the Rudesheim family. After the ex- 
tinction of this family, it passed through various 
hands to Count Metternich, who sold it to Count 
Ingelheim. Its present possessor has restored it 
in so perfect a manner, that it might be mistaken 
for the original building. It affords a curious 
picture of ancient times. 

Close to the Nieder Burg is the Obere. or Boo- 
senburg, consisting of two buildings of different 
periods ; and near the market-place is a third fort, 
called the Vorderburg, only one tower of which 
remains. 

The fourth castle is the Bromserburg, which is 
situated in the highest part of the town. It be- 
longs to the Counts of Coudenhofen. These ruins 
have a very picturesque effect. The knights' 
hall, the bed-room, and the chapel, still remain. 
Here also are shown various antiquities connected 
with the history of the Bromser family. 

The Saalhof in the market-place of Rudesheim 
is supposed to have been a royal palace. Rude- 
sheim carries on a large trade in wine, and its 
boatmen are famous for their skill. Many rafts 
are constructed here. 



VALLEY OF THE RHINE. 



189 



Inns. The Angel, the Hotel of Darmstadt, 
the Swan, the Lion, the Three Crowns, the Swim- 
mer. 

On the left bank of the Rhine, opposite Rude- 
sheim, is the village of Kempt en, picturesquely 
situated at the foot of the Rochusberg. 

A league from Kempten stands the small 
town of 

BINGEN, 

Containing 4300 inhabitants. On the right is 
the mountain of Rudesheim, whose summit ap- 
pears lost in clouds, and near it stands the old 
castle of Ehrcnfels, entirely surrounded by rocks. 
Behind Bingen runs a chain of mountains covered 
with wood, and beneath them is the Bingerloch. 
More than one old castle in ruins appears sus- 
pended from a steep rock ; and in the distance 
amongst some trees may be perceived the remains 
of the church or chapel of St. Clement. The 
river first rushes with impetuosity towards this 
chain of black mountains ; but afterwards turns 
suddenly to the north, breaking against the rocks 
in the environs of the tower of Hatto, or Mause- 
thurm, (rats' tower). 

It is very evident that the ridge of mountains 
near Bingen was formerly obstructed by rocks, 
which opposed a sort of dyke to the waters of the 
Rhine, and gave rise to the formation of an ex- 
tensive lake between Ladenburg, Spire, Mann- 
heim, Mayence, Grossgerau, and Pfungstadt. 
This mass of water having risen over the dyke, fell 



190 V. THE RHEINGAU, OR 

with impetuosity to the bottom of the precipice, 
and it was not till after many ages that the river 
effected a free passage, the rocks being then 
broken by the violence of the current, or more 
probably, in consequence of one of those grand 
revolutions of nature which sometimes take place. 
Charlemagne enlarged the bed of the Rhine, but 
there was scarcely yet sufficient room for mode- 
rate sized boats to pass, The Elector Sigismund 
of Mayence rendered the passage less dangerous, 
and made it navigable for large boats, in the 13th 
century. The navigation was also improved by 
the French and Swedes in the 17th century, and 
still more by the merchants of Frankfort. 

Bingen carries on considerable trade between 
Mayence and Cologne. The goods exported 
consist principally of corn, wine, salt, pearl-ash, 
tartar, clover, rape-oil, vinegar, and brandy. 
The wines are most of them made in the district 
of Bingen, and in the environs of the Nah, and ' 
they are sent both up and down the river, but 
particularly to Frankfort, whence they are con- 
veyed by land to the northern countries. The 
wine of Scharlach is most celebrated among the 
wines of Bingen. 

The garden belonging to M. Faber, the notary, 
is well worth seeing ; the ruins of the old cha- 
teau of Klopp, or Castrum of Drusus, which 
overlooks the town, is situated within its walls. 
The prospect from its summit is magnificent ; 
the town, which is situated immediately under it, 
has the appearance of a grand panorama, and 



VALLEY OF THE RHINE. 



191 



opposite to it is the mountain of Rudesheim, with 
the Niederwald. The eye may also follow the 
whole course of the Rhine from the farthest ex- 
tremity of the horizon to the Bingerloch, and in 
another direction may overlook the valley of the 
Nah, whence there is also a distant view of 
Mont Tonnerre. Tradition asserts that the Em- 
peror Henry IV. was confined here for a long 
time. This castle was formerly considered im- 
pregnable, but was destroyed by the French in 
1689. 

The Bingen of the Romans was nearer than 
the present town to the bridge of Drusus. One 
of the town-gates and the baptismal fonts of 
the ancient collegiate church are remains of the 
time of the Carlovingians. In this church Bar- 
tholomew of Holzhausen was buried. 

Inns. The Post House, and the White Horse i 
the latter is situated near the river, and travellers 
who arrive by the packet-boats usually stop to 



192 



EXCURSION 

FROM BIN GEN, UP THE VALLEY OF THE NAH, 
AS FAR AS KREUZNACH. 

The mountain of Rochusberg, half a league 
from Bin gen, situated at the entrance of the val- 
ley of the Nah, commands a view of the most 
beautiful part of the valley, as well as of the 
hills planted with vineyards, which extend from 
Niederingelheim, as far as the environs of the 
town of Kreuznach. On its summit is the old 
chapel of St. Roch, containing relics of St. Ro- 
bert, and a picture given by the celebrated 
Goethe. From the mountain of Rahl near the 
village of Munster, which is a league and a half 
from Bingen, there is also a fine view of the 
country commonly called the Gau. The catho- 
lic church in the village of Munster is remark- 
able for a small tower of singular construction. 

The wines of Munster, Sarmsheim, Laubenheim, 
and Langelonsheim, four villages on the road to : 
Kreuznach, are considered the most delicious 
of all those which are produced in the valley of 't 
the Nah. 

Half a league beyond Kreuznach, and three 
leagues from Bingen, are the salt-works of Karl- 
shalle and Theodorshalle. The first, which is si- 



VALLEY OF THE NAH. 



193 



tuated on the right bank of the Nah, and is the 
least considerable, was established in 1729 : and 
the second, which is also on the right bank, in 
1743. The net produce of these salt-works was 
computed, during the French government, at 
150,000 francs. This salt is very sharp, and 
has a bitter taste. 

Kreuznach, the birthplace of the painter Mul- 
ler, who is also celebrated as a poet, is situated 
three leagues from Bingen, and has 6500 inha- 
bitants. It is supposed that the Romans once 
inhabited this country. There is a wall still to 
be seen here called Heidenmauer (pagan's wall). 
The Carlovingian kings erected a palace at 
Kreuznach. On the east of the salt-work of 
Karlshalle, between Kreuznach and Hockenheim, 
at the foot of the mountain, is the place called 
Pfalzsprwig, where, in 1603, the Elector Frede- 
rick IV., when on horseback, leaped over the 
trench, which was twenty-seven feet wide. 

The tan yards of this place are famous for lea- 
ther used in soleing shoes. There were formerly 
several extensive manufactories for snufT, and for 
sugar made from beet-root. 

There are several ancient monuments at Kreuz- 
nach. The most remarkable are : — 1. The cas- 
tram Romanam, which stood formerly in the cen- 
tre of an island, so that the river then passed by 
the side of the place called Hasenrech. The 
foundations are still visible. That part of the 
principal wall of this fort, which is situated to- 
wards the East, bears evident marks of Roman 
s 



194 EXCURSION FROM BINGEN 

construction. The castrum was of an oblong j 1 
form ; the shortest side was one thousand feet 1 
long, and the longest several feet more. It ex- ) 
isted till the year 893, when it was destroyed by f 
the Normans. — -2. The Kauzenberg, a fort which S 
was very celebrated in the thirty years' war, and f 
was blown up by the French in 1689. It over- 
looked the town, and was delightfully situated. Pi 
It afterwards became the property of Baron Re- 1 
cum, who planted vines over all the southern 
side of the mountain, the northern part of which f 
was covered with trees, so that the environs of : 
this old chateau, already highly favoured by na- F 
ture, has become a most beautiful spot. The I 
garden is open to the public. — 3. The ancient f 
Palace of the Prince of Simmern. It formerly oc- ] 
cupied nearly the whole of the northern part of 
the town, but there is nothing now remaining f 
except the ruins, which bear scarcely any resem- ' 
blance to the original building, which, like the 
Kauzenberg, was burnt by the French. — 4. The \ 
great Church founded by Robert Pipan in 1400, I 
of which nothing remains but the choir, the rest ; 
of the building having been burnt by the French 
in 1689. It now serves as a warehouse for straw 
and wood. 

At a short distance from Kreuznach, near the 
village of Sprenglingen, is a monument erected in 
honour of Michael Mort, a brave inhabitant of 
Kreuznach, who perished in 1279, whilst fighting 
for his prince, John of Sponheim. 

In the environs of Kreuznach stands also the 



UT THE VALLEY OF THE N AH, 



195 



old strong chateau of Ebemburg, the former resi- 
dence of Francis of Sickengen, where his friend 
Ulrich of Hutten found an asylum during his 
proscription, and where he composed several of 
his writings, in which he lashed the vices of his 
age, particularly the corruptions of the clergy. 

The river Nah crosses the town, and forms an 
island at this place, which extends on both sides 
of the bridge. The part below the bridge is co- 
vered with a little wood of tufted trees, crossed 
by shady walks, and interspersed with small 
grass-plots, forming altogether a charming pro- 
menade, The proprietor of this place keeps an 
inn, and an assembly room. In that part of the 
island which is situated above the bridge there 
are two other assembly-rooms, where there is 
dancing every Sunday during the summer. Out- 
side the town there is another agreeable and re- 
tired promenade. 

A gentle ascent leads to the top of the Rhein- 
grafcnstein, the environs of which are charming. 
Travellers usually ascend this mountain at an 
early hour, in order to enjoy a view of the rising 
sun. The Gans, which is one of the highest 
points of the Rheingrafenstein, and the ruins of 
the chateau of the ancient Counts of Stein, are 
the best situations for observing this extraordinary 
spectacle. 

The spectator cannot but admire the boldness 
of the architect who constructed this chateau, its 
foundations being laid on the projection of a rock 
of porphyry, whose sides are almost perpendicular, 



196 



EXCURSION FROM BINGEN 



and arches being formed in every part where 
there were small clefts in the rock. 

In order to return to Kreuznach, the traveller 
may either take the road through the valley of 
Alsenz, or that which leads to the salt-works of 
Munster. 

Those who are fond of mineralogy should visit 
the coal-mines on the borders of the Alsenz, near 
the place where it falls into the Nah. On this 
road, near the village of Altenbamburg^ two leagues 
from Kreuznach, stands the old castle of Cro- 
nenburg, from the top of which, in the spring of 
the year, may be seen a perfect English garden. 
Near Alsenz commence the mines of pit-coal, 
which are very productive, and which extend 
beyond Meissenheim. A league from Alsenz, on j 
the mountain of Landsberg, near Moschel, is a 
mine of quicksilver. 

Before the traveller leaves Meissenheim, he 
may make an excursion to Idar and Oberstein, i 
two places celebrated for polishing agates, which 
are usually sold at the fairs of Frankfort and 
Leipsic. The environs of these places bear some 
resemblance to the scenery of Switzerland. Ober- 
stein is suspended from a mountain formed by a 
single mass of rock. The church may be said to 
be built in the interior of this rock, and its walls 
on the inside are covered with moss. On the 
most elevated part of the mountain are the ruins 
of an old chateau. 

In order to return to Kreuznach, the traveller, 
on leaving Meissenheim, may take the road 



UP THE VALLEY OF THE NAII. 197 

through Glanodernheim, by the mountain of Disi- 
bodenberg, on which are the ruins of a castle ; 
thence through Monzingen, the favourite prome- 
nade of Gotz the poet ; through Burgspo?ikeim 9 
not far from the convent of Sponkeim, where the 
Abbe Trithemius composed his works, and where 
he formed a valuable and extensive library ; and 
afterwards through the valley of Burgsponheim 
as far as Weinsheim, whence he may proceed to 
Kreuznach ; and if he wishes to take a last look 
at the town, he may have a fine view of it from 
the top of the Kauzenberg, or from the mountain 
of Martinsberg, close to the gate of Bingen. 

The valley of Stromberg, which extends as far 
as the forge of M. Utsch, a league and a quarter 
from Stromberg, abounds with wild and pictu- 
resque scenery. The road leading to it from 
Kreuznach is very pleasant, and passes through 
Sckweppenhavsen, where there is a paper-mill. 
Before the traveller reaches Stromberg, which is 
three leagues from Kreuznach, he sees in the 
distance the ruins of the old castles of Fust and 
Goldenfels* Stromberg is famous for leather used 
in soleing shoes. Three-quarters of a league 
beyond Stromberg is the forge of M. Sadler, and 
half a league further that of M. Utsch. By the 
side of a pretty meadow watered by the Giilden- 
bach, rise several high mountains, beneath which 
are seen various blocks of grey marble. At this 
place the traveller would do well to terminate his 
excursion, in order to avoid the wild and desert 
country of the Hundsriick. 

s 3 



198 

VI. — FROM BINGEN TO COBLENTZ. 

BY BACHARACII, ST. GOAR, AND BOPPART. 

On returning to Bingen, the traveller should 
visit the mountain of Ruppertsberg, situated on 
the other side of the Nah. In 1148, Lady Hil- 
degard of Sponheira, famous for her piety, c 
founded a convent on this mountain, the ruins of : 
which may still be seen : at this place she wrote 
her prophecies ; and here also Bartholomew of 
Holzhausen afterwards composed his visions. He 
was visited by Charles II., to whom he predicted 
his restoration to the English throne. He also t 
predicted, but with less success, the re-establish- 1 
ment of the Roman Catholic religion in England. [ 
The Gothic chapel and the corridors of the con- | 
vent, which are situated between rocks, have a 
picturesque appearance. The fountain which 
Hildegard is said to have excavated with her own 
hands, is still visible. At the foot of the Rup- q 
pertsberg is a Prussian custom house. 

Continuing the voyage down the Rhine from |? 
Bingen, immediately below this town, the tra- 
veller passes near the Mausethurm, (Mouse Tower) \ 
the erection of which is absurdly attributed to 
Hatto II. Archbishop of Mayence. The glaring 
anachronism is sufficient to refute this opinion. ? 
Hatto died in 970, and this tower was not built 
till the 13th century, when the Archbishops of 
Mayence levied a toll on vessels passing up and 



VI. FROM BINGEN TO COBLENTZ. 199 



down the river. It is most probable, therefore, 
that this tower was erected as a toll-house. It 
also served as a lighthouse, and in later times 
was mounted with guns, then called monsserie; 
and thus, from Mous or Mousenthurm, has been 
derived its present name. During the last cen- 
tury it has been in ruins. 

The current of water begins to be very strong 
in the environs of this tower, and at some distance 
from it there are rocks which appear above the 
water, when the Rhine is low, and against which 
boats sometimes run. 

About 300 yards below the Mausethurm is the 
Bingertoch, or Hole of Bingen, a very improper 
name, for it is only an opening made through a 
ridge of rocks which crosses the bed of the river. 
This undertaking was executed by means of gun- 
powder, towards the end of the 17th century, at 
the expense of some Frankfort timber merchants, 
in order that large boats and rafts might pass 
down the river. There is but little danger in 
passing by the Bingerloch with a pilot who knows 
his business ; and if the water is high, the spot is 
scarcely visible. 

As soon as the traveller has passed the Bin- 
gerloch, he sees before him the village of As- 
mannshausen, and on the left bank the ruins of the 
castles of Vautsberg or Vogtsberg, Reichenstein, 
Rheinstein, and a little lower, the old castle of 
Falkenburg. 

An excellent red wine is made at Asmanns- 
hausen, but it has no good inn. Behind the vil- 



VI. FROM 



BINGEN 



lage is a small footpath, leading to the hamlet of , 
Aalhausen, and to the suppressed convent of the I 
Capuchins of Northgottes, which is situated farther 
in the wood. 

Below Asmannshausen, likewise, are some re- ; 
mains of ancient baths, said to be of Roman i 
origin. The river makes a great bend near this 
place ; and the left bank, on which the village of 
Dreyeckshausen or Trechtlinghausen is situated, j 
assumes the form of a peninsula. A quarter of a > 
league above this village are the ruins of the \ 
church or chapel of St. Clement. The mountains 
are a short distance from the banks of the river. 
On one of them are the ruins of the castle of \ 
Sonneck, which was destroyed by Rodolph I. in ) 
1282, and not far from it, the village of Nieder- 
heimbach. Above are the ruins of Heimburg. 

On the right bank is the market-town of \ 
Lorch, which forms the boundary of the Rhein- I 
gau. It formerly had a castle built by Archbi- 
shop Henry III. in 1348, only the ruins of which 
are now visible. Opposite Lorch is a fertile j 
island. Above this place, are the ruins of Fur- [ 
stcneck, and beyond them is the mountain of V 
Kedrich, or Devil's Ladder, the ascent of which is \ 
very steep. Behind Lorrich is the valley of Wis- V 
perthal, whence a N. E. wind issues called Wis- \ 
perwind, which is a singular phenomenon. 

Lorch is one of the most ancient towns of the 
Rheingau. It was here that the first red wine on 
the Rhine was made. The vicinity of Rheinberg 
compelled the inhabitants to arm and build a 



TO COBLENTZ. 



201 



castle, which gave its name to several families. 
The Gilgen of Lorch were the most celebrated 
possessors of it. The Church is an ancient edifice. 

Proceeding along the valley of Wisperthal for 
a quarter of a league, as far as the Chapel of the 
Cross, the traveller enters the valley of Sauerthal, 
which derives its name from some sour springs 
there. On returning to Lorch he may ascend 
to the ruins of the Castle of Nollingen, which oc- 
cupy the site of a Roman fort. The view is ex- 
tensive. 

Lorchhausen, a small village a little lower down 
the river, was formerly the boundary of the 
Lower Rheingau. The ruins of Sarec, on the Bis- 
chofsberg above the, village, are the remains of 
the fortress which defended the frontier. 

As far as this place, the Rhine runs in a direc- 
tion from East to West, so that the vines on the 
right bank are continually exposed to the sun. 
The North and East winds blow against the 
mountains on the left bank, which on this ac- 
count are almost uncultivated. The Rheingau is 
divided, with respect to the produce of wine, into 
upper and lower cantons, which include the vil- 
lages situated on the heights and on the banks 
of the river. The strongest wines are those pro- 
duced on the heights : the middling lands pro- 
duce the most healthy, and the low lands those 
which are not fit to drink for a considerable time. 

Amongst the numerous wines of the Rhine, 
those of Laubenheim, Bischeim, and Asmann- 
shausen, are considered the most pleasant ; those 



202 VI. FROM BINGEN 

of Hochheim, Johannisberg, and Geissenheim, 
have the highest flavour ; and those of Nierstein, 
Markebrunn, and Rudesheim, are the strongest 
and warmest. [ 

The mountains below Lorch are not so steep, 
and the banks are more level and better culti- 
vated. 

The environs of the village of Niederheimbach : 
on the left bank are beautiful, and at a distance 
may be seen the ruins of the old castles of 
Furstenberg and Stakleck. The river forms seve- 
ral bends, and resembles a lake, terminated im 
front by the small town of Bacharach. 

Near the hamlet of Rheindiebach, a quarter of 
a league above Bacharach, is a remarkable echo 
at the entrance of the valley. Amongst the ruins 
of the castle of Furstenberg is a garden, whence 
there is a fine prospect. The vines near these 
ruins produce excellent red and white wine. 

Bacharach (Bacchi ara) with 1700 inhabitants, 
is situated three leagues from Bingen, on the 
banks of the Rhine, and at the foot of a very 
steep mountain. The walls of the town formerly 
extended as far as the old castle of Stahleck, 
but part of the space is now planted with vines. 
Two historical facts bear testimony to the excel- 
lence of the wine of Bacharach, namely, that 
Pope Pius II. (better known under the name 
of Eneas Sylvius,) caused a tun to be sent an- 
nually to Rome ; and that the Emperor Wenzei 
granted independence to the town of Nuremberg 
for four butts of this wine. 



TO COBLENTZ. 



203 



Bacharach produces several articles, in which 
a considerable trade is carried on ; particularly 
wine, iron in bars, old iron, starch, and beer. It 
is the natal place of the painters Kiigelgen. 

Inns. The Posthouse, the Wheel, the Angel, 
the Crown. 

If the traveller wishes to taste some of the best 
Rhenish wines at Bacharach, or at any other 
place, he must not expect to find them at the 
inns, where the wine is generally of an inferior 
quality. He had better apply to private persons, 
who have large stores of wine ; and the hospita- 
lity which is every where displayed, offers a sure 
pledge of his obtaining the desired object. 

The castle of Stahleck, the ruins only of which 
are now visible, had formerly its own lords, by 
whom the convent of Chumbd, near Simmern, 
was founded. This castle was pillaged during 
the thirty years' war, and rebuilt by the Elector 
Charles Louis in 1666, but soon after blown up 
by the French, in the war respecting the Orleans' 
succession. Below the castle of Stahleck are 
the ruins of the church of St. Werner, a beautiful 
monument of Gothic architecture, erected at a 
time when that art had attained the highest per- 
fection. 

On the south side, between Bacharach and 
Rheindiebach, are the ruins of the Williamite 
convent of FurstentltaL 

Immediately below the town is an island in 
the Rhine, which includes about thirty acres of 
ground : between this island and the right bank 



204 



VI. FROM BINGEK 



is the stone which, even in old writings, bore 
the name of Ara Bacchi. The appearance of 
this stone above the water, augurs a good vin- 
tage, as it is only visible in very fine weather, 
when the waters are low. 

The Elector Charles Theodore established a 
great road, which commences just beyond Ba- 
ch arach, and passes through part of the valley 
of Steeg : by this road merchandize, which has 
been conveyed on the Rhine, is sent to Simmern 
and to the Moselle. In the valley just mentioned 
are the ruins of the old castle of Stalberg, very 
near the village of Steeg. The ancient counts of 
the Palatinate were accustomed to reside occa- 
sionally in this castle, as well as in that of Fiirs- 
tenberg, which is situated in the valley of Die- 
bach. 

In the Rhine, below Bacharach, is the Wildes 
Gefahrt, a kind of whirlpool, formed by the 
river in turning round some rocks and small 
heaps of sand. The danger may be avoided in 
calm weather, by suffering the boat to glide with 
the current, which will direct it safely. The H 
passage is only rendered dangerous by sudden 
gusts of wind, when the boats run the risk of 
being driven against the rocks, near the right 
bank. 

After having passed this place, the river as- P 
sumes the appearance of a lake, in the centra of 
which may be seen, situated on a rock, the castle 
of Pfalz, formerly called Pfalzgrafenstein. A 
small staircase forms the ascent to this building. 



TO COBLENTZ. 205 

Travellers are generally shown, in one of the 
towers of the castle, a room where it is said the 
wives of the counts of the Palatinate came to be 
confined. It has likewise several dungeons, used 
as state prisons, and a remarkably deep well, 
which is cut out of the rock, and does not receive 
its water from the Rhine. The Pfalz was no 
doubt erected originally as a toll-house. It now 
belongs to the Duke of Nassau. 

It was at this place that the Prussian and 
Russian army, under the orders of Blucher, 
passed the Rhine, January 1, 1814. 

Opposite the Pfalz, and on the right bank of 
the river, half a league from Bacharach, is the 
smalltown of Caub, containing 1350 inhabitants. 
It formerly belonged to the counts of Nurin- 
gen, whose family became extinct during the 
13th century ; but has since 1802 been attached 
to Nassau. The vessels at this place are nu- 
merous, and the inhabitants carry on a consi- 
derable trade in wine and slates. The wine 
made at Caub is ranked amongst the best Rhen- 
ish wines. 

The castle of Gutenfels is situated on a moun- 
tain near Caub. The ascent to it is by a number 
of small flights of steps. This castle was almost 
entirely demolished in 1807, so that only the 
outer walls remain. In ancient writings, it is al- 
ways called Cub, and derived its name of Gu- 
tenfels (Rock of Guda,) from the Countess of 
Guda, whose great beauty rendered her a favour- 
rite of the Emperor Richard. The Langrave 

T 



206 



VI. FROM BINGEN 



William of Hesse Cassel besieged it, without 
success, in 1504; and near the custom-house 
may be seen a stone, on which this event is re- 
corded in verse. On the projection of a rock is 
a sort of alcove, whence there is a fine view of 
the river which flows beneath. From this point 
Gustavus Adolphus gave his orders during the 
thirty years' war, to attack the Spaniards, who 
had taken up a position opposite. 

In?2s. The Town of Heidelberg, and the Green 
Forest. 

At the foot of some mountains above Caub 
formerly stood the castle of Rheinberg, behind 
the village of Ramsel, which is situated on the I 
banks of the Wisper. One league south-east 1 
of the town, in the valley of Sauerthal, is the 
castle of Sauerburg, situated at the top of a 
mountain, on which is a small village. In 1692, 
this castle became the property of Francis of 
Sickingen, whose family still retain possession 
of it. The valley of Sauerthal derives its name 
from a spring of mineral water, which is a very 
pleasant beverage. There was another castle 
in the environs, called Htppenheft, but it has 
been converted into a farm. 

The left bank of the Rhine beyond Caub 
abounds with picturesque views, formed by 
groups of rocks and mountains. A large quan- 
tity of slates is found in the environs. The 
traveller next approaches the town of Obencesel, 
which is situated on the left bank, where the 
Rhine rushes against the rock of Rummelstein. 



TO COBLENTZ. 



207 



The ruins of the old castles of Schonberg, or 
Scho?riberg, crown the summit of a mountain on 
this side Oberwesel. 

Oberwesel is one league and a quarter from 
Bacharach, and contains 2500 inhabitants. It 
exhibits scarcely any trace of its ancient beauty. 
Its large Gothic church, built by Archbishop 
Baldwin, of Treves, stands in an isolated situa- 
tion on the banks of the river. In the church of 
the Minorites is a picture, painted by Diepen- 
beck, which represents Christ's descent from the 
cross. The chapel, which is seen near the wall 
of the town, not far from the Rhine, was erected 
to the memory of a boy, named Werner, who 
was taken from his relations by the Jews, and 
put to death by them, after suffering numerous 
torments. Oberwesel was formerly an imperial 
town ; but the Emperor Henry VII. made it a 
present to his brother Baldwin, Archbishop of 
Treves. 

An excellent wine, called Engenholler, is made 
in the environs of Oberwesel; and on both sides 
the river below the town, there are several 
places where salmon is caught in great abun- 
dance. 

Inn. The Angel. 

The traveller should not omit to visit the ruins 
of the castle of Schonberg. It was the birth- 
place of the heads of a noble family, which ex- 
isted as far back as the time of Charlemagne,, 
and about the 11th century changed its name 
from Belmont to Schonberg. The traveller will 



208 



IV. FROM BINGEN 



no doubt recollect the celebrated Frederick of 
Schonberg, or Schomberg, who first developed 
his warlike talents under the command of Henry 
and William II. of Orange ; afterwards obtained 
several victories over the Spaniards ; reinstated 
on the throne the House of Braganza ; defeated 
in England the last hopes of the Stuarts ; and 
finally died at the battle of the Boyne, in 1690. 

The mountain of Mart ins berg likewise merits I 
observation. It is adorned with a pretty house, - 
delightfully situated, belonging to the Catholic 
vicar. 

The traveller will perceive, as he recedes from 
Oberwesel, that the mountains on both sides the 
river gradually approach each other, and the ( 
course of the river is as narrow and deep as many 
parts of the Upper Rhine. The surrounding 
country, which is extremely wild and rocky, was 
the place where the pious hermit Goar establish- 
ed his residence, at a very distant period, and 
disseminated Christianity amongst the fishermen 
on the banks of the Rhine. 

At a short distance further is an enormous 
rock on the right bank, called Lurleyberg, where 
there is a remarkable echo, which repeats a word 
five times. The best position to hear this echo ' 
is the middle of the river, or a promontory on 
the left bank ; the report of a gun, or the sound 
of a hunting-horn, produces an astonishing ef- 
fect. 

A league from Oberwesel is St. Goar, a small 
town on the left bank of the Rhine, with 106o 



TO COBLENTZ. 



209 



inhabitants. A short distance above this town 
the river assumes the appearance of a lake, en- 
closed by rocks. The Rhine bends on the right 
side, and rushes against a partially concealed 
ridge of rocks, forming a terrible whirlpool, called 
the Bank, which is extremely dangerous for boats, 
but still more so for rafts. The current of the 
river directs itself towards a tower on the right 
bank, near St. Goarshausen, against which the 
rafts may dash and break, if proper precautions 
have not been taken. The means to avoid the 
danger are very simple. A large trunk of a tree, 
called Hund, (Dog,) is attached to the left side 
of the raft ; and at a place near the whirlpool it 
is loosened, in such a manner as only to remain 
connected with the prow. This trunk is soon 
swallowed up by the whirlpool, which draws it 
with so much force, that the raft is gradually 
attracted to the left bank, and thus kept in the 
proper direction. 

Below the bank there is another whirlpool, 
called Gewirr. There is a tradition, that this 
was formerly connected with the Bingerloch, by 
a subterranean channel ; because the remains of 
boats, which had been ingulphed by the latter, 
appeared on the surface of the first. 

On leaving this narrow and dull defile, the 
country suddenly changes, and the traveller en- 
ters a delightful valley, where the heights are 
crowned with thick woods, or ornamented with 
gardens and vineyards. 

St, Goar extends along the shore, and on a 
t 3 



210 



VI. FROM BINGEN 



very high rock behind it may be seen the ruins 
of the ancient fort of Rheinfels. This place had 
formerly a convent of monks, called Marterburg; 
but Count Thierry of Katzenellenbogen, sur- • 
named the Rich, transformed this peaceable re- 
sidence into a strong castle, and compelled boats 
descending the Rhine to pay a toll. Sixty of the 1 
towns on the Rhine opposed this act of violence, 
and sent troops to the blockade of the castle, 
which they besieged for fifteen months without 
success. They then formed a league with seve- 
ral other towns and princes, and thence origin- * 
ated the first confederation of the Rhine, which 
succeeded in destroying the greater part of the j 
small castles, whose lords carried on open rob- 
bery. This confederation, however, afterwards 
fell in the unequal struggle of the territorial 
lords against the independence of the towns. 
The fort of Rheinfels was defended in 1692 by " 
the brave Colonel Gorz, against Tallard, who 
terminated the contest by setting fire to his camp 
and retiring. During the Revolution, it surren- 
dered to the French on the first summons, and 
was afterwards blown up by them. At St. Goar 
barracks have been erected, and the inhabitants 
of the town are very industrious. 

Inns. The Lily, the Posthouse, and the Sa- 
vage. 

Opposite St. Goar is the village of St. Goars- 
haiisen, which forms the angle of a bay made 5 
by the Rhine. At the top of a mountain behind 
this village is the old castle of Katz, which was 



TO COBLENTZ. 211 

destroyed by the French in 1807. The moun- 
tain of Petersberg produces an excellent red 
wine, which is considered equal to that of As- 
mannshausen. There is a good inn at the Post- 
house. 

As the traveller advances, the banks of the 
I river become more level, and cultivation is more 
| frequently visible. On the right, not far from 
I St. Goarshausen, there are several delightful 
valleys. If the traveller wish to ascend the . 
mountain of Lurley, he must disembark a quar- 
I ter of a league below the village. 

Half a league from St. Goar is the village of 
W erlau, at which is a lead and silver mine. 
A quarter of a league further on the right 
! bank is TVelmich, with a Gothic tower. The 
environs are picturesque, and behind the village 
i are the ruins of the old castle of Thurmberg, like- 
wise called Maus. Fertile gardens and rich 
meadows extend from Welmich along the banks 
of the river. In the distance, on the left bank, 
appear the town of St. Goar and fort of Rhein- 
fels. 

Below Welmich the Rhine directs itself to- 
wards the North, forming a beautiful bay, sur- 
rounded by heights. 

Opposite to an island in the river is Hirze- 
nach, where may be seen an ancient priory, which 
formerly belonged to the Abbey of Siegburg, 
surrounded by the huts of vinedressers. 

On this side Hirzenach is a wild valley, called 
Ehrenthal, where there are mines of silver, cop- 



212 



VI. FROM B INGE N* 



per, and lead. In almost every part of the eoun- fj 
try, which extends from Wesel to Hirzenach, f 
are found large quantities of basaltes, slates, !] 
lime, marble, and other minerals. 

Near Hirzenach the Rhine takes an eastern 
direction. On the right is the village of Kester, | 
with an old church fallen into ruins ; and oppo- P 
site to it is an enormous rock, covered on the : 
bottom with vines, and crowned with trees 
closely planted. 

The mountains on the left are at some dis- - 
tance from the bank, and at the end of a delight- p 
ful valley is the small village of W tiler. Not I 
far from this place is Sahig, where a great num- f 
ber of cherries are gathered, most of which are 
sent to Holland. On the right are the ruins of i 
the old castles of Liebenstein and Sternfels, which jl 
form the summit of a height planted with vines. |i 
These ruins are generally called the Brothers, f 
and present a fine couy-oVozil when seen from the \ 
left bank. 

Behind the mountains on which these castles 
stand there is a picturesque valley, in which is 
situated Bornhofen, a village with an abbey of i 
Capuchins, which was suppressed in 1813. The U 
church built by Count Bromser of Rudesheim 
still remains, but is not so much frequented as a 
pilgrimage as it was formerly. An avenue of i 
walnut-trees leads from the abbey to the small £ 
village of Kamp, where the Romans formerly had 
an intrenched camp. 

On leaving the gulf, near Kamp, the traveller 



TO COBLENTZ. 



213 



perceives a sudden change in the form of the 
country ; both banks of the river form extensive 
plains around some ancient convents,, and on 
the left is the town of Boppart, with its old 
towers. 

Bop pa it t is generally considered one of the 
fifty forts established by Drusus. The kings 
of the Franks afterwards built a palace there, the 
ruins of which may still be seen ; whence a rivu- 
let, that falls into the Rhine near this place, has 
derived the name of Konigsbach (royal rivulet). 
During the middle age, Boppart became an im- 
perial city. It has an hospital and several con- 
vents. The convent of nuns of Marienberg is si- 
tuated above the hospital ; it has been transformed 
into a cotton factory of considerable importance. 
The town procures from the neighbouring forests 
a large quantity of wood, which is made into 
charcoal, and sent to Bendorf, where it is used in 
the foundries. It likewise carries on a consider- 
able trade in wines and tobacco-pipes. 

Inns. The Posthouse, and the Bear. 

Near Boppart, the Rhine forms a vast lake, 
surrounded by heights partly planted with vines* 
At the foot of these heights commences a de- 
lightful plain, at the end of which is the village 
of Kamp. In front are the villages of Niederberg 
and Hilzcn ; and at the end of a wood, on the 
height, is the farm of Jacobsberg, which formerly 
belonged to the Jesuits. 

The principal road runs along the left bank of 
the Rhine ; but if the traveller is going on foot, 



214 



VI. FROM BINGEN 



he will do well to take the road from Boppart to 
Coblentz, through the wood, which is more plea- 
sant, and shorter. 

Below Boppart, the Rhine makes one of the 
most considerable bends in its whole course ; and 
beyond the village of Felsel appears to retro- 
grade, by suddenly turning towards the east. 
This, however, is only an illusion, as the moun- 
tain of Boppart soon forces it to resume its for- 
mer direction. The mountains no longer present 
the picturesque forms which the traveller has 
seen before, most of them being quite round or ; 
very flat. On the top of one of these mountains ! 
there is a neat pleasure-house, called JAebanech, 
belonging to M. de Schenck. The environs of 
Osterspay, situated at the foot of this mountain, I 
resemble a rich orchard. A short distance to 
the left, the Rhine bends, and waters the ground 
contiguous to the villages of Peterspay, Mit- 
telspay, and Niederspay. 

A little lower, on the right bank, is the mineral 
spring of D ink/wider , which has been known for h 
300 years, but appears to have been forgotten 
during the last century. In 1802 it was re- 
established, and has been gradually increasing in i 
reputation. The water resembles the Spa and 
Pyrmont waters in quality, but has a very bitter 
tasie. H 

Half a league low T er than Dinkholder is the . 
small town of Braubach, containing 1250 inha- : 
bitants. Close to it is the old castle of Philips- 
burg. On the top of a rock behind Braubach, is the 



TO COBLENTZ. 215 

, strong castle of Markusburg. This castle de- 
j rives its name from the Evangelist Mark, and was 
| built by the Landgrave John, surnamed the War- 
> like. It now belongs to Nassau, as well as the 
i town of Braubach. 

I The valley, at the mouth of which Braubach 

| is situated, contains silver, lead, and copper. 

| On the left bank of the Rhine, opposite to 

, IVIarkusburg, is the small village of Br?y> sur- 

' rounded by fruit-trees. 

On the left bank also, but lower down the river, 

! is the. small town of Rhense, with 1780 inhabi- 
tants. About 400 paces from this small town 
formerly stood the Kdnigstuhl (royal seat), the 
site of which is now marked by four small stones. 

! At this building the four electors of the Rhine 
often assembled, to deliberate respecting the in- 
terests of Germany, and here a general peace 
was concluded. At this place, likewise, the elec- 
tion and deposition of several emperors was de- 
termined on. This royal seat was a plain unor- 
namented octagon building. It rested on nine 
pillars, eight of which formed a circle, and the 
ninth was in the centre. It was ascended by a 
staircase of fourteen steps, placed on the south 
side, and had on the top seven stone seats for the 
seven electors ; its diameter was twenty-four feet, 
and its height seventeen. Its form, as well as 
the arms represented on it, the colours of which 
were partly effaced, gave it a very singular 
appearance. It was erected on this spot, be- 
cause it was a place where the territories of the 



216 



VI. FROM BIN GEN 



four electors met, and to which each of them 
could repair at a very short notice. From the 
top of this building four small towns might be 
seen at one view: Lahn stein, on the territory of 
the Elector of Mayence ; Kapellen, on that of 
the Elector of Treves ; Rhense, on the territory 
of the Elector of Cologne ; and Braubach, on 
that of the Elector of the Palatinate. 

The town of Rhense was obliged to keep the 1 
Konigstuhl in good repair, in consideration of 
which it enjoyed several privileges. This seat 
was destroyed during the Revolution, probably - 
because its name was disliked. 

On the left bank, opposite to Rhense, is a 
small chapel, where the deposition of the Empe- 
ror Venceslas took place in 1400, after a delibe- 
ration on the Konigstuhl. 

Not far from this place is the town of Oberlahn- 
steiti, which contains 1500 inhabitants, and 
belongs to Nassau. The old castle is now the 
residence of the bailiff. The terrace and windows 
of this castle command a fine view. It sustained 
a siege during the terrible war between Adolphus 
of Nassau and Thierry of Isenburg. The writings 
by which the electors, John of Mayence, Frede- 
rick of Cologne, Werner of Treves, and Robert 
of the Palatinate, made known the deposition of 
the Emperor Venceslas, and the election of 
Robert to the empire, were dated from Lahnstein. 
In the vicinity is a mineral spring. 

Near this place the Rhine is very wide. On 
the left bank is the hamlet of Krippe, and a little 



TO COBLENTZ. 217 

I 

lower the farm and village of Kapelle/i, situated 
on the side of a rock, behind which are the ruins 
of the old castle of Stolzenfels, at the top of a 
mountain. These ruins are worthy of being vi- 
sited, as there is a fine prospect from them. A 

j guide may easily be procured in the village. 

The traveller next reaches the mouth of the 

| Lahn, which issues from a defile of mountains. 
The Lahn rises in the forest of Wisterwald, and, 

1 whilst making numerous bends, crosses the terri- 
tories belonging to the Princes of Hesse and Nas- 

! sau. It brings into the Rhine a large quantity 

: of minerals, and the island formed at its mouth 
was most probably made by the settlement of 

I slates carried there by the river. This river like- 

! wise considerably assists in the trade of the Rhine, 
as iron, corn, flour, fruits, and lime, are brought 
there in great quantities, for which it returns 
charcoal, salt, and wine. 

On the right bank of the Lahn, and just at its 
mouth, is the small town of Nieder Lahnstein with 
1800 inhabitants. The Church at a short dis- 
tance from it, dedicated to St. John, is now in 
ruins. There is a tolerable inn. 

On the hill behind Nieder Lahnstein are the 
ruins of the old castle of Lahneck ; and on a still 
higher hill is a chapel called Alter Heiligen, being 
dedicated to All Saints. 

The river turns to the right, and passes along 
the side of an extensive and fertile island, called 
Oberworth, or Magdalenenworth ; where a convent 
of nuns for the nobility was founded in 1143, but 
u 



218 



VI. FROM BIN GEN 



was afterwards secularized, in consequence of 
the cession of the left bank of the Rhine. The 
traveller afterwards passes by the side of the vil- 
lage of Horcheim, where an excellent red wine, 
similar to that of Bleichart, is made. 

About a league distant is Ffaffendorf, sur- 1 
rounded by vines and orchards, and near PfafTen- 
dorf is a stone bench, shaded by three poplars, 
whence there is a fine view of Coblentz and Ehren- 
breitstein. The garden formerly belonging to M. 
the Canon Umbscheidan, is worthy of observation. 
PfafTendorf has two good inns, the Swan, and the 
Court of Nassau, to which the inhabitants of the 
environs often repair in parties of pleasure. 

Approaching Coblentz, the tourist perceives on 
the right bank the formidable citadel of Fort \ 
William or Ehrenbreii stein, and on the left, Fort 
Alexander, formerly a Carthusian convent. j 

J 

COBLENTZ, 

Which is eighteen leagues from Mayence, was 
formerly the residence of the Electors of Treves ; 
and, whilst under the French dominion, the chief 
place of the department of the Rhine and Mo- 
selle. It is situated at an angle, which these two 

O 7 

rivers form at their confluence, whence it origi-: 
nally derived its name, conjluens. It contains 1 
about 11,000 inhabitants. The Romans con-i 
structed a strong castle in the place called Alter 
Hqf 9 which became a royal palace when subject j 
to the Franks. In the middle age, the town was" 
divided into three quarters, the limits of whicfi 



TO COBLENTZ. 



219 



were determined by the course of the rivers. The 
quarter comprised between the left bank of the 
Rhine and the right bank of the Moselle, was 
the most considerable : on the other side of the 
Moselle was situated Little Coblentz, or Litzel 
Coblentz, no traces of which are now visible ; and 
on the right bank of the Rhine, at the foot of the 
fort of Ehrenbreitstein, was the third quarter, 
usually called Thai Ehrenbreitstein, which still 
exists. 

The kings of the Franks, as well as the em- 
perors up to the time of Louis of Bavaria, occa- 
sionally resided with their court at this place. 
The bishops of Treves lived alternately at Treves 
and at the fort of Ehrenbreitstein till 1280, when 
Henry of Vinstingen erected the castle, situated 
near the bridge over the Moselle. The bridge 
over the Moselle, by which Little Coblentz com- 
municated with the principal town, and which 
now forms a communication between Coblentz 
and the Petersberg, or Fort Francis, was built by 
Bishop Baldwin, by means of indulgences. It 
is 500 paces in length, and consists of fourteen 
arches. 

The new castle near the Rhine, and that pait of 
the town called Clemensstadt, which is connected 
with it, were erected by Clement, the last Elector 
of Treves, between 1779 and 1787. This castle 
is built in the ancient style ; the guardhouses, 
&c. form a semicircle in front of the principal 
building. The interior was formerly arranged 
with great magnificence and taste. The church, 



220 



VI. FROM BINGEN 



which forms part of this castle, is remarkable for 
its simplicity. The French transformed this ele- 
gant palace, whence there is a fine view over the 1 
surrounding country, into barracks, and it has I 
often been made use of as a depot for prisoners of I 
war, which has given it a miserable appearance. \ 
The most remarkable buildings at Coblentz 1 
are,— I. In the Old Town:— 1. The Old Palace: 
of Treves, now occupied by the Government. — 2* s 
The Hotel of Metternich-Winneburg, which is 
now a court of law. — 3. The Hotel Ley en, now 
the residence of the Sub-governor. — -4. The Palace * 
Boos Waldeck, now occupied by the Chief Pre- 
sident.— 5. The Old Market of St. Florian, with 
a curious antique head at the clock. Besides ! 
these there are the Hotel Kempen on the Firming ; 
the Gymnasium in the Jesuits' Place ; and the 
Barracks on the Moselle, formerly a Dominican : 
convent. 

II. In the New Town :— 1. The Castle before 
mentioned. — 2. The Theatre.— 3. The House of 
M. d'Elz. Coblentz had formerly two large f 
chapters, three convents of monks, and two of 
nuns, and several charitable institutions. 

The public squares which deserve notice are, 
the Place d , Ar?nes ? planted with linden-trees, and jJ 
the Place Plan near the principal guardhouse. 

The most remarkable churches are, — 1. The f 
Collegiate Church of St. Castor. The spot where 
it is situated was formerly an island of the Rhine. 
Its roof is supported by Corinthian columns. A 
council composed of three kings and eleven 



! 



TO COBLENTZ. 22\ 

bishops was held here in 806. On the left side 
of the church is the tomb of St. Riza, a descen- 
dant of Louis le Debonnaire, and the picture at 
the second altar on the same side is a copy of 
Rubens's Descent from the Cross. In the choir 
are four pictures by Zick, an artist of Thai Eh- 
renbreitstein. The subjects are taken from the 
legends of St. Goar and St. Castor, and repre- 

| sent part of what took place at Coblentz in 870 
between Louis and Charles the Bald. Near the 
grand altar are the tombs of Archbishops Kuno 

j of Falkenstein, and Werner of Konigstein. — 2. 
The Church of St. Florian, was used by the 
French as a military depot, but has been appro- 
priated to the Protestants by the Prussian go- 

' vernment, and is now the Garrison Church. It 
is said to have been originally founded by the 
Empress Helen, but afterwards rebuilt. On the 
walls of this church are some pictures painted in 
fresco by Zick. It likewise contains the tombs 
of the Archbishops John IV. Count of Isenburg ; 
and John V. Count of Leyen. The remains of 
James II. Margrave of Baden were transferred in 
1 808 to Baden. The pulpit and the baptismal font 
are curiously carved by Hufschmidt. — 3. The 
Church of Notre Dame, which is situated nearly 
in the centre of the town. Its steeples, which 
are composed of several stories placed one above 
another, have a majestic effect. The choir is an- 
cient and the nave modern. 

The last elector constructed an aqueduct at 
Coblentz, by which very clear water is conveyed 
it 3 

I 



222 



VI. FROM BIN GEN 



to every part of the town. This aqueduct com- 
mences at a mountain near Metternich, and the 
canals from it pass over the bridge of the Mo- 
selle. The fountain in the new town, which is 
supplied from the same aqueduct, bears the fol- 
lowing inscription, placed there by the elector, 
Clemens Wenceslaus Elector, vicinis suis, A. 1791. 

A casino was established at Coblentz, in 1808, 
to which strangers are admitted without much 
difficulty, as well as to the reading-room. Mr. 
Holscher, a bookseller, is the proprietor. There 
is also a Musical Institution, and a Gymnasium, 
with a small but choice library containing nu- 
merous MSS. 

Coblentz is not remarkable for its manufacto- 
ries, but it has an extensive establishment for the 
manufacture of varnished tin, tea and cofTee-pots, 
candle-sticks, snuff-boxes, and other articles. 
There is also a snuff manufactory. 

The town contains several collections of curio- 
sities belonging to private persons. The most re- 
markable are, — 1. The Pictures of the Count de 
Renesse Breitenbach, together with his collec- 
tions of prints and medals. — 2. The Pictures of 
M. Dietz.— 3. Those of M. Hahn.— 4. The Col- 
lection of M. Lang the clergyman of Neuendorf. 
—5. The Collection of Painted Glass of M. Nell. 

A quarter of a league from the town, beyond 
the gate of Northor, was the ancient Chartreuse, 
situated at the top of a small hill. This building 
was sold in 1810 to M. Seidensticker of Wetzlar, 
but has been since purchased by the government, 



TO COBLENTZ. 



who have fortified this height, and given it the 
name of Fort Alexander. The height where this 
monastery stood,, and at the foot of which runs 
the great road that passes over the Hundsriick, 
was first called Marterburg; but the bones of St. 
Beatus having been conveyed there in 1017, it 
was afterwards named Beatusberg. A colony of 
Benedictines was established at this place by 
Archbishop Hiilinus in 1153, and in 1334, the 
convent was abandoned to the Carthusians, who 
kept possession of it till the cession of the left 
bank of the Rhine. 

The prospect from the spot where the church 
formerly stood is very extensive and varied. On 
the right may be seen the charming island of 
Ober worth, watered by the Rhine, and near Ka- 
pellen high mountains, the picturesque forms of 
which resemble an amphitheatre. In the distance 
is Lahnstein, with its old castle in ruins ; and 
almost out of sight appear the old towers of the 
castle of Markusburg. A delightful valley ex- 
tends to the foot of the fort of Ehrenbreitstein, 
and thence to the rocks near Andernach. In 
every direction villages and country-houses may 
be seen surrounded by well-cultivated fields ; and 
at the foot of the height, in the midst of a fertile 
country, stands Coblentz, which seems to make 
one and the same town with the village of Neu- 
endorf, situated in the vicinity. Near the spot 
commanding this beautiful view is an inn, where 
refreshment may be obtained. 

A bridge of boats, erected in 1819, connects 



224 VI. FROM BINGEN 

| 

Coblentz with Thai Ehrenbreit stein, which is si- I 
tuated on the high road to Frankfort, through 
Montabaur and Limburg, and to the bath of Ems, 
two leagues from Coblentz. The Thai or valley ! 
adjoins the mountain on which stands the fort 1 
of Ehrenbreitstein. The Romans established a i 
strong castle on this mountain in the time of the 1 
Emperor Julian, on the ruins of which Archbi- 
shop Hermann Hillinus erected the fort that was 
finished in 1160, and receives from its founder 
the name of Hermannstein. The Elector John, 
Margrave of Baden, augmented and repaired the | 
fortifications, and caused a well, which derives E 
water from the Rhine, to be cut in the rock 280 \ 
feet deep. The latter undertaking occupied three \ 
years, and it was then found necessary to proceed 
300 feet lower. ) 

On the highest part of the mountain on the \ 
south side of the fort, formerly stood a square 
tower, on the top of which was a foundry, and i 
beneath it a powder magazine. On the square, 1 
between the barracks and the arsenal, was placed I 
the famous cannon called the Griffin, which f 
weighed 10 tons, and was capable of carrying S 
balls of one hundred and sixty pounds. This \ 
tower was blown up by the French and the Griffin H 
taken to Metz, where it is said to have been de- \ 
stroyed. 

The fort of Ehrenbreitstein experienced nu- 
merous vicissitudes during the Revolution. It ■ 
was first blockaded for a month by General 
Marceau, during the first passage of the Rhine 
by the French in September 1795. It had twice 



TO COBLENTZ. 



225 



the same fate during the campaign of 1796, and 
was cannonaded from the heights of PfafTendorf 
and Arzheim. The fortifications, however, did 
not suffer much by this bombardment; but the 
small town beneath them was much damaged, 
its houses having been burnt by the shells. The 
French succeeded in gaining possession of a 
height called Nellenkopf near Arzheim ; but the 
retreat of Jourdan soon compelled them to raise 
the siege. A fourth blockade was commenced 
in 1797, after the passage effected by General 
Hoche at Neuwied, and it lasted till the peace of 
Leoben. A body of French troops suddenly pre- 
sented themselves before this fortress during the 
negociations for the peace of Rastadt, and caused 
a dreadful famine. A cat was sold for about 
two shillings and sixpence, and horseflesh at 
about one shilling per pound. Many persons 
perished for want. It was in vain that the brave 
commandant, Colonel Faber, belonging to the 
troops of the Elector of Mayence, wrote several 
times to the Congress at Rastadt in the most 
pressing terms ; a fatal policy had obtained the 
rule, the fortress was abandoned to its lot, and 
necessity constrained the commandant to capi- 
tulate on the 27th January, 1799. The French 
repaired and augmented the fortifications, but 
their demolition was commenced shortly after the 
conclusion of the peace of Luneville. The lofty 
towers, the enormous masses of rock, the mines, 
and the walls, fell with a tremendous noise, with- 
out however being succeeded by the dangerous 
crash to the vicinity which was feared. 



226 



VI. FROM BIN G EN 



Since 1816, Ehrenbreitstein has been re-forti- 
fied, and has received the name of Fort William, 
in honour of the King of Prussia. In connexion 
with the Chartreuse, or Fort Alexander and t 
the Petersberg, or Fort Francis, it will form one \ \ 
of the strongest positions in Germany. The 
Chartreuse commands the roads from Mayence ; 
and the Hiinsruck, the Petersberg those of 
Treves and Cologne, and the Ehrenbreitstein the 
Rhine and the country of Nassau. Besides the 
principal forts, there are some outworks. The 
whole are constructed from the plans of Monta- 
lembert and Carnot. 

The view from Ehrenbreitstein is superb. In 
front is the town of Coblentz, situated on the 
banks of the river, in which there are two islands, | 
each having a convent. Behind the town may be 
seen the Chartreuse, surmounting a height plant- 1 
ed with vines and fruit-trees, and in the plain 
below, more than thirty towns and villages. The \ 
fortifications can only be seen by obtaining an 
order from the commandant, and this it is now : 
difficult to procure. | 

Near Ehrenbreitstein, a monument was erected 
by the French, in commemoration of the Russian L 
Campaign in 1812, and underneath the inscrip- i 
tion was written, "Seen and approved of byl 
the Russian Commander at Coblentz, in 1814." j 

At the foot of Ehrenbreitstein, opposite the 
mouth of the Moselle, and between the Rhine , 
and the rocks, stood the castle of Philippsthal, 
the ancient residence of the Elector of Treves, 
which was built by the Elector Philip Christo- 



TO COBLENTZ. 



227 



pher, of the house of Stotern. In an old build- 
ing near it was a mint belonging to Nassau, 
which was removed to Limburg on the cession of 
this place to Prussia. The small town of Ehren- 
breitstein extends along the foot of the height 
as far as a mineral spring, at the entrance of the 
valley from which the place derives its name. 

Inns. The Post-house, or White Horse, and 
the Court of Nassau. 

In the middle of the Rhine, between Coblentz 
and Thai, there is an echo which produces a 
grand effect, particularly at night, when a hunt- 
ing-horn, or any other musical instrument, is 
sounded. 

The trade of Coblentz consists principally in 
the conveyance of merchandize up and down the 
Moselle. This river rises in the Vosges, and be- 
gins to be navigable at Metz ; thence it runs in 
a broad valley as far as Thionville, without meet- 
ing the least obstacle ; but at that place the 
valley becomes so narrow, as scarcely to leave 
room for the passage of the river, which then 
flows along the bottom of the mountains, forming 
numerous curves and angles. The navigation, 
which is already rendered very inconvenient by 
this circumstance, is still more obstructed by the 
rocks and sand-banks in the river, and by the 
badness of the roads on its banks, used for tow- 
ing. Notwithstanding all these difficulties, an 
extensive navigation is carried on. The princi- 
pal goods sent by the Moselle to the Rhine are, 
slates, fire-wood, timber, staves, charcoal, coals, 
brandy, paint, potash, salt, bark, pipes, glass, 



228 



VI. FROM BINGEN 



ragstones, and Moselle wines. The trade in 
French wines has been much diminished by the 
heavy duties paid in the Prussian territory. 

The environs of Coblentz present several inte- 
resting objects, such as the bridge over the L 
Moselle, whence there is a fine view ; and on the n 
left bank of the Moselle, between the villages of I 
Metternich and Rubenach, the field where the ] 
Prussians established their camp before the inva- 
sion of Champagne. 

On the left of the road towards Andernach is j 
the Petersberg, on which the French built Fort 
Marceau. This fortification has since been enlarg- 
ed, and has received the name of the Emperor 
Francis. It commands the mouth of the Moselle f 
and the roads of Treves and Cologne. On this 1 
height was the tomb of General Marceau, who ] 
perished near Altenkirchen, whilst attempting to 
stop the retreat of Jourdan. It was destroyed in 
1817, as injurious to the fortifications ; but a simi- 
lar monument was erected in the plain by com- 
mand of the King of Prussia. It consists of a ! 
pyramid twenty feet high, placed on a sarcopha- 
gus. An urn of black marble contains the ashes j 
of Marceau. The following inscriptions are plac- [ 
ed on the monument; — ■ j, 

Ici repose Marceau n£ a Cliartres, D6partement 
(TEure et Loire, Soldat a XVI ans, General a XXII ans. > 
II mourut en combattant pour sa patrie le dernier jour de 
Tan IV de la Rep. Franc. Qui que tu sois, ami ou enne- 
mi de ce jeune Heros, respecte ses cendres. 



L'arin6e de Sambre et Meuse, apres sa retraite de la 
Franconie, quittait la Lahn. Le General Marceau com- 



TO COBLENTZ. 229 

! mandait l'aile droite ; il £tait charge" de couvrir les Divi- 
| sions qui d6filaient sur Altenkirchen le III jour compl. 
I an IV. 



II faisait ses dispositions au sortir de la foret de Hoch- 
stenbach, lorsqu'il fut mortellement atteint d'une balle. 
I On le transporta a Altenkirchen, ou sa faiblesse obligea de 
| Pabandonner a. la generosite des ennemis. II mourut 
j entre les bras de quelques Francois et des generaux Autri- 
' chiens dans la XXVI Ann6e de son Age. 



II vainquit dans les champs de Fleurus sur les bords de 
l'Ourte, de la Roer, de la Moselle et du Rhin. I/arm6e 
de Sambre et Meuse a, son brave General Marceau. 



" Je voudrais qu'il m'edt cout6 le quart de mon 
sang et vous tinse en sant£ mon prisonnier ! Quoique je 
I sache que l'Empereur mon Maitre n'eat en ses guerres 
plus rude ni facheux ennemi." — M£moires du Chevalier 
Bayard. Allusion aux paroles du General Autrichien, 
Baron de Kray. 

Near the tomb of Marceau were deposited the 
bones of Hoche, his brother in arms, whose mo- 
nument is situated near Wiesse Thurm. Half a 
league from Coblentz was the castle of Schonborn- 
slust, which made a conspicuous figure in the 
history of the French emigrants. It was built 
about eighty years ago, by the Elector Francis 
George, of the house of Schonborn. The mate- 
rials were sold ; the park attached to it has been 
destroyed. The same fate has befallen Harlich 
and Saftig ; but Bassenheim, with its aqueducts, 
still exists, a league and a quarter from Coblentz. 

The traveller may likewise make an excursion 
from Coblentz to the Kuhkopf, the highest moun- 
x 



230 VI. FROM BINGEN TO COBLENTZ. 



tain in the environs. The view is very extensive 
and imposing". It includes all that part of the 
valley of the Rhine between Horchheim and Linz, 
several of the highest points of the Seven Moun- 
tains, and a large portion of the picturesque 
country of Eifel, in the midst of which, on the 
summit of a very lofty mountain, stands the old 
castle of Neroburg, spoken of by Caesar and Ta- 
citus, and called by the inhabitants Niirenburg. 1 
The Camillenberg commands an extensive pro- 
spect. 

Other excursions may be made to the valley of 
Laubach, half a league from Coblentz, in which is 
a spring called Kaltenborns-Brwnchen ; to ~Mo- 
selzreiss, a pretty village on the Moselle, half a 
league from Coblentz ; to the village of Neuendorf, 
on the left bank of the Rhine, half a league dis- 
tant ; and to Wininngen, on the right bank of the 
Moselle, a league and a half. 

The best inns at Coblentz are the Post-house, or 
Hotel of Treves ; the Three Swiss, the Golden 
Apple, the Black Bear, the Court of Cologne, 
the Laacherhof, near the bridge over the Moselle ; 
the Three Crowns, the Lily on the Rhine. The 
best Moselle wines are Bisporter, or Zeltinger. 



23 1 



EXCURSION 

FltOM COBLENTZ TO THE BATHS OF THE 
MOUNTAINS OF TAUNUS. 

| This chain of mountains, which was called in 
| the middle age Harick, Haynrich, or Hdheruck, 
[ and part of which, situated in the Wetterau, still 
bears the name of Hohe, is formed of three 
branches that touch the banks of the Rhine, the 
Maine, and the Lahn. It commences on this 
side of Homburg ror der Hohe, four leagues from 
: Frankfort, where the highest mountains, the 
; Feldberg, and the Altkonig, are situated; thence 
it descends towards Wiesbaden, after being inter- 
rupted near Hochheim ; afterwards passes on the 
side of Schlangenbad, and terminates near Ehren- 
breitstein. In the interior of these mountains 
are iron, lead, copper, and silver mines. The 
latter likewise contain arsenic and sulphur. All 
the mines, as well as the springs of mineral water 
in these mountains, run from east to west. 

The Romans obtained silver from these moun- 
tains, every part of which bears traces of these 
ancient conquerors of the world. Amongst 
others, are the remains of several paved high 
roads, and of an ancient palisaded ditch. Near 
Homburg may be distinctly seen the vestiges 
of the paved road, which extended from the 
castle of Saurbourg, an ancient fort of the Ro- 



232 EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 

mans, as far as Hadernheim, where there was for- 
merly an entrenched camp of Trajan, passing 
through Dornholzhausen, Oberursel, and Niederur- \ 
sel. In the environs of these roads have been \ 
discovered, at various times, urns (such as are \ 
usually found in tombs) and stones, on which j 
were inscribed the names of the officers who su- b 
perintended the construction of these roads. In J 
1823, an old altar was discovered in the main 
street of Hadernheim. It is of the time of Alex- ' 
ander Severus, and bore an inscription to that 
purport. 

The ditch, commonly called Pfalram, commences 
near Braubach, and extends as far as Butzbach and 
Hungen, as well as to the banks of the Ohm, in [ 
Hesse. Traces of it may be seen at Schwalbach 
and Wiesbaden, on the declivity of the mountain 
of Feldberg, and throughout the Taunus. This 
military line consisted of a deep ditch, bordered 
by a palisaded parapet, similar to many others 
which the Romans made in several parts of Ger- 
many. 

Roman tombs, sarcophagi, vases, medals, and 
other antiquities, have been found at various 
times, both on the mountain itself, as well as in 
places on the banks of the Rhine, such as Bibe- 
rich, &c. The greatest number of tombs, how- j 
ever, have been discovered at a short distance 
from Wiesbaden, near the convent of Clarenthal, 
and in the vicinity of the pheasant walk ; others 
have been found in the fields bordering the road, 



TO THE EATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 2SS 



which, in former times, led to Bleidenstadt, and 
I towards Dotzheim. 

The mountains of Taunus are as interesting to 
| those who employ themselves in historical re- 
; search, as to others who delight in contemplating 
1 picturesque scenery, and the extraordinary won- 
| ders of nature. From these mountains, about 
| twenty baths, which exist in the environs of the 
Rhine, the Lahn, and the Maine, are supplied 
| with mineral water. Every body has heard of 
; the baths of Wiesbaden, Ems, Schlangenbad, 
i and Soden, and of the mineral waters of Schwal- 
heim, Weilbach, Schwalbach, Ems, Geilnau, 
Fachingen, and Selters, which are drunk in al- 
most every country in Europe. The springs of 
salt water at Nauenheim, Nidda, Homburg, 
Kronberg, and Soden, are likewise derived from 
the interior of these mountains. Amidst charm- 
ing landscapes appear the ruins of the ancient 
castles of Friedberg, Kransberg, Homburg, Kron- 
berg, Falkenstein, Konigstein, Reifenberg, Hatt- 
stein, Eppenstein, and Sonnenberg. 

At Thai Ehrenbreitstein the traveller com- 
mences his route. A road passing over the 
mountain where Arzstein is situated, leads to 
Ems, which is about two hours' journey. There 
is another and more pleasant road, but a league 
and a half longer, which follows the banks of 
the Lahn, passing by Lahnstein. 

Ems, the Embasis, or Amasia of the ancients, 
likewise called Hembesse, is one of the most 

x a 



224 EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 

ancient baths in Germany. It is situated in a 
narrow valley on the Lahn, and does not contain 
more than 100 houses. Close to it is a group 
of rocks called Boederly, on the top of which are 
the grottoes of Haselman. Ems has two springs, 
the waters of which are drunk, and several others 
for bathing. Their temperature varies from 18 I 
to 44° of Reaumur. 

The particles of which this water is principally 
composed are, carbonic acid, carbonic gas., car- 
bonate of lime, and alkali, and muriate of alkali. 
These waters are particularly salutary for persons 
afflicted in the lungs or eyes. At the bathing- 
houses, besides the shower baths, there are con- j' 
veniences for bathing the eyes. 

There are two Bath Houses, the upper, for- . 
merry the Orange, and the lower, formerly the 
Darmstadt. They are connected together, and 
have 197 rooms, which are let out from one flo- 
rin, 30 kreuzers, to 10 florins per week. The 
Princes' bath at the lower house is of black mar- , 
ble. There are other inns both for invalids and 
travellers. The principal is the Stone House of [ 
M. Heydenhaus,at which are several springs from 
30° to 32° of Reaumur. During the season there [ 
are four tables d'hote. In the Upper House at j 
one florin 21 kr. At the Stone House, at one fa 
florin. At the Grape, 48 kr. At the Lilv, at 
24 kr. ij 

In the bed of the Lahn are some springs of 
warm water, where a bath for horses has been j, 
established. On the other side of the river, at a 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 235 

! place called Spies, is the Dog Grotto, which, 
I like that of Naples^ causes those who enter it to 
I faint away. 

The environs of Ems are pretty, and are en- 
livened by the river Lahn. Linkelbach is much 
visited during the summer, when there is a 
| bridge of boats over the Lahn. Promenades lead 
J on the side of Ems to Kemnau, and on the other 
' side, to the Spiesberg and to the Winterberg. 
| Not far from the baths is the village of Ems, 
; consisting of 160 houses and a neat church. On 
i the right is a path to the silver mine, and on 
the left to the vineyard of Fachback. A quarter 
of a league from the village is the Pfingstweide, 
a mine from which silver, lead, and copper, are 
I obtained. 

A very good road leads from Ems to Nassau, 
a small town two leagues distant. This road, 
which passes through Tausenau (Tusenu) where 
there is a mineral spring, crosses a delightful 
country. Not far from Tausenau, on the left 
bank of the Lahn, is situated the hamlet of Berg- 
Nassau, near which is the entrance to a silver 
mine. The town of Nassau is on the right bank 
of the Lahn. It is said to have been founded by a 
Count of Lauernburg, who discovered the valley 
where it is situated by following a stag. In the 
castle of Baron Stein are several old and curious 
armours. 

Before the thirty years' war, Nassau had a 
beautiful stone bridge across the Lahn, but only 
a few piles of it now remain. 



I 



236 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



Inns. The Star, and the Crown. The latter 
is remarkable for its beautiful situation on the 
banks of the river, and for the prospect which it : 
commands of the ruins of the old castles of n 
Nassau and Stein. The Post station has been b 
transferred to Ems, and an intermediate station c 
established at Singhofen. \i 

On the other side of the Lahn, opposite the \ 
town, is a lofty mountain of an imposing and |] 
picturesque appearance, planted with trees and g 
shrubs, on the top of which appear the ruins of e 
the old castle of Nassau. It was erected by the D 
Count of Lauernburg, the first of the house of \ 
Nassau. Baron Stein has made a good road to 
this castle, but the traveller must inquire for it, tl 
as it is not very easily found. The tower of this js 
old castle is in good preservation, but the en- I 
trance to it is difficult. A staircase, in excellent 
repair, leads to the top of the tower, whence i 
there is a fine prospect of the surrounding moun- fi 
tains. At the foot of the mountain, on the 
south-east side, is the village of Scheuem, which i 
has a very picturesque appearance. To the west, I 
on the declivity of a mountain interspersed with i 
rocks, appear the ruins of the old castle of Stein, \ 
an ancient tenure of Nassau, whence the family \ 
of Stein derives its origin, Many of the old 1 
rooms of this castle have been repaired within a 
few years, and it has still a remarkable prison, j 

The direct road from Nassau to Schwalbach 
passes through Singhofen, Holzhausen, and 
Kernel ; but in order to see the beauties of the (i 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 237 



valley of the Lahn, and visit Geilnau, Fachingen, 
and Selters, he should continue his route along 
the banks of the river, by Langenau and Obernhof, 
as far as Holzapfel and Geilnau. On ascending 
the river, two leagues from Nassau, is the village 
of Langenau. Behind it may be seen, on the top 
of a lofty mountain, the ruins of a castle of the 

! same name, which was destroyed in 1356. On 
the left bank of the river, nearly opposite Lan- 

i genau, is the convent of Arnstein. This ancient 
abbey of Augustines, which is situated on the 

I top of a mountain covered with rocks, was once 
the residence of a family of counts. Count Louis 
of Arnstein, the last of his race, had seven daugh- 
ters, but no son. Having married his daughters, 

I and divided amongst them part of his dominions, 

; he transformed his castle, in 1 1 39, into a convent, 
which he endowed with several villages, farms, 
and rights, and named Godefroy,.a monk, the 
first abbot of it. He himself afterwards retired 
to this convent, where he lived forty years. His 
tomb may be seen in the church of the abbey. 

The road then leads, passing through the vil- 
lage of Palseich, to the small town of Holzapjel, 
situated in the county of the same name. On the 
side of it, near tire Lahn, are the ruins of the cas- 
tle of Lauernburgy which is situated at the top of 
a mountain. Not far from Holzapfel is Chariot- 
tenburg, a colony of the religious sect called 
Waldenses 

Between Holzapfel and Lauernburg is a foun- 
dry of lead and silver, belonging to the Prince of 



238 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



Schaumburg, which annually produces from fifty 
to sixty thousand florins. The castle of Schaum- 
burg is situated not far from this place, on the 
left bank of the Lahn. 

A short distance beyond Holzapfel is Geihiau, 
situated on the Lahn, five leagues from Ems. 
It was famous in the time of the ancients for its 
mineral waters, but it was afterwards forgotten 
till its re-establishment in 1809. This mineral 
water is very clear, and has a sharp pleasant 
taste, and when mixed with wine and sugar, froths 
like champagne. The parts of which it is com- 
posed are, carbonic gas, muriate of alkali, lime, 
muriate of magnesia, carbonate of alkali and of 
iron. The fountains which supply this water 
are not, however, so arranged that it may be 
drunk at the spring. 

About two leagues from Geilnau is Fachingen. 
The road passing through Schaumburg (which, 
as well as Fachingen, is on the left bank of the 
Lahn), although the longest, is the most agree- 
able. The castle of Schaumburg is situated on the 
banks of the Lahn where this river bends. It is 
the residence of Prince Anhalt-Bernburg-Schaum- 
burg. In 1656, the Countess Agnes of Holzap- 
fel bought the castle and lordship of Schaum- 
burg of the Count Linange-Westerburg, and de- I 
livered it from the dominion of the Elector of 
Cologne. By the marriage of her granddaugh- 
ter, it passed, with the county of Holzapfel, to 
its present possessor, the Palatine Archduke of 
Hungary, brother of the Emperor Francis II. 
The castle is well situated, and commands fine 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 239 



prospects. At the foot of the mountain are se- 
veral farms. 

At the top of a mountain, not far from Schaurn- 
burg, are the ruins of the castle of Balduinstein, 
which was built in 1315 by Archbishop Baldwin 
of Treves. 

At the foot of the mountain is a village, and 
between this village and another called Hansen, 
| are some extensive iron-mines, 
i Those who admire wild and dreary scenery, 
; similar to that exhibited in the pictures of Ruis- 
dael, Everdingen, and Salvator Rosa, will not 
omit to visit the castle and market-town of Kat- 
zenellnbogen y the environs of which are extremely 
gloomy. There is no doubt that this castle was 
inhabited by the Counts of Katzenellnbogen. 
! These counts possessed, besides numerous do- 
! mains on the banks of the Rhine, the towns of 
Nastadten, Langenschwalbach, and the convent 
of Gruna : William VII. of Katzenellnbogen 
built the castle of Schwalbach in 1371. This 
family possessed the greater part of the country 
comprised in the angle formed by the Rhine and 
the Lahn. 

The shortest road from Schaumburg to Fa- 
chingen is only three quarters of a league in 
length, but it is a footpath only passable for per- 
sons accustomed > to walk on mountains ; it is 
therefore advisable to pass through the village 
of Berlebach, which increases the distance half a 
league. 

Fachinge?i is situated at the bottom of a pic- 
turesque valley, between two lofty mountains co- 



240 EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 

vered with trees. The fountain of mineral water 
at Fachingen, which was discovered in 1745, is 1 
formed of four springs, issuing from the ground 
O® the side of the Lahn, so that they are only 
separated from the river by a bank. In conse- i 
quence of its situation, this fountain is liable to \ 
be inundated when the river swells, but the go- \ 
vernment of Nassau has remedied this inconve- r 
nience in placing pumps, by means of which the fj 
cistern of the fountain may be emptied in a very S 
short time. The parts composing the water of 
Fachingen are nearly the same as those forming ' 
the water of Selters. It contains less muriate I 
of alkali, but more pure potash, iron, and car- J 
bonic gas. It has a very pleasant taste, parti- I 
cularly when mixed with wine, sugar, or milk. | 
Persons afflicted with giddiness or fainting fits i 
may derive great benefit from the use of this F 
water. It will keep good for several years, and 
is consequently exported to Russia, to the East r 
Indies, and to the Cape of Good Hope. It is 
more easily digested than other mineral waters, 
and is recommended by physicians to persons > 
who require aperitive medicines. Three hundred h 
thousand jugs of this water are annually drawn U 
and sold for the benefit of the government of 
Nassau. 

On the Lahn, a quarter of a league above 
Fachingen, and near the mouth of the Aar, is 
the small town of Dietz, which formerly belonged 
to the duchy of OrangerNassau. That part of : 
the town which has been lately constructed is 
regular, and is distinguished for the cleanliness 



! 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 241 

! and neatness by which Dutch towns are charac- 
terised. In forrne rtimes, Dietz had its own 
counts, but the family became extinct in 1388. 

The Lahn is navigable from this town to its 
mouth in the Rhine, and the inhabitants of Dietz 
convey on it a large quantity of corn, that comes 

l from the valley of the Aar and from its environs, 

I which are very fertile. The Prussian govern- 

I ment propose to render the river navigable as 

j high as Wetzlar. 

A quarter of a league above Dietz is the cha- 
teau of Oranienstein> formerly a convent, given up 
by the Prince of Orange to the Duke of Nassau. 

A good road leads from Dietz to the small 
town of Limburg, which is a league distant. 
This town is very ancient, and is often mentioned 

' in the history of Germany in the middle ages. 

[ The Palatine Count Everhard established his re- 
sidence at this place, and according to some au- 
thors, his brother the Emperor Conrad T. was 
buried here.* The church of St. George is one 
of the most beautiful and remarkable monuments 
of antiquity. It was built at the commencement 
of the 10th century by Count Conrad, but has 
never been entirely finished. In its interior are 
several paintings of the old German school. The 
church of the Franciscans likewise contains se- 
veral pictures. 

The Court of Nassau and Busch's, opposite the 
Post House, are the best inns, where good accom- 
modations may be procured at a moderate price. 

* It is more probable that he was interred at Weilburg, 
or at Fulde. 

Y 



242 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



Three leagues from Limburg is Niederselters. 
The mineral water of this place is one of the 
most famous in Germany. The spring is situated 
at the top of a mountain, in the midst of a wild 
and dreary country. It was only discovered be- 
tween the years 1500 and 1550, and was filled 
up during the thirty years' war. The excellent 
qualities of this water do not seem to hav.e been 
formerly appreciated, as the annual rent was at one 
time only two florins, twenty kreuzers : towards 
the end of the 18th century it rose to five florins, 
and in twenty years afterwards to fourteen thou- 
sand florins. When the Elector of Treves, to 
whom the spring belonged, took an account of 
it, it produced annually eighty thousand florins. 
This water contains a great deal of alkali, which 
contributes to dissolve the iron in it. The mo- 
derate combination of this substance with the 
carbonic gas, causes the use of this water (which 
is easily preserved) in almost every country. It 
is even sent to both the Indies. Since 1803 this 
spring has become the property of the duchy of 
Nassau. The sale of it varies extremely, and 
depends entirely on the weather. If the summer 
is warm, more of this water is consumed, since it 
is then taken as an agreeable beverage as well as 
a salutary medicine. When mixed with wine and 
sugar, it resembles champagne in taste, but is much 
more refreshing. In a recent year, upwards of a 
million and a half pitchers of it were exported. It 
may scarcely be thought possible to fill so many 
pitchers, each of which contains three pounds of 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 24:3 



this liquid, from the water of a single fountain, 
if it is considered that it can only be drawn in 
five months of the year, and consequently (de- 
ducting Sundays and holidays) that 7000 pitchers 
must be filled each day, covered on the top, and 
sealed with resin. But all this may be easily 
| believed when the manner in which it is done is 
! made known. It was formerly accomplished by 
' stout peasant girls, who had acquired great dex- 
| terity in the employment : but for some years past 
a machine has been used, by means of which a 
large number of pitchers are at once plunged be- 
neath the water and drawn out when full. In 
1822, the number of pitchers and half pitchers 
filled here amounted to 1.900,000. 

The operation commences early in the morn- 
ing, and continues till eleven o'clock, during 
which time no other person may draw water. 
From eleven till one, in the middle of the day, 
the neighbouring persons are allowed to procure 
water, but no person is admitted to get more than 
a man can carry : carriages may not come to the 
fountain ; they must load at the warehouse, 
where one hundred pitchers, sealed with resin, 
will cost fourteen florins. The charge was for- 
merly eleven. From one till seven o'clock pit- 
chers are filled for government. 

Those who wish to drink this water as pure as 
possible, from the spring itself, should choose for 
this purpose a Sunday or holiday ; as the water 
being continually agitated on other days by the 
dipping in of the pitchers, necessarily loses its 
original strength. 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



The hotel of the Court of Nassau, at Nieder- 
selters, is superior to many others at the water- 
ing-places, as it affords good accommodation at 
a moderate price. 

A few paces from the mineral spring is a spring 
of soft water. It has been observed that the 
water of Selters soon spoils when the pitchers 
are placed on the ground, but will keep a long 
time if they are put on a wooden stand. 

At Ober selters is another mineral fountain, 
which has nearly the same properties as the one 
just mentioned, but it is not made use of. 

Six leagues from Niederselters is Schicalbach, 
a market-town, which is likewise called Langen- 
sckwalbach, and is situated in a beautiful valley 
covered with wood. It is said that the name of 
Schwalbach (Swallow's Rivulet) is derived from 
the great number of rivulets and swallows seen 
in the environs of this town. This place is di- 
vided into two parts, Upper and Lower Schwal- 
bach. The latter is situated some distance from 
the mineral springs, of which there are fourteen. 
Schwalbach was famous for its waters in the 16th 
century, and in 1581 the celebrated physician 
and botanist, Taberna Montanus, published a de- 
scription of them. 

The fountain called Lindenbrunnen, the water 
of which is frequently drunk by the inhabitants 
of Schwalbach instead of ordinary water, is si- 
tuated in the middle of the town. Not far from 
it is the Brodelquelle, so called because its water 
continually bubbles like boiling water, although 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 245 

' it is extremely cold. It contains more alkali 
I than ferruginous parts. This spring was disco - 
| vered in the 15th century, which was some time 
| before the others. It is nine feet deep and three 
j wide. The fountain Stadtbrunnen is situated on 
: the road leading to Schlangenbad. 

The Weinborn and Stahlborn hold the first 
• rank amongst those at Schwalbach. The Wein- 
' born {Aquae Vinarice) rises in a meadow near the 
I road which leads to Wiesbaden and Schlangen- 
bad. A footpath from the road leads to it. 
, The water is clear as crystal, and its taste re- 
i sembles that of wine : whence it is sometimes 
called Wine Fountain. It is preferred to that of 
Stahlbrunnen, because it contains more mineral 
I particles, which are sooner dissolved. These 
springs have within a few years become the pro- 
perty of the House of Nassau, by whom the en- 
virons have been very much improved. The 
Weinborn supplies in an hour nine tuns, each con- 
taining 180 bottles. About 250,000 pitchers or 
stone bottles of it are annually exported. The 
substances composing the water of the Wein- 
brunnen are, muriated lime^ magnesia, sulphuric 
acid, muriated alkali, alum, carbonate of iron, 
and carbonate of potash. A walk near this foun- 
tain serves as a promenade for persons taking 
the waters, and has several buildings in it where 
they may take shelter from the sun or rain. 

The fountain called Stahlbrunnen (which be- 
longs to the Prince of Hesse-Rothenburg) was 
only discovered in 1740. It produces in an hour 
y 3 



246 EXCURSION FROM COBLEXTZ 



five tuns of water, each containing 180 bottles; 
and about 150,000 pitchers of it are exported an- 
nually. Its composition is similar to that of 
Weinbrunnen, but its specific weight is different. 
Around this spring are pleasant promenades, 
which are much frequented. 

The baths at Schwaibach are supplied with 
water from the Brodelbrunnen, mixed with that 
of the Weinbrunnen. 

The Ehebrunnen or Nuptial Spring, which de- 
rives its name from an oak and a beech-tree I 
grafted together, likewise contains much mineral 
substance, but is no longer used. 

The Rotelborn, or Rumpelborn, is situated in 
a valley, covered with meadows, and its water 
has been drunk for the last thirty or forty years* 

Schwaibach has several delightful promenades, 
the most frequented of which are the roads lead- 
ing to Ehrbaum, to Schonbaum, to the Wiesen- 
briinnchen, and to the triple echo. 

Two other interesting spots in the vicinity of 
Schwaibach are Adolphseck and Hohenstein. 

Adolphseck is an old castle fallen to ruins, and 
situated near a market-town of the same name. 
The castle is on the top of a circular mountain, 
and its environs have a picturesque appearance. 
It is said that Adolphus of Nassau, before he 
was made emperor, built this castle as the resi- 
dence of a nun, whom he had taken from a con- 
vent, where this young person had been remark- i 
ably attentive in dressing his wounds. The ditch 
of the castle was cut out of the rock, and very 
near it are several ponds. The Emperor Albert 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 247 

of Austria, the adversary of Adolphus, destroyed 
I this castle in 1302, but it was afterwards rebuilt. 
! It was habitable in 1695, but it has since fallen 
| into ruins. 

j Two leagues from Adolphseck is Hohenstein 
an old castle situated at the top of a mountain 
| on the banks of the Aar, and surrounded by 
; extensive meadows. This castle originally be- 
1 longed to the Lords of Hohenstein, from whom it 
i passed to the Counts of Katzenelinbogen. It was 
destroyed during the thirty years' war ; but, to 
i judge from its ruins, has been very strong. Part 
of it still exists, consisting of a gate, a lofty tower 
called Hexenthurm, a room where the torture 
was inflicted, a hall where the ladies assembled, 
j and an apartment, the walls of which are orna- 
mented with paintings. At the castle is the 
keeper's house, where good accommodation may 
be procured at a moderate price. 

Not far from this place are the ruins of the fort 
of Greifenstein, and the old castle of Kattenelburg ) 
at the top of a mountain called Kattenalp. 

The environs of the Lahn present numerous 
beautiful prospects, as well as several castles 
fallen in ruins, which bear the names of many 
ancient and distinguished families. Two leagues 
from Hohenstein, and about the same distance 
from Schwalbach, is the castle of Schwalbach, on 
the banks of the Aar. It was built in 1371, by 
Count William of Katzenelinbogen, and is not 
entirely destroyed. A league distant, at the end 
of a wood called Fuchshohle, are the strong 
towers of the old castle of Hollenfels, which is 



248 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ. 



said to have been built in the 14th century by 
the Knight Daniel of Langenau. It is extremely j 
well situated, and its windows command fine 
prospects. In the wood just mentioned is an j 
iron mine, which furnishes the mineral for the , 
foundry of Michelbach. \ 

The castle of Aarteck, nearer to Dietz, is still \ 
more interesting, and is probably of Roman ori- ] 
gin. Ancient medals have often been found at | 
this place, and in the wall are several antique , 
bas-reliefs, well worthy of observation. 

The best inns at Schwalbach are, — the Golden } ; 
Fountain, the Gerber House, the Imperial Hall, 
and the Golden Chain. The first, which is also a i 
Post-house, is a very good inn. The prices of the ) 
table d'hotes are 1 fl. 12 kr. for dinner, and 36 
kreuzers for supper. There are three principal 
halls for persons taking the waters : that of the 
promenade, the Imperial, and that at the chain. 

Scarcely two leagues from Schwalbach is 
Schlangenbad. This bath was discovered about 
two hundred years ago by a heifer that was ill. 
This animal daily left the flock, and the herds- 
man one day met it, to his great astonishment, i 
near a spring of warm water, which it had fre- 
quented for the cure of its disease, and from 
which it had received benefit. In 1657, Dr. | 
Gloxin, of Worms, gained possession of this bath, 
which was sold to him by the Commune of ; 
Berstatt, together with the surrounding land and 
timber, for two butts of wine. The house of 
Hesse-Cassel, under whose dominion this coun- I 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 



249 



try then was, obtained this bath. In 1694 the 
Landgrave Charles erected accommodations 
around it, which have since been enlarged and 
improved, and have cost more than 400,000 flo- 
rins. The baths are of marble. The Landgrave 
Frederick I., who afterwards became King of 
Sweden, caused 4000 pitchers of water from this 
fountain to be sent annually to Stockholm. 

The position of Schlangenbad is truly pictu^ 
resque. It is situated in the middle of a dreary 
country, covered with woods, where nature is 
exhibited in her original beauty. Those who 
dislike bustle, and prefer the silence and tran- 
quillity of the country to the games, balls, and 
other diversions of bathing-places, will be highly 
gratified at Schlangenbad. 

The substances composing the water of these 
baths, which is clear as crystal, are alum and 
magnesia : it is supposed, however, to contain 
some mineral, although none has yet been dis- 
covered. The heat of the water by Reaumur is 
22°. The building called Nassauer Haus (House 
of Nassau), is connected with the House of 
Hesse by a gallery : it has three springs that 
produce in twenty-four hours 3500 tuns of wa- 
ter, and ten very spacious baths, one of which is 
a shower-bath. Two baths are of porcelain, and 
a third is of marble. There are six other baths 
in the new house. The average revenue pro- 
duced annually by this bath, for the last ten 
years, has been scarcely fifty florins ; the ex- 
pensive maintenance of this establishment should 



250 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



be considered, therefore, as a sacrifice made by 
the government for the benefit of suffering hu- f 
manity. Indeed, every possible accommodation J 
has been provided for persons taking the waters ; ) 
lodgings, provisions, and wines ; in short, every m 
thing convenient. The baths are well laid out, i 
and kept with great neatness. \ 

The traveller should not omit to walk from 
Schlangenbad to the small chapel near Rauen-J 
thai, on the height of Bubenhausen, which com-;j 
mands one of the finest views in the RheingauJ; 
Between Rauenthal and Kiderich are the re-=: 
mains of an ancient wall, painted with various I 
characters. It is called Alte Burg (Old Castle.) i 

Only two leagues and a half from Schlangenbad J 
is Wiesbaden ; but those who wish to enjoy ait 
magnificent prospect will not hesitate to return I 
to Schwalbach, and take the gravel road which I! 
leads from that place to Wiesbaden, passing!; 
over the height of Hohe Wurzel. The whole 
valley of the Rhine, through which this river 
bends its course as far as the mountains of then 
Black Forest, extends before the eye of the 1 
spectator. Before him is the city of Mayence,' 
with its numerous steeples ; heights of gentle 
declivity rise behind this town, and in the dis- i 
tance appears Mont Tonnerre, whose towering j 
summit seems to reach the clouds. On the p 
right are some of the villages of the Rheingau 
scattered along the banks of the river. In the 
distance, on the left, are the tops of the moun- 
tains bordering the Bergstrasse, and in front of 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 251 

| 

them the beautiful valley, watered by the Maine, 
j at the end of which is the town of Frankfort, 
i At the foot of the mountain is Wiesbaden, half 

concealed by hills, 
| A shorter but steeper road passes through the 
| village of Georgenborn, from which there is a 
i fine view. 

| The springs (aquce mattiacce) were known in 
' the time of the Romans, and there are several 
I antique remains of that period at Wiesbaden. 

Of this number are the ruins of a fort con- 
! structed by Drusus, which may be seen in the 
burying-ground, in the street of the butchers, 
in an adjacent garden, and near the old tower of 
the castle. The wall which surrounded this 
j fort commenced near the hill situated behind 
the north side of the town ; it then crossed the 
long street, and the street of butchers ; the ditch 
afterwards passed by the old castle, and termi- 
nated where the boundary of the town now is. 
The greater part of this wall has been employed 
in the construction of buildings. It was twenty 
feet high and ten feet thick, and was cased on 
both sides with hewn stones placed regularly 
one above another; the interior was filled up 
with small stones, pieces of tile and broken 
bricks, which w f eie cemented together by seve- 
ral layers of mortar. The part of the wall still 
remaining is 650 feet in length, and forms the 
enclosure of the burying-ground. 

The remains of many Roman baths have like- 
wise been discovered at Wiesbaden ; on one of 



252 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



them are some inscriptions in honour of Apollo 
and Hercules, and the name of the legion sta- 
tioned in this quarter. In the street Saalgasse 
are several cellars that have been used as vapour 
baths. Near the tower of the castle some very - 
curious Roman medals have been found. 

Wiesbaden, called Wisibadun in the time of 
the Salic Franks, was then the chief place of the 
district of Kunigesundra, which extended from " 
Epstein to Walluf. The Carlovingian kings 
built a palace there, where Charlemagne occa- • 
sionally resided, and which was afterwards in- : 
habited for a considerable time by Otto the-* 
Great, who raised Wiesbaden to the rank of a 
town in 965. At the commencement of the; 1 
18th century, trenches were made in the ground 
where this palace, which was called Sala, for- 
merly stood, and on that occasion walls, covered) 
with paintings, and other ruins, were discovered. 
This palace subsisted entire till the commence- 
ment of the 13th century, and was probably set 
fire to by the Lords of Eppenstein, who in 1280 
burnt the town of Wiesbaden. The town was> 
rebuilt by the Emperor Adolphus. The street 
which formerly led to the royal palace is now f 
called Saaigasse. 

Some remains of the old castle still exist. 
The new castle, which was built towards the end i 
of the 16th century by John Louis of Nassau, 
is in very good repair,, The Town-house is re- 
markable for coats of arms executed in wood, 1 
and other ornaments on the outside, amongst 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 253 

which are the arms of the Franks ; namely, 
three lilies on a blue ground. 

At Wiesbaden are fifteen springs of warm mi- 
neral water and two of cold. The substances 

i composing this water are, — carbonate of lime, 
magnesia, muriate of alkali, muriate of lime and 

! of magnesia, sulphate of alkali, and sulphate of 

! lime, alum, and a little iron mixed with carbo- 
nate of alkali. 

I The warmest spring, called Koehbrunnen, is 
25° of Reaumur. Here are two springs of sul- 

! phurous water. In 1 823, a promenade was formed 

! for persons taking the waters. There are twenty- 
four bathing-houses, exclusive of the hospital 
and public baths. Two of these baths, namely, 

I those called Rebhuhn (the Partridge) and the 
Half Moon,, are only frequented by Jews. The 
principal bathing-houses are, — 1. The English 
Court. — 2. The Crossbow. — 3. The Eagle or 
Post-house. — 4. The Rose. The last three are 
likewise inns. — 5. The Bear. — 6. The Black 
Goat. — 7. The Four Seasons, in WiHiam Street. 
This hotel and the Kursaal are the handsomest 
houses in Wiesbaden. One half of each of these 
houses contains lodgings, and in the other are 
baths. The buildings containing the baths are 
from twenty to forty feet high, and just under 
the roof of most of them apertures are made to 
leave a free passage to the steam. A building 
of this kind contains from ten to thirty baths, 
which are situated in small rooms entirely en- 
closed. The price of the table d'hotes is not 
z 

i 



254 



EXCURSION FROM COB LENTZ 



dear, but the greater part of the persons who 
take the waters procure dinner from restaura- 
teurs. i( 

The wells in the town contain water that has 
a salt taste. Several are situated on the side of f 
the warm springs, without losing their natural 
freshness. This tends to support the opinion of 
those who think that the focus, whence these ( 
springs derive their heat, is outside the town ; : 
probably in the mountains north-west of it. « 

The only fountain in the town which furnishes t 
water fit to drink, is that in the market-place. ! 
This water is conveyed through pipes from a 
spring near the road of Schwalbach. The Kie- I 
selborn is introduced into the town by iron pipes, i 
laid down in 1822. 

Several rivulets of cold water cross the town 
and receive the water which flows from the mi- 
neral springs. 

The Kursaal or New Hall at Wiesbaden is an I 
establishment for the use of persons taking the 
waters. It was designed by M. Wollzogen of 
Weimar, who died at Wiesbaden, and completed 
by M. Zais, the funds for the purpose being 
raised in shares. This building is situated at jf 
the end of a promenade behind the fountain 
Wiessenbrunnen,* and communicates by a walk ; 
with the garden Herrengarten. In front of the 
great saloon are colonnades, containing shops. 

!> 

* The water of this fountain is fit to drink ; it consists 
principally of muriated and carbonated lime. 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 255 

The principal building includes a splendid dan- 
cing-room, smaller rooms for refreshments or 
play, others where parties assemble, and the 
apartments occupied by the proprietor of this 
establishment. Much taste is displayed in the 
decorations, furniture, and distribution of the 
I interior of this structure. There are various 
j busts and statues, and a cast from the Apollo 
' Belvidere. The columns in the great hall are 
I of marble from the quarries near Limburg. The 
whole edifice is built with stone ; it presents a 
front 350 feet in length, and is 170 in depth. 

During the bathing season concerts are given 
daily at this building, balls occasionally, and 
a table d'hote is provided every day. Several 
I rooms are appropriated to cards, but gaming is 
! not carried on to the same extent as at other 
bathing-places. 

The Library at Wiesbaden is open to the pub- 
lic, and any stranger or subject of the Duchy 
may have the use of the books. A catalogue of 
it has been printed. 

A museum of antiquities, as well as of modern 
works of the fine arts, has also been formed at 
Wiesbaden. It must be confessed that such 
a collection could be nowhere more appropriate 
than at a bathing-place frequented by so much 
company. 

The most delightful promenade in the envi- 
rons of Wiesbaden is that formed by the rows of 
trees and groves lately planted, which reach 
from the Herrengarten to the fountain called 
Wiesenbrunnen, and surround the Kursaal. 



256 EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 

Nature has been extremely bountiful in embel- 
lishing the environs of Wiesbaden. The hill and f 
valley of Neresberg, half a league west of the town, 1 
are particularly beautiful. On the hill are the 
remains of a Roman building, supposed to have \[ 
been a hunting-seat of the Neros, the foundations s 
of which were laid by Drusus and Tiberius, Hence 5 
some have derived the name Nerosberg (Nero's t 
Hill). Amongst the other interesting places in the e 
environs are, — 1. Sonnenberg, half a league from - 
the baths. It is said that the old castle of this f 
name was built by Sunno, a German prince. Adol- ! 
phus of Nassau rendered it strong, in order to \ 
defend the country against the attacks of the • 
lords of Eppenstein. The picturesque ruins of 
this castle nearly surround the village of Sonnen- p 
berg. — 2. The Pheasant Walk, which is situated 
in a beautiful valley, encircled by a wood, three 
quarters of a league from the town, — 3. Klaren- • 
thals, in front of the Pheasant Walk. It was P 
formerly a convent of nuns, which was founded 
by Adolphus of Nassau, and his wife Imogine, ; 
The sister of this prince was the first abbess of f 
this convent, and his daughter became the pri- f 
oress. This convent was secularized by the '-■ 
descendants of Adolphus, in the last century, t 
and the tomb of Imogine transferred to the 
parish church of Wiesbaden. In the vicinity of 
the Pheasant Walk, and of the convent of Kla- 1 
renthal, may be seen, on both sides of the road 
leading to Bleidenstadt, a great number of an- : 
cient tombs, part of which are covered with 
brambles and trees. Many of these tombs were 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 257 

opened about thirty years ago, and inside 
were discovered coals, ashes, urns filled with 
bones and ashes, cups, lachrymatories, lances, 
arrows, consecrated knives, and lamps. In se- 
veral of them there were likewise gold, silver, 
and copper medals. Similar tombs have been 
! found near Dolzheim. — 4. The mountain of 
I Geisberg. It commands a fine view of Mayence, 
and the villages on the banks of the Rhine. — 
I 5. Adamstkal, a farm in the woods, a league from 
Wiesbaden. — 6. The Mill, at some distance 
i from the convent of Klarenthal. It has an ele- 
| gant assembly-room, and a pretty garden. Per- 
sons taking the waters often form parties to go 
to this place. — 7. The hunting- seat called Platte, 
I rebuilt and enlarged in 1823. It is situated in 
the middle of a wood, on the Istein road, one 
league from Wiesbaden. From this castle there 
is one of the most extensive and beautiful pro- 
spects in Germany (that from the height called 
Hohe Wurzel, mentioned before, is nearly similar). 
Good accommodation may be procured at the 
forest-keeper's. This chateau is situated at the 
foot of the mountain called Trompeterberg, which 
is supposed to have derived its name from the 
Buccinobantes, a branch of the Mattiaci. — 8. 
Bibrich, formerly called Biburc, which has been 
already noticed. It is the most princely resi- 
dence on the banks of the Rhine. The road to 
it by Mosbach commands a fine view. 

The antiquary will find abundant employment 
at Wiesbaden. In every part of this country 
z 3 



258 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



may be seen memorials of the time when the 
Romans and the Germans disputed the posses- 
sion of the beautiful territory on the banks of the 
Rhine. There are still visible, on the heights 
around Wiesbaden, and particularly on that call- 
ed Neresberg, near Zugmantel and Heftrich, the 1 
traces of stone ramparts made by the Germans, 
and the remains of the walls of ancient forts 
constructed by the Romans. 

In the town-house of Wiesbaden are preserved 
copies of numerous inscriptions which have been 
discovered. Most of the stones on which these 
inscriptions were, have been lost. One of these 
stones that was taken from an ancient Roman 
bath, and now forms part of the wall of the 
bathing-house of Schutzenkopf, had been erected 
in honour of Apollo (Apollini tutelari) by a cen- 
turion of the seventh legion, which was quar- 
tered in the environs of Wiesbaden and Mayence. 

Wiesbaden made a conspicuous figure in the 
history of the middle age. It has been already 
mentioned that the kings of the Franks had a 
palace there. Charlemagne often repaired thi- 
ther from Niederingelheim, for the purpose of 
bathing. The emperor Otto resided here in 965, 
when he signed several writings in favour of the 
bishopric of Magdeburg, and some of the impe- 
rial towns. Wiesbaden has several monuments 
of this date, one of which is a stone with an i 
inscription. 

Those who study botany and mineralogy will 1 
find numerous objects to gratify their curiosity 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 259 

in the environs of Wiesbaden. The woods, as 
well as the meadows, contain a great number of 
scarce and curious plants. 

The traveller should not neglect to make an 
excursion from Wiesbaden to the neighbouring 
mountains which form part of the Taunus. In 
order to reach them, the traveller must pass 
j through Eppenstein, which is three leagues dis- 
i tant. This small town, near which is the old 
| castle of the same name, is situated in the cen- 
: tre of four beautiful valleys called Fischbach, 
Lorsbach, Fokenhausen and Bremthal. There is a 
tradition, that a dreadful giant formerly inhabit- 
ed the rock where the castle now stands. A 
knight named Eppo, having caught him in an 
iron net, threw him down an abyss, and built 
' the castle of Eppenstein on the rock. A whale- 
bone suspended over the gate is said to be one 
of the bones of this giant, and is shown as a cor- 
roboration of the tale. The knights of Eppen- 
stein were very rich and powerful lords, and 
Mayence had four archbishops, who were part of 
their family. The line of Godefroy became ex- 
tinct in 1497, and that of Everhard, or Miinzen- 
berg, in 1544. In the church of this small town 
are the tombs, and representations in stone, of 
these ancient knights. The mountains of Stauf- 
fen, Gahberg, and Rossert, situated in the vici- 
nity, have a picturesque appearance. On the 
southern declivity of the Stauffen are several 
Roman tombs, and on its summit is a rock of a 
singular form, around which is the trace of an 



260 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



ancient rampart made with earth. Near Eich- 
kopf, behind Fisehbach, is the convent of Retters, 
(Retterese) which was founded in the twelfth 
century by Count Gerard of Nurings. On the 
site of this convent, the farm of Roders is erect- , 
ed. In the valley of Eppenstein is a mineral 
spring, near which some baths have been esta- h 
blished within a few years. 

A pleasant road leads from Eppenstein, through \ 
Hofheim and Sulzbach, to Soden. Hofkcim is 
situated on the Maine, and, near it, at the top of 
a mountain covered with wood, is a church, | 
which is much frequented as a place of pilgrim- 
age, and contains the tomb of a Count of 
Stolberg. ^ L 

Sulzbach is delightfully situated. In the time j, 
of the Carlovingian kings it was only a curtis 
regia. It afterwards became a village indepen- j 
dent of the German empire, and by this title it 
contracted an alliance with the town of Frank- E 
fort in 1282. 

Soden, which is two leagues from Eppenstein, 
and was formerly a colony of Sulzbach, derives 
its name from a spring of salt-water, situated 
there. It has mineral springs, and two inns with L 
baths, the Nassau Hotel and the Bender Hotel. 
The water has a temperature of 14° or 16° of I 
Reaumur. The substances composing this water 
are carbonic gas, alkali, muriate of alkali, and a 
small quantity of iron. The brine produces ex- 
cellent common salt. In former times, Soden 
was likewise a village independent of the Ger- 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 



261 



' man empire, and under the protection of May- 
ence and Frankfort. It now belongs to the house 
of Nassau. The situation of Soden is charming ; 
it is encircled by heights of a delightful appear- 
ance, and the surrounding country is remarkably 
beautiful. A neat promenade leads to the top 
of a hill where there is a church. Many sup- 
pose that the Solicinium of the ancients was in 
the environs of Soden, near Mamolshain. 

A league from Soden is Kronberg vor der 
Hdhe, which is surrounded by a small wood of 
fruit and chestnut trees. The ancient possessors 
of the castle near Kronberg were vassals who im- 
mediately depended on the German empire. 
They were first called Askehiern (Eschborn), and 
did not take the name of Knights of Kronberg, 
till they had acquired possession of KronbergC 
In the castle, which is very much dilapidated, is a 
picture, with an inscription in verse, representing 
the battle in 1389, wheu the Knights of Kron- 
berg obtained a victory for the Palatines, who 
were their allies, over the inhabitants of Frank- 
fort. 

Kronberg has lately been famous for the nur- 
series belonging to Christ, a man of considerable 
merit- The young trees raised here, are sent as 
far as Livonia and Crimea. 

In the valley between Kronberg and Mamol- 
shain, is a spring of mineral water, which contains 
a large quantity of salt, iron, and sulphur, and 
is an excellent remedy for chronic complaints. 
There are, however, no accommodations for tak- 



262 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



ing the waters at this place. Not far from this 
spring is another salt-water spring, which pro- 
duces a great deal of salt. 

The traveller should not omit to go from Kron- 
berg to the old castle of Falkenstein, which is one 
of the most beautiful ruins in the Taunus. In 
fine weather it commands a view of more than 
seventy of the surrounding towns and villages, 
as well as of a part of the Rheingau. From this 
castle sprung (according to the opinion of M. de 
Gerning) the Counts of Nuringes, the last of 
whom, Count Gerard, died in 1170, leaving two 
daughters, named Guda and Lukhardis, by whose 
marriage the domains of the father passed to 
Wernher II. of Boland, and to Kuno I. of Mun- 
zenburg. The last Lord of Munzenburg dying in j 
1255, his tive sisters divided his inheritance, part 
of which fell into the hands of Philip I. of Falk- 
enstein, who rebuilt the castle, and called it new 
Neufalkenstein. He was a very rich and power- 
ful lord, and his sister Beatrice was considered 
the most beautiful woman of her time. She mar- 
ried the German king, Richard of Cornwallis, 
who first saw her in the castle of Gudenfels, on I 
the banks of the Rhine. She was buried at Ox- 
ford. The valiant Bishop Kuno, of Treves, was S 
likewise a descendant of that line of lords of i 
Falkenstein, and of Wetterau, which became ex- 
tinct in 1418. The property then passed to the 
female line, and with it to the houses of Solms, 
Eppenstein, Sayn, Isenburg, and Virneburg. 
The thrush, called turdas saxatilis, generally 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 263 

I found in the southern Alps, has for many years 
inhabited these ruins ; and in the forest grows an 
Alpine plant, the doronicum pardalianches. 

Those who wish to see the ancient fortress of 
Konigstein, may visit it from this place, if they 
have not previously made an excursion to it from 
! Eppenstein. In 1796, this fortress was taken 
I without much resistance, by the French, who 
; blew up the fortifications, The town itself was 
very ancient, and is mentioned as far back as the 
> time of Charlemagne. The castle, as well as the 
town, was probably built in the time of the king 
of the Franks. 

A league and a half from Kronberg is Ursel, 
situated in the middle of a beautiful country co- 
vered with woods, near a rivulet, which gives rao- 
! tion to several mills and copper founderies. It 
has an old and remarkable church. This place 
was formerly part of the country of Konigstein. 
Towards the end of the 16th century, it had a 
printing office, the works executed by which are 
become very scarce. 

A league distant from Ursel, is Hamburg vor 
der Hoke, the residence of a branch of the Princes 
of Hesse, who are descendants of Frederick I. 
grandson of Philip the Generous. In the walls 
of the old tower, called the White Tower, are se- 
veral stones with Roman inscriptions, that have 
been found in the environs. This castle is the 
remnant of the ancient one, which was probably 
erected on the ruins of a strong castle of the Ro- 
mans. The new castle was built in 1680, by the 



264 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



Landgrave Frederick II., whose figure, in stone 
and in bronze, may be seen over the gate of the 
castle. The town of Homburg is indebted for 
the embellishment of its environs to the late 
prince. Every step in the vicinity of the town 
recalls to the mind the ancient conquerors of the 
world. The Heidengraben (Pagan's Ditch), the 
wall called Weisse Maur, the road of Thahvegs- 
berg, the mountain of Altkonig, and many other 
places, bear evident marks of them. We have 
already mentioned the castle of Saalburg, or Seul- 
burg. It is situated a league from Homburg, and 
appears to have been the fort built by Drusus, 
and destroyed by Hermann. Germanicus rebuilt 
it, when, in conjunction with Cacinna, he made 
an expedition against the Cattes, in which he 
burnt their principal town, called Mattium. 
Saalburg is situated on the top of a mountain, 
and its form is an oblong square, 280 feet in 
length, and 180 in breadth. In 1781 was disco- 
vered, not far from this place, a Roman bath, in 
which were several utensils and stones with in- 
scriptions of the 22d legion. In the time of the 
Franks there was a castle here called Sala, whence 
the name of Saalburg is derived. On the north- 
east, about a league distant, are the traces of 
another fort, called Kapersburg, which is sup- 
posed by some to be the Palas, or Kapellatium, 
of the ancients. 

If the traveller has not visited the mountains 
Altkonig and Feldherg, from Konigstein, or from 
Kronberg, he may go to them from Homburg. At 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 265 

| the top of the Altkonig. Brunehault, Queen of 
the Franks, erected a room, in order that she 
might view the whole of her extensive dominions 
with the first rays of the rising sun. The pro- 
spect from it is beautiful ; a vast country extends 
around the spectator, bordered by three chains of 
i mountains, between which flow the Rhine and 
! the Maine. One of these chains extends from the 
| Taunus as far as Coblentz and Bonn, including 
I in this space the beautiful heights, planted with 
vines, which reach from Hochheim to Rudesheim. 
On this chain of mountains, likewise, are several 
! old castles. On the other side of the Maine ap- 
I pears the Malchen, with its White Tower. Seve- 
j ral branches diverge from this mountain, which 
' extend a considerable distance into the forest of 
\ Odenwald, and form on the right the beautiful 
valley of the Neckar. On the other side of the 
Rhine is Mont To?inerre, which rises like a giant 
over the surrounding mountains : on its sides are 
the mountains of the Haardt and the Vosges, 
which form the separation between Alsace and 
Lorraine, and unite their branches with those of 
the Alps. On the north side of the Altkonig 
commences a chain of mountains, which extends 
out of sight. The ruins of the ancient forts of 
Konigstein and Kronenberg appear below, and 
an immense number of towns and villages tend 
to adorn this beautiful prospect. 

In these environs is another old castle, in good 
repair, which is called Reiffenberg. It is situated 
at the foot of the northern part of the Feldberg, 
2 A 



266 EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 

and is shaded by a wood of oaks, intermixed 
with elms and palm trees. The Knights of Reif- 
fenberg signalized themselves in more than one 
bloody combat, and in 1374 they took by assault 
the fort of Konigstein. Philip Louis, the last of 
this family, died in captivity, in 1686; and by | 
the marriage of his sister, the castle of Reiffen- 
berg passed to the Counts of Waldpott-Bassen- 
heim. 

Behind ReifFenberg, at the top of a hill covered 
with wood, are the ruins of the old castle of 
Hattstein, which was destroyed in 1432. 

Three leagues from Horn burg is Friedberg. In 
his way to it, the tourist passes Kloppenheim, with 
a Gothic church. Near Karbach are mineral 
springs no longer used ; and on the opposite hill 
stands the old abbey of Ilmstcedt. 

Friedberg was formerly an imperial town, but is 
now of little importance. The castle commands 
a fine view of the beautiful territory forming the 
Wetterau. The environs of Friedberg contain 
many monuments relating to the ancient history 
of Germany. The Usipetes and the Cattes inha- 
bited this country, and sustained several battles 
against the Romans. In the vicinity, several 
Roman monuments have been discovered. The 
Carlovingian kings had very probably a palace 
at this place, and there is still a bath which 
dates from the period when they lived. Under 
the government of the Franks, this country re- 
ceived the name of Wettergau, derived from the 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 267 

I 

I small river Wetter, which crosses it. This dis- 
, trict was very extensive, and included twelve 
I counties, and many imperial towns, such as 
Frankfort, Gelnhausen, Friedberg, &c. 

Friedberg was rebuilt by Frederick I. and the 
castle which he erected on the ruins of the an- 
I cient palace probably bore the name of Fried- 
| richsburg, which was afterwards given to the 
j town. The emperors of the house of Hohen- 
stauffen occasionally resided here. Frederick II. 
1 embellished the town, and granted it numerous 
privileges. Friedberg had likewise the right of 
| holding a great fair ; but this was transferred to 
Frankfort, in 1340, by the Emperor Louis IV. 
The principal objects in Friedberg worthy of no- 
tice are, — the Well called the Jews' Bath ; seve- 
! ral subterranean vaults, one of which is in the 
form of a rotunda, with an opening at the top ; 
and the principal church, erected in the 13th 
century. In the environs of Friedberg are 
numerous ruins of ancient buildings, whence 
it is supposed that the town was formerly much 
larger. 

Inns. The Three Swords, and the Town of 
Darmstadt. There is also a posthouse. 

Rather less than half a league from Friedberg 
is the mineral spring of Schwalheim, which is said 
to contain nearly the same substances as the wa- 
ter of Schwalbach, but has not the same repu- 
tation, and is only drunk by the neighbouring in- 
habitants. The environs are dreary. 



i 



268 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



From this place the traveller may make a plea- 
sant excursion to the salt works of Nauheim. \ 
The meadows of the Wetter bear some resem- I 
blance to the valleys of the Vosges. At a dis- 
tance are seen the little town of Hockenhausen, I 
and a convent of nuns on the Munzenberg, and I 
following the Wetter Arnsberg, the famous abbey j ] 
of Lick. 

Quitting this part of the Taunus, the traveller 
reaches Nanmburg ; whence crossing the Kinz, he i 
will pass along the Freygericht, the villages of ! 
which belong partly to Hesse and partly to May- 
en ce, and enjoy peculiar privileges, which render i 
the banks of the Kahl very populous. This valley 
may be ascended from Alsenau to Kaltenberg. 1 
But proceeding in a right line through Somborn, 
we arrive at Gelnhausen, where may still be seen 
a part of the palace inhabited by Frederick Bar- 
barossa. The first objects which attract the tra- I 
veller's attention on approaching this ancient im- 
perial town, are the steeples of the convent of the 
Trinity ; and as soon as he enters the place he 
will perceive the remains of the church of St. 
Peter, the architecture of which is very remark- 
able. It is that called modern Greek architec- \ 
ture, which was adopted and followed in every i 
part of Europe at the time of the Crusades, as well j 
as for some time before. Gelnhausen was preferred 
by Frederick I. surnamed Barbarossa, to every 
other place in his immense empire, as a spot for 
the erection of a castle. Tradition asserts that 
it was not the beauty of the environs of the 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 269 

Kinzf* but that of a lady, named Gela, which in- 
fluenced his choice. The ancient palace of the 
emperor is at the foot of the town, in the Burg, 
in the midst of a delightful valley, bordered by 
the chain of mountains which forms the junction 
between the mountains called Rhinegebiirg, in 
I Franconia, and those called Vogelsburg, in the 
I Wetterau. It is situated on an island, formed 
I by the Kinzig, and is surrounded by mountains, 
j crowned with woods, hills, and plains, which 
form a delightful landscape. 

To judge from what remains of this palace, an 
! entire rock must have been used in its erection. 
All the walls are composed of two rows of large 
hewn stones, ornamented on the outside in the 
Tuscan style. The entrance, which is on the west 
1 side of the wall, is a very simple structure. In 
the part of this wall which is very dilapidated, 
and against which several new houses have been 
built, is a very lofty tower of immense size. In 
the inner court of the palace is a head of reddish 
stone with a long beard, representing Frederick 
Barbarossa. On the left were the apartments of 
the emperor ; and in that part which still remains, 
commonly called Reichssaal (Imperial Hall,) that 
monarch was accustomed to administer justice, 
surrounded by his nobility. Over the gate the 
Reichssaal joins the chapel, and on the side of 
it is a large tower. 

* The Kinz is a small river of the country of Fulde, which 
runs from Schluchtern, through Saalmunster, Gelnhausen, 
and Hanau. 

% A 3 



270 



EXCURSION FROM COBLENTZ 



The great wall, in which are arches supported 
by columns, is a remnant of the principal front 
of the ReichssaaL Through these arches, on the 
left, may be seen the convent of the Trinity, and 
at some distance from it the upper gate of the 
town of Gelnhausen, and beyond the^ entrance 
gate of the Reich ssaal are the remains of the 
throne of Barbarossa. In the distance appear 
the walls which formed the enclosure of the court. 
At the end of this principal front is the Meesthor, 
where fairs were usually held ; and above this is 
the chapel, the walls of which were partly re- 
stored under the reign of the Emperor Sigismund. 

The upper part of the front of the Reichssaal 
has been taken away, and the area filled up. 
The only parts remaining are the arches before 
mentioned. In these remains is preserved a 
beautiful specimen of ancient Gothic architec- 
ture, or rather of what is called modern Greek 
architecture. 

The staircases that lead to the halls have been 
destroyed, and only the entrance to the palace 
remains uninjured. The ornaments of this en- 
trance, and the manner in which the light is ad- 
mitted, very much resemble Moorish architecture. 
Over small columns are arabesques, formed with 
foliage and human figures. On each side of 
these arabesques are placed arches, which dis- 
tinguish modern Greek architecture from the 
ancient colonnades and arches which were after- 
wards introduced by the Goths. The whole en- 
trance presents a great mass of stone ; that is to 



TO THE BATHS OF THE TAUNUS. 271 

say, a wall of considerable thickness to support 
the arches. In this wall are several openings, each 
having a double row of small columns, through 
which the light enters. Above these small co- 
lumns are chapiters, which reach to the upper 
part of the roof. 1 The bases of all the columns, 
as well as the principal front, are of the Attic 
order. 

A wall, constructed some time since, partly 
, conceals the entrance to the hall. In the inte- 
rior are two columns, which support the six 
arches on which the ceiling of the chapel rests. 
On the outside are three other columns, one of 
which is ornamented with eagles. In the chapel 
are pillars and columns which are ornamented 
with great taste. The walls of the tower, at a 
short distance, are very thick, and formerly sup- 
ported a large arch, which formed a separation 
in its interior. The wall forming the enclosure 
of the entire building is in many places more than 
thirty feet above the level of the Kinzig. 

It was probably about the year 1144) that 
Frederic I. inhabited the imperial palace of 
Gelnhausen. When this emperor afterwards un- 
dertook his expedition to Palestine, he assigned 
this palace as a residence to several noble fami- 
lies of Gelnhausen and its environs, and left them 
instructions respecting the manner in which they 
were to act in superintending the district belong- 
ing to the castle, and in administering justice at 
the courts held there. The number of these fa- 
milies considerably increased, and in 1366 the 



272 



EXCURSION FROM C0BLENT2. 



Emperor Charles IV. granted them the same 
rights and privileges as those enjoyed by the 
lords of the castle of Friedberg. During the thirty 
years' war the Swedes laid siege to it, because 
it was garrisoned by the emperor's troops, and 
on that occasion this beautiful palace was de- 
stroyed. 



273 

I . " 



EXCURSION 

FROM COBLENTZ TO TREVES. 

Although Treves is only twenty-four leagues 
from Coblentz, if the traveller wishes to follow 
the course of the Moselle, he must pass over a 
| space of forty-nine leagues. The excursion by 
| water is more interesting than that by land, as 
, the banks of the Moselle abound with fine views, 
; and each village or group of mountains forms by 
itself a delightful landscape ; but the river being 
difficult of ascent, the traveller had better pro- 
I ceed by land, and afterwards descend the river 
I on his return. 

There is a diligence from Coblentz to Treves 
! which accomplishes the journey in one day. The 
fare is five francs. A coche d'eau goes every 
week between Coblentz and Cochen. It sets 
out on Monday at nine o'clock from Cochen, and 
arrives at Coblentz in the evening, if the weather 
be favourable; if not, it stops at Ley for the 
night. It returns on Friday in summer, and on 
Thursday in winter. It is capable of containing 
sixty or seventy persons, but the accommodation 
is by no means good. The fare is about a franc 
for every ten leagues. 

If the traveller intends to perform the journey 
on foot, he should not follow the high road 
through Polch and Luzerath, which is extremely 

I 



274 



EXCURSION FROM 



dull, but walk along the bank as much as pos- 
sible. The first place that he reaches on the l 
banks of the Moselle is ll r eiss, where there is a 
public garden. Opposite to Weiss is Guls, where 
large quantities of cherries are gathered, a great 
number of which are sent to Cologne. 
Lin. The Anchor. 

After having passed these two places, the tra- I 
veller reaches a chain of mountains, the cultiva- 
tion of which is extremely difficult, and in many I . 
places impracticable. Thence the road leads to 
the village of Lei/, which takes its name from the 
old German word Lei/, signifying rock. Not far 1 [ 
from this place is the castle whence the Counts 
of Leyen derived their origin, which is traced [ t 
back as far as a Roman knight of the name of 
Petra, who lived in the time of the Emperor I 
Claudius, and who settled in the environs of 
Treves. The traveller next proceeds to Oberwin- 
nigen and Unterwinnigen. The first is a market- 
town containing 190 houses. It is nearly two 5 i 
leagues from Coblentz, and formerly made part of I 1 
the county of Sponheim. The inhabitants are I 
Protestants, whilst all their neighbours are Ca- 
tholics. The vine has flourished on the sur- 
rounding hills for several centuries, but its cul- 
tivation requires great care. Near a small island 
in the river, is a spot called Zeihfurt, which is 
dangerous to the inexperienced. In the valley : 
of Conderthal, to the right of the Moselle, are 
several mills, a mineral spring, and the ruins of 
the castle of Meffartshaus. 



COBLENTZ TO TREVES. 275 

A league higher is Dciblich, on the right bank, 

and Cobern on the left. 

At Cobern the rivulet Nadbach falls into the 
j Moselle. This place made a considerable figure 
\ in the history of the 8th century ; it had then 
■ two castles, called the lower and the upper castle, 
i or Altenburg, of which some ruins still exist. It 

has also a chapel, which is a remarkable specimen 
| of ancient German architecture, and is supposed 

to have been erected in the time of the Crusades. 

In the neighbouring forest of Stoperwald is the 

ancient convent of Marienroth, one league from 

Cobern. 

The traveller then passes successively the 
pretty villages of Gondorf on the left, and Nieder- 
fell on the right bank. Near the latter is Char, 
and opposite is Oberliemen. 

A league-higher on the right bank is Oberfell, 
and on the same side Kattenes, or Cattenes, the 
name of which is supposed by some to be derived 
from the Latin word catance, but with more pro- 
bability, by others, from the German Katten- 
Esch, which signifies a marshy meadow. Op- 
posite is the market-town of Aiken, where may 
be seen the ruins of an old castle, commonly 
called Turant. Its original name was Thoron, 
or Thorn, which is derived from the form of a 
mountain where it was constructed by the Pfalz- 
grave (palatine count) Henry, as a defence 
against his brother Otto. 

A number of villages and market-towns then 
present themselves, namely, Lof, or Loew, with 



276 



EXCURSION FROM 



the neighbouring ruins of Honiburg, Brodenbach 
half a league higher, and Ehrenburg. Hatzeny- 
fort is much higher on the left. Loew and Hat- 
zenpfort have both good inns. 

Rohm and Bur gen, which follow, are only se- f 
parated by a rivulet which descends from the 
Hundsruck. Opposite are the ruins of the castle 
of Bischofstein (bishop's stone), which was built by 
Nicetas, Bishop of Treves, in the 6th century. 

On the right bank, a league higher, is the 
market- town of Kern, where the torrent of the 
Elz falls into the Moselle. On this torrent, one 
league from Kern> is the market-town of Elz, and 
the castle of the same name, situated in the 
country of Mayenfeld. Bishop Baldwin laid i 
siege to this castle in 1391, but not being able 
to gain possession of it, he built the castle of 
Baldenelz, in its vicinity. Munster Mayfeld is 
half a league to the right of Elz. It is a small ] 
town, in the church of which are some ancient 
tombs of distinguished families. In another direc- 
tion, half a league from Elz, are the ruins of the 
castle of Pyrmont, where the river Elz makes a pic- 
turesque cascade. 

Still higher up the Moselle is the village of 
Muden, opposite to the mouth of the Litz or 
Lutz. Half a league farther, on the left bank, 
is the little town of Carden, the ancient Cardena 
of the Romans. It has a casino and an inn. J 
Near Carden, the rivulet Werbach falls into the 
Moselle. Opposite to this place, on the point 



C0BLENTZ TO TREVES. 277 

! of a high rock, is the hermitage of Zillesberg, 
whence there is a fine view of the surrounding 
country. 

Not a quarter of a league from Garden is Treis, 
a market- town of 200 houses. 

From Treis the distance to Beilstein, or to 
| Zelt, is eight leagues by water, or three leagues 
across the mountains. Another route is by the 
Hundsruck to Bacharach and the Rhine. Fol- 
lowing the course of the river, the traveller 
reaches the village of Pommem, where an ex- 
cellent red wine is made. Not far from P o Ri- 
mer n, at the top of a mountain, appear the traces 
of an ancient Roman camp. A league beyond 
it, in the interior of the country, is the ancient 
convent of Rosenthal, in a wild but picturesque 
situation. 

The next village which the traveller sees on 
the banks of the Moselle is Klotten, or Clotten, 
with the ruins of the castle of Klottenburg. In 
the 11th century, Richeza, daughter of Count 
Ehrenfried, and Queen of Poland, built a chapel 
at this place, where she came with her ladies to 
offer up prayers. The castle was given as a 
present to the Elector of Treves by the Emperor 
Adolphus. 

From Klotten the traveller proceeds to the 
small town of Kochem, or Cochem, formerly called 
Kochenheim. It contains 1000 houses, and the 
inhabitants are very industrious. The country 
produces very little corn, but a large quantity of 
2 B 



27S 



EXCURSION FROM 



wine, which, however, is only ranked amongst 
the middling wines of the Moselle. The town 
contains cloth manufactories. It had formerly a 
royal palace and a Roman fort. 

Inns. The Anchor, and the Roman King. 

As already stated, a coche d'eau goes from 
this place to Coblentz. 

From this place the traveller may make an 
excursion of three leagues to the baths of Ber- 
trich. The road passes at first through a wild 
and dreary country, but at the bottom of the 
mountains suddenly changes to a delightful val- 
ley. It is said that a hermit named Bertrich 
established his residence at this place in the 
13th or 14th century, since which the spring 
of warm water has been used as a bath. These 
baths, however, were always in a bad state 
till 1760, when the Elector of Treves appropri- 
ated a sum of 150,000 rix dollars for their better 
maintenance. A large stone building was then 
constructed, containing fourteen bathing-rooms, 
arched over, to which the water is conveyed by 
pipes. This water comes from a spring at the 
bottom of the valley. Its heat, by Reaumur, is 
24°, and its smell resembles that of hydrogen im- 
pregnated with sulphur. The surrounding ground 
contains slate, interspersed with veins of basaltes. 
There are several good inns at Bertrich. The 
season is at its height in August. 

The country has a very singular appearance. 
It is a narrow and deep valley, enclosed between 
high and steep mountains, which are crowned 



COBLENTZ TO TREVES. 279 

' with forests. A torrent rolls its waters to the 
j bottom of the valley, on the sides of which there 
! are several smaller valleys of equal beauty: there 
j is a cascade, formed by the water in front of a 
j grotto, and a little beyond it is seen a double 
! row of basaltic rocks, of conical shape, resem- 
l bling a colonnade. Several footpaths lead to 
I the top of a rock, whence there are various fine 
! prospects. 

j The road, on quitting Bertrich, passes at first 
through the forest, and afterwards through corn 
fields, till it reaches the small town of Wittlich, 

i where there is a post station. The post-house is 
a good inn. 

If the traveller, on leaving Kochem, follows the 
course of the Moselle, he will first perceive the 
priory of Ebernach, and then arrive at the small 
town of Beilstein, with not more than twenty 
houses. On a neighbouring mountain is the 
castle of Beilstein, which belonged to the Counts 
(now Princes) of Metternich-Winneburg, and 
which was inhabited for many years by that 
family. In the town is a suppressed convent of 
Carmelites, with a curious prison for confining 
the monks. The traveller then crosses several 
villages and market-towns, and arrives at the ruins 
of Marienburg. This is a convent of nuns, si- 
tuated on a steep rock, and defended by towers, 
ditches, and drawbridges, which Archbishop 
Baldwin converted into a fort in 1.514. The 
Pope's warrant, which authorized the seculari- 
zation of the convent, assigned as the principal 



280 



EXCURSION FROM 



motive, that the situation of the convent would 
tempt some enemy to gain possession of it, and 
that then the virtue of the nuns would be very 
much exposed, as they would not be able to de- 
fend the place. 

Near Marienburg the river forms an immense 
bend, which the traveller had better not follow, 
since it first makes the tour of the mountain 
on the right side, and then retrogrades, after a 
course of some leagues, in order to pass the same 
mountain on the left side. 

From Marienburg the road leads to the small 
town of Zell, passing through Merl, beyond which 
the country becomes more fertile in corn, and 
likewise produces a large quantity of wine, fruits, 
and flax. 

The best inn at Zell is that kept by M. Koch. 

Near the village of Reil was formerly the boun- 
dary of the county of Sponheim. 

Enkirchen with 300 houses, is one of the most 
important places on the Moselle. Near it are 
the ruins of a Pagan temple. Half a league from 
Enkirchen is the castle of Starkenburg ; formerly 
the residence of the Counts of Sponheim-Star- 
kenburg, but now only a heap of ruins. Near 
Enkirchen also is Stephansberg (Mount St. Ste- 
phen), where an excellent wine is produced. 

From this place the road leads to Trarbach, 
the ancient capital of the county of Sponheim, 
where there are not more than 1 70 houses ; but 
it is remarkable for its history and situation. It 
is said to have been the place called Thronus 



COBLENTZ TO TREVES. 



281 



Bacchi, in the time of the Romans ; and traces 
of the Roman road from Treves to the Rhine are 

| still visible. Ausonius makes mention of a co- 
lony of Sauromates established in this country. 
The town of Trarbach, as it now stands, owes its 
existence to Lauretta of Solms, a woman of great 
courage, who had married Count Henry II. of 
Sponheim. Archbishop Baldwin of Treves, of 

I the House of Luxemburg, a very powerful man, 
(for he had successively placed two emperors on 

I the throne of Germany,) was perpetually harass- 
ing his neighbours ; amongst whom was the 
Countess Lauretta, then a widow, whose vassals 
and land were continually the objects of his at- 

i tack. But the Countess acted with great reso- 
lution ; and one day, when the archbishop was 
descending the Moselle in a boat, she caused 
him to be arrested near Starkenburg, and con- 
fined a prisoner in her castle till he had paid a 
ransom of 60,000 gold florins. With this money 
she built, half a league from Starkenburg, the 
castle of Grafinburg, and by the side of it the 
town of Trarbach ; both which she made very 
strong. She likewise established a line of defence 
between Grafinburg and Starkenburg. 

The situation of Trarbach is beautiful, as well 
as healthy. Several small torrents fall into the 
Moselle at this place, which is surrounded by 
mountains, hills covered with vines, and fertile 
valleys. The church is the most conspicuous 
object in the town ; it contains the brass tomb 
of John IV,, the last Count of Sponheim, who 
2 b 3 



282 



EXCURSION FROM 



died in 1437. The building called Kellereyhof, 
an ancient convent of Templars, deserves notice 
on account of its large hall, the roof of which is 
supported by columns. The trade of Trarbach 
consists principally in wine, meat, madder, lea- 
ther, wool, lime, &c. 

Inns. The Golden Stag, the Red Ox, the 
Golden Crown. 

No trace of the castle of Grqfinburg is now 
visible. The fort was taken in 1 734 by the French, 
who entirely destroyed it. The principal hills, 
covered with vineyards, in the environs, are called 
Unterberg, Aalfang, Munchroth, or Muhlrecher- 
berg, and Landfuhrberg. The only kind of vine 
cultivated is that called Riessling. 

Opposite Trarbach, on the banks of the river, 
is the old market-town of Trahen. The two 
placjes are connected by a flying bridge. Traben, 
which is the ancient Trarenna, was a flourishing 
place during the reign of the Carlovingian kings. 
Louis the Devout gave to the royal chapter of 
Aix-la-Chapelle the tithes collected at Traben, 
and the chapter built a farm and church there, 
to which many chapels in the environs are sub- 
ject. Behind this markeUtown is the mountain 
of Trabenberg, where an excellent wine is pro- 
duced. On the summit of this mountain the 
French fort of Mont Royal was situated. Louis 
XIV. caused it to be constructed by Vauban, in 
order to further his ambitious projects, which 
were frustrated by the peace of Ryswick, and 
the fort of Mont Royal was rased in 1697. 



COBLE NTZ TO TREVES. 283 

Above Trarbach, on the banks of the river, is 
the small village of Risbach, with an old chapel ; 
and a league from Trarbach may be seen the 
market-town of IVolf, not far from the mountain 
of Gipfelberg, where there are the ruins of an 
ancient convent. A league and a half from 
Trarbach is the market-town of Crbff, (called 
Crov in ancient writings,) on the left bank of 
the Moselle. In the 9th century the abbey of 
Echternach possessed a church and several vine- 
1 yards at this place. This district in the middle 
age became a royal domain, and the Lords of 
\ Dhaun, who resided in the Eiffel, performed the 
office of provost, which belonged to them by he- 
reditary right. Persons who resided there were 
called Perlinge, or People of Peter (i. e. under 
I the protection of St. Peter) ; a denomination 
which they still retain. An excellent wine is 
produced in the environs of Croff. 

Both sides of the river now appear covered 
! with villages, market-towns, and convents. The 
first place is the market- town of Erden, situated 
at the entrance of the ancient county of Spon- 
heim, where a good wine is produced ; the tra- 
veller then proceeds to the convent of nuns of 
IV ac hern and Nachtig, and to the market-town 
of Zeltingen* The environs produce a great 
quantity of wine- M. Eilinkhuysen, who resides 
at this place, carries on an extensive wine trade 
on the Moselle : at some distance higher may be 
seen the farm of Martinshof, which was former- 
ly the property of the Knights of Malta ; and 
beyond it Wehkn, and the village of Krack 



284 



EXCURSION FROM 



The traveller then reaches the small town of 
Bernkastel, where the ruins of an old castle may 
be seen. It contains 1600 inhabitants, and is 
situated at the extremity of the chain of moun- 
tains forming the Hundsriick, which extends from 
this place towards the Rhine, following the di- 
rection of the Nah. The old castle was probably 
erected by the Romans. At the commencement 
of the 11th century it formed part of the pos- 
sessions of the provost of St. Paulin Adalbert, a 
powerful and enterprising man, of the House of 
Luzelburg, who, however, was compelled to give 
it up to Archbishop Poppo of Treves, by whom 
it was destroyed. A Count of Castel rebuilt the 
castle during the reign of Frederick I., but the 
Archbishop of Treves soon regained it, and en- 
larged as well as strengthened it. Its situation 
is one of the most beautiful on the Moselle. It 
was consumed by fire in 1692, when a great 
number of pictures and other valuable articles 
were destroyed. The inhabitants of Bernkastel 
are very industrious, and carry on an extensive 
trade in wine and slates. In the vicinity of this 
town there is a lead mine. 

Inns. The Golden Grape, and the Three Kings. 

Opposite Bernkastel is an hospital, which was 
founded and richly endowed by Cardinal Nicolas 
of Cusa (Cusani). This prelate, who was equally 
known for his great learning and political influ- 
ence, was the son a poor fisherman, of the 
village of Cus, situated opposite Bernkastel, in 
the midst of a country which is extremely pro- 



COBLENTZ TO TREVES. 



285 



ductive of corn and wine. His heart is deposited 
in the village church, under a sepulchral marble 
stone. The village of Lyser, situated in the 
vicinity, is the natal place of his equally learned 
companion John iLesuranus* 

A league and a half from Bernkastel is the 
market- town of Muhlheim, or Muhlen, where the 
rivulet Milhlbach joins the Moselle. It contains 
about 700 inhabitants. Opposite is seen the 
village of Lyser, just mentioned, where the river 
of that name falls into the Moselle. 

The road from Mayence to the Hundsriick 
crosses the Moselle at Bernkastel, where boats 
may always be obtained to convey horses and 
carriages. The Braunenberg at Muhlheim and 
the Anchor at Lyser are good inns, 

Half a league from Muhlheim up the Miihlbach 
is the small town of Veldenz^ which contains 
nearly 800 inhabitants. The Counts of Veldenz, 
whose castle was situated at this place, were de- 
scendants of the ancient Counts of Nahgau. 
The castle, which was a tenure of the bishops of 
Verdun, is more ancient than the town. It was 
burnt in the thirty years* war, and only some 
ruins of it are now visible. In the valley, and 
at the foot of the mountain of Schlossberg, are 
some copper mines. The surrounding country 
is picturesque. 

From Muhlheim we proceed along the banks 
of the river, to Dusemont, which is a league west 
of Veldenz. The wine produced in this territory 
and in that of the district of Brauenberg, is con- 



286 



EXCURSION FROM 



sidered to be of a very superior quality. After 
passing through several villages, the traveller pro- 
ceeds to Emmel, to Minnheim, (of which mention 
is made in an old writing of 1052,) and to Pies* 
port, (called Potzport in ancient writings,) where 
an excellent wine is made. A league from this j 
place, at the foot of some mountains, is the con- 
vent of Eberhardsklaue, which formerly contained 
a valuable library. A poor peasant of Piesport, 
named Eberhard, came to live at this place, and 
constructed a cottage and a chapel with the 
money that he had begged in the adjacent coun- f 
try. A short time afterwards it became a celebra- . 
ted place of pilgrimage ; and in 1456 a sufficient 
fund was accumulated to build a convent and 
church, instead of the cottage and chapel. 

The Moselle now makes numerous bends, being 1 
obliged to follow the direction of the mountains; 
and if the traveller continues his route along its 
banks, to his great astonishment, after several 
hours' walk, he will find himself at the same point 
that he set out at. The Moselle receives the 
Trone in the vicinity of the small village of Tron. 
Thence the traveller proceeds to Neumagen, the 
ancient Noviomagum, a market- town containing | 
1000 inhabitants, where may be seen the ruins 
of an old castle. In this place is a curious tower, 
built of freestone, which was erected by the Ro- 
mans, and still bears marks of inscriptions and 
bas-reliefs. It is supposed that Constantine the 
Great established his camp on a height near this 
town. 



1 



C0BLENTZ TO TREVES. 



287 



From Neumagen the traveller goes to Tritten- 
heim, the natal place of the celebrated John Tri- 
themius, the author of several historical works, 
and of many other writings. He was first abbot 
of the convent of Sponheim, situated on the 
Hundsriick, and afterwards filled the same office 
at the Scotch convent of St. James at Wiirzburg, 
where he died. 

Both sides of the river now exhibit a range of 
villages, which formerly belonged to several rich 
convents of the Electorate of Treves. The tra- 
veller soon reaches Riol, (called Reol in ancient 
writings,) in the vicinity of which is the old 
castle of Riegelsburg, the Rigodulum of the Ro- 
mans, surrounded by high mountains. At this 
place the rivulet Laubach falls into the Moselle ; 
and, at a short distance from it, near the village 
of Lungwich, is a spring of mineral water. The 
Kyll joins the Moselle near Erang, or Ering, 
From the latter place, the traveller proceeds to 
Pfalzei, or Pfalz 9 a league from Treves. Pfalzei 
contains more than 900 inhabitants; and several 
pretty buildings on the banks of the river give 
it a delightful appearance. In the environs of 
Pfalzei may still be seen the remains of several 
ancient entrenchments, which were made by 
the Electors of Treves, in order that they might 
have near them a 1 place of refuge during the dis- 
sensions between them and the town of Treves, 
which often occurred. The Romans had an esta- 
blishment at this place ; and, during the reign 
of the kings of the Franks, Pfalzei had a royal 



288 



EXCURSION FROM 



palace and a large farm belonging to the crown. 
At this farm, Adela, daughter of King Dago- 
bert II., built in 655 a convent of nuns, on which 
she bestowed the whole of her property. In 
1027, Archbishop Poppo made this convent a 
collegiate chapter. 

The traveller now reaches 

TREVES. 

This ancient and celebrated town is situated 
in the centre of a beautiful valley, four leagues 
in extent, which is open to the S.E. and N.W. 
Treves stands in the narrowest part of the val- 
ley which is crossed by the river Moselle. At 
the west and upper part of this valley the Saar 
falls into the Moselle. 

The town was called, in the^time of the Romans, 
Civitas Treierorum, and Augusta Treterorum. 
Treves and Soleure are considered the oldest 
towns in Europe. When the Romans extended 
their conquests in Gaul as far as the Rhine, 
they found that the town of Treves already con- 
tained houses of elegant architecture, and inha- 
bitants in some degree civilized. The beauty of 
the country, and the fertility of the soil, deter- 
mined the Romans under the reign of Augustus, j 
and immediately after the division of Gaul, to 
make it the seat of government. Treves then 
became the chief place of Belgium, and was 
often the residence of the Roman emperors. 
Constantine the Great, when dividing the Roman I 
empire into governments, assigned the town of 



COBLENTZ TO TREVES. 



289 



Treves as a place of residence to the prefect of 
Gaul, who had the government of Gaul, pro- 
perly so called, of Spain, and of Roman Britain ; 
and it was not till the invasion of the Germans 
that this residence was transferred to Aries. 
Several Roman laws are dated from Treves, coins 
l were struck there,, and legions dressed with cloth, 
| and provided with accoutrements from its manu- 
| factories. 

The Franks afterwards gained possession of 
the country, and destruction marked the first 
steps of these new conquerors. They united 
Treves to the empire of Austrasia ; and several 
kings, amongst whom were Theodoric, Theode- 
bert, Clotaire, and Sigebert, established their 
court at Treves, by which means it obtained 
many rights and privileges. It afterwards fell 
into the hands of the Germans, and again re- 
verted to the Franks, till Emperor Otto united 
it to the empire. Treves was perpetually the 
scene of contest between its citizens and the 
bishops, which terminated in favour of the for- 
mer, who were permitted to form themselves into 
corporations and choose their own magistrates. 
In this manner Treves obtained its own form of 
government, which it maintained till its union 
with France. 

The town is situated on the right bank of the 
Moselle, and extends half a league in length, 
but the interior has many large gardens. It is 
surrounded by a plain, four leagues long and 
half a league broad, which commences at the 
2 c 



290 



EXCURSION FROM 



mouth of the Saar, and terminates at that of the 
Moselle. Above and below the town are small 
villages, which appear like its suburbs. The in- 
terior is not without attractions. The streets 
are most of them regular and broad, and there 
are several fine buildings. Treves was formerly 
the seat of the civil and ecclesiastical courts of 
justice of the electorate, of a grand chapter, of 
a university, and of a school for the education 
of priests. It had six convents of monks, and 
ten convents of nuns. The population amounts 
to 13,000. 

The most remarkable buildings are, — 1. The 
ancient Palace of the Elector, which has been 
converted into barracks. 2. The Buildings 
where the prefecture and imperial court of jus- 
tice were held during the French government. — 
3. The Church of Notre Dame, which was built 
between 1227 and 1243, and is one of the finest 
specimens of German architecture. — 4. The 
Church of St. Simeon, a very ancient building, 
which is said to have been used by the Gauls 
for their public meetings, and by the Romans as 
their capitol. It has two grand arches, which 
once formed the entrance of the town ; and, as 
these were used as a gate and were black, it is 
called Black Gate. This building has lately 
been restored to its original beautiful form. — 5. 
The Church of St. Paulinus in one of the sub- 
urbs. The proportions are well contrived, and 
the ceiling is painted. — 6. The Cathedral Church 
of St. Peter, which is of an irregular form. It 



C0BLENTZ TO TREVES. 



291 



is built on a small hill, and ornamented with 
beautiful altars and a marble gallery. 

The University was transformed, during the 
government of the French, into a lyceum, un- 
der the direction of M. Wyttenbach, and this 
has been again changed into a gymnasium. 
A society has been established for several 
I years at Treves under the denomination of So- 
1 ciety for Useful Researches, and it has collected 
| a museum of antiquities, which contains many 
curious objects. This society likewise possesses 
i a cabinet of mineralogy, containing numerous 
| fossils from the environs of the Moselle, and a 
collection of plants, as well as one of medals, 
vases, a cabinet of zoology, &c. 

The architectural monuments at Treves are,— 
1. The Moselle Bridge, which is 690 feet in 
length, 24 in breadth, and has 8 arches. The 
piers are supposed to be of Roman construction, 
but the arches were rebuilt after their destruc- 
tion by the French in 1729. — 2. The Roman 
Amphitheatre, a quarter of a league from the 
Black Gate. It was in good preservation till the 
1 8th century, but is now almost entirely destroy- 
ed. An engraved view of it may be seen in 
Wyttenbach's History of Treves. — 3. The ruins 
of the Constantine Palace, which is situated 
where the ancient episcopal palace stood. — 4. 
The Baths in the environs of the mountain of 
Heiligenkreuzberg. They are very extensive. — 
5. The Corn-hall, at the western extremity of 
the town, not far from the Moselle. It was 



292 



EXCURSION FROM 



afterwards converted into a palace, and since in- 
to a convent of nnns. No traces now remain of 
the circus, which was situated near the baths, or 
of the summer palace of the Roman emperors at 
Conz (Contoriacum) ; but there may still be seen 
near Igel, a league and a quarter from Treves, a 
Roman pyramid ; and on the Ruwer, two leagues 
from the town, the remains of a large aqueduct. 

There were outside Treves four Benedictine 
abbeys ; those of St. Martin, St. Matthew, St. 
Marie aux Martyrs, and St. Maximin. 

St. Matthew is situated half a league from 
Treves. The origin of this convent may be 
traced as far back as the year 70 of the Chris- 
tian era, when it is said St. Eucharius came to 
reside there. It is certain that, in the 8th or 
9th century, this convent possessed a school, 
which made great exertions to ascertain the ear- 
ly history of the town of Treves. The convent 
had a very extensive library, and in the church 
may still be seen the tombs of a great number 
of bishops. 

St. Martin, which is situated on the banks of 
the river, was founded by St. Martin, Bishop of 
Tours. It was burnt by the Normans and after- 
wards by the Huns, and in 966 was rebuilt for 
the third time. The library of this convent like- 
wise contained some valuable manuscripts. 

St, Maximin is situated east of the tow T n, near 
the Moselle. It was one of the most ancient 
abbeys in Germany, although it was not founded 
by Constantine, as the monks wish to prove from 



COBLENTZ TO TREVES. 



293 



a' false document of Dagobert. In 333, Agri- 
tius, who was the first bishop of Treves, trans- 
formed the palace of the Emperor Constantine 
into a church, to which he gave the name of St. 
Maximin, as the bones of that saint were depo- 
I sited there. This abbey received many large 
I donations, and had a very extensive library, 
I with a great number of valuable manuscripts, 
j amongst which was a book of the Evangelists, 
, belonging to Ada, the sister of Charlemagne. 
1 The archives of the convent contained a great 
number of old documents relating to the Franks. 

The convent of Marie aux Martyrs, below the 
town on the banks of the Moselle, is built on 
the spot where the castle of the prefects on the 
palace of Gaul stood, and where many Chris- 
1 tians suffered martyrdom. In the 8th century, 
St. Willibrordus established a school at this con- 
vent. 

Very little trade is carried on at Treves, and 
the secularization of the chapters and convents 
put a stop to the principal sources of subsistence 
to the inhabitants. The cloth manufactory, 
which had been established many years, has 
been given up, as it only supplied cloth for 
the French troops : and the manufactory of 
blankets is inconsiderable. The greatest acti- 
vity is displayed in the dock-yards, where large 
and small vessels are constructed, and then sent 
to the banks of the Rhine for sale. 

The seminary at Treves is situated in an im- 
mense building, one wing of which contains a 
2 c 3 



294 



EXCURSION FROM 



library of 70,000 volumes, arranged in four 
rooms, The library likewise contains many ma- 
nuscripts, and some old and curious specimens 
of typography. The librarian, M. Wyttenbach, 
is affable and well-informed. The collection of 
ancient medals is also worthy of attention. 

Within a few years the church of an ancient 
convent has been converted into a theatre. 

Treves possesses several hospitals. The gar- 
rison consists of three battalions of infantry, one 
of artillery, a regiment of cavalry, and the staff 
of the brigade. 

The environs are extremely pleasant, and in 
many places resemble the fine prospects of 
Switzerland. There are several beautiful gar- 
dens round the town : the most celebrated is 
that of M. Nell, usually called Lcindchen (little 
country). The farm of the convent of St. Mat- 
thew, which likewise belongs to M. Nell, de- 
serves particular attention, as an excellent es- 
tablishment of rural economy. The estate con- 
sists of two hundred acres, enclosed by a wall, 
an elegant house, a fish-pond, and several green- 
houses, containing curious exotic plants. The 
proprietor has a great number of cattle, and is 
perpetually making experiments for the im- 
provement of agriculture. 

The mineralogist, and indeed every amateur 
of geology and natural history, should make an 
excursion from this place to the country called 
Eifel, as it affords many opportunities of observ- 
ing very curious effects of nature which have 



C0BLENTZ TO TREVES. 



295 



not yet been examined. Several members of the 
above-mentioned Society for useful research, 
have discovered a spring, the exhalations of 
which have a soporific effect on all animals, and 
sometimes cause death. They have made some 
very interesting experiments on the properties of 
this water. 

Inns. The Red House, the City of Venice, the 
Fountain, the White Horse, the Court of Treves, 
the Golden Stag, the Black Ox. 

There are diligences from Treves to Metz, 
which communicate with other towns in France. 



296 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ TO BONN, 

BY NEUWIED, ANDERNACH, AND REMAGEN. P 

i 

Below Coblentz the valley of the Rhine gra- | 
dually widens: the mountains of the Hundsruck | 
on the left terminate in its environs, and those of r 
Eifel are at some distance from the banks of the p 
river ; and a little farther to the right are the j 
heights of Westerwald, so that the traveller sees r 
before him a beautiful and grand natural pano- y 
rama. Behind him is the town of Coblentz sur- i 
rounded by high mountains, at the foot of which 
runs the Rhine, forming numerous bends, and 
before him a superb and fertile plain, that ex- 
tends along both sides of the river. On the left [ 
is Neuendorf, called the kitchen-garden of Cob- k 
lentz, which is inhabited by a great number of 
persons who construct rafts ; on the right are j>j 
several scattered houses forming the village of 
Urbar, where an excellent wine called Bleichart 
is produced. j] 

A quarter of a league from the latter place is [ 

the pretty little island of Niederworth, with the h 

hamlet of the same name. The convent founded k 

in 1242, by a lord of Helfenstein, has been de- \i 

stroyed, but its church still exists. On the left - 
bank appears the convent of Waller sheim, with 
the village of the same name. On the right is 
the suppressed convent of nuns of Besselich, on 



i 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ TO BONN. £97 



| the slope of a mountain, at the foot of which is 
the small village of Mailer, or Malt'endar, with 
I several paper mills. The traveller now perceives 
! on the right bank, opposite the island of Neu- 
worthy the market-town of Vallendar, a place of 
considerable importance, with 2600 inhabitants. 
The houses extend along the middle of a beauti- 
| ful valley,, at the end of which is the church, si- 
! tuated at the top of a small hill, that has a pic- 
1 turesque appearance. The inhabitants of this 
! market- town are very industrious : they have a 
manufactory of pitchers, and another of earthen- 
I ware, and carry on a considerable trade in cast 
! and bar-iron, wines, &c. There is also an exten- 
sive tanyard and a dockyard. 
Ian. The Emperor, 
j At some distance farther, on the left bank, are 
the villages of Kesselheim, Sebastian-Engers, Kalt- 
Engers, and Urmitz, situated in different parts 
of the plain. 

On the right, at some distance from the bank, 
is the market- town of Bendorf, famous for its iron 
foundries. It is surrounded by high mountains^ 
from the top of which there is a fine prospect. 
Th<?, traveller may see a considerable distance 
beyond Coblentz, the Rhine issuing from the 
mountains, and near that city receiving the Mo- 
selle, whence it proceeds as far as Andernach, 
where it loses itself in a defile. The vicinity of 
Neuwied, Coblentz, Kuno-Engers, and Sayn, 
render Bendorf a delightful place of residence. 
From Bendorf the traveller may go to the 



298 



fit, FROM COBLENTZ 



castle of Friedrick-sberg, which has a beautiful 
garden, and commands a fine prospect. At the 
foot of the mountain where this castle is situated,, 
are several iron foundries. The road from Thai 
Ehrenbreitstein to Neuwied passes through Ben- 
dorf, and the steam-boat which goes from May- 
ence to Cologne, takes in passengers here. The 
environs produce a great quantity of iron, pipe- 
clay, and stones. The latter are a kind of 
pumice stones, which are much used in the Lower 
Rhine and Holland to make roads that do not 
require much solidity. Bendorf must be very 
ancient, since in 1093 it was given as a present 
to the convent of Laach (ad lacum) by the Pala- 
tine Count Frederick. It has a good inn, kept 
by Krausholt. 

The surrounding country is covered with beau- 
tiful gardens and country-houses. About a 
quarter of a league from the bank of the river, 
behind Miihlhofen and between the mountain by 
which the Sayn flows into the Rhine, are the 
ruins of the old castle of the Counts of Sayn, who, 
as early as the 11th century, possessed consider- 
able influence in this country, and founded, in 
1202, the abbey of Augustines of Sayn, at a short 
distance from this place. It is said that Frederick, 
who was the first Count of Sayn, built this castle 
on his return from Spain, where he had been va- 
liantly opposing the Moors, although he was 
very young. This family became extinct in 
1246. Below these ruins may be seen a country- 



TO BONN, 



299 



house belonging to the Count of Boos Waldeck, 
I who has a fine collection of pictures. 
| In the vicinity of the Rhine, half a league from 
I this place, and two leagues from Coblentz, is 
J Kuno-Engers, with a modern castle. Engers 
j. was the chief place of the district formerly called 
j Angeresgau, and is said to have been built by 
| the Emperor Constantine. In 1317, Kuno of 
j Falkenstein, Archbishop of Treves, gained pos- 
j session of Engers, in consequence of a war be- 
tween him and the Counts of Wied and Isenburg, 
who were come to commit an act of violence on 
! his territory, by robbing the Flemish merchants 
who had assembled at Frankfort fair. In order 
to guard the navigation of the Rhine still more, 
he not only fortified the town, but built a strong 
' castle, with a tower. This castle existed till 1758, 
when it was demolished, and another erected in 
its place. It is now a summer residence of the 
Prince of Nassau Weilburg; the situation is de- 
lightful, and it commands a fine prospect. The 
park belonging to the castle is worthy of obser- 
vation. Near this place, about the centre of the 
Rhine, is a sand-bank, which is considered dan- 
gerous for heavily-laden boats and rafts. Salmon 
is caught in the environs of Engers and Urmitz, 
but the fishery is not zo profitable as that at St. 
Goar, 

The Rhine becomes broader near Engers, and 
on the left bank appears the village of JFeisse 
Tkurm (white tower), which derives its name from 



300 VII. FROM COBLENTZ 

an ancient tower situated near it. It is said to 
have been the place where the Romans first un- 
dertook the passage of the Rhine ; indeed, the k 
ground presents numerous advantages to an army 
wishing to pass the Rhine; there is an island I 
nearly in the middle of the river, and the left Sj 
bank, which is the highest, overlooks the right, |j 
where the valley of the Nette would be very easy s 
of access. These inducements probably deter- 
mined C-iesar to erect a bridge here, and influ- 
enced the French armies, who made three sue- 1 
cessive passages during the revolution. The last I 
was effected on the 18th April, 1797, under the \ 
orders of General Hoche. He had first erected 
a fortification on the island in the middle of the j 
Rhine,, behind which he collected the boats for t 
the passage. The Austrians made a long and 1 
obstinate resistance, but the affair was at length 
decided by the voluntary sacrifice of the French >j 
Captain Gros. This brave warrior swore to take, [. 
with his little troop, an Austrian battery, which ! 
was keeping up a very decisive fire. The bat- |j 
tery was taken, and Gros lost his life ; but 
his death procured victory to his, countrymen. [ 
On a hill near Weisse Thurm, is the monument J 
of General Hoche. It is unfinished, and is : 
gradually decaying. It bears this inscription, t 
" I/armee de Sambre et Meuse a son general 
Hoche." 

After having passed Weisse Thurm, the tra- ; 
veller sees on the right bank the neat town of 
Neuwied, situated in a plain, bordered by a C 



TO BONN. 301 

I chain of mountains. Behind the town is the 
i abbey of Romersdorf (Villa Romano), situated on 
j a rising ground, at the foot of which is the village 
j of Heimbachzveis . This town occupies the site of 
the village of Langendorf. It was founded by 
! Prince Frederick William, who died in 1737; 
I and contains about 5000 inhabitants. The 
! streets are broad and the houses pleasant. A 
I considerable business is carried on. Prince 
j Alexander of Neuwied greatly increased this 
town, by allowing all who settled there the li- 
berty of public worship, according to their own 
| views. This attracted a great number of indus- 
trious people from every country, Protestants, 
Catholics, and Jews ; so that the town became 
very flourishing. Neuwied is thought to resem- 
ble the towns of America. It suffered much by 
the war, but is still a place of considerable im- 
portance. Neuwied communicates with the op- 
posite bank by a flying bridge established in 
1818. It has manufactories of watches and 
jewellery, kitchen ranges, wooden pipes, linen, 
glass> snuff, copper, &c. 

| The most remarkable objects are,— 1. The 
Chateau, at which may be seen a very interesting 
Collection of Roman antiquities, collected in the 
environs of the town. Amongst them are lances, 
arrows, drinking glasses, plates, mirrors, rings, 
bracelets, inscriptions, figures of gods, &c. 
Here also is a good collection of the natural his- 
tory of the Brazils, made by Prince Maximilian. 
The garden is likewise worthy of observation, — 
2 D 

i 



302 



VIT. FROM COBLENTZ 



2. The House of the Moravian Brothers, or Hern- 
hutters. Amongst these brethren there are some 
good artists. Neuwied also possesses a seminary 
for Lutheran Schoolmasters, a Bible Society, and 
a Gymnasium. M. Prudhomme has a good col- 
lection of natural history. 

Neuwied carries on a considerable trade on the 
Rhine in iron, potash, pipe-clay, and other pro- 
ducts, from the woods and mountains of the sur- 
rounding country. 

Inns. The Golden Anchor, the Savage, the 
United Brethren, the Court of Brunswick, 

In the environs of Neuwied are the remains of 
an ancient town, and of several roads, construct- 
ed by the Romans, which were discovered in 
1791. Behind Biber, half a league from Neu- 
wied, are the vestiges of a strong castle. Seve- 
ral walls project from the ground in various 
places, and there are likewise traces of a ditch, 
which is nearly filled up. The form of the fort 
is rectangular. A tower is situated in the front 
of it. It is 840 feet long, and 631 feet broad. 
The whole is surrounded by a defensive wall, 
five feet thick 5 furnished with projecting towers. 
In the interior of the rectangle is a bathing- 
house of considerable extent, which, from the 
vestiges that remain, must have been very beau- 
tiful. The bathing-rooms had a double floor, 
and the ceilings were supported by more than 
100 brick pillars. The statue of a Genius was 
found in the canal that supplied the baths. 
In these baths have been found a victoria gra- 



I 

TO BONN. 303 

i diens, a Diana vemfrix, a Mercury with a German 
flute, and a Genius with a cornucopia. The latter 
statue is of common stone, but the others of 
bronze. About forty medals have been dug up 
here, all of which bear the date of reigns from Ti- 
berius to Gallienus. At some distance from this 

I place a temple was discovered in 1801, but has 
been covered over again; the place, however, is 
distinguished by a stone. The fields around the 
fort contain numerous remains of Roman archi- 
tecture, over which the plough is continually 
passing. All the antiquities that could be re- 

| moved have been deposited in the chateau at 
Neuwied. 

Not far from Heddersdorf, a quarter of a league 
from Neuwied, are the ruins of another town, the 

i history of which is extremely doubtful. It is 
possible that the road which passes here was a 
street of this town. An ancient road is still visi- 
ble between Heddersdorf and Gladbach, and an- 

I other leads from the abbey of Romersdorf to 
Biber. Both were Roman military roads, one of 
which led to Altich, and the other formed the 
communication between the fort and Biber. At 
the top of the mountains behind Romersdorf may 
still be seen a circular fortification, 500 feet in 
circumference, called the Old Castle, which is 
supposed to have been one of the advanced posts 
that the Romans established against the Ger- 
mans. At this fortification commences the ditch 
of Heydengraben, which extends as far as the 
road to Alteck, passing over the highest parts of 



304 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ 



the mountains, and even continues beyond it be- 
tween Oberbiber and Braunsberg. This ditch is 
part of that famous line which Drusus established 
as a defence against the attacks of the Germans, 
and which likewise formed the boundary of the 
first possessions of the Romans in Germany. 
Other vestiges of it may be seen in the surround- 
ing woods and mountains. It is probable that it 
passed through Sayn, extending along the side 
of Rotenhahn, afterwards passing round the 
mountain near Montrepos, and thence proceed- 
ing through Leutersdorf, Hammerstein, &c. to 
the banks of the Rhine. There is another ditch 
which descends from Altich into the plain, and 
is now called the Heydenweg (Pagan's Way). 

It was probably at Engers, where may still be 
seen the remains of an ancient Roman bridge, 
that the principal road commenced, which divided 
in the plain into two other roads, one leading to 
the fort, and the other to Romersdorf. In one 
of the large rooms at the abbey of Romersdorf, 
there are six Roman columns. 

It is probable that all these Roman establish- 
ments remained untouched since the 3d century, 
as the statue of the Genius, found near the bath, 
bore an inscription on its pedestal indicating that 
it was erected 23d Sept. 246, during the consul- 
ship of Presentius and Albinius, and the reign of 
the Emperor Philip. The period of their destruc- 
tion was, no doubt, when the Preetor Posthumus 
called the Franks and Germans to his assistance 
to attack the Romans. 



TO BONN. 



305 



The ancient abbey of Romersdorf is situated in 
a delightful country, a league from Neuwied. 
In the church, which is very old, are the tombs 
of several Counts of Wied and Isenburg. Amongst 
them is the sarcophagus of Valentine of Isenburg, 
who was ten years Archbishop of Treves, and who 
afterwards married, that his family might not be- 
come extinct. From the windows of the convent 
there is a beautiful prospect towards Coblentz 
and Andernach. 

From Neuwied the traveller may make a plea- 
sant excursion to Montrepos, the summer resi- 
dence of the Princes of Neuwied. The mountain 
on which this chateau is situated is about a league 
and a half north-east of the town. The traveller 
proceeds by a pleasant road, which runs near se- 
veral iron foundries ; he then crosses the Wied in 
a boat, and reaches the road on the opposite 
bank, which passes by several farms, and leads 
across a fertile country to the top of the moun- 
tain. The chateau consists of a plain building, 
with only one story. On the side of it is the 
house of a forester, where travellers will meet 
with good accommodation. The prospect is va- 
ried and extensive. The Rhine rushes from the 
mountains, which appear at a distance, and forms 
in its winding course numerous charming islands. 
For a space of .thirty leagues nothing but fine 
landscapes are visible. A pretty forest, crossed 
by seven walks, is situated behind the chateau. 
The ends of all these walks command fine views, 
and at the termination of one appears a pic- 
2 d 3 



306 



VII. FIIOM COBLENTZ 



turesque valley, with numerous habitations, scat- 
tered along the banks of a limpid rivulet. 

Beyond Neuwied the Rhine presents on each n 
bank a grand and picturesque appearance. A 
quarter of a league from this town is the small 
village of Irrlich, or Erlich, situated at the mouth ; 
of the Wied, and opposite the entrance of the 
Nette. The latter river rises near the hamlet of \ 
Lederbach> in the Eifel, and for the space of ten \ 
leagues waters one of the most fertile and beauti- f 
ful valleys of the Rhine. At some distance from 
its mouth is the iron foundry of Ntttenhammer. 

Below Erlich is Fredcrickstein, an old castle 
belonging to Neuwied. The peasantry call it the \ 
Teufelhaus, or Devil's House, a former Prince of 
Neuwied having erected it with the produce of 
an exorbitant tax. It is now in ruins. Around (I 
this building are several fishermen's houses, form- 
ing the small village of Amfahr, whence there is J 
a ferry to Andernach. 

The valley now becomes narrower, and the 
river flows with greater rapidity. On the right 
are steep rocks, surmounted by thickly-planted 
trees, and on the left appears Andernach ; behind I 
which is a dark and gloomy rock. On the right J 
bank, a short distance farther, is the neat village I 
of Leutersdorf. All the country from Weisse- I 
thurm to Andernach has a dreary aspect, and the I 
impression it is calculated to make, is increased 
by the ruinous appearance of the convent of the I 
nuns of St. Thomas, a quarter of a league from J 
the town. This abbey was built in the 12th i 1 



TO BONN. 



307 



century, and the Countess Tenwidis of Spon- 
heim was the first abbess. It is now a leather 
factory. 

ANDERNACH, 

I 

I The Artonacum of the ancients, was a Roman 
frontier town, and the head-quarters of a military 
j prefect. The kings of the Franks afterwards 
| built a palace at this place, and historians relate, 
1 that they caught fish out of the Rhine from its 
windows. But as the ruins now seen are a con- 
| siderable distance from the Rhine, on the south- 
east of the town, it is obvious that the river must 
have since deviated considerably from its ancient 
course. King Sigebert, of Austrasia, was the 
I last who inhabited the palace of Andernach. 
During the middle age, this town held a very 
high rank amongst the commercial towns of the 
Rhine, till it fell under the dominion of the 
Electors of Treves. It does not now contain 
more than 2500 inhabitants. Two things, how- 
ever, render this place still very remarkable ; they 
are derived from the neighbouring mountains, 
and are not to be found in such abundance, or of 
so good a quality, either on the Rhine or in any 
country of Europe. These are mill-stones and 
stones for making cement. The latter being 
mixed with a sufficient quantity of lime, to make 
it a consistency, becomes impenetrable to water ; 
or rather, hardens so much in water, as to form 
a new and very solid stone. In order to use it 



308 VII. FROM COBLENTZ 

in this manner it must be ground into trass (a 
name given to it in this country). This is done 
by mills, which were only used in Holland for- 
merly, but have lately been erected near the 
quarries whence this stone is taken. Some of it 
is sent to the East Indies, but the greater part to 
Holland, where it is used in the construction of 
dykes, and other hydraulic works. Andernach,, 
however, is not the principal place for the export 
of this commodity ; a much larger quantity is 
sent from Brohl, which is situated a league and 
a half lower down the river. 

The mill-stones are a volcanic production, and 
are mentioned by some of the Roman authors. 
They are sent to Holland, to the Hanseatic towns, 
to England, to Russia, and even to America. 

Andernach likewise trades on the Rhine in 
wine, charcoal, potash, &c. 

The most remarkable objects at Andernach > 
are, — 1. The Gate on the side towards Coblentz, 
constructed by the Romans. — 2. Outside this 
gate, on the right, the ruins of the Palace of the 
Kings of Austrasia. — 3. The Baths, called Jews' 
Baths, which are probably of Roman origin. — 4. 
The Parish Church, where it is said the Emperor 
Valentinian, and a child of the Emperor Frede- 
rick I. are interred.- — 5. The Old Tower, one of 
the most ancient buildings of the town. — 6. The 
Roman tombs, on the hill of Kirchberg. — 7. The 
Roman Altar, in the garden of the Oak Inn. 

Not far from the town are the majestic ruins of 
the convent of the Noble Ladies of St. Thomas, 



TO BONN . 309 

! which was consumed by the fire- in 1796. Some 
. French grenadiers were quartered in it, when the 
fire suddenly broke out in the night ; several of 
the soldiers perished in the flames, and the whole 
of this building was destroyed. It is now a lea- 
ther factory. 

A fair, called Birnenkrautmarkt, is held an- 
| nually at Andernach, towards the end of Septem- 
I ber. It is very well attended, and is kept as a 
grand festival. 

Inns, The Lily, Hartenfels, the Oak, and the 
Carp. 

If the traveller wish to visit the lake and abbey 
of Laach from Andernach, he must take the road 
by the quarries of Cruft, and return through Was- 
senach and Br oh I. 

Not far from Andernach is the mineral spring 
of Tonesstein^ or Antoniusstein, formerly called 
Tillenborn and Pxsterborn ; a great quantity of the 
waters of which was conveyed, during the Revo- 
lution, to England, where it was called Eau de 
Bonn. Clement Joseph, the Elector of Cologne, 
erected, in 1798, a small marble basin to receive 
the waters of this spring, around which he like- 
wise built a colonnade. 

Half a league from the springs of Tonesstein is 
another, called Heilbrimn, the waters of which 
resemble the colour of milk. The pitchers in 
which this water is conveyed are manufactured 
at Tonesstein. 

Andernach, when viewed on this side, presents 
a delightful prospect. Masses of rocks crowned 



310 VII. F ROM COBLENTZ 

with ruins of ancient castles, heights covered 
with woods, and valleys in a flourishing state, 
unite in forming very interesting landscapes. 
The mountains on the left bank almost reach the 
banks of the river, leaving only sufficient room 
for the great road. On the right is a delightful 
plain, where may be seen, on the banks of the 
river, the market-town of Leutersdorf or Leudes- 
dorf, which is situated in front of a rock covered 
with vineyards. As soon as the traveller has 
passed the small island on the left, he will see an 
opening in the mountains through which he may f 
view the river, pursuing its serpentine course for , 
four leagues, till it reaches Sinzig, situated in the : 
background of this delightful scene. 

Half a league from Leutersdorf, on the left 
bank, is the village of Named]/, shaded by a thick 
wood. The Rhine forms, near this place, a 
creek, in which were formerly assembled the 
small rafts called Bocke, which descend the 
Murg, the Neckar, the Maine, the Moselle, and 
the Sarre. Here it was customary, as in other 
places, to unite them, and form the large rafts in- 
tended for the markets of Dordrecht. Experi- 
ence, however, having shown that with due pre- 
caution, large rafts might be brought with safety 
from places higher up the river, this kind of 
work has gradually diminished. A description 
of one of these rafts, however, will not be unin- 
teresting. 

The length of one of the large rafts is gene- 
rally from seven to nine hundred feet, and its 



TO BONN. 



311 



breadth about seventy. On this mass of float- 
ing wood there are twelve or fifteen small houses, 
built with planks : that inhabited by the proprie- 
tor is usually remarkable for its elegance and 
convenience. There are sometimes as many as 
nine hundred workmen and rowers. The timber 
used in the composition of a raft is oak and fir. 
The bottom, or base, is formed of several long 
trees placed in rows, and connected together by 
trees of a shorter length, laid transversely. The 
latter are generally firs from the forests of the 
Murg, which are preferred because they are not 
so round as the others, and consequently more 
easily managed. They are placed across the 
trees at the base as before mentioned, and fixed 
by iron cramps and bracers made with willows 
or young firs twisted. The breadth of the raft 
depends on the length of these timbers, which 
are called masts, because the Dutch use them as 
such. If any cavities remain at the joints, they 
are filled up with small pieces of wood. There 
are above the original base two other ranges of 
timber united to each other, as well as to the 
raft below. The first range of timbers, called 
masts, is likewise furnished at each end with se- 
veral trunks of very stout firs, so that it may be 
capable of resisting the shock, should the raft 
run aground, a circumstance which sometimes 
happens. The surface of the rafts is covered 
with small pieces of wood and thick planks. A 
great raft generally draws six or eight feet wa- 
ter, and its entire weight should be in proportion. 



312 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ 



Oa both sides of the principal raft are two 
smaller ones, called Knie, (knees) in the lan- 
guage of the boatmen^ which are attached to the 
middle one by a small oak. They serve to di- 
rect the course of the raft, and are generally 
from seventy to eighty feet long. There are 
other rafts still smaller, which are attached to the 
principal one and to the knees, and are called 
Anhcenge. These are used to avoid the danger 
of running aground on the sand. A large raft 
is likewise accompanied by several boats, the 
largest of which are laden with anchors and cor- 
dage, and the small are employed in sounding 
the river or going ashore. The houses on these 
rafts are neat and convenient. The master's 
house is spacious, and is generally divided in 
two parts, between which there is room for walk- 
ing. On one side is the sitting, as well as bed- 
room of the master, and on the other the pilot's 
room, and the storehouse for provisions. Quite 
at the end is the dining-room, and near it the 
kitchen, in which may always be seen on the 
fire a large copper kettle, constantly in use for 
cooking. A basket elevated at the top of a pole, 
is the signal when the meals are ready, and every- 
body proceeds to take his share, which is served 
in a wooden bowl. The consumption of provi- 
sions on a raft, from the time of its setting out 
till its arrival at its place of destination, is calcu- 
lated at forty or fifty thousand pounds of bread, 
eighteen or twenty thousand pounds of fresh 
meat, ten cwt. of dried meat, twelve thousand 



TO BONN. 



313 



pounds of cheese, ten or fifteen cwt. of butter, 
thirty or forty large sacks of dried vegetables, 
five or six hundred ohms (a tun of one hundred 
and eighty bottles) of beer, and six or eight butts 
of wine, of seven and a half ohms each. The 
live cattle are on the raft, and there are always 
several butchers in the equipage* 

The art of conducting a raft is not known to 
every boatman, and was for a longtime confined 
to an inhabitant of Rudesheim and his sons. 
The numerous sinuosities, turnings, and fails of 
the Rhine, present a thousand obstacles to the 
progress of such a cumbrous mass, and the dif- 
ferent parts of the rafts are, in consequence, fre- 
quently broken. At Dordrecht, the timber is sold, 
and thence part of it is conveyed to England, 
Spain, and Portugal. The construction of a 
raft is very expensive ; a capital of at least three 
or four hundred thousand florins is requisite to 
its proper equipment. 

On the right bank opposite Namedy, is an 
enormous rock, at the top of which are the ruins 
of the castle of Hammerstein, covered with ivy, 
and almost concealed by brambles. The south- 
ern side, however, is planted with vines. At this 
castle the unfortunate emperor Henry IV. found 
an asylum in 1105, after having in vain attempt- 
ed to obtain from the Bishop of Spire the bene- 
fice of a lay brother in the very building which 
had been erected by the ancestors of this em- 
peror, and which had received numerous dona- 
tions from him. The Spaniards, the Swedes, 
2 E 



314 VII. FROM COBLF.NTZ 

and the Lorraines, were by turns masters of this 
castle during the thirty years' war. In 1654, 
Charles Gaspard, of Ley en, Elector of Treves, 
succeeded in driving out the Lorraines, and since 
that period the castle has belonged to the Elec- 
tors of Treves. The French pillaged it in 1688, 
and in 1823 the Government sold it to Baron . 
Hammerstein. 

At the foot of the rock is the village of Ober- 
kammerstein, which was formerly a fortified town. 3 
The Emperor Henry II. gained possession of it in 
1020, and shortly afterwards destroyed the forti- 
fications. Count Otto of Hammerstein, the last 
of that family, was then in possession of the | 
castle, and it was his perpetual robberies that , 
excited the resentment of the emperor. 

Not far from this place is the village of Nic- 
der hammer stein, near which there is another rock | 
of imposing appearance on the banks of the \ 
river. x4t some distance from it, but close to 
the right bank, is situated the island of Wester- 
hold. On the west side, opposite Niederham- 
merstein, is the small hamlet of Fornich, behind 
which is the rock of Kreuzborncr Ley. This rock 
is composed of crystals of blue-coloured basaltes, 
having five or six angles, which are mixed with 
dark spath, and placed vertically one above ano- 
ther. About the middle of the rock, on the side 
towards the Rhine, may be seen the curious i 
effects of an ancient subterranean fire. 

Below Fornich, the Brohl, or Broel, emerges \ 
from a defile formed by some rocks, and falls 



TO BONN. 



315 



1 into- the Rhine. Not far from this spot is Brohl, 
I properly called Brill, which is derived from an 
I old German word, signifying marsh, or forest, 
j This small village is partly concealed by two 
mountains, on one of which are the ruins of the 
j old castle of Rheineck, or Rhyneck. It has a 
I paper-mill. 

j | All the land around Brohl exhibits traces of an 
I ancient volcano, and the inhabitants of the place 
I are employed in exploring the quarries, for the 
stones which are used in making cement, and in 
which they carry on an extensive trade. The 
shore is very low, and consequently many fami- 
lies have removed to the interior, on the declivity 
of a mountain. On the banks of the river, not 
far from Brohl, is the village of Nippes, which 
. owes its origin to a Dutchman, who built its 
first house in 1712, in order to profit by the sale 
of the stones above mentioned. These stones 
are found under a layer of black earth, where 
they form several rows, from ten to thirty feet 
deep, beneath which are rocks and springs of 
fetid water. The old churches and other build- 
ings in this country are built with stones of this 
description. 

Behind Brohl is a picturesque valley, enclosed 
between the two sides of a mountain, which has 
the appearance xjf being split. This valley is 
watered by the Brohlbach, and has ten quarries 
| of cement stones, which formerly occupied more 
j than three hundred workmen, as well as a mill 
I for grinding these stones. At a short distance 



316 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ 



is the old castle of Schweppenburg, around 
which are caverns and cavities formed by cement 
stones, and shaded by oaks, beech-trees, and f 
firs. If the traveller continues on this road, 
which is equally interesting to the naturalist | 
and to the admirer of romantic scenery, he will 1 
pass by several mills and country-houses in his f 
way to the village of Burgbrohl, which is situated ' 
at the end of the Brohlbach, in the middle of a 
circle of mountains. On a height in its environs 
is a charming country-house, and beyond it is 
the Veitsberg, a high mountain, of conical form, 
whence there is a fine prospect. Towards the 
east may be seen the ruins of the fort of Ehren- J 
breitstein, whence a chain of mountains extends 1 
to the Seven Mountains : on the west appears 
the old castle of Oldbruck, near which com- 
mences the country of Eifel, and in the south is 
a chain of dark mountains. Laach, with the 
ancient abbey of Benedictines of the same name, ! 
is situated at the foot of the mountain, and in its 
environs are several farms and villages. The 
brow of the mountain is covered with a great 
number of blocks of granite and broken lava. 

From Brohl an excursion may be made to the | 
lake of Laach, which is two leagues from the 
Rhine. It is situated between mountains co- [ 
vered with woods, and its surface occupies a 
space of 1323 acres. It is 8422 feet in length, 
and 7643 feet in breadth. The water is said to 
be derived from more than 3000 springs, and to 
be 214 feet deep. These waters, which are clear 



TO BONN. 



317 



! and cold, have a blue appearance, and when 
agitated by the wind, throw up on the bank a 
kind of sand, which is attracted by the loadstone. 
The lake has no natural outlet, but the waters 
find egress by a canal, a quarter of a league in 
length, which was cut by the monks, when their 
I convent was threatened with ruin by the sudden 
J overflow of the waters. There is every proba- 
I bility that this lake, which overlooks the valleys 
in the environs, is the crater of a volcano, as the 
surrounding rocks are composed of porous lava 
and dross of metals, evidently the effects of fire 
and fusion. On the east side of the lake is a 
deep hole in the ground, whence issue vapours of 
carbonic gas, which stifle animals that approach 
too near. This circumstance has given rise to 
1 the saying of the inhabitants of the country, that 
no bird can fly over the lake of Laach without 
being stifled. This hole is supposed to bear a 
great resemblance to the famous grotto of the 
Dog, near the Lago d'Agnano in Italy. 

In the plain, about half-way between the abbey 
and the lake, is a spring of mineral water that 
has a pleasant taste, and it is probable that a 
great part of the springs of the lake contain mi* 
neral properties. 

On the banks of the lake is the ancient abbey 
of the Benedictines of Laach, which was former- 
ly very wealthy. It was founded in 1093, by 
Henry II. of Laach, palatine count of Lower 
Lorraine at Aix-la-Chapelle, and first palatine 
count on the Pthine. This edifice, which is a 
2 e 3 



318 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ 



building of considerable size, is ornamented with 
towers and has an imposing appearance. The 
church is a modern building, and contains tombs 
of the founder, and a great number of counts and 
ladies of the house of Ley en. This convent was 
very celebrated for the great hospitality of the p 
monks ; one entire wing of the principal build- 
ing, where excellent arrangements were made for f 
the purpose, was devoted to the reception of 
strangers, who might reside there as long as they : 
pleased. Another wing was destined to receive s 
the poor and the sick. The apartments of the i 
ecclesiastics, of whom there were forty or fifty, i 
were spacious and convenient. The library was 
voluminous, and there was an extensive collection R 
of pictures : these have been carried away, and 
the building itself has suffered considerably. The 
beautiful forests, an estate of 200 acres of arable 
land, a great number of meadows and orchards 
which surround the convent, have been sold, E 
together with the buildings, for 100,000 francs, 
or 4166/. \3s. 4d. At present, it is inhabited by 
a farmer, who furnishes very good accommo- 
dation. 

The naturalists Luc, Forster, Humboldt, and 
Noggerath, have made many interesting obser- h 
vations on this country. On the east side of 
the lake formerly stood the castle of Altenburg, 
the residence of the palatine count Henry. On 
the south-west side, not quite a league from the 
convent, are the villages of Bell and Niedcrmennig, 
where the amateurs of mineralogy will find many ! 



TO BONN. 



319 



objects worthy of their attention. At Bell is 
found a stone which resists fire, and at Nieder- 
menning are some famous quarries. The mines 
whence the stones are taken, ail meet in one com- 
mon crater, which is half a league in circumfe- 
rence. This crater is extremely deep, and at the 
bottom of 100 steps from the surface, presents 
a frightful gulph, the end of which may be 
reached by rope ladders and baskets attached to 
cords. In this place may be seen groups of 
enormous rocks, in various singular forms. About 
70 workmen are employed in it daily. The mill- 
stones which are taken from it were formerly 
sent to England, and some of the best quality 
sold for 80 or 90 crowns each. Two workmen 
are able to cut one in two days. 

A league from Niedermennig is the village of 
Frauenkirch, with a chapel of the same name ; 
in which, according to the legend, the bones of 
St. Genevieve were deposited. The husband of 
this virtuous woman had a castle at Hohensim- 
mern, or Altsimmern, not far from Meyen. Near 
Frauenkirch is a copious spring of mineral water. 

In order to return to Brohl the traveller may 
proceed either by a coach-road, or a foot-path, 
which leads to the castle of Rheineck. 

Another excursion from Brohl, may be made to 
the convent of Antoniusstein, or Tonesstein, a 
league distant, and to the castle of Rheineck, 
which is situated near it. The environs of To- 
nesstein have a grand and imposing appearance ; 
the eye may see on every side quarries of yellow 



320 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ 



cement stone, overhung by thick trees, small ri- 
vulets cascading from rock to rock, and grottoes 
formed by the hand of Nature. 

The castle of Rheineck is situated at the top of 
a steep mountain, at the foot of which are some 
huts and mills. The wheels of the mills are put 
in motion by the waters of the rivulet Pfingst- 
bach. The new castle was erected on the ruins 
of the old, of which only a dilapidated tower 
remains, covered with ivy and brambles, and 
forming a striking contrast to the modern build- : 
irigs, The last count of Rheineck died in 1548. I 
The estate then passed to the lords of Warsberg, 
and, in 1654, by purchase, to a count of Sinzen- r 
dorf, whose family retained possession of it till 
the cession of the left bank of the Rhine. The 
situation is charming, particularly of the garden, 
which is situated on the side of the Rhine, and 
commands a nne prospect. On the east may 
be seen a delightful country, interspersed with i 
country-houses and villages ; on the right ap- i 
pear the mountains of Andernach ; on the left 
rise the Seven Mountains, with their old castles 
fallen in ruins ; and at the foot of the mountain, 
whose sides are almost perpendicular, runs the ;' 
Rhine, which the eye may follow in a northern 
direction till it is quite lost. M 

Between the great road and the Rhine, for- 'el 
merly stood a large building of the Templars ; iJ 
the church of which was visible till within a few ] 
years, when it was destroyed. 



TO BONN. 



321 



! The country on the other side of the river, 
opposite the castle of Rheineck, likewise pre- 
sents a delightful prospect. The first object is 
the market-town of Honningen, surrounded by 
hills covered with vines, which, however, only 
afford a middling wine, inferior to that pro- 
I duced in the environs of Dollenberg. North of 
| this village appear the ruins of the castle of 
j Argenfels, which formerly belonged to the Counts 
I of Isenburg, from whom it passed to the Counts 
I of Leyen, who embellished it considerably. 
The whole has been since destroyed ; and no- 
thing is now visible but a walk of beech trees,, 
which leads to the edge of a rock, whence there 
is a fine prospect. A row of smaller rocks ex- 
tends from this place in a direct line, and the 
! heights behind are planted with vines. At the 
end of this great mass of rocks is situated the 
village of Argendorf, and in the distance appears 
a mountain of basaltes, called Erpeler-Ley, which 
is 700 feet high. 

The traveller scarcely loses sight of the ruins 
of Argenfels, when a delightful plain appears 
on the side of Leuzdorf, or Leubsdorf. A little 
higher is Dattenberg, with the ruins of an old 
castle in the midst of broken blocks of basaltes. 
The left bank exhibits a fine prospect. On the 
shore is seen the market- town of Nieder Breisig, 
which contains 1000 inhabitants. 

Following the course of the rivulet which falls 
into the Rhine at Nieder-Breisig, we arrive at 



822 



VII. FROM COBLli^TZ 



Qber-Breisig, where there is an old church with 
curious inscriptions. At a distance appear the 
castles of Oldbruch and Landskron. 

Not far from Breisig, and about a quarter of a 
league from the Rhine, is the small town of Sin- 
zig, containing 1300 inhabitants, which once 
formed part of the duchy of Juliers. This town, 
which is situated in the midst of a fertile plain, 
is the ancient Sentiacum, formerly a strong castle 
of the Romans, that was probably built by Sen- 
tius, one of the generals of Augustus. Roman 
medals have frequently been discovered at this 
place ; and in the time of Frederick Barbarossa, 
it had a royal palace. The parish church is a 
Gothic edifice, built in the form of a cross, with 
cement stones. Near this church is a chapel, that 
is more ancient, and contains a tomb, in which 
was found, some years back, a corpse that nature 
had converted into a mummy, called by the inha- 
bitants St. Vogt. This mummy was conveyed to 
Paris by the French, but was returned in Sep- 
tember, 1816. On an eminence close to the 
town is a large farm formerly the Convent of St. 
Helena. 

A short distance below Sinzig, the Aar falls 
into the Rhine. This small torrent rises in the 
Eifel, and crosses in its course a deep and narrow 
valley, about 12 leagues in extent, where an excel- 
lent red wine, well known under the name of Aar- 
bleichart, is produced. Its waters flow with great 
rapidity, and often produce much damage by over- 
flowing. This was particularly the case in 1804. 



TO BONN. 



On the right bank of the Rhine, nearly oppo- 
site the mouth of the Aar, is the village of Leubs- 
dorf, concealed at the bottom of a defile of 
mountains ; and not far from it is the small town 
of Linz, situated behind a height on the banks of 
the Rhine, This place, which formerly made 
part of the electorate of Cologne, obtained in 
1330 the privileges of a town, and in 1365 Arch- 
bishop Engelbert HI. built the castle there, near 
the gate of the Rhine, in order to protect the na- 
vigation, and defend the town against the fre- 
quent attacks of the inhabitants of Andernach. 
The castle, as well as the wails of the town, are 
constructed with basaltes, and the streets are 
paved with similar stones. The parish church 
is ancient. It contains a monument of the an- 
cient knights of Renneberg, who founded in 
1257 the convent of nuns of St. Catherine, situ- 
ated north-east of Linz. Considerable industry 
is displayed in this town, and numerous vessels 
come here to receive the different productions of 
the country, such as wine, potash, iron, lead, 
copper, and fullers' earth. The iron is brought 
from a foundry in the vicinity of the town. The 
best inns are that of M. Schwerdtfuhrer at Linz, 
and that of M. Unkel at Linzenhausen in the vici- 
nity. 

A league distant is the mine of Alzau, which 
supplies copper and lead. Silver is also ex- 
tracted there, by means of fusion, and the annual 
produce has lately amounted to 1200 marks. At 
Stoschen, not far from Linz, are some mines of 



324 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ 



manganese, which the inhabitants reduce to 
ashes, in order to employ it in enriching their 
lands. 

After the traveller has passed Linz, he reaches : 
the ruins of the castle of Odenfels or Okkenfels, at [ 
the foot of which is a small village. A short 
distance from this place is the village of Linzen- 
hausen ; and not far from it the Rhine receives : 
the rivulet Kasbach or Gasbach, on the banks of * 
which are several farms and mills. Here also is f 
the mountain of basaltes, called Erpeler-Ley 9 pre- 1 
viously mentioned, at the foot of which is the 
market town of Erpel. The southern declivity 
of this steep mountain is planted with vines, 
which produce a delicious white wine, called 
Leywein. The ground presents nothing but a 
mass of stories ; and the young vines are planted 
in baskets, filled with earth and green turf, and 
placed in the clefts of the rock. Near this 
place the Rhine turns to the right ; and the 
channel in which boats proceed, passes along the 
right bank. 

Opposite to Erpel, on the great road from 
Coblentz to Bonn, is the small town of Remagen, 
the Rigomagum of the Romans, which contains 
about 1300 inhabitants. In the environs a great 
number of monuments have been discovered, 
which bear dates of the times of these conquer- 
ors of the world. They were found in the year 
1768, when the Elector Charles Theodore gave 
orders for making the road from Coblentz to 
Bonn. Before that time, the traveller ran nume- 



TO BONN. 



325 



rous risks of losing his life whilst travelling this 
road, which was quite impassable when the 
Rhine attained a certain height. Robbers often 
concealed themselves in the brambles and clefts 
of the rocks, and thence rushed out on the pas- 
sengers, whom they threw into the Rhine after 
robbing them. Charles Theodore remedied this 
evil ; for by his orders the rocks were blown up, 
the low parts near the river filled, and solid 
walls erected to support the excellent road which 
was finished by the French in 1801. At this 
time were discovered a great number of mile- 
stone columns, others with inscriptions, medals, 
and other Roman antiquities, which prove that 
the Emperors Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus 
had established a great road here. All these an- 
tiquities have been taken to Mannheim. 

Inn. The King of Prussia. 

A few hundred paces from Remagen is the 
mountain of Jppollinarisberg, with an ancient 
priory, which belonged to the abbey of Siegburg. 
The situation is delightful, and it commands a 
fine view of the Rhine. In the Gothic church 
of this convent was formerly shown the head of 
St. Appoliinarius, and it was consequently much 
resorted to by pilgrims. 

On the right bank of the river, half a league 
below Remagen/ is the small town of Unkel, 
the environs of which are picturesque. A range 
of villages extends from this place as far as the 
Seven Mountains {Siebengeburge). The navigation 
of the Rhine, in the environs of Unkel, is rathei 
2 F 



326 



VII, FROM COBLENTZ 



dangerous. Opposite to this town is a mountain, L 
where are found, under a bed of sandy marl 30 j( 
or 40 feet thick, inexhaustible quarries of basaltic 1( 
columns, which have been explored for many 1 
ages. The fragments which break off these co- f ,j 
lumns are used to make pavements and walls. , 
There are several rows of these basaltic columns, | c 
some standing, and others lying in various direc- , 
tions ; they adhere together by the sides, and ex- j, 
tend under the ground nearly to the middle of the f 
Rhine. Several of them are quite at the bottom . 
of the river, and can only be seen through the ; 
water when the Rhine is very low. Some then ,f 
appear at the surface of the water, and others ,< 
are always visible above it. The most remark- 
able amongst the latter are those forming the , 
group, called by the boatmen the Little ZJnkeU j 
stein, which appears to be the continuation of 
the columns seen on the bank. Another more jj 
extensive group, called the Great Unkelstein, 
was situated in the Rhine, about 55 feet from 
the bank, but was unconnected with the other - 
columns. As this group rose much above the I 
water (even when the Rhine was at its great- 
est height), and was consequently seen at a 
distance, and easily avoided, it did not render 
the navigation very hazardous, but rather served 
to direct the pilots in passing by the dangerous 
places. For this reason it was left for sometime, ■] 
till the small groups, concealed beneath the water t 
in the vicinity, had been destroyed ; but as it was . 
in some degree an obstruction to the passage of |{ 



TO BONN. 



327 



large rafts, the French blew it up about 1806. 
Boats which are not laden may now indeed pass 
over the small groups, when the Rhine is high ; 
but those laden should endeavour to avoid them ; 
and as this is not always possible, particularly in 
ascending the river, dreadful accidents often 
happen at this place. The colour of the stones 
composing the group of Unkelstein is between 
black and brown ; its prismatic columns are of 
unequal length, but similar thickness: they 
contain iron, and are very heavy, hard, and 
sonorous. The great quantity of slates found 
in this country has induced some to . suppose 
that this basaltes was originally formed from 
slate. 

Between Unkel and the Seven Mountains, the 
Rhine forms another basin, both banks of which 
exhibit delightful landscapes. A number of vil- 
lages are seen dispersed over the plain, the hills 
are covered with vineyards, and in the distance 
appear the Seven Mountains, whose majestic 
summits seem to rise above the clouds. On the 
right are the villages of Heister, Scheurn, and 
Rheinbreitbach, and on the left Oberwinter. Near 
Rheinbreitbach are two copper mines, one of 
which, called Firneberg, or the mine of St. Joseph, 
is the most ancient on the banks of the Rhine. 
The other is called Marienburg, The village of 
Rheinbreitbach is pleasantly situated in front of a 
mountain, and the surrounding country is fertile. 
The wine produced there is one of the best of 
those called Bleichart. 



328 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ 



At this place the Rhine divides into two arms, J 
between which is situated the island of Rolands-i 
werder, or Nonnenwerder, containing 160 acres.! 
At the top of a rock on the right may be seen 
the ruins of the old castle of Rolandtcck ; thei 
greater part of them are covered with ivy and t 
brambles, excepting the side towards the Rhine, 
which is quite naked, and is remarkable for a 
beautiful arch, in good preservation. It is said, i 
that Roland, the nephew of Charlemagne, built f 
this castle, in order to be near his mistress, who • 
had become a nun at the convent situated in the i 
island. The poet Schiller has made this the sub- ; ; 
ject of one of his best ballads, entitled the Knight I 
of Toggenburg, placing, however, the scene in \ 
Switzerland. The prospects from the castle of 
Rolandseck are delightful. In order to reach ; 
these ruins, the traveller must first take the car- js 
riage road, which passes over the mountain on I 
the west side, and afterwards proceed by a foot- 8 
path on the left, that leads direct to the castle, 
across a defile covered with brambles. At the li 
foot of the ruins is a small hamlet. In the island ; \ 
of Rolandsxverder, or Nonnenwerder, is a small vil- A 
lage, containing 250 inhabitants, and an hotel for- 1 
merly a convent of nuns. In 1120, Frederick II. « 
built some cells there, which were afterwards con- ! 
verted into a splendid monastery. The farm of A 
Grafenxjcerder is situated on the right, and is only \ 
separated from the island of Roland by a small i 
arm of the Rhine. The course of the river is ex- f 



TO BONN. 329 

tremely rapid, and the boatmen call this place 

| Gotteshulfe (God's Assistance). 

Between Rolandswerder and the market-town 
of Honnefy situated on the other side, there was 
formerly another island called the Grafenwerder, 

' which was joined to the right bank of the Rhine 

i some years back by the celebrated Wiebeking. 

| The heights near Honnef contain some lead 
and copper mines ; and at some distance from 
it is .the village of Ronnesdorf, situated at the 
end of the Seven Mountains (Siebengeburge). 
These mountains, which extend as far as Konigs- 
winter, derive their name from the seven highest 
summits by which they are crowned. On the 
loftiest is an obelisk erected in memory of the 
passage of the Rhine by the German armies in 
1814. This chain of mountains terminates the 
great chain that crosses Thuringen, the country 
of Fulde, and that of Wetter au, and passes to the 
Rhine. 

The highest of the Seven Mountains is the 
Drachenfels (Dragon's Rock), which rises in the 
form of a colossus on the banks of the river, 
bearing the ruins of an ancient castle, that has 
the appearance of a fine piece of architecture. 
The family of the Counts of Drachenfels, the an- 
cient proprietors of this castle, became extinct in 
1580, and the castle then passed to Otto Wald- 
pot of Bassenheim, in consequence of his mar- 
riage with the daughter of the last of these 
counts. 

2 f 3 



330 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ 



A curtain of mountain called Ropeka?mnerchen, 
forms the junction between the mountain of 
Drachenfels and that called Wolkenburg. The \ 
latter has the form of a mutilated cone, and is 
1482 feet high. In former times there was like- t 
wise a castle at the top of this mountain, which 
was often covered with fogs and clouds, and 
thence derived the name of Wolkenburg (Castle 
of Clouds). Tt has now some extensive quarries. 
The stones taken from them are sent to Konigs- 
winter, situated near this place, where they are 
cut, and whence they are called Konigswinter 
stones. Most of them are afterwards sent to 
Bonn, Cologne, Dusseldorf, &c. The castles of 
Wolkenburg, Drachenfels, and Rolandseck, were 
burnt by the Emperor Henry V. Archbishop 
Frederick I. of Cologne rebuilt that of Wolken- 
burg, in which he died. 

On the right of the Drachenfels is the moun- 
tain of Stromberg, which inclines towards the 
Rhine. It is likewise called Petersberg, (Peter's 
mountain), a name which it receives from a small 
chapel situated there, and dedicated to St. Peter. 
Several hermits of the order of St. Augustine es- 
tablished themselves on this mountain in 1 1 34 ; 
and in 1188, Archbishop Philip of Heinsberg 
sent from the convent of Himmerode, in the 
Eifel, some monks of the order of Citeaux, who, 
however, abandoned this inhabitable mountain 
in a few years, and settled in the valley of Heis- 
terbach, in the vicinity. 

Behind these three mountains, and a little far- 



TO BONN. 



331 



ther from the Rhine, are those called Lowe?i- 
berg (1896 feet high), Niederstromberg or Non- 
nenstromberg, Oelberg (1827 feet in height), and 
Hemmerich On all of them may still be seen 
the ruins of old castles, many of which are said 
to have been built in 36 8, by the Emperor Va- 
lentinian. The castles of Lowenburg and Hem- 
merich were inhabited by the Lords of Heins- 
berg. The last of this illustrious family perished 
near Leghenich, in a war against the Bishop of 
Cologne, and a cross may still be seen at the 
spot where he died. 

The country beyond the Seven Mountains, on 
the left bank of the Rhine, presents new charms : 
the river, whose banks gradually rise, resembles 
a vast lake, in the waters of which, part of the 
houses of Oberwinter are reflected, whilst others 
are situated at some distance, on the declivity 
of a mountain behind this village. Several de- 
lightful valleys appear on both sides, and the 
whole scene is interspersed with fertile fields. 

On the right bank is Konigswinter, situated at 
the foot of three lofty hills, covered with vine- 
yards. From the top of these hills there is a fine 
prospect ; the spectator may see Godesberg, with 
its ruins, the town of Bonn, and in clear weather 
the town of Cologne, with its numerous steeples. 

Konigswinter probably existed at the time 
when the Emperor Valentinian established some 
fortresses on the mountains of Lovvenberg and 
Stromberg. It is likewise said that the Romans 
having been driven from this place in 446, by a 



332 VII. FROM COB LENTZ 

I ft I 

king of the Franks, the latter resided there seve- \ 
ral months in the winter, waiting to pass the 
Rhine, whence it received the name of Hiberna , 1 
Regia. The inhabitants of Konigswinter are prin- 
cipally employed in making wine and cutting 
stones ; and they are considered very honest and^ 
industrious people. There are ten large estab- ) 
lishments for cutting stones, all of which make 1 
extensive exports annually. 

The best inns are, the Drachenfels, and the 
Maurer. 

If the traveller wishes to visit the Seven Moun- 
tains, he had better make the excursion from I 
Konigswinter, taking with him a guide from that 
place. The most extensive and interesting view Ci 
is from the top of the Drachenfels, where, at the 
place called Platz, there is a small and neat I 
house,, surrounded by benches. Here also is the 
obelisk, already noticed, erected to the memory 
of the brave men who died in 1814, at the passage 
of the Rhine. The prospect is likewise very J 
beautiful from the Strom berg, on which are a i 
chapel, a peasant's house, and some acres of ij 
arable land. 

Not far from Konigswinter is the valley of 
Heisterbach, with the ruins of a church and ab- j, 
bey. The remains of these ancient buildings \ 
were sold, some years back, and partly destroyed. 

Another valley extends to the foot of the 
Stromberg. At the extremity of it is the farm 
of Pfqffiroth, with a garden and promenades. 

A boat sets out every morning from Konigs- 



TO BONN. 333 

I winter to Bonn, the fare in which is three half- 
! pence : if the whole of the boat is taken, it is 
fifteen pence. 

At Konigswinter terminates the valley, proper- 
ly called the Valley of the Rhine, which com- 
mences at Bingen. The mountains on each side 
recede considerably, and the bed of the Rhine 
becomes gradually wider. 

The traveller then sees on the right, the vil- 
lages of Dollendorf and Oberkassel; behind which 
is the abbey of Siegburg, situated at the top of a 
hill three leagues distant. On the left is Mehlem, 
in the environs of which is the Rodcrberg, one of 
the most curious extinguished volcanoes in the 
Lower Rhine. At some distance farther down are 
the villages of Romersdorf and Plettersdorf, and 
still farther appears the mountain of Godesberg, 
with the ruins of an ancient and strong castle 
of the Romans. The name of this mountain is 
not derived, as many pretend, from an ancient 
temple of the god Woden, or of Mercury,* but 
from the German word Goding, or Gaugericht ; 
signifying a kind of court of justice, which held 
its sittings during the middle ages. These ruins, 
as is apparent in many places, are the remains of 
an old and strong castle of the Romans, proba- 
bly built in the reign of the Emperor Julian. 

In 1200, Archbishop Theodoric, of Cologne, 
erected a new castle on the ruins of the old one. 

* The first had no temples, and those of the god Mercury 
are not erected on mountains. 



334 VII. FROM COB LENTZ 

Archbishop Gebhaid, of Cologne, placed a Dutch 
garrison there during the famous war, which gave 
rise to his conversion to the Protestant religion, 
and his marriage with the beautiful Countess of 
Mannsfeid. The troops of Bishop Ernest, of the ! 
house of Bavaria, who was put in his place, blew 
up the castle, in 1593. The view from the top of 
the Godesberg is varied and delightful. 

At the foot of the mountain is the village of 
Godesberg, containing about 800 inhabitants. At 
this place are the mineral springs called Draits- 
cher quelle (fountain of Draitsch), which attract 
much company. The arrangements made for 
their use are very convenient, and the surround- 
ing country is delightful. 

Inns. Plenzler's, and the Belle Vue. 

The distance from Godesberg to Bonn is one 
league and a quarter. On the side of the road 
may be seen the cross called Hochreuz, a Gothic 
monument, constructed in 1330, by Archbishop 
Walram, of Juliers, with some stones brought 
from Drachenfels, Opposite the cross, about a 
quarter of a league from the road, is the village 
of Friesdorf, at the foot of a range of hills, which 
extend from the Godesberg a considerable dis- 
tance into the old department of the Roer. This 
place is remarkable for the great alum-works in 
its vicinity. M. Noggerath was the first who 
discovered that alum formed part of the manga- 
nese, of which there are large beds in the ground 
near this place. The road, on quitting Godes- 
berg, follows, till within a quarter of a league of 



TO BONN. 



335 



Bonn, the course of a rivulet, the banks of which 
i are planted with trees, and it afterwards crosses 
! several vineyards, as far as the gate of the town. 
| The most remarkable amongst these is that called 
! Vinea Domini, where there is a neat little house, 
; of an octagon form, which contains a good-sized 
! hall, and at which several arbours of vines meet. 

BONN. 

I 

The fourth city on the banks of the Rhine, 
I where an Elector of Germany formerly resided, 
! was at first a colony of the Ubians (Ubii). Dm- 
sus Germanicus erected a bridge there over the 
Rhine, and built a strong castle, which was en- 
larged by Julian. Tacitus and Florus mention it 
under the name of Bonna and Bonnencia Castra. 
The Normans twice destroyed this city by fire ; 
but the mother of Constantine the Great having 
erected the Minister there, new streets were soon 
formed around this church, and in 1240 Conrad, 
of Hochstetten, surrounded the place with a wall. 

The history of Bonn records many remarkable 
events. In 921, an interview took place on the 
Rhine at Bonn, between Henry the Fowler and 
Charles the Simple, of France, in which they 
contracted their ever-memorable alliance. In 
942, a grand council was held there, under the 
presidency of Archbishop Wichfried. In the years 
1254 — 1256, the city entered into the Hanseatic 
confederation ; and the Elector Engelbert of Fal- 
kenburg having been obliged to quit Cologne in 



336 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ 



consequence of an insurrection of the inhabitants 
of that city, transferred his residence to this place 
in 1268. The Emperor Charles IV. was crowned 
at Bonn, by the Elector Walram. About the 
year 1583 a terrible war broke out, during which 
the greater part of the city was destroyed. The 
united troops of Holland, Spain, and Austria, 
laid siege to Bonn, in 1673, and obtained posses- 
sion of it; and in 1689 it fell into the hands of 
Frederick III. of Brandenburg, who was after- 
wards the first King of Prussia. It surrendered 
in 1703 to the Duke of Marlborough. In 1717, 
the Elector Joseph Clement caused the fortifica- 
tions on the east side of the town to be destroyed ; 
and laid the foundation of the castle, which was 
finished by his successor, Clement Augustus. 

The city of Bonn is not large, but it has a 
pleasant appearance, and contains about 1160 
nouses, and nearly 12,000 inhabitants. The 
most remarkable buildings in the town are, — 1. 
The Castle, which has been appropriated to the 
University. Its front overlooks the most beauti- 
ful part of the environs, where may be seen on 
one side, the Rhine, with the Seven Mountains, 
and on the other the charming hills in front of 
Poppelsdorf. It comprises schools of surgery 
and medicine, a lying-in hospital, a library, oc- 
cupying what was the Knight's Hall ; and the 
Royal Museum of Antiquities, amongst which is 
a fine winged head of Mercury, dug up at Ha- 
dernheim in 1821. The Chapel is devoted to the 
Protestant faith. The University was originally 



TO BONN. 



337 



founded by Maximilian, the last Elector, and 
brother of the Emperor Joseph. It was sup- 
pressed by the French, and restored by the new 
government, in 1818. It is now in a flourishing 
state. — 2. The English Garden. The most inte- 
resting part is that where the French made a bas- 
tion, overlooking the Rhine. From this spot 
there is a fine view of the river, In the distance 
appear the Seven Mountains, the Godesberg, and 
the Kreuzberg. — 3. The Church of the Miinster. 
The Empress Helena had erected a temple on the 
spot where this church stands,but the present build- 
ing appears to have been raised in the i 2th century. 
In the interior may be seen a bronze statue of 
this empress, and two bas-reliefs in white marble, 
one of which represents the birth,, and the other 
the baptism of Jesus Christ. This church was 
repaired in 1821. The ancient church of St. 
Martin, which was situated on the side of the 
Miinster, and was probably built by the Romans, 
has been demolished. —4. The new Parish Church 
of St, Remy. It contains a beautiful altar-piece, 
painted by John Spielberg, representing the bap- 
tism of Clovis, or Louis, King of the Franks, by 
St. Remy. — 5. The Town-house, built in 1737, at 
which is a reading-room, established by the last 
elector, and under excellent regulations. Every 
stranger can gain admission after he has been 
once introduced by a member of the society. — 6. 
The Hotel of the Mines of Rhenish Prussia. This 
city likewise contains several fine buildings be- 
longing to private persons ; such as the hotel of 

% G 



338 



VII. FROM COBLENTZ 



the Count Belderbusch, that of Count Metternich, f» 
those of Rademacher, England, Nettenhoven, 
Hatzfeid, &c. 

There are no handsome public squares at 
Bonn ; but the most agreeable is that of the I' 1 
market, which extends from the Town-house to f 
the street Sternenstrasse. In summer it is the 
place for evening promenades. In the centre is 
a pyramid, with a fountain. The square of St. 1 
Remy takes that name from the old church of St. < 
Remy which formerly stood there, but has been : 
demolished some years. It is likewise called R 
the Square of the Romans; a name that it de- J 
rived from an altar, raised by the Romans to 
the Goddess of victory, which formerly stood in N 
the middle of this square, but has been trans- 
ferred to the Museum. This monument, which 1 
is supposed by many learned men to be the true 
ara Ubiorum, bears the following inscription ; — f 
Deae Victoriae Sacrum. On the left side ;' ; 
is represented a man, armed with an axe and a f 
knife ; and on the right side is a young man, j 
holding in one hand a vase with a handle, and i 
in the other a small basin. Above this figure is 
an urn and a second vase. On the last side are 
three dolphins, and below them a bull, intended f 
to be sacrificed. The form and sculptures of ' 
this altar, the style in which it is finished, and p 
the elegance of the characters, denote its Roman 
origin. Those who are acquainted with antiqui- 
ties will not hesitate to give it an equal rank 



TO BONK. 



339 



with the altar of victory found at Lyons. M. 
Peck, the canon, made this interesting monument 
a present to his natal place. The other public 
squares of Bonn are, the Square of the Minister, 
and that called Viereckplatz. On the first the 
tribunal, called Goding, held its sittings in an- 
cient times. 

The manufactories at Bonn are few. The only 
one of importance is that of M. Werth, in an 
ancient convent of Capuchins. It supplies spun 
cotton, coarse cotton cloths, and cotton hand- 
kerchiefs. Horses are made use of to give mo- 
tion to the spinning machines. Bonn has also 
some tin manufactories, and one for sulphuric 
acid, prepared according to the process of 
Chaptal. 

The amateurs of pictures will find several small 
collections, amongst which are those of M. Fal- 
kenstein, the merchant, and M. Neusser, the 
printer. The cabinets of antiquities, which be- 
longed to the Canon M. Peck, and to Dr. Cre- 
velt, have, since the death of those gentlemen, 
been given to the University. 

Bonn had formerly an excellent school of mu- 
sic, and this delightful art is still cultivated 
there. The celebrated Beethoven, Salomon, and 
many other excellent musicians, first received 
instruction in the art at this place. The estab- 
lishment of M. Simrock, who has a large col- 
lection of music, is one of the first in Germany. 

M. Ch. Noggerath and Son, trade in minerals. 



340 VII. FROM COBLE NTZ 

Inns. The Star, the Angel, the Carp, the 
Hotel of Cologne, the New Cellar, Colman's, 
and the Court of Saxony. 

The most interesting objects in the environs of 
Bonn are the following : 

Poppelsdorf, or Cle?nensruhe, with its garden, 
a quarter of a league distant. The way to it is 
by a walk of chestnut-trees, from the end of the 1 
town. Poppelsdorf suffered considerably during \ 
the last war, but it has been re-established, and 
now contains theatres for the delivery of lectures, 1 
collections of natural history, mineralogy, &c. ; 11 
philosophical instruments, apartments for the 
professors, &c. The ground surrounding it has I 
been laid out as a botanic garden. The collec- ' 
tion of zoology comprises upwards of 16,000 spe- 
cimens, that of petrifactions more than 10,000, 
and that of minerals more than 22,000. 

Close to this chateau is the village of Poppels- 
dorf, the houses of which extend as far as the 
mountain of Kreuzberg. It has a manufactory 
of china and porcelain, which is worthy of ob- ' 
servation. 

Inns. Brusselbach's, Schild's. 

Behind Poppelsdorf is the mountain of Kreuz- N 
berg, with a walk of fir-trees leading to its sum- 
mit. The convent of ServitenJdoster, which was 
situated here, has been demolished ; but there ! 
may still be seen a superb church, with a marble 
staircase, and a ceiling ornamented with paint- 
ings. The view of the Seven Mountains from 



TO BONN. 



341 



this place is remarkably grand. On this moun- 
tain the Elector Frederick William of Branden- 
burg established his head-quarters in 1689, du- 
ring the siege of the town of Bonn. 

A pretty valley extends to the foot of Poppels- 
dorf : it leads to Rottchen, where there was for- 
merly a hunting-seat, called Herzogsfreude, which 
was sold by the French and destroyed. Some 
peasants'* huts now occupy the spot. 

Another pretty promenade in the environs of 
Bonn is that leading to the nursery. The tra- 
veller will find at the farmer's who resides there, 
refreshments of every kind. Not far from this 
place is the village of Endernich, the environs of 
which are delightful. At this village may be 
seen the collection of pictures and engravings of 
the Canon M. Roth, and an establishment of 
rural economy, in the Dutch style, belonging to 
M. Quink. 

The traveller should likewise visit Roisdorf, a 
league from Bonn, at the foot of the mountain 
which extends as far as Briihl. It has a castle 
belonging to the Prince of Salm Dick, and a 
spring of mineral water, which is preferable to 
that of Godesberg, on account of the carbonic 
gas it contains being more condensed. 

The traveller may also observe, that in the en- 
virons of Bonn the Rhine takes quite a different 
direction from what it did formerly. An arm of 
this river ran parallel, with the mountains, and 
passed near Poppelsdorf and Kepenich, where 
2g 3 



342 VII. FROM COBLENTZ 

I 

arable lands are now seen. From the appearance . li 
of this arm, it is supposed to have separated from : 
the Rhine in the vicinity of Godesberg, and re- 
joined this river near Briihl. On the banks of ; 
this ancient arm of the Rhine were situated two c 
places, which are still important, namely, the h 
village of Transdorf (village of Trajan, xilla or 
cast rum Traja?ii f J and the small town of Bruhl 
above mentioned. Transdorf is situated about a 
league from Bonn, and the Rhine is now more 7 
than a league distant. Trajan, who was at Co- a 
logne with his legions at the time of his election 
to the empire, probably built between this town 
and Bonn several strong castles, which bore his ' 
name. At Transdorf may still be seen the re- 11 
mains of a tower, and several other works con- m 
structed by the Romans. It is also very possi- I 
ble that many other monuments are concealed > 
beneath the ground, accumulated by the Rhine, 
and are too low to be discovered by the plough. 

The small town of Briihl (Broilum, or Brolium) u 
is situated in a beautiful country, two leagues 
farther, and is now so distant from the Rhine 
that that river is scarcely visible from it. The \i 
Roman road from Cologne to Treves probably : 
passed by this place. It contains about 2000 
inhabitants. Archbishop Engelbert of Falken- R 
burg having been driven from Cologne, came to • 
reside at this place in 1262. Sigefroy of Wester- 
burg, wishing to shelter the town from the 
attacks made by the inhabitants of Cologne, | 
erected in 1284 a strong castle, in the construe- 



TO BONN. 



tion of which he employed the remains of the 
ancient fort established by the Romans. 

The Elector Gebhard of Mannsfeld trans- 
ferred his residence to this place. This town 
suffered most in the time of Archbishop Geb- 
hard, of the house of Truchess ; for his enemies 
laid siege to it, and pillaged it in various attacks. 
The famous Cardinal Mazarine found an asylum 
in the present castle after he was driven from 
France. In 1725 the Elector Clement Augustus 
laid the foundations of the superb palace of Au- 
gustenburg, which has been finished by Max 
Frederick. This castle is situated at the foot of 
the chain of mountains which quits the banks of 
the Rhine in the environs of Bonn, and follows 
the direction of that river for two leagues. Its 
situation is charming, and the surrounding coun- 
try is as beautiful as it is fertile. The ceiling of 
the staircase is ornamented with pictures, by 
Anducci and Carnioli. The finest taste has been 
displayed in the decoration of the interior. In 
the environs of the castle are large reservoirs of 
water, beautiful walks, pretty groves, and a park 
abounding with game. In this park is an ele- 
gant Chinese pavilion. A walk of linden-trees 
leads into the forest, in which is situated the 
hunting-seat of Falkenlust, ornamented with a 
terrace. 

At the Franciscans is an educational institute, 
and another for country school-masters. 

From Bonn there is a diligence every day to 
Cologne. The fare is two francs. A packet 



344 VII. FROM COBLENTZ TO BONN. 



boat likewise leaves for the same city every day, 
and arrives in about five hours. The fare is one 
franc and a half. No meals are given on board, 
but wine, tea, and coffee may be obtained. 

Steam-vessels also pass this place several 
times a-week, in their passage between Mayence 
and Cologne. 



845 



EXCURSION 

FROM BONN TO AIX-L A-CH APELLE AND SPA. 

! If the traveller intends to visit these two towns, 
j he should proceed to them from Bonn, and re- 
turn from Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne. There 
are no relays on the road from Bonn to Duren ; 
and, if the traveller is going in a carriage, he 
must hire horses at Bonn. 

Three leagues from Bonn is Rheinbach* The 
road passes through a delightful and fertile 
country, where hills, woods, and arable lands, 
contribute to vary the scenery. Rheinbach is 
a neat little town, which Archbishop Conrad of 
Hochstetten made a present to the chapter of 
Cologne, The remains of a Roman aqueduct 
may still be seen there. 

From this place the traveller proceeds to Me- 
chernich, and to the mountain of Bleyherg, where 
the amateurs of mineralogy may find numerous 
objects to gratify their curiosity. This mountain 
commences a little below Roggendorf, extends 
on the right side in a direction from north to 
south, for the space of a league, and terminates 
on the south side, together with the great chain 
of which it forms a part. Its breadth is nowhere 
more than the distance of two gun-shots, and 
its surface being entirely naked, without either 



346 



EXCURSION FROM BONN 



trees or brambles, it resembles a bed of sand. 
The northern extremity of the mountain is co- 
vered with peaks of rocks, which are mixed with 
lead. On the other side of these rocks is a large 
forest, which seems to form a natural border 
round Bleyberg, The mineral, found in large 
quantities in this mountain for some centuries, J 
consists of black and rough lead, contained in a I 
bed of very fine white sand, and so hard that it can I 
only be broken by a hammer. The pigs of lead I 
made in the neighbouring foundries weigh from . ] 
100 to 150 pounds. The workmen are very civil, j 
and the traveller will, no doubt, see with plea- I 
sure the different processes in the mine. He I 
should not omit to visit the great gallery ; and \ 
whilst waiting, he may send the carriage and 
horses to Kommern, half a league distant, where j 
there is a good inn. If the traveller commences ; J 
by viewing the establishments of Meinerzhag, he j 
will proceed by the foundry, situated in the Muh- i 
lengasse, to the establishment of M. Abels, in the 
same place. 

The traveller afterwards follows the course of 
the rivulet Bleybach, in order to reach Kommern, j 
which is a quarter of a league distant. The I 
water of this rivulet contains so large a quantity j 
ef arsenic, that it produces death on animals j 
which drink it. Sleep at Kommern. 

The amateurs of antiquity may likewise see in j 
the vicinity a Roman aqueduct, called RomerkanaL 
The shortest road to it passes through Mechernich 



TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE AND SPA. 347 



to the mill of Feyermahl, where the traveller must 
procure a guide. After having passed this mill, 
he proceeds towards the wood on the mountain. 
At the entrance of the wood appears an opening 
that forms the descent to the interior of the 
aqueduct, which is a canal three feet in breadth, 
and four or five feet in height. The bottom of 
the canal is formed of stones, and cemented in 
places where the water would escape. The arch 
rests on each side on a wall fourteen inches 
thick. The work is perfectly regular, and seems 
to be formed of only one piece. The roof, when 
seen from the inside, appears to be formed of six 
or seven rows of stones, the joints of which may 
be distinctly seen on the outside. The interior 
of the canal is very neat and polished. The dif- 
ferent parts hold so strongly together, that it is 
extremely difficult to detach any pieces. This 
aqueduct is re-covered with 2 or 2 J feet of earth, 
and on its sides are beech-trees and oaks. It 
passes by mountains and across meadows and 
arable land, and is always at the same level. It 
even follows the bends formed by the chain of 
mountains where the turn is not too great, and 
in that case cuts the angles in a right line, by 
passing over pillars and bridges. It is supposed 
that it terminates by dividing into two arms, one 
of which extends a considerable distance into 
the Electorate of Treves. 

The reasons which induced the Romans to 
establish an aqueduct in the middle of a coun- 



348 



EXCURSION FROM BONN 



try where water is so plentiful, are not known. 
It is now the resort of foxes, badgers, and some- 
times of wolves, which conceal their young in it. 

If the traveller is going by a carriage, he wiU 
be obliged to take, on quitting Kommern, the 
road of Zidpich, (the ancient Tidpetum and 
Tolbiacum,) which is two leagues distant. The 
town and its environs are celebrated in the his- 
tory of Germany. It was here that Clod wig, 
King of the Franks, obtained in 496 that great 
victory over the Germans, in consequence of 
which he received baptism : it was here that 
Theodorick, King of Austrasia, threw King Her- 
manfred of Bohemia from the top of a wall ; 
and it was here also that the decisive battle be- 
tween the two brothers, Theudobert of Austra- 
sia, and Theuderic of Burgundy, took place in 
612. Zulpich afterwards experienced various 
changes. Its churches are particularly worthy of 
observation. In the environs of the town, which 
are very fertile, there are some delightful places. 

Another interesting road is that through Nie* 
deggen, three leagues from Kommern, and two 
and a half from Duren. The most remarkable 
object is the remnant of an ancient strong castle, 
where there is a well of extraordinary depth, 
and a cavern. In the latter, a bishop of Co- 
logne was long detained a prisoner; and at the 
altar that may be seen in it, he performed mass. 
The situation of this castle at the top of a per- . 
pendicular rock, renders the access to it almost 
impossible. The side towards the town, which 



TO A IX- L A-CH APELLE AND SPA. 349 



is not so steep, was defended by several forti- 
fications. A subterraneous passage, which led 
into a distant wood, commenced at the well 
above-mentioned, and the entrance of it is still 
visible. 

From the top of these ruins there is a fine pro- 
spect of the valley, watered by the Roer. The 
rocks on both sides of this river have a singular 
appearance. Their whole, surface is covered with 
small pebbles, and such other objects as are 
usually found at the bottom of rivers ; and al- 
though these rocks rise some hundred feet above 
the level of the Roer, they are undermined by its 
waters. There is a good inn at Niedeggen, kept 
by M. Frommartz. 

Diiren, likewise called Denren, is a small and 
tolerably well-built town, situated in the ancient 
duchy of Juliers, and containing 6000 inhabitants. 
The surrounding country is fertile ; and not far 
from this place flows the Roer, the waters of 
which put in motion a great number of corn, 
paper, and saw-mills, as well as many others 
where- there are forges and foundries. Resides 
these, the town has several large brandy distille- 
ries, conducted in the Dutch style ; and many 
important manufactories of cloth, where all the 
operations are performed by mechanism. A con- 
siderable trade in corn is cairied on at this place, 
and the cultivation of lands and gardens is in a 
high state of perfection. 

The steeple of the church of St. Anne com- 
mands an extensive prospect. The Seven Moun- 



350 



EXCURSION FROM BONN 



tains, and more than one hundred of the sur- 
rounding towns and villages, may be seen from it. 

Inns. The Hotel of the Palatine Court, and 
that of the City of Cologne, The coin cur- 
rent at Diiren, and in its environs, as far as Aix- 
la-Chapelle, is that of Prussia. 

Half a league from Diiren, at the end of the 
wood, is the convent of Schwarzenbruch, where 
there is a manufactory of vitriol, which is obtained 
from peat. The convent is a neat building, and i 
has an elegant church. The peat is procured, 
from trenches, which are situated just below the 
convent. 

On quitting Diiren, the traveller retakes the post- 
road, and half a league from this place reaches \ 
the village of Langerwekr, situated on the Wehr- 
bach. The greater part of its inhabitants subsist 
by making pots for butter, which are sent to dif- 
ferent parts of Europe. \\ 

Two leagues from Langerwehr is Esehweiler % 
where the diligence arrives about three o'clock in 
the afternoon. Travellers generally alight at the 
inn kept by M. Riefelstein, where may be seen a 
room decorated with fossils, petrifactions, and 
other curiosities from the mines in the country. U 
If the traveller wishes to see the coal-pits of 
this place, and the different machines used in 
them, he must take a guide to Stol/berg, where he 
may pass the night without returning to Esch- 
weiler. At this place he will find a good inn, 
where a society meets every evening, formed by 
rich brass-workers, called Kupfermeister, to dis- 



TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE AND SPA. 351 



tiuguish them from the iron-workers, who are 
called Reathmeister, or Reithmeister. These per- 
sons are very agreeable ; and if the traveller be- 
comes acquainted with them, he will be enabled 
to view their manufactories and establishments 
with greater facility and convenience the next 
day. These establishments consist of foundries, 
where brass is made by mixing copper with cala- 
mine ; of cylindrical mills, where the brass is ex- 
tended into thin sheets: of workshops, where, by 
means of beating, vessels of every description are 
manufactured ; and, lastly, of mills, where the 
different kinds of brass wire are prepared. The 
sale of these articles is immense, and they are 
sent into every country in Europe, but more par- 
ticularly to France, Spain, and Portugal. 

In this place, likewise, there is a glass-house, 
which is worthy of observation. Coals are used 
to melt the glass, which is of a middling quality. 

The market town of Stollberg, which contains 
1900 inhabitants, is situated on the Vicht, in the 
centre of a delightful valley. The houses of the 
workmen are some of them isolated, and others 
form groups, surrounded by gardens, walks, 
ponds, and meadows, which may be seen in dif- 
ferent parts of the valley for a league's distance. 
The three churches belonging to three different 
sects of Christian believers, are situated on three 
separate hills, above which appears an old castle 
in ruins, that has a very picturesque appearance. 
This place owes its rapid increase to the Protest- 
ant refugees, whom persecution had driven from 



352 



EXCURSION FROM BONN 



France ; they first settled at Aix-la-Chapelle, 
where, however, they were not long tolerated, 
and whence they retired to this valley, in which 
they are allowed their own mode of worship. 

A league from Stollberg, near Gressenig, is a ! 
tomb, on the side of the road, which deserves to 
be denoted by a monument, as it is the spot 
where love gave a fine proof of its constancy till 
death. A young Frenchman, who was just mar- 
ried, served under the colours of Dumouriez. 
His wife followed him through all the dangers of 
war, and was continually with him. The army, 
however, beginning to retreat, and this young fe- 
male not being able to walk as fast as the other 
fugitives, her husband and herself endeavoured to 
avoid the enemy by taking the cross roads and 
forests. Whilst following the steps of her hus- 
band, she suddenly perceived behind a thicket 
an Austrian sharpshooter, on the point of firing, 
and she had only time to throw herself into the 
arms of her husband, when the gun was fired, 
and both pierced by the same ball, fell dead to 
the ground. A bush on the side of the road 
shades the tomb of this unfortunate couple. 

Two leagues from Stollberg is Aix-la-Chapelle. 
The road passes through woods, arable lands, 
and pasturages. The traveller need not, however, 
proceed by the ordinary route, which passes by 
the mill of Buschmuhle, but may take a guide to 
conduct him to the place called Miinsterpumpe. 
At this place lives in retirement, a man who may 
be said to rival the sages of antiquity. His name 



TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE AND SPA. 353 



is Deberghes, and he is at once naturalist, 
mathematician, and artist. 

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 

One of the traveller's first wants, on reaching 
Aix-la-Chapeile, is to find a cheap and commo- 
dious lodging. If he does not mind expense, he 
may lodge at the Grand Hotel, or at the Golden 
Dragon, where he will be extremely well attend- 
ed. There are, however, many good inns, where 
he may live at a cheaper rate, such as the Fo- 
reigner's Hotel, the Great Britain and Royal 
York Hotel, the Emperor's Bath, the Great Mo- 
narch, the Emperor Charlemagne, the Imperial 
Crown, the Court of Holland, the Elephant, Heu- 
ben's Imperial Hotel, and the Golden Block ; the 
Black Eagle, in the Market-place, is an excellent 
house, kept by Madame Leflond. At this hotel 
there is a billiard and ball-room, to which about 
160 gentlemen subscribe. At each of these hotels, 
during summer, there is a table d'hote. The dili- 
gences from Cologne, Liege, &c. stop at Heuben's, 
and at the Court of Holland. 

Strangers experience very little inconvenience 
from the police of Aix-la-Chapelle : and they 
may easily obtain information from the master of 
the hotel where they lodge, respecting pass- 
ports, &c. 

Those who are going to reside in this town some 
months, had better hire a lodging in a private 
house, which may be easily procured. Conve- 
2 H 3 



354} EXCURSION FROM BONN 

nient, and even elegant, apartments may be ob- 
tained from three to eight crowns a month. It 
will not be advisable to include in the agreement 
any trifling services that may be required^ but 
make an arrangement with the servant of the 
house for them. The traveller may breakfast in 
the house where he is lodging, and dine and sup 
at the table d'hote. Those who wish to be frugal 
may procure their dinner at a restaurateur's, 
where they may have for thirty sous five or six 
dishes, which are sufficient for two persons. 

The coins current at Aix-la-Chapelle are 
marks, six of which make a florin, nine a schil- 
ling, eighteen a franc, and fifty-four arix-dollar. 
The best mode is to reckon by francs. French 
and Dutch coins are also current, although the 
town belongs to Prussia. The traveller will do 
well to dispose of his Prussian money before he 
leaves the town, as out of the Prussian territories 
it is very much depreciated. 

Aix-la-Chapelle, according to the last astro- 
nomical observations, made by Tranchot, in 1804, 
is 3° 44' 57" h'" longitude, from the observatory 
at Paris, and 50° 47' 8' 8'" latitude. The dis- 
tance from Cologne is 1 8 leagues, from Liege 1 0, 
from Spa 11, from Maestricht 8, and from Paris 
about 106. The city is situated between the 
Rhine and the Meuse, in the middle of a delight- 
ful valley, bordered by a range of hills, which 
rise with a very gentle slope. These hills have a 
charming appearance, and are not sufficiently 
high to confine the prospect. Their sides are 



TO AIX-L A-CH APELLE AND SPA. 355 

very well cultivated. The most elevated amongst 
these hills is the Louisberg, close to which is 
Mount St. Salvator : it is situated to the north of 
the town, and protects it against the winds from 
that quarter. From the summit there is a fine 
view of the town and the surrounding country, 
which is interspersed with country-houses, and 
villages for several leagues distance. This hill is 
a great mass of sand, mixed with some beds of 
argillaceous and calcareous stones ; it contains 
also petrified shells, as well as other petrifactions. 
The mountains on the south of the town gradu- 
ally rise, the soil is less fertile, and the country 
is interspersed with woods. These mountains are 
connected by branches to that great chain of 
mountains known under the name of Ardennes, 
Eifel, and country of Montjoie. The city of Aix- 
la-Chapelle is consequently situated at the foot 
of these mountains : the country at the distance 
of a league on the east and north becomes gra- 
dually flatter, and forms the fertile plains and 
rich corn-fields of the duchy of Juliers. 

The ground in the immediate vicinity of the 
city is a mixture of pebbles and clay, and is partly 
rich earth, and partly sand. The latter, which 
is very fine, resembles sea sand, and is said to 
contain marine salt. Sulphurous pyrites is found 
in large quantities in the environs, as well as 
coals. Another production of this country is 
calamine. Some distance from the city there 
are likewise some mines of iron and lead, quar- 
ries of calcareous stone, several kinds of potters' 



EXCURSION FROM BONN 



clay, one of which is an excellent fullers' earth, 
that is made use of in cloth manufactories. 

The mountains in the environs of Aix-la-Cha- 
pelle are composed of calcareous stone. This 
stone appears on the surface of the ground near 
Burocheid, and in the whole district from that 
place to Cornelius Munster ; in the environs of 
the latter there are some fine quarries. 

Above this calcareous stone is a mass of grey 
sandy stone, intersected with veins of coals and 
slates. On these slates may be seen beautiful 
impressions of plants. 

Aix-la-Chapelle contains more than 2600 
houses, and about 33,000 inhabitants. An old 
chronicle mentions, that in 1387 there was a re- 
view, in which 19,826 citizens were capable of 
bearing arms, exclusive of the young men who 
were not married. Most part of the inhabitants 
are Catholics, and in former times were not 
considered the most tolerant. The Lutherans 
and the Protestants have now r places of worship 
there. 

Part of the inhabitants attend entirely to the 
cultivation of lands and gardens. This class is 
generally called Kappesbauern, a name derived 
from a kind of cabbage, an enormous quantity of 
which is planted, and is frequently exported, 
although the greatest part is consumed in the 
city. Another class of inhabitants, which is the 
most considerable, is that of the manufacturers 
and merchants, whose establishments derived 
great benefit from the French government. The 



TO A I X-L A-C H APELLE AND SPA. 357 



j third and last class is that of tradesmen of every 
| description, who profit considerably by the influx 
■ of strangers. 

The principal manufactories are of cloth and 
I kerseymere, needles, pins, iron and steel files, 
l copper, brass wire, &c. The various machines 
| used in these establishments are curious. 
I The language of the inhabitants is an abomi- 
I nable jargon of German, Flemish, French, and 
1 Dutch, although it is spoken in the first society 
in this city. 

Within a few years the city has been much 
I embellished, but Aix-la-Chapelle is still far from 
being a handsome place. The best street, which 
is called Compesbad, is only two or three hun- 
dred paces long ; and the street of the Capuchins, 
and those of Adalbert, Cologne, and Buchel, 
can only be considered as of a middling size. 
The market-place is a pretty square, ornamented 
with a fountain and a bronze statue of Charle- 
magne, on the sides of which are two black 
eagles. Charlemagne and the eagles are looking 
towards theTown-house (the ancient palace of this 
emperor), where the Prussian eagle may now be 
seen. 

The most remarkable buildings are, — 1. The 
Town-house. It was on the ruins of an old and 
strong castle of the Romans that the kings of 
the Franks erected the palace in which Charle- 
magne was born. This palace was destroyed 
with the town by the Normans, in 882 : Otto III. 
rebuilt it in 993 : and the last repairs were made 



358 



EXCURSION FROM BONN 



in the 14th century, when it was changed into a 
Town-house. One of the towers appears to be 
of Roman origin, and bears the name of Granus. 
The large arched halls are ornamented with 
paintings and sculpture, but the most remarkable 
object is the Coronation Hall, where may be 
seen the portraits of all the ambassadors who 
were assembled at the Congress held here in 
1 748.-2. The Cathedral or Church of Our Lady, 
Between the years 796 and 804, Charlemagne 
erected in his natal town a beautiful church, 
dedicated to the Virgin, which was richly or- 
namented with gold and silver. The gates 
were of bronze. Blocks of marble, and clever 
artists in mosaic work, were brought from Rome 
and Ravenna, and the whole was under the 
direction of Eginard. The form of the temple 
was antique, namely, a rotunda supported by 
pillars, in the embrasure of which were thirty- 
two columns, with Corinthian chapiters. The 
church was consecrated wich great ceremony 
by Pope Leo III. in 804. It was necessary that 
365 archbishops and bishops should attend this 
consecration ; but as there were two wanting of 
this number, it is pretended that two bishops of 
Tongres, w 7 ho had been dead a long time, and 
buried at Maestricht, suddenly appeared, assisted 
at the ceremony, and as suddenly disappeared 
after the benediction had been given. This su- 
perb church was much injured by the Normans, 
in 882, but was repaired and enlarged in the 
next century by Otto III. A part of it was con- 



TO AIX-LA-CHAPEI.LE AND SPA. 359 

i sumed by fire in 1236, and in 1358, a plain but 
| noble choir, with a very lofty roof, was added to 
j it. In 1366 it was again injured by fire. The 
' columns of this temple were taken away by the 
I French during the revolution, and carried to 
I Paris, but part of them were restored, 
j The interior of the cupola of the old dome is 
j ornamented with sculptures and paintings, which 
j are well worthy of observation. In the centre of 
' the church is the tomb of Charlemagne, who died 
at Aix-la-Chapelle in 814, with this plain inscrip- 
| tion, Car oh magno. Beneath this were formerly 
deposited the remains of this illustrious mo- 
narch ; but during the reign of Otho III. the 
tomb was opened, and the insignia with which 
the body was adorned, were taken away that 
they might be used at the coronation of future 
emperors. In 1165 the Emperor Frederick I. 
had the tomb opened again, and the body placed 
in an antique sarcophagus on which was sculp- 
tured the Rape of Proserpine. This sarcophagus 
was taken away by the French to the Louvre, but 
has been restored to the church. Above this 
tomb is an enormous crown of silver and copper 
gilt, suspended by a chain to the roof. It was a 
present of Frederick I. and is used as a chande- 
lier, in which forty-eight wax lights may be 
placed. 

Besides many old pictures the Miinster con- 
tains the following curiosities : a. A stone seat, 
which was found in Charlemagne's tomb, and on 
which many of the emperors sat at their corona- 



360 



EXCURSION FROM BONN 



tion. It is made of white marble, without any 
ornaments, and is situated in that part of the 
church called Hochmunster, on a pedestal with 
six steps. During the ceremony of coronation, it 
was customary to cover it with plates of gold, 
which are still preserved with other curious things 
in the sacristy of the church, b. The curiosities 
just mentioned, and the relics called the small 
relics in the sacristy. Strangers may see them 
by giving a small recompense to the keeper 
Amongst them is the skull and an arm bone of 
Charlemagne, contained in a valuable chest ; a 
golden cross, about two inches long, ornamented 
with precious stones, and with a piece of wood 
from Christ's cross, (it is said that Charlemagne 
always carried this cross with him, and that it ac- 
companied him to the tomb) ; also the hunting 
horn of this emperor, made of ebony, and orna- 
mented with gold. This church likewise con- 
tains many other relics, which, for the dignity of 
Christianity, ought not to be retained ; such as 
the girdle of Jesus Christ, with the impression of 
Constantine's seal; the girdle of the Virgin; the 
cord made use of to bind Jesus Christ ; a piece of 
Aaron's rod ; and some of the manna from the 
wilderness, as well as the great relics (the linen 
in which Christ's body was wrapped up, and the 
cloth on which John the Baptist was beheaded). 
These great relics, which are kept in a very costly 
chest, are only shewn to the public once in seven 
years. Their exhibition, which is open fifteen 



TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE AND SPA. 361 

days, formerly attracted an immense number of 
pilgrims from every part of Europe, and a chro- 
nicle of Aix-la-Chapelle mentions, that in 1492, 
142,000 persons attended in a single day, and 
that when the ceremony was terminated, 80,000 
gold florins were found in the box. In the Ca- 
thedral likewise were formerly kept the small 
symbols of the Germanic empire, namely, a book 
of the Evangelists, the sword of Charlemagne, 
some earth sprinkled with the blood of St. 
Stephen the Martyr, &c. These however during 
the late war were given into the custody of the 
Emperor of Austria, who still retains them. 

In a niche before the principal gate of the Ca- 
thedral, is a she-wolf of bronze, placed on the 
right, and on the left is a pine-apple of the same. 
From the apertures in these figures, it is supposed 
that they were once fountains. 

3. The Church of St. Nicholas or the Francis- 
cans, where there is a fine altar-piece by Rubens, 
representing the Descent from the Cross. This 
picture had likewise been carried to the museum 
of Paris, but was afterwards restored. 

4. The Church of St. Paul, containing a copy 
of Rubens's Descent from the Cross. 

5. The Theatre in the Place Guillaume is a 
handsome building, erected in 1824, from designs 
by M. Cremer. 

6. The New Fountain or Pump Room opposite 
the Theatre is an elegant rotunda, with a colon- 
nade in front. It was erected in 1822, and is 

2 i 



362 



EXCURSION FROM BONN 



supplied with water from the Emperor's spring. [ 
The waters are taken early in the morning, when 
a band attends the promenade. 

7. The Redoute in the Comphausbad. This is ; 
a noble room fitted up for balls and evening en- , 
tertainments, On one side of it are smaller 
rooms, three of which are used for private parties, 
and the fourth for the sale of confectionary, &c. ; 
There is no charge for admission, and visiters are 
not obliged to take refreshments. It is a fashion- ] 
able lounge, and gaming is permitted. 

The springs of warm water, for which Aix-la- jg 
Chapelle has been many years celebrated, are 
some of them situated in the city itself, and 
others at the market-town of Burscheid, in its 
vicinity. There are likewise at Aix-la-Chapelle 
and its environs, several springs of cold mineral 
water, which contain particles of iron. A similar 
spring in the interior of the town, is that at the r 
place called Driesch, the resemblance of which 
to the water of Pouhon, at Spa, has procured it 
the name of Spabrunnen (fountain of Spa). 

There are six warm springs of mineral water in ,j 
the interior of the town. Three of these, called 
the upper springs, contain not only more mineral 
substances, particularly sulphur, but the water 
is much more abundant and warmer than the b 
others ; they are situated in Buchel-street, in 
buildings occupying the inside of a court, and 
at a short distance from each other. The three 
other springs, denominated, inferior springs, rise 
from the ground in a low situation, five hundred 



I 



TO AIX-LA-CH APELLE AND SPA. 363 

paces from the first, cailed Brunnenstrasse 

| (street of fountains), or ComphausbacL 

The first and best, namely, the Emperor's 

j spring, is situated nearly in the centre of the 

-town, at the foot of a hill, forming the market- 
place of Aix-la-Chapelle, whence it issues from 

I the clefts of a rock, in the interior of the Empe- 

jror's bath. A cistern walled round receives the 
water from this spring. The vapours which it 

I emits, if enclosed for some time, deposit a large 
quantity of pure sulphur, called Badschwefei 

j (sulphur of the bath). 

The bathing-houses situated in the Buchel, 
which contain the upper springs, are called, — 
1. The Emperor's Bath.— 2. The New Bath.— 

I 3. The Queen of Hungary's Bath, formerly call- 
ed the Little Bath.— 4. St. Quirinus Bath. 
The bathing-houses containing the lower 

I springs, are, — 1. The Bath of Herrenbad. — 2. 

j The Rose Bath, which derives that appellation 
from its first possessor, named Rose. — 3. The 
Poor's Bath, likewise called Comphausbad. All 
these have accommodations for shower-baths. 
Vapour-baths are only to be found at the upper 
baths, as the lower ones have not the necessary 
degree of heat. These bathing-houses likewise 
contain very convenient rooms for persons tak- 
ing the waters. 

The depth of a bath is from four to five feet, 
and its walls are formed of massive stones in the 
style of the Romans. The bathing-rooms are 
most of them arched ; they have sufficient light, 



364 



EXCURSION FROM BONN 



and an opening for the egress of the steam. 
Near the baths are small rooms, with beds and 
fire-places. 

In the environs of Aix-la-Chapelle are several 
springs of cold mineral water. One of them, 
which rises in the wood of Burscheid, or Borcette, 
not far from Drimborn, (drinking spring) on the 
Heidbend, forms part of an English garden, to- 
gether with a building for the accommodation of 
persons taking the waters. 

In the environs of the city are several charm- 
ing promenades. The ancient ditch round the 
town has been filled up from the gate of St. 
Adalbert, as far as that of Sandkuhltor, and 
planted with trees and shrubs. Persons like- 
wise frequently go in the afternoon to the gar- 
den of Catchenburch, before the gate of St. 
Adalbert, and to that of Robens, before the gate 
of Cologne, to take coffee. The first of these 
gardens contains a cassino, at which gaming is 
allowed for a certain number of hours every day. 
Not far from this place are two other places of 
amusement, namely, the farms of Kirberg and 
Baber, to which many persons resort on parti- 
cular days in the week. The road leading to 
them is very pleasant. 

The most delightful promenade, however, is 
that presented by the Louisberg, a height near 
the city, and forming the central point of the 
plain in which it is situated. The beautiful 
prospect from it has been described. A diffi- 
cult and expensive undertaking was commenced 



TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE AND SPA. 



365 



here several years back ; to change this neigh t 
into an English garden by planting shrubs. The 
soil and situation, indeed, opposed the execution 
of this enterprise, but the attempt has been suc- 
cessful. In front of this height, towards the 
city, is a neat assembly-house, with a beautiful 
hall and a terrace, which commands a fine view. 
The French engineers, who measured the coun- 
try in 1804, chose the top of this height as one 
of their trigonometrical points. This spot has 
been designated by a pyramid of hewn stone, 
with several inscriptions describing the various 
heights, &c. The pyramid was overturned when 
the country was occupied by the allies, but has 
been since re-erected, by order of the King of 
Prussia. 

Amongst the collections at Aix-la-Chapelle 
are, — 1. The Picture Gallery of M. Bettendorf. 
—2. The Minerals of Dr. Loiseme.— 3. M.Meyer's 
medals, coins, and pictures, now incorporated 
with the town archives. 

The market-town of Burscheid (Porcetum, 
Borcette), in the vicinity of Aix-la-Chapelle, de- 
serves a particular description. It is situated 
before the gate Marschierthor, five hundred 
paces from the town, on the declivity of a hill, 
so that the principal street descends with a very 
steep slope into the valley. This valley extends 
from west to east, and is enclosed on the oppo- 
site side by another hill of less height, on which 
are two churches and several houses. In this 
valley are the warm springs of Burscheid, the 
2 i 3 



306 



EXCURSION FROM BONN 



greatest number of which, and particularly those 
called upper springs, are in the place itself, 
where they are partly enclosed in bathing-houses, 
and partly flow through the streets ; the other 
springs, called inferior springs, which are not so 
numerous, are situated outside the town at the 
bottom of the valley. 

It is said that this valley, which now contains 
a population of 4000 inhabitants, remained a 
desert till the 10th century, when it was only 
inhabited by wild boars. St. Gregory, son of 
Niciphore, Emperor of Greece, founded a con- 
vent of monks there, which was changed in 
1220 into a convent of noble ladies. The town 
was the property of the convent, the abbess of 
which was dependent on the German empire. 

Burscheid has several large manufactories for 
cloth, kerseymere, and needles, most of which 
have been established by Protestants, who were 
not tolerated at Aix-la-Chapelle. The great 
abundance of warm water from the springs, 
which has all the qualities of lie, and serves to 
wash and die the wool, renders this place ex- 
tremely advantageous for the manufacture of 
woollen stuffs. 

The upper springs, situated in the town itself, 
do not contain so much sulphur as the lower 
ones, and as those of Aix-la-Chapelle. Part of 
them rise from beneath a high hill, and part 
from another hill of less height opposite the 
first, and the water from them is so copious, 
that almost every spring has a distinct bathing- 



TO A IX- LA-CHAPEL LE AND SPA. 367 

j house- The degrees of heat, and the particles in 
| these warm springs, are nearly the same in all, 
and they contain a great quantity of carbonic 

s as - 

The hills where these springs rise are entirely 
formed of rocks, and covered with a very thin 
bed of garden mould. Nearly all of them issue 
from beds of slate. The soil in the valley of 
! Burscheid is very uneven, and appears to have 
| been made so by a subterranean fire, since many 
' parts of it bear evident marks of volcanic erup- 
i tions. The upper springs furnish so much wa- 
ter, that their union forms a considerable rivulet 
I of warm water, by the side of which flows a 
stream of cold water. These two rivulets, which 
are only separated by a small footpath called 
Warmscheide, unite about the eighth part of a 
I league below Burscheid, where they form a pond 
of tepid water, that gives motion to a mill for 
polishing needles. The lower springs of Burs- 
cheid partly flow into the rivulet of warm water, 
and partly into the pond. The union of these 
different waters, as well as of several rivulets of 
cold, form the Worm, which passes by Aix-la- 
Chapelle, not far from the gate of Adalbert, and 
from the lime-kiln, and terminates by falling into 
the Roer. 

The pond of warm water just mentioned is 
very remarkable. It is about one hundred paces 
in length: it never freezes; and its waters, 
which are salt, contain a great number of fish, 
such as pike, carp, tench, and several others 



368 EXCURSION FROM EON N 

that breed more frequently, and become larger 
than in other ponds. They have a disagreeable 
taste, which may, however, be removed by placing 
them from eight to fifteen hours in cold water. 
Just after the rising, or before the setting of the , 
sun, thick vapours may often be seen hovering 
over the surface of this lake, in which the rays 
'of the sun are reflected, forming numerous small 
rainbows. 

The baths of Burscheid are managed in the 3 
same way as those of Aix-la-Chapelle,, and it is j 
only on account of the proximity of the latter j 
place, that they are not as well frequented. | 
Persons of rank who come to take the waters . 
generally lodge at M. Stefani's, where there is j 
excellent accommodation, and, during the bath- 
ing season, much company. 

As persons may perhaps be pleased to have 
a general history of Aix-la-Chapelle, the princi- 
pal events are here mentioned. The town is 
very ancient, and is spoken of by Ptolemy, under 
the name of Veterra. However fabulous the t 
tale may be of a Roman named Granus having 
first discovered the springs of Aix-la-Chapelle, 
and settled there, it is certain that the Romans, 
in the time of Caesar and Drusus, were well ac- 
quainted with the country between the Rhine 
and the Meuse. Roman medals have often been > 
found, whilst repairing or cleaning the Imperial 
fountain. A Roman establishment existed near 
the village of Gressenich, three leagues from Aix- 
la-Chapelle, at which place the remains of an a 



TO Al X- LA-CHAPEL LE AND SPA. 369 

ancient Roman road may be seen leading to this 
j city. Bonn, Juliers, Duren, Cologne, and seve- 
ral other places in the vicinity, no doubt owe 
their existence to the Romans, and this is suf- 
■ flcient reason to believe that the environs of 
i Aix-la-Chapelle were known to that nation. The 
opinion of those who pretend that Charlemagne 
: discovered the springs of Aix-la-Chapelle, and 
| founded the city, is false. Charlemagne was 
! born at Aix-la-Chapelle in 742, and was very 
! much attached to this city, which is indebted to 
him for many embellishments, and which he de- 
clared the second city of his great empire, as 
( is evident from the inscription over the gate of 
i his palace. 

Hie sedes regni trans Alps habeatur, caput omnium 
provinciarum et civitatum Galliae. 



This emperor died at his natal town in 814. 
The Normans pillaged Aix-la-Chapelle in 882. 
Henry I. restored it, Otto III. bestowed many 
favours on it, and the subsequent emperors 
granted numerous privileges, which rendered it 
almost independent. 

After the emperors of the Carlovingian race, 
those of the house of Saxony, Franconia, Suabia, 
Habsburg and Luxemburg, were most of them 
crowned at Aix-la-Chapelle. It appears to have 
been an express law of Charles IV., that this city 
should be the place of coronation for the future 
Emperors of Germany. 



870 EXCURSION FROM BONN 

Aix-la-Chapelle has likewise been rendered l 
celebrated by two treaties of peace concluded 
there. The first, May 2, 1668, between France I 
and Spain ; and the second, October 18, 1748, I 
between France, England, and the Netherlands, j 
The 17th century was very unpropitious to this 
city, for in 1614 Spinola issued that extremely 
severe law against the Protestants, which ba- 
nished from the city the richest families, who 
took refuge in Holland, and carried with them 
the industry and the opulence of Aix-la-Chapelle, 
Some internal dissensions, the consequence of a 
bad government, still further hastened the fall 
of this ancient, imperial, and once flourishing 
city, which can never attain, under the most fa- 
vourable circumstances, the distinguished rank 
that it formerly occupied. In 1818 a congress 1 
of the representatives of the principal powers of 
Europe was held here. Aix-la-Chapelle now 
belongs to Prussia. 

Diligences leave Aix-la-Chapelle for Cologne : 
and for Liege every day, and for Maestricht 
three times a week. 

The way from Aix-la-Chapelle to Spa is by 
the Liege road, as far as Battice 7 five leagues dis- 
tant. Near Battice is the frontier, where the 
traveller's luggage will be examined both by the 
Prussian and Belgian authorities. 

A very heavy and sandy road, across a deep 
ravine, leads to the top of the mountain, which 
formerly separated the territory of the city of ' 
Aix-la-Chapelle from that of Limburg. From 



TO AI X-L A-CH APELLE AND SPA. 371 

this mountain there is a delightful prospect of 
the surrounding country, composed of meadows 
! and pasturages, which cover hills of a gentle 
slope. All the country is interspersed with 
I small isolated houses, or groups of three or four, 
; which are partly constructed of stone, and partly 
! of bricks, and are inhabited by persons who gain 
I subsistence by keeping cattle and spinning 
i wool. A great number of country-houses, many 
\ of which are very handsome, appear in various 
i places, half hid by elm and poplar trees ; and as 
far as the eye can reach, may be seen on every 
side flocks of cattle grazing on beautiful pas- 
turages. 

! The great road, on quitting Battice, proceeds 
on the left to Verviers, a town with 16,000 in- 
habitants, which is famous for its manufactories 
of cloth. This place is rapidly increasing in 

1 wealth and population. It has a theatre, erected 
in 1821, and a town-hall. The Emperor is a 
good inn. 

SPA 

Is situated 10 leagues from Aix-la-Chapelle, 
in the mountains of the Ardennes. It occupies 
| the bottom of a valley, around which hills co- 
j vered with woods form an amphitheatre. The 
town is well built, and many of the houses are 
large and handsome. The inhabitants, of whom 
there are about 3000, derive their principal sub- 
sistence from strangers coming to take the wa- 

i 



I 



372 EXCURSION FROM BONN 

i 

ters. The season begin? in May, and ends in 
October ; but the chief influx of visiters is during 
June, July, and August. 

Spa has sixteen mineral springs, the most im- 
portant of which are the Pouhon, the Geronstere, 
the Sauveniere, the Tonnelets, the Groesbeck, 
and the Watroz. The last two, however, are i 
now neglected. 

The Pouhon is situated in the centre of the ; 
town, beneath a portico erected in 1819, and } 
bearing on the front a A la Memoire de Pierre le 
Grand/' Up- stairs is a large hall in which the 
company promenade. Over the entrance to it 
is an inscription in honour of Peter the Great, i 
who visited Spa, and drank the waters here, par- 
ticularly those of the. Geronstere. The Pouhon 
water contains a larger quantity of iron and carbo- 
nic acid than any other, and may be preserved i 
several years if the bottle be well corked. About 
1000 bottles are daily exported. Its tempera- 
ture is 50° of Fahrenheit, or 8° of Reaumur. 
Persons who visit the spring for a fortnight, ge- : 
nerally pay five or six francs, but there is no 
fixed price. 

The Geronstere is about two miles from Spa, 
half way up the mountains, on the south side of 
the town. Adjoining it is the keeper's house, 
and a piece of ground laid out as a promenade. 
The water has a disagreeable smell, which it soon 
loses on settling. The temperature is 49° of 1 
Fahrenheit, or 7° 55' of Reaumur. 

The Sauveniere, about one mile and a half 



I 

TO AIX-L A-CHAPELLE AND SPA. 373 

from Spa, on the, road to Malmedy, is sur- 
; rounded by a plantation of wood. The tem- 
1 perature is 49° 5' Fahrenheit, or 7° 77' Reau- 
mur. 

I The Tonnelets are about a mile from Spa. 

I They are so called because the water was for a 
long time inclosed in a tun or cask (tonnelet). 

i The temperature of these springs is 49° 50' Fah- 

! renheit, or 7° 77' Reaumur. They supply hot 
and cold baths, which are much frequented. 

I The waters of the Spa are useful in innumera- 
ble chronic diseases connected with an impaired 
state of the digestive organs. They are parti- 
cularly beneficial in simple indigestion, hypo- 

! chondriasis, and gout. The stranger will of 
course consult a physician previously to taking 
them, as an indiscriminate use has sometimes 
proved fatal. 

1 Spa contains a Redoute or Assembly Room for 
balls, concerts, and plays ; and two Vauxhalls, 
where balls are given, and gaming is permitted. 
| The principal walks are the Four o'Clock Pro- 
| menade, and the Seven o'Clock Promenade, so 
called from the hours at which they are fre- 
quented. The winding walk up the mountain 
commands fine views, and leads to a neat tem- 
ple called the Pavilion, from which there is a 
! beautiful prospect. Near the entrance to the 
! Seven o'Clock Promenade is M. Wolff's Cabinet 
I of Natural History, where the traveller may pro- 
| cure specimens of the minerals found in the vi- 
I cinity. 

2 K 



374 



EXCURSION FROM BONN 



Besides its mineral springs, Spa is celebrated J 
for its manufactories of wooden toys, ladies' work- 
boxes, snuff-boxes, &c, in which it carries on a 
considerable trade. They are made of the beech 
wood obtained in the vicinity, and afterwards 
painted with landscapes, flowers, animals, &c. ] 

The language of the inhabitants of Spa is a 
peculiar dialect, but strangers may make them- 
selves understood in French. 

Inns. The principal are the Orange and the 
York, the Flanders, the Pays Bas, and the Prince 
de Galles. At all of these there is a table d'hote 
at three francs. 

Lodgings. Furnished lodgings may be obtain- 
ed for any period, and at almost any price, ac- 
cording to their accommodation. A tolerable 
sitting and bed-room for one or two persons, 
from three to five francs per day. A small house, 
ten francs. 

The environs of Spa afford many pleasing ex- 
cursions. Franchimont, one league and a half 
from Spa, is an old castle situated on a height, 
commanding a fine view. It was once a place 
of great strength, but is now only a mass of 
ruins. Spa and Verviers formerly belonged to 
the Marquisate of Franchimont, which was given 
as a present to the Chapter of Liege, by the Em- 
peror Louis, or rather passed to this chapter as 
a right, under Bishop Balderich. Half a league 
from Franchimont is the foundry of Marteau. 

The Cascade of Coo, or Stabloo, three leagues 
from Spa, is situated in the territory of the an- 



TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE AND SPA. 375 

cient abbey of Stabloo. It is formed by the lit- 
> tie river Ambl eve, which is here about 12 feet 
wide, and falls about 40 feet. The surrounding 
mountains present a splendid scene. 

A more minute account of Spa may be found 
in Boyce's Belgian Traveller. 



376 



VIII. FROM BONN TO COLOGNE. 

Near Bonn the course of the Rhine again 
becomes more rapid. Opposite this town is 
Benel ; and on the right, likewise, a little lower, ■> 
is the village of Schrvarzrheindorf. At the latter J 
place there was formerly a convent of noble la- 
dies, originally inhabited by nuns of the Bene- 1 
dictine order. This convent was founded in 1 152 
by the Elector Arnaud II. of Weda, who was in- s 
terred there. At some distance from this place, 1 
in the interior of the country, is Vilich, the an- { 
cient Velike, with a similar convent, which was ! 
founded in 985 by Megingoz, Count of Guel- 
ders, and his wife Gerbirg, daughter of Godfrey, 
Count of the Ardennes. 

On the right bank, half a league below 
Schwarzrheindorfj the Sieg (Segus) falls into the 
Rhine. This small river is sometimes very sud- 
denly increased by the waters from the moun- 
tains, and it then forms a new course. It con- 
tains a great number of salmon, some of which 
weigh from thirty to fifty pounds. This river 
gave its name to the small town and ancient ab- I 
bey situated two leagues from Bonn. Siegburg 
is at the foot of a lofty and isolated mountain, at 
the top of which is the convent of Siegburg, and 
a church. The chapel of this church contains 1 
the tomb of St. Anno, who died in 1175, and in 
honour of whom was written the celebrated Ger- 
man hymn preserved by Opitz. 



TO COLOGNE. 377 

J 

At the top of this mountain, in the 11th cen- 
jtury, there was a strong castle which its pos- 
sessor, the Palatinate Count Henry, gave to 
Archbishop Anno, of the house of Sonnenberg, 
about the year 1060. Anno transformed this 
castle into an abbey of Benedictines. The moun- 
tain is about three quarters of a league in circum- 
ference, and is almost covered with vines. The 
! view from it is very extensive, the whole course 
| of the Rhine between the Seven Mountains and 
Cologne may be distinctly seen. Hills, valleys, 
i islands, mountains, cities, market towns, and 
hamlets, successively present themselves : and 
i on every side small rivers and rivulets are seen 
flowing towards the Rhine. 

Opposite the mouth of the Sieg is the village 
of Graurheindorf, with an ancient convent of nuns, 
j At this place the Roer falls into the Rhine. 
Near the right bank is the island of Grapenwdrth, 
where, in 1620, the Dutch established a fort, to 
which they gave the name of PfafTenmiitze 
(Priest's Cap). This fort was taken two years 
afterwards by the Spaniards, who called it Isa- 
bella's fort. 

East of the Rhine may now be seen the vil- 
lages of Bergheim and Mondorf, near the old 
mouth of the Sieg. The traveller will then find 
himself enclosed by the two banks of the Rhine, 
which are so raised and planted with willows 
that he may fancy himself on a canal in the 
middle of Holland. The mountains disappear, 
and with them the charms of the valley of the 
Rhine. 



•378 



VIII. FROM BONN 



The journey from Bonn to Cologne by land is 
by far the most agreeable. On the left of the 
road is a fertile plain, bordered with heights sur- 
mounted by woods, and on the right are the 
mountains of the grand duchy of Berg. The 
Rhine occasionally appears covered with masts 
and sails. 

Not far from the river, on the left bank, are 
the neat villages of Hersel, Udorf, with a wind- 
mill, and Widdig. On the right are Rheid and 
Neiderkassd, surrounded by vineyards and ara- 
ble lands. The traveller continues to see the 
Seven Mountains behind him till they are wholly 
lost from his view in the environs of the village 
of Urfel, which is situated a little lower on the 
left bank of the river, where the Rhine changes 
its direction. They again appear for a short 
time at the places where the Rhine bends. 

At some distance from Urfel, on the right 
bank, is Lulsdorf, where the Emperor Frederick 
III., then duke of Juliers, established a toll- 
house. 

Near the villages of Oberwessling and Nieder- 
xcessling, and still nearer the village of Godorf, 
all situated on the left bank of the Rhine, the 
river turns to the right, and then forms a vast 
lake, surrounded by a delightful country. At a 
distance of five leagues may be seen the chateau 
Bensbergy belonging to the ancient Electors 
of the Palatinate, where there was formerly a 
small collection of good pictures of the Flemish 
school, which has since been sent to Munich. 

There are few villages on the banks of the 



TO COLOGNE. 



379 



river. On the left are Surth and Weiss, and on 
the right Langen, Oberzundorf, and Niederzundorf. 
Beyond these places the banks of the river be- 
come flatter. 

Zundorf, two leagues on this side Cologne, 
carries on a considerable trade. Colonial mer- 
chandise, many natural productions, and others 
from the manufactories of the grand duchy of 
Berg, are sent from this place to the Upper 
Rhine ; and wines brought from Mayence and 
the Moselle are conveyed thence to the Lower 
Rhine. 

On approaching the village of Rodenkirchen, 
on the left, and Poll, which is situated on the 
right, at the end of a small wood of willows, the 
traveller first perceives the city of Cologne, 
surrounded by a wall of black basaltes, and 
crowned by numerous steeples and ships' masts. 

COLOGNE. 

The city of Cologne, formerly one of the most 
flourishing in Germany, extends, in the form of 
a crescent, along the left bank of the Rhine, 
which forms a creek there one league and a half 
in extent. The length of the city on the banks 
of the river, from the tower of Bayenthurm to 
that called Thurmchen (turret), is nearly a 
league. 

This remarkable city owes its origin to an 
entrenched camp of the Romans, established by 
Marcus Agrippa, on the riclge which extends 
from the mountain called Mount of the Capitol 



380 VIII. FROM BONN 

(St. Mergen), as far as that called Mariengnad- 
enberg, and was watered by the arm of the 
Rhine, formed by an island that divided the 
river in the place now called altes Rheinufer street 
(ancient bank of the Rhine). This camp formed 
the capital of the Ubians (Oppidum Ubiorum), \ 
who first lived on the right bank of the Rhine, 
and afterwards went over to the left, whilst under !: 
Agrippa. This city was afterwards enlarged by js 
a Roman colony, which the Emperor Claudius 
sent there to please his wife Agrippina, and from 
her it received the name of Colonia Agrippina. 
This empress was born in the city of the Ubians, 
during the campaigns of her father Germanicus. i 

Vitellius was proclaimed emperor there, and 
there also Trajan filled the office of imperial 
legate, when Nerva intended he should reign 
with him. Many of the soi-disant tyrants estab- ; 
lished their residence there, and Sylvanus was 
proclaimed emperor in this city, and assassinated 
on the spot where the church of St. Severin now 
stands. 

Cologne was surrounded by walls, even when 
it was the capital of the Ubians. The Romans 
enlarged it considerably, and made it an irregu- 
lar square. Its limits at that time may now be \ 
ascertained with tolerable certainty. The line 
from the tower of Bayenthurm to the gate of 
Trankgasse-street, descending the Rhine, deter- j 
mined its length, and its boundary on the side 
of the Rhine. Above this gate is the Franken- 
thurm (tower of the Franks), the name of which 
indicates its authors ; and on the wall towards 

1 



j • 

TO COLOGNE. ,381 

j the Rhine may still be, seen figures representing 
j Franks. If the traveller proceeds thence to the 
' convent of St. Andrew, across Trankgrasse-street, 
he will see on his left the ancient wall of the town 
! and the gate PfafFenpforte, called by the Romans 
Porta Flammea and Porta Paphia. On this gate 
is the following inscription C. C. A. A. (Co- 
lonia. Claudia. Agrippina. Augusta.) If the tra- 
i veller then proceeds towards the arsenal, he will 

I see on his left an ancient convent, which is situ- 
j ated as its name (auf der Burgmauer) denotes, on 

I I the old wall of the town. This wall continues in 
1 a western direction till it reaches the arsenal, be- 
hind which it turns towards the south. No traces 
of it are then visible for some time, and it does 
not again appear till the commencement of the 
street Ehrenstrasse (Street of Honour) ; so called 
on account of the triumphal arch, which is still 

1 in existence there. If the traveller enters by this 
gate, he will find himself in the most modern part 
of the town. The wall continues from the gate 
PfafFenpforte, towards* the south, as far as the 
convent of the Apostles, along the middle of the 
street leading to the triumphal arch, to the con- 
vent just named. Its direction from this convent 
was south, but all traces of it are lost in the en- 
virons of ihe church of Pantaleon ; it probably 
extended to the Rhine, where the Rheinpforte 
(gate of the Rhine), which still exists, formed the 
extremity of its ancient boundary. The environs 
of the spot where the chartreuse is situated are 
called Martinsfeld, and this was probably the 
Field of Mars. 



382 



VIII. FROM BONN 



In the time of the Romans, the city, towards 
the Rhine, had quite a different appearance,, as 
the abbey of St. Martin was situated on an island, 
and it is said that the church of St. Cunibert 
stood where the bed of the river now is. 

Cologne continued to be the capital of the 
lower part of Rhenish Gaul till the Franks, called 
Repuarii, gained possession of the country, about 
the year 462. Very few monuments of these 
ancient masters of the universe now exist. It is 
possible that the square Burghof is where the 
Roman Emperors had a palace, and where the 
Kings of the Franks afterwards occasionally re- 
sided. A great part of the statues, columns, in- 
scriptions, &c. may likewise have been conveyed 
to Ingelheim, to decorate the palace of Charle- 
magne ; many of the other monuments have found 
a place in the church of Aix-la-Chapelle, and 
others perished during the devastations of the 
Huns. Near the Aar, which is perhaps the Ara 
Ubiorum of Tacitus, is an inscription, and in 1655 
the magistrates of the city erected a statue of 
Mars at this place, in memory of the temple which 
once stood there. 

The ancient convent of Mommersloch was, 
perhaps, formerly called Lacus Mummi, which is 
said to have been the name of one of the fifteen 
families who came from Rome to Cologne during 
the reign of Trajan. It is also remarkable, that, 
till the occupation of the city by the French, 
there were patrician families, magistrates clothed 
in the consular gown, lictors, &c. 

A no less striking proof of the long residence 



TO COLOGNE. 383 

| 

of the Romans in this country is the subter- 
ranean aqueduct from Treves to Cologne. All 
the researches of antiquaries to discover for 
I what purpose the Romans constructed this work 
j have proved fruitless. It has certainly never 
j been a great road, as some have supposed, 
I although a great road may have run parallel to 
| it. The opinion of those who think that by this 
I canal the inhabitants of Treves received their 
j wines from Cologne, is equally devoid of proba- 
j bility. The first traces of this aqueduct appear 
in the place called Schleifkotten, not far from 
Cologne ; it then passes to EfTern, Hermiilheim, 
Fischenich, Bischofmaar, Lohemiihl, opposite 
Bruhl, to Walberberg, Rendorf, Martinsdorf, 
Rosberg, Kadorf, Hemmerich, Waldorf, Brenig, 
Buschdorfer Hof, Hoverwald behind Alfter, to 
Buschhoven, Morenhoven, Wingarden, Antweiler 
Salzfey, Burgfey, Munstereifel, Eisenfey, Weyer, 
Kali, Heister, Kaldenich, Steinfeld, Marmagen, 
Schmittheim, Mitterwald, Bittburg, Wasserbil- 
iich, and Treves. 

The Emperor Constantine erected at Cologne a 
stone bridge over the Rhine, the foundations of 
which may still be seen when the water is low. 

Clovis was proclaimed King of the Franks at 
Cologne in 508. Pepin, son of Charles Martel, 
likewise became King of the Franks after being 
Duke of Cologne. It was in the 1st century, or 
according to others in the 4th, that Maternus 
became the first bishop. In 747, Agiloph II. 
took the title of archbishop. In the interval 
between the years 870 and 890, whilst the city 



384 



VIII. FROM BONN 



was under the government of Gunthar and Willi- 
bert, it was pillaged by the Normans. Otto the 
Great united it to the empire of Germany in the 
10th century ; he granted it numerous privileges, 
and put it under the protection of his brother 
Bruno, Archbishop of Cologne and Duke of 
Lorraine. 

Archbishop Philip of Heinsberg enlarged the 
city of Cologne considerably. He destroyed the 
old city wall in 1186, in order to include in the 
new one the churches of St. Severing St. Panta- 
leon, St. George's, St. Maurice, the Apostles, St. 
Gereon, St. Ursula, and St. Cunibert, which were 
all situated outside, and to give room for the po- 
pulation, that was rapidly increasing. The cir- 
cumference of this wall is 6182 paces of five feet 
each ; it is surmounted by eighty-three towers, 
many of which are in ruins, and has thirteen large 
gates. In constructing this wall, there was dis- 
covered in the ancient cemeteries a large quan- 
tity of bones, which were supposed to be the re- 
mains of martyrs. 

Cologne made a conspicuous figure in the 
middle ages, when it was the principal support of 
the powerful Hanseatic league. At that time it 
was able to supply 30,000 men capable of bear- 
ing arms , and some idea of its opulence may 
be formed, when 69 convents, 11 of which were 
of noble ladies, 19 parish churches, and 49 
chapels, were supported by the riches and piety 
of the inhabitants. 

Superstition and bad government in some mea- 
sure diminished the opulence of this city during 



TO COLOGNE. 



385 



the 15th century. On Bartholomew's day, 1425, 
ail the Jews were driven out of Cologne. An in- 
surrection having taken place, some years after- 
wards, amongst the clothweavers, the magistrates 
caused 1700 looms to be burnt; in consequence 
of which the proprietors of them quitted this city 
and went to Aix-la-Chapelle, Verviers, Eupen, 
and other places, where they founded cloth ma- 
nufactories that are still in a flourishing state. In 
1618 all the Protestants were expelled from the 
town; more than 1400 houses were abandoned, 
and their possessors settled at Miihlheim, Diis- 
seldorf, Crefeld, Sohlingen, &c. Cologne sub- 
mitted to the French, Oct. 6, 1794, and became 
the chief place of an arondissement. The Rus- 
sians entered the city on St. Felix's day in 1814. 
It now belongs to Prussia, and is the seat of ad- 
ministration for the Duchess of Cleves, Berg and 
Juliers. 

The city of Cologne now contains about 7400 
i houses and 58,000 inhabitants. Before the occu- 
i pation of it by the French, it contained 12,000 
I mendicants, who had particular stations, which 
j they left as an inheritance to their children, 
i There were then 2500 ecclesiastics of both 
j sexes, and about 6000 citizens. The number 
of the latter has considerably increased since 
that time. Kitchen-gardens and vineyards oc- 
cupy more than a quarter of the city. 

The inhabitants are singular in their physi- 
ognomy, their language, and their manners, and 
bear evident marks of being the descendants of 
foreign colonies. 

2 L 



386 VIII. FROM EON N 

The most beautiful public squares are— the 
New Market, with walks of linden-trees, and 
the Hay, or Altenmarkt, in which the Exchange 
is situated. Some few of the streets are broad, 
light, and pleasant, but most of them are very 
disagreeable. Most of the houses are of ancient 
date, though some of them are remarkable for : 
their modern architecture. !l 

One of the greatest curiosities in this city is ji 
the Cathedral, which, although never finished, 
may be considered one of the finest monuments c 
of ancient German architecture. Archbishop : 
Engelbert of Berg planned this building, and his i 
successor, Conrad of Hochsteden, commenced it 
in 1248. The work was carried on till 1499. 

It is built in the form of a cross : the arches 
are supported by a quadruple row of 64 columns. 
Including the semi-columns and those of the 
portico, there are more than 100. The four 
columns in the middle are thirty feet in circum- 
ference, and each of the hundred columns is sur- 
mounted by a chapiter different from the others. 
The two towers, which were intended to be 500 
feet high, remain unfinished ; the northern one J 
is not more .than twenty-one feet above the 
ground, and the other is little more than half the 
intended height. In the latter is the great bell, 
which weighs 2.5,000 pounds. It requires twelve 
men to put it in motion, and when it strikes, 
causes the immense tower to shake. At the top 
of this tower may still be seen the crane used in 
raising the stones brought from the mountain of 
Drachenfels, one entrance of which now bears 



TO COLOGNE. 



887 



the name of the Cathedral Quarry, This tower 
likewise commands a fine view of the whole city 
of Cologne. 

Only the choir of the church and the chapels 
surrounding it have been finished. The columns 
in the nave of the church terminate at a ceiling, 
composed of simple planks, covered with slates. 
In the choir is a beautiful marble reading-desk, 
and the grand altar is covered with a superb 
table of black marble, sixteen feet long and nine 
broad. Before it stand four immense brass 
candlesticks. This altar is ornamented with two 
modern statues, those of Mary and Peter, which 
rest on each side of it as wings. They are carved 
in wood, and painted white. In the middle is a 
tabernacle, decorated with seven columns ; the 
i idea of which was taken from a passage in the 
Proverbs of Solomon, chap. ix. v. 1. and follow- 
ing, — " Wisdom hath builded her house, she 
I hath hewn out her seven pillars/' &c. These 
| words may be seen in Latin on the back of the 
I altar. The columns, which are of white mar- 
| ble, are fluted, and superbly ornamented with 
chapiters and cornices. The whole of this work 
is of a strange taste, not at all according with 
| the fine architecture of the cathedral. 

This altar has been put in the place of a chef- 
d'oeuvre of the plastic art,' which had been de- 
stroyed. It consisted of an antique monument, 
of the greatest perfection, which was in har- 
imony with the rest of the building; it was a 
I very plain table,, supported by black feet, and 
I covered with an abacus, the sides of which were 



388 VIII. FROM BONN 

ornamented with figures in demi-relief, of white 

marble. The chandeliers were placed in the i 

centre of this table. The walls of the sanctuary jj 

were covered on one side by a majestic taber- p 

nacle, and on the other by several rows of high i) tt 

seats. On the four corners of the altar were p ar 

four bronze columns, borne by genii. This asto- \ tn 

nishing work was more than sixty feet high, and | ft 
reached to the roof. It was considered a fine 

specimen of ancient German architecture, but it I 

was broken and thrown down in 1769, in conse- p on 

quence of the advice of some ignorant members i is 

of the chapter. The little harmony between the [ J[ 

structure of the cathedral and the form of the & ao 

present altar, constructed at great expense, of- |» de 

fends the eye of every connoisseur, and has a & ed 

particularly bad effect. s ac 

The two tombs in the choir, which contain the ; thi 

remains of two brothers, Adolphus and Anthony, I ] a t 

Counts of Schauenburg (both Archbishops of | id 

Cologne), are ornamented with figures of white t of 
marble, and with foliage in demi-relief. 

The walls of the choir are covered with tapes- j p ie 

try, the designs of which were taken from seve- |t too 

ral drawings by Rubens. It is said that these [ p 

tapestries were given to the church by Count | ^ 

Furstenburg, who wished to become archbishop. ^ ^ 

The stone statues of the twelve Apostles, |) | 

clothed in robes embroidered with gold, which \\ f 011 

are situated on one side of the column, may f ft 

likewise be considered as beautiful monuments j ^ 

of old German sculpture. i ^ 

! 



TO COLOGNE. 



389 



Over the entrance to the choir is an excellent 
organ. The paintings on the windows in the 
interior of the choir, and in the north side of the 

! nave, are well worthy of attention. Amongst 
the numerous figures composing these pictures 
are the arms of several ancient noble and pa- 
trician families ; namely, those of Hartfaust, 

| Overstolp, and Wisen. 

j Behind the grand altar is the chapel of the 
I Three Kings, who, it is pretended, worshipped 
j our Saviour. It is constructed of marble, and 
is of the Ionic order. It was built by the Elector 
Maximilian Henry of Bavaria. After the taking 
and entire destruction of the city of Milan, Fre- 
derick I., of the house of Hohenstaufen, present- 
ed to Archbishop Reinold of Cologne, who had 
I accompanied him in his expedition, the bones of 
the three Magi, which were deposited by the 
latter in this chapel in 1170. The old tomb, in 
j which are the remains of the three Kings, and 
of the martyrs Nabor and Gregory of Spoleto, 
was robbed, during the troubles of the French 
Revolution, of a great part of its treasure. The 
tomb was divided, as may still be seen, into three 
parts. The lower part, which is the most spa- 
cious, contained the bones of the three Kings, 
whose heads were placed separately in the mid- 
dle, on the lid of which are these three names, 
formed by rubies, Caspar, Melchior, Balthazar. 
These heads were ornamented with very valuable 
j gold crowns, each of which weighed six pounds,, 
and was richly adorned with diamonds and ru- 
2 l 3 



390 



VIII. FRON BONN 



bies. In the part above the lid of the middle, 1 
were the bodies of St. Felix and St. Nabor ; and f 
in the upper part are the bones of St. Gregory. \ 
The heads of these three latter were contained 
in silver busts, which were used to ornament the 
altar on feast days. I 1 

The chest which contained the above-men- 
tioned reliques was ornamented with bas-reliefs, 
representing arches, supported by small columns, : 
and enamelled with great beauty. All the in- 
scriptions were in Latin, and the letters in gold, 
on a ground of blue enamel. The cornices and : 
borders were ornamented with a great number of J 
precious stones, pearls, and gems. The grand 
chapter of Cologne having fled to Aremberg in 
Westphalia, in 1794, took with it a great part of 
the treasures of the cathedral, amongst which 
was the tomb just mentioned. In 1804 it was 
returned to Cologne, but in a very different state. 
The sculptures had been much disfigured in the 
carriage, and some of them wholly destroyed. 
Many of the precious stones, gems, and enamels 
were lost, and others broken. The superb crowns 
were likewise wanting, and have been replaced by 
others, which are only of gilt metal, ornamented 
with pearls. Every thing that was possible has 
been done to restore this chest of reliques to its 
original state, and the effort has met with con- 
siderable success, under the direction of Profes- 
sor WallrafF.* The curiosities have been replaced 

* This learned antiquary died March 18, 1824, at seventy- li 

'fM& 1 



TO COLOGNE. 



391 



by gilt metals of exquisite workmanship, and 
partly by gems, precious stones, and enamels, 
given by the inhabitants of Cologne. 

Before the chapel of the Three Kings are the 
tombs of the archbishops of the house of Bava- 
ria. Their monuments and epitaphs decorate 
the walls, which are covered with marble. The 
remains of Queen Mary de Medicis are likewise 
deposited in this place. 

In the chapels around the choir may be seen 
the tomb of Archbishop Philip of Heinsberg, the 
bronze statue of Conrad of Hochstetten, that 
was lately damaged, and the silver coffin of St. 
Engelbert, the chasing of which is admirable. 

An old picture of 1410, representing the tute- 
lary saint of the town, which has been some years 
placed in one of the chapels of the choir, like- 
wise merits observation. In the cathedral, also, 
is a curious picture of the Adoration of the Magi, 
painted by Filp Kalf in 1406. 

A staircase on the left side of the choir, close 
to the eighth pillar, leads to the library of the 
cathedral, and to the hall called Goldene Hammer 
(Golden Chamber). The library formerly con- 
I tained a very fine collection of books, and a great 
! number of manuscripts of the time of Charle- 
magne, all of which were taken away during the 
Revolution. The doors of the library are curious- 
ly carved, and the wardrobes contain the dresses 

six years of age. He left his collections to Cologne, his 
native town. 



392 



VIII. FROM BONN 



of the priests. The golden chamber, on the 
side of the library, likewise contained a treasury, 
with numerous curiosities, before the invasion of 
the French. Amongst them were several beau- 
tiful chandeliers, a superb box richly ornamented 
with diamonds, a gilt cross decorated with dia- 
monds, the statues of the twelve Apostles in 
silver gilt, &c. This treasure was carried to Arens- 
berg, but part of it was restored in 1804. Near 
the cathedral is a seminary for priests, and to 
it is attached a chapel. 

The church of St. Mary of the Capitol is 
situated in the district where the Capitol of 
the Romans formerly was, still called the Mount 
of the Capitol. Plectrude, wife of Pepin, and 
mother of Charles Martel, founded the church 
and convent of this name. Her statue may 
be seen on the wall behind the choir towards 
the street ; but her tomb, which has a Latin 
inscription on it, is in the church before the 
choir. Opposite this tomb is that of Saint 
Ida, who was a relation of Plectrude, and the 
first abbess of the convent. The upper part of 
the choir, and the colonnade of round arches, 
were built in the 8th century, but the greater 
part of the church, particularly the top of the 
nave, appears to have been re-constructed in 
the 14th, the church having suffered much 
during the invasion of the Normans. In this 
church are several pictures from the ancient 
church of St. Martin, amongst which there are 
some by A. Braun, an artist who was cotempo- 



TO COLOGNE. 393 

rary with Rubens. It has likewise a superb 
organ made by the celebrated Konig, sen. of 
Cologne, who also made the one at Nimeguen. 

In the convent, which once formed part of this 
church, the unfortunate Mary de Medicis, wife of 
Henry IV. and mother of Louis XIII. passed in 
! misery the last moments of her life, after she had 
! been driven from France by the intrigues of Riche- 
lieu. 

The church of St. Gereon and of the Martyrs, 
was built in 1066, by Archbishop Anno, at the 
i same spot on which the temple erected by St. 
| Helena formerly stood. Its cupola, with three 
j galleries, is a grand and astonishing work; and 
I the church is certainly one of the finest in Co- 
ilogne. St. Gereon and his brave warriors are 
buried there, and in the church may be seen the 
heads of these martyrs. In a vault called Crypt a, 
under the church, are two chapels, the floors of 
which are in ancient mosaic work. A highly 
polished column of black and white granite, 12 
feet high, which had been at this church since 
the time of the Empress Helena, was taken to 
Paris by the French, with the columns of Aix- 
la-Chapelle. On the side of the altars, at the 
entrauce of the church, are two pictures, by C. 
Schutt and Geldorf, two artists of Cologne. 

The church of St. Cunibert, near the Rhine, 
is a large building. The altar is in imitation of 
the grand altar at St. Peter's at Rome. The door 
is ornamented with sculptures in the style of the 
11th century. The tomb of St. Cunibert, which 



394 



VIII. FROM BONN 



was much celebrated for its antique ornaments, 
was greatly injured during the government of the 
French. A large antique cup of coloured sar- 
donyx, ornamented with a valuable precious stone, 
was broken by some ignorant jewellers, and the 
stone sold at a very low price to a Pole. 

The church of the Apostles, near the New 
Square, is likewise a superb monument of ancient 
German architecture of the 11th or 12th century, 
but it has been partly disfigured by modern ar- 
chitecture. 

Another church, which is also very ancient, is 
that of St. Peter. It was, no doubt, built on the 
ruins of a Roman temple, the vestibule of which 
still exists. Rubens, who was baptized in this 
church, on St. Peter's day, composed for it his 
beautiful picture of the crucifixion of that Apos- 
tle. This painting has always been considered 
one of his chefs-d'oeuvre, and contains every thing { 
for which this great artist was distinguished, al- 
though it must be confessed that Rubens has not 
chosen the time well, a defect that has been at- 
tributed to Guido Reni in a similar composition. 
This picture was taken away by the French in U 
1804, and conveyed to Paris, but it has since r 
been restored to the church. While this picture 
was at the Louvre, a copy of it, the same size,; 
was made by a Prussian student, and this is now j 
exhibited as well as the original ; the former be- 
ing placed on one side of the frame, and the lat- 
ter on the other. 

The font in which Rubens was baptized is still 



TO COLOGNE. 395 

shown here, as well as the tombstone of his 
father. 

The ancient convent of the ladies of St. 
| Ursula is remarkable for its relation to the 
legend of that saint, and her 11,000 virgins. All 
! the church is filled with bones, which are cu- 
1 riously disposed in glass cases and frames of 
| various sizes. Some of these cases contain 24, and 
' others from 90 to 100 skulls. On the right side 
| near the entrance, is an apartment called goldene 
hammer (golden chamber), in which are preserved 
» j the heads of many of these 11,000 virgins. The 
! ; history is represented in 15 pictures in the choir, 
i j which are copies of the originals. These, however, 
i I are also kept here, having been restored since the 
> l peace. The saint, with her numerous train, is 
■ j seen landing at the harbour of Cologne, from a 

I large vessel. The painting of the grand altar 
; representing the death of St. Ursula, is by C. 

Schiitt ; and the other two on the side of it are 
t by Herrgots. 

In one of the chapels is a Holy Family, copied 
i. from Raphael. There is also an Archangel from 
i the same great master. The originals are at 
e Paris. 

The church of the Assumption, or the ancient 
?, church of the Jesuits, is not remarkable for the 
» beauty of its architecture ; but the interior is de- 
corated with ornaments, the principal of which 
t- is a superb bench of white marble for the com- 
municants, with arabesques and bas-reliefs. 

II Near the grand altar are several pictures painted 



396 



VIII. FROM BONN 



by Schiitt. The walls of the choir are embel- 
lished with figures of the Twelve Apostles. The 
pulpit, the organ, and the floor, which is of mar- f 
ble, are also very profusely ornamented. There 
are several cases likewise in this church contain- 
ing sculls. 

On the side of the church is the ancient col- 
lege of Jesuits, in which there was formerly a : 
valuable library, and a splendid collection of cu- 
riosities. The French carried away the best of « 
them, which consisted of a volume of MS. let- 1 
ters from Leibnitz to the Jesuit Brosses,, nume- 
rous old and scarce prints, curious minerals, 
1400 Greek and Roman medals, a tolerable com- 
plete collection of silver and copper coins, from 
the time of the middle age, a great quantity of 
vases, urns, and ancient gods, a valuable collec- 
tion of more than 600 original drawings from the 
best painters of every school, and a similar col- 
lection of ancient engravings. There is still a 
catalogue of the pieces in the two latter. The 
Empress Catherine wished to give 20,000 rubles, 
and a much larger sum was offered by Duke 
Albert of Saxe-Teschen, but the magistrates 
would not allow the city to be deprived of these 
treasures, which were intended to be placed in 
an academy of the fine arts then about to be 
formed. 

Amongst the great number of other churches 
and chapels, there are many which were proba- 
bably erected when the Christian religion was 



TO COLOGNE. 



397 



first disseminated on the banks of the Rhine, 
i and which would serve as data for a history of 
| German architecture. Some of them are remark- 
| able in other respects. The church of St. Pan- 
: taleon formerly contained the tomb of the Em- 
press Theophania, wife of the Emperor Otto II., 
| and the body of the martyr Albinus : but the re- 
j lies have been removed, and the Protestant ser- 
j vice is now performed here to the Prussian gar- 
I rison. This church, and the convent belonging 
to it, were built in 954 with stone brought from 
I a bridge which formed the junction between Co- 
! logne and Deutz, and which Archbishop Bruno, 
brother of the Emperor Otto the Great, had de- 
stroyed in order to prevent the Franks from pe- 
l netrating Gaul. 

In the church of the ci-devant Minorites, is 
the tomb of the celebrated Duns Scotus, who 
I died at Cologne in 1308, and left fourteen folio 
j volumes of his owa MSS. which were preserved 
by the monks of the convent. 

The church of St. Severin is very old, and dis- 
figured by fantastical pictures. In the floor are 
several marble figures, denoting the place where 
the Emperor Sylvanus was assassinated. 

In the church of Lis, or Lisolphe, is a very 
i remarkable ancient vault, called Maternusgruft. 

The altar-piece, painted by John of Calcar, who 
; was first instructed at Cologne, and afterwards 
, became a pupil of Titian, has been removed. 
The church of the Dominicans has been 
2 M 



598 



VIII. I'HOM BONN 



converted into barracks ; and St. Gorus, or St. 
George, is now devoted to the Protestants. 

St. George is distinguished by a tower of im- < 
mense size, which Archbishop Anno erected before 
the upper gate of the city, notwithstanding the p 
remonstrances of the inhabitants of Cologne. 

All the convents, chapters, and other corpo- f 
rations, which existed at Cologne, were secu- ; 
larized, during the French government: many 
of the churches, convents, and chapels, were f 
destroyed, and others converted into warehouses i 
or manufactories. The beautiful church of An- . 
thony was given up to the Protestants. 

The Town-house of Cologne is no longer used, 
but is still preserved as a relic of antiquity. It p 
has a marble portal, composed of two arches, f 
placed one above another, the upper of which is [ 
in the Roman style, and the lower of the Corin- 
thian order. The spaces between are filled with 
bas-reliefs. The tower, which is of a singular 
form, commands a fine view of the city and its 
environs. The Town-house formerly contained 
several pictures and pieces of tapestry, but these 
have been removed to Berlin. [ 

The most remarkable buildings in Cologne are, 
— I. The building called the Kaufhaus of Gurze- |! 
nich (commercial depot). It has a very large 
hall, where several diets of the empire have been [ 
held, and in which the Emperor Maximilian gave 
several fetes. — 2. The Arsenal, likewise called 
Kornhaus (corn-house), because it was used as , 
a corn-magazine. The building itself is not re- 



TO COLOGNE. 



399 



| mark able, but it contained a very fine collection 
of antiquities, which have been partly destroyed, 
or taken away by the French. The most curious 
of them were:— Apiece of ordnance 13 feet 
long, which was cast at Cologne in 1400. An 
Egyptian Mummy in an old chest, ornamented 

j with iron, and manufactured in Egypt; present- 
ed by the French to Baron Hiibsch, and con- 

1 veyed to Darmstadt with his other curiosities. 

I An ancient German War Chariot, with small 
heavy wheels armed with scythes, and the axle- 
tree furnished with pikes : on this chariot was 
a chest of very thick oak planks, on which were 
the arms of the city of Cologne, and in which 
were loop holes for 8 or 1 archers ; the French 
burnt the wood of this chariot, and the iron was 

| sold. A Roman Coffin, with bas-reliefs and in- 
scriptions. An enormous Cuirass, with arms 
that were used by General John of Wert ; the 
helmet could hardly be lifted, and the lance was 
1 S J feet long. The Armour of the famous Bi- 
shop Bernard of Galen, and of the Swedish ge- 
neral Baudis. This armour, as well as the Ro- 
man coffin, is placed in the College since it has 
been returned from the cabinet of Baron Hiibsch. 
The French likewise took away from the court 
of the arsenal a Roman cippus, with this 
scription : 

L. NASIDIE 
NVS. AGRIPP. 
| TRIBVN. 

LEG. XIII. GEM. 



VIII. FROM BON N 



This arsenal, which was formerly so great an ob- [ 
ject of curiosity, has been since converted partly 
into stables, and partly into a military storehouse. 

3. The Theatre erected in 1829, is capable of 
holding nearly 2000 spectators. Cologne has 
no regular company ; but during the winter, Ger- 
man actors play three times a-week. 

4. The Exchange in the Hay Market, erected 
by public subscription in 1820. It is most fre- - 
quented between twelve and one. 

Amongst the other public buildings which are : 
worthy of observation, may be mentioned the ' 
Barracks in the New Market, erected in 1823. 

The traveller should not omit to visit the house 
of loach, No. 10, rue de Tival, which was the 
birth-place of the celebrated P. P. Rubens, and ■ 
the residence of Queen Mary de Medicis. The 
front room is that where Marie de Medicis died, 
and in which Rubens was born. The house in 
1820 was occupied by a coachmaker, but is now 
a kind of tea-garden, wine, and other refresh- 
ments, being sold to the numerous visiters who 
come here to gratify their curiosity. 

The University which, under the last Electors, i| 
was only distinguished by its obstinate resistance 
to the progress of knowledge, was suppressed by 
the French, who established a central school, 
afterwards a college, in its place. The library, 
consisting of 60,000 volumes, has been removed ' 
to Bonn. The Prussian government has since 
founded two colleges, at the Jesuits, and at the 
Carmelites. The Philosophical Cabinet and the 
Botanic Garden which belonged to the Univer- 



TO COLOGNE. 401 

i j 

. ! sity still exist : there is a printed catalogue of 
j the plants in it, amounting to 4000. The green- 
house, in the Ionic style, was built from a design 
f by Professor WallrafT. 

The collection of minerals belonging to this 
institution is now forming, and at present only 
j contains objects from the environs of the Rhine. 
| j Along with these minerals are the antiquities 
. j brought from the arsenal. 

Cologne contains several cabinets of curious 
i ' and interesting objects. The late Professor 
s ; WallrafT left to the town a very extraordinary col- 
lection of prints, pictures, and antiquities. Many 
e of the private houses in Cologne contain excel- 
e I lent pictures, which were executed in the middle 
j j age, when painting had attained to considerable 
8 > | perfection in Germany. M. Memberg likewise 
possesses a great number of pictures painted on 
j j glass. 

y The mineralogical cabinet of Dr. Klocker like- 
. wise deserves notice. It contains fossils of every 
j ; kind which have been found in the environs ot 
Cologne, and which have been arranged accord- 
j ing to the best classification. 
e The most eminent painters now at Cologne 
j are Manskirch, jun., Fuchs, an excellent drafts- 
| ! man, who is very skilful in retouching old pic- 
, tures; Beckenham and Schon, who paint por- 
d traits ; Kaatz and Grein, two good landscape 
e I painters ; and Birnbach, a skilful artist, who has 
j resided some time at Rome, and who has exe- 
e cuted several paintings on glass, in the style of 
2 m 3 



402 



VIII. FROM BONN 



the ancients ; Wilraes, a young and promising [ 
artist ; Noel is a tasteful painter of ornaments ; i 
and Gau is an excellent architect. 

The most distinguished sculptors are the three : 
brothers Imhove, who work in wood, stone, and 
plaster : Nees excels in foliage and bas-reliefs ; h 
and Nolden is considered a good artist in ebony I 
work. 

The cabinet of natural history in the street 
Lyznenstrasse, is an establishment where natural ; 
productions may be bought. The proprietors I 
have no other motive in forming this establish- 
ment but zeal for the study of natural history ; 
and they endeavour to furnish amateurs,, at a mo- 
derate price, with the productions of the different 
countries in the vicinity of the Rhine. They 
distribute catalogues of their stock. 

The greater part of the inhabitants are Catho- 
lics ; the number of Lutherans may be reckoned 
at 600 ; that of the Protestants at 700 ; and that 
of the Jews at £00. 

Manufacture and commerce form the principal 
support of the inhabitants of Cologne. The 
cotton and silk manufactories hold the first rank. 
Cologne has likewise seven manufactories, where 
different kinds of cotton articles are made, such 
as neck and pocket handkerchiefs, nankeens, 
coarse cotton cloths, &c. 

There are four silk manufactories, the most 
celebrated of which belongs to M. Andrea. The 
principal sale for these silks is in Russia, and 



TO COLOGNE. 



403 



j the peace has been very favourable for these 
establishments. 

Another branch of industry carried on in the 
city of Cologne is the manufacture of stockings, 
caps, gloves, flannel, waistcoats, &c. The great- 
er part of these articles are knit, and more than 
150 persons in town and country subsist by this 

I means. 

The cloth manufactory, which was formerly 
! so flourishing, now employs only three looms. 
The snuff manufactories, of which there are ten, 
have resumed their former activity since the 
i departure of the French. The most considerable 
; is that of M. Henry Dumont, who has 125 work- 
men. The others belong to Messrs. Mahlberg, 
Foveaux, Louis Breuer, Detrooz, and others, 
i Cologne has fifteen manufactories of Eau de 
Cologne, the annual sale of which amounts to 
300,000 francs. M. Jean Marie Farina, in the 
Place de Julie, is famous for the manufacture of 
this article ; but there are also several manufac- 
turers of it in the Hohe-Strasse. 

Glue, of which there are seven manufactories, 
has likewise an extensive sale. 

The navigation of the Rhine, which had en- 
tirely ceased during the French government, 
has revived since commerce has become more 
flourishing. At the end of the city, near the 
place called Thiirmchen, the French began to 
construct a harbour, where the numerous vessels 
that come to Cologne might, pass the winter in 



404 



VIII. FROM BONN 



safety ; and there is little doubt but it will soon 
be finished by the present government, as the 
works are going on. It has room for 70 boats. 

The free port is situated near the gate Markt- 
mannspforte, and is the place where boats unload, 
because it has a warehouse fit to receive mer- 
chandise. The staple right, which the city had 
enjoyed from time immemorial, was suppressed 
by the French in 1804. 

Inns. The Grand Rhinburgh, overlooking 
the river ; the Imperial Court ; the Hotel 
d'Angleterre, formerly the Hotel de Prague; 
the Hotel de Mayence near the Post and Dili- 
gence Office ; the St. Esprit on the river side ; 
the Three Kings ; and the Vine. 

From Cologne there are steam-boats several 
times a-vveek during the summer, up the Rhine 
to Mayence, and down the Rhine to Rotterdam. 
There are also passage boats on the river, but 
these have been almost superseded by the steam- 
vessels. 

Diligences leave Cologne for Bonn, Coblentz, 
Dusseldorf, Cleves, Nimeguen, Utrecht, Aix-la- 
Chapelle, &c. 

A boat leaves Cologne for Bonn every morning 
during summer at 6, and arrives at 11. The fare 
is 1| fr. A diligence also starts every morning 
at 6 for Bonn, and arrives at 9. The fare is 2 fr. 

The places of diversion for the inhabitants of 
Cologne consist of several public gardens, which 
are situated in the city. The most frequented of 
these gardens, are, the Kuhberg, in the Schnur- 



i 



TO COLOGNE. 405 

i gasse ; the Steinsgarten, in the same street ; the 
t garden of Weber, near the church of St. Gereon, 
|and several others. Balls are given at Joeger's 
;in the Ehrenstrasse, and at Sittmann's, at the 
! Kuhberg. 

The most interesting places in the environs of 
. Cologne, are the small town of Deutz (Duiz, Tui- 
jtium), situated opposite, and communicating 
jwith, the city by a bridge of boats constructed 
in 1822. It is opened every morning at 6, and 
' every afternoon at 1, for the passage of shipping. 
The Rhine at Cologne is 455 yards in width. 

It is pretended that Deutz owes its origin to 
Teus, or Tuisko, King of Germany. It is much 
more natural to suppose that it derived its name 
from Duytsh (German). It is said also that Her- 
i cules had a temple in this place : and many have 
thought that the great defeat of the Saxons hap- 
pened here in 376. About the commencement 
of the 4th century, the Emperor Constantine 
erected at this place a strong castle, which, in old 
writings, bears the name of Monument um Dutienza. 
There was likewise a bridge then, which formed 
the communication between Deutz and Cologne : 
this bridge, as well as the castle, was destroyed 
by Archbishop Bruno, in the 10th century. At 
various times afterwards, fortifications were erect- 
ed around Deutz; but in 1673 they were de- 
stroyed by the Austrians. It is now fortified, 
and, like Cologne, has seven towers, and other 
considerable works. The ci-devant abbey of Be- 
nedictines, which is situated on the banks of the 



406 



VIII. FROM BONN TO COLOGNE. 



Rhine, has a beautiful appearance. It was 
founded in 1001, by Count Heribert, of Rothen- 
bourg, then Archbishop of Cologne. The bar- 
racks built here in 1824 form a handsome range 
of building. There are also several well-fre- 
quented tea-gardens. 

Inns. The Prince Charles, and the Image of If 

the Virgin. |c 

Three leagues from Deutz is Bensberg, formerly i 

a pleasure chateau of the electors of the Palati- |c 

nate. The pictures painted by Bellucci, Pelle- r 

grini, Milanese, Weenix, Zanetti, Snyders, and r 

others, which this chateau formerly contained, t 

have been conveyed to Munich ; there are still, [i 

however, superb ceilings, ornamented with designs u 

by great masters ; the prospect from the windows f 

and from the cupola of this chateau, is delight- jij 

ful and extensive. !; 

Two leagues and a half from Cologne, passing 

through Muhlheim, is the Abbey of Altenberg, si- k 

tuated on the little river Duhn. It was founded i 

by Evrard, Count of Altena and Berg, in 1133. \\ 
The church is a fine specimen of architecture : 

the first stone was laid in 1255. It suffered \i 
much from fire in 1815, but has been since fitted 

up as the parish church of the neighbouring vil- ;J 

lage. ; 

f 



i 



407 



IX. FROM COLOGNE TO HOLLAND. 

About a league below Cologne, and three 
quarters of a league from Deutz, on the right 
bank of the Rhine, is the small town of Muhlheim, 
in the grand duchy of Berg. This town was al- 
most entirely destroyed by the frosts in the ter- 
rible winter of 1784, but has been since rebuilt 
more pleasant than before. There is a flying 
bridge over the Rhine at this place. It contains 
about 3000 inhabitants, and has some large 
breweries, brandy distilleries, and manufactories 
of silk and velvet. Large quantities of merchan- 
dise, consisting partly of the productions of the 
grand duchy of Berg, particularly of iron, and 
partly of foreign goods, are exported from this 
place to a considerable distance by means of light 
boats. This town is much indebted for its in- 
crease, to the Protestant manufacturers and mer- 
chants who came here from Cologne, where they 
were denied liberty of conscience. 

At this place formerly stood the capital of the 
Ubians, which was in a flourishing state when 
Cologne only bore the name of Oppidum Ubiorum; 
and here, also, it is said, Caesar threw a wooden 
bridge over the Rhine, in the year 3896 A. M. 
Near Muhlheim, the Rhine receives the rivulet of 
Strunderbach, which in the course of a few leagues 
puts in motion more than forty mills, employed in 



408 IX. FROM COLOGNE 

the manufacture of paper, oil, colours, and corn. 
The garden of M. Andrea, at Muhlheim, is worthy 
of observation. 

At some distance from this place appears 
Stamm/ieim, or Stammel, the situation of which is 
picturesque ; and a little farther, on the left, is 
the village of Niel, composed of houses scattered 
over meadows and interspersed with gardens. 

The river then turns a little to the right, and 
at some distance from the bank may be seen the 
market-town of Flittard, surrounded by heaths. 
The Rhine now forms several basins; plains of a 
dreary aspect extend on both sides ; and towards 
the mountains of the country of Berg nothing is 
visible but a few trees and brambles. The pro- 
spect, however, is much more pleasant towards 
Cologne, which, with its numerous steeples, pre- 
sents a fine coup-d'ceil. 

On the right, a league lower, is IViesdorf, and 
on the left Merkenich; and not far from them are 
the mouths of the Lun and of the Wipper. Near 
Rheinkassel, opposite to which the latter river 
falls into the Rhiue, is a remarkable sand-bank, 
called the mountain of Kassel. It extends in an 
oblique direction from the last-mentioned place 
to nearly the middle of the village of Hittorf, si- 
tuated on the right bank ; thus intersecting the 
bed of the river. Its breadth is thirteen yards, 
and the water is seldom more than two feet and 
a half above it in the deepest places. This bank 
is formed of large pebbles, which adhere together 



TO HOLLAND. 



409 



very strongly. It is not, however, dangerous for 
the navigation. 

Langel, which is situated on the left, is sur- 
rounded by a plain of sand ; and Hittorf, on the 
right, has the appearance of a neat Dutch village, 
with houses painted different colours. A great 
number of fish, particularly salmon, are caught 
at this place, and it carries on a considerable 
trade. On quitting Hittorf, the traveller passes 
by the small hamlet of Bley, and half a league 
further reaches Woringen, a small town situated 
on the left bank of the Rhine. 

Woringen is the ancient Bunmcum of the Ro- 
mans. It is probable that it formerly belonged 
to Treves, as the tomb of a knight of that city 
has been found here. In the time of the Romans 
there was certainly a strong castle at this place ; 
and the remains of walls and towers, erected in 
the middle age, are still visible. In 1247, Pope 
Innocent IV. convoked an assembly of princes 
in this town, to deliberate on the election of 
Count William of Holland to the royal dignity. 
The castle in which this assembly was held, 
was rendered very strong in 1284, by Archbishop 
Sigefroy, of the house of Westerburg. About 
four years afterwards, on the heath of Woringen, 
not far from this town, took place the famous 
battle, in which Archbishop Sigefroy fell into the 
hands of his powerful adversary, Count Adolphus 
of Berg, who destroyed the castle. Woringen 
contains 300 houses, and 1500 inhabitants; who 
2 N 



410 



IX. FROM C iirO Q N E 



subsist principally by agriculture, fishing; and na- 
vigation. L 

In the Rhine, just below Woringen, is a place j 

called by the boatmen Plattkals. It is a mass of [j 

stones close to the left bank, and considerably h 

obstructs boats ascending the river. L 

About a league from Woringen, on the side of j, 

the great road, is Dormagen, the Durromagus of j 
the Romans, who had a strong castle there. In 

this place is a post station, and not far from it, > 

on the left bank of the Rhine, is the village of ) 

Rkeinfeld, and the small town of Zons (Sontinnen), $ 

which in old writings is called Friedistraun, or * 
Friedstrom. In 1291, Archbishop Sigefroy built 

a strong castle at this place, and established a [ 

defensive wail round the town, so that it was j 

strong enough to sustain a siege in the 17thcen- 1 
tury against the French and Hessians. The town 

is not large, but pleasant, and contains about L 
1000 inhabitants. 

On the right bank are the market-town of 

Monheim, with a castle, and the villages of Baurn- • 

berg, Burgel, and Ordenback, near which are the j 
mouths of the Rollback and the Ordenback. At 

this place the Rhine makes an immense bend \ 

towards the chateau of Benrath; and owing to [ 
the frequent windings of this river, the distance 

from Cologne to Dusseldorf by water is more E 

than double that by land. The voyage on the | 
Rhine, however, is very pleasant. The surround- 
ing landscapes resemble the pictures of Teniers 

and Waterloo. I 



TO HOLLAND. 411 

The first bend made in the Rhine towards 
I Benrath has been considered by M. de Wiebe- 
! j king one of the most dangerous in this river, as 
^ the ice, which stops there, is the principal cause 
1 of the great inundations that have often taken 
place, and which will be for the future still more 
' j extensive, since the turn of the river is continually 
^ I increasing. 

1 I In the corner of this bend is the village of 
i | Cassel, whence there is a delightful prospect. 
' On the left appears the hamlet of Sturzelherg, 
> i the cottages of which along the bank form a 
| picturesque coup-d'ceil. On the right is an iso- 
I lated house called Muckel or Mickeln, where the 
Rod falls into the Rhine ; and near it, the vil- 
I lage of Itter. 

The traveller next perceives Himmelgeist, a 
village in the grand duchy of Berg, situated in a 
charming country on the right, and on the left 
is Ussem, or Undeshcim. Half a league from this 
place,, and some distance from the Rhine, ap- 
pear the village and chateau of Benrath^ in the 
midst of arable lands, interspersed with groves 
and meadows. This villa was built by the Elec- 
tor Charles Theodore, as a residence for his wife 
after his death. It is well built, and its cu- 
pola commands a fine view of the Rhine, and of 
the mountains in the country of Berg. The gar- 
den which surrounds it is worthy of attention. 

Near Grimmlinghausen, behind which is the 
forest of Falkenwald, or Herderbusch, the river 
turns to the right, towards Wollmerath and the 



412 



IX. FROM COLOGNE 



small village called Auf dem Stein, where a re- 
doubt was erected during the thirty years' war. 
At this place likewise the Rhine makes a dan- 
gerous bend. Some of the inhabitants of Grimm- 
linghausen are employed in making cloth and 
flannel, and this place is remarkable as the spot 
where the great canal is to enter the Rhine. 
This canal is intended to form a junction be- 
tween the R,hine and the Meuse, and between 
the latter and the Scheldt. 

On the right, half a league from Grimmling- 
hausen, is the village of Hamm; and on the left, 
about a quarter of a league from the Rhine, is 
the small town of Neuss, called Novesiu?n, or 
Nora Castra, by the Romans, and probably built 
by Drusus, who made a bridge there over the 
Rhine. Tacitus mentions this place, which 
was then situated (as well as in 1254) close 
to the bank of the Rhine, but is now half 
a league from it. The upper gate, by which the 
traveller enters the town from Cologne, is still 
called the Gate of Drusus. It was at Neuss that 
the XHIth legion took up its winter-quarters in 
the time of Claudius Chilis. 

The town is situated between two small rivers, 
which bear the names of Erft and Krufe, so that 
it is in the middle of an island. The Erft falls 
into the Rhine after crossing numerous meadows : 
it is navigable for vessels of a moderate size from 
Neuss to its mouth. Neuss contains about 1000 
houses and 5400 inhabitants, and is intersected 
from one end to the other by a long street. The 



TO HOLLAND. 



413 



structure of the houses, as well as the manners 

I of the inhabitants, bear evident marks of the 
antique. On the market-place formerly stood 

| the statue of the Emperor Frederick III., who 
assisted the town against Charles of Burgundy, 
surnamed the Bold, and granted it numerous 

j privileges, in consequence of the good conduct 
displayed by its inhabitants on that occasion. 
These privileges consisted in the right to coin 
money, and to hunt; freedom from all external 
jurisdiction; a permission to have five great fairs 

i annually, and to add to the arms of the town a 
golden eagle on a black ground. 

Behind the Market Square is the church of 
St. Quirin, which forms part of an ancient con- 
vent of noble ladies. It is constructed according 
to the rules of ancient German architecture, and 
has a square and lofty tower. Above the choir 
is a cupola, surmounted by a gilt statue of St. 
Quirin. This church and convent were erected 
in 825 by Count Eberhard of Cleves (then lord of 
Neuss), in conjunction with his wife Bertha, of 
the race of Charlemagne, and his two sons, 
Luthard and Berenger. Besides this convent, 
the town contained several others, as well as a 
gymnasium, which the French transformed into 
a college. 

Since the 4th century, Neuss has experienced 
various changes. It was first taken by the At- 
tuarians under the Emperors Julian and Valen- 
tinian, and twice afterwards by the Normans, 
who burnt part of it. The Emperor Philip took 
2x3 



414 



IX. FROM COLOGNE 



it by assault in 1205, and presented it to the 
Bishop of Cologne, who had been deposed by 
Otto, his rival for the Imperial Crown. Tn 1254 
Neuss joined the Hanseatic Confederation. 
Charles of Burgundy, surnamed the Bold, laid 
siege to it in the 15th century, and the town 
becoming free in the 16th century, from the 
government of Archbishop Gebhard, it was re- 
taken by Count Nuenaar, who gave it up to the 
pillage of the Dutch troops under his command. 
Alexander of Farnese reduced it to ashes in 
1586, and in 1642 it fell into the hands of the 
French and Hessians, who increased the fortifi- 
cations. Similar chances of war have taken 
place in later years, for it was at Neuss in 1813, 
that the Allies effected their first passage over 
the Rhine. 

The change which took place in the course of 
the river has done much injury to the commerce 
of Neuss ; the river Erft, however, furnishes some 
communication between the Rhine and the town, 
and the inhabitants send on it, to the country 
of Berg, large quantities of wood, coals, mill- 
stones, and slates. They likewise trade in corn 
with Dusseldorf and Holland. The town pos- 
sesses some breweries, brandy distilleries and 
manufactories of vinegar, soap, cloth, flannel, 
cotton cloths, ribands, and lace. 

Very near the shore, not far from Neuss, is a 
rock of basaltes, about seven feet above the 
earth, which is worthy of observation. It is sup- 



TO HOLLAND. 



415 



posed to denote the site of the hamlet of Auf 
clem Stein, when the Rhine passed by Neuss. 

Near the mouth of the Erft, but some distance 
from the river, is the village of Heerdt, remark- 
able for the great dyke, which extends thence to 
the Rhine, and forms a strong barrier against the 
masses of ice. Notwithstanding the strength of 
this dyke, it was broken in 1784 and 1795 by 
the great masses impelled along the Rhine : but 
this circumstance saved the town of Dusseldorf, 
the ruin of which was inevitable, had not the 
waters and ice found a free passage on the side 
of Neuss. 

The traveller now perceives on the right, half 
a league from Neuss, the village of Billich, which 
is some distance from the river, and the chapel 
of the Virgin situated on the side of it. The 
latter was built by the Electress Maria Anna 
Louisa, of the house of Medicis. 

At a short distance from the small village of 
Hamm, the Rhine turns to the right, and the 
town of Dusseldorf, with its ruined castle, be- 
comes visible. . 

DUSSELDORF, 

The capital of the grand duchy of Berg, and 
the seat of a superior court of justice, contains 
from 1200 to 1300 houses, and nearly 14,000 
inhabitants. It extends along: the Rhine in a 
charming plain, and is watered on the south by 



416 IX. FROM COLOGNE 

the Dussel, whence it derives its name. Below 
the castle this rivulet falls into the Rhine. Dus- 
seldorf was a strong place till the peace of Lu- f 
neville, in 1801. The castle and some of the 
principal buildings were reduced to ashes by the p 
last bombardment of the French. 

This town is one of the most beautiful on the - 
Ehine ; the streets are most of them regular, ) 
and the houses entirely built of brick. 

On the market square is the monument of the - 
Elector John William, an admirer of the fine 
arts, to whom Dusseldorf is indebted for its 
prosperity. The statue, which is of bronze, is 
larger than life. The elector is on horseback, 
clothed in a cuirass, and holding a general's 
baton in his hand. The pedestal is a kind of 
grey marble, from a quarry in the environs. The 
statue was executed by Chevalier Crepello. 

Dusseldorf is divided into three different towns, 1 
called the Old Town, the New Town, and the 
Carlsstadt (Charles Town). The New Town is 
situated before the gate of Bergerthor, extending 
along the banks of the Rhine. It was built by f 
the Elector John William. The Carlsstadt joins 
the old town on the south side. It owes its origin f 
to the Elector Charles Theodore, from whom it [ 
takes its name. It has been considerably en- t 
larged lately, and is composed of several squares 
built around a large one. 

The most remarkable buildings are, — 1. The 
Cavalry Barracks, built from designs by Cramer. ] 
— 2. The Collegiate, or principal parish church, 



TO HOLLAND. 



417 



in which are the tombs of the ancient Dukes 
of Juliers and Berg ; and amongst them is the 
marble mausoleum of Duke John. — 3. The 
Church of the Jesuits, which is very much orna- 
mented, contains the remains of all the Princes 
of Neuburg, down to the Elector John William. 

| — 4. The Church of the Knights of the Cross, 

Snow a military storehouse. 

' The castle of Dusseldorf was burnt during the 
| bombardment, and only the ruins of it are now 
visible. In the middle of the court of this castle 
i is a second statue of the Elector John William, 
| in white marble, which was likewise executed by 
I Crepello. 

The great building, nor far from the castle, 
I formerly contained a superb gallery of pictures, 
in which were a great number of paintings by 
Ruoens, and other celebrated artists of the 
Dutch and Flemish school. These curiosities 
were all conveyed to Munich, with the excep- 
tion of a very large picture, painted on wood, 
representing the ascension of the Virgin. There 
still exists a valuable collection of drawings and 
engravings, and figures cast from excellent mo- 
dels, which belongs to the Academy of Arts. 
A new collection of pictures has also been form- 
ed, and occupies the old gallery. The public 
library of the province is below the picture gal- 
lery. It was founded in 1770, by M. Goldstein, 
the governor, and contains upwards of 30,000 
volumes. 

The observatory in the ancient college of 



1 



418 IX. FROM COLOGNE 

Jesuits, with its collection of philosophical in- 
struments, is well worthy of observation. 

Dusseldorf has several establishments for spin- 
ning silk and cotton, some manufactories of 
mirrors, pens, vinegar, soap, and a few sugar re- 
fineries of considerable importance. Jn the hos- 
pital of the poor, stockings, carpets, and other 
woollen articles, are manufactured. 

Dusseldorf carries on a considerable trade on 
the Rhine, and its port is one of the most fre- 
quented on this river. The merchandise brought 
from the manufactories of the country of Berg 
to Dusseldorf, and thence to the Rhine, consist 
principally of the following goods. From the 
manufactories of Eiberfeld, Barmen, and the dis- 
trict called Gemark, coarse cotton cloths, plain 
and coloured cottons, ribands, ferrets, &c. From 
Langenberg, Remscheid, Kronenberg, and Soh- 
lingen, various iron and steel articles. A great 
quantity of lime is brought from the environs of 
Rati n gen. 

The greater part of the corn exported from 
Neuss comes to Dusseldorf, whence it is sent to 
other places. A considerable quantity of wine 
arrives by water from Cologne and Muhlheim, 
and from that town and from Zundorf by land. 

The navigation of the Rhine from Dusseldorf 
to Holland, and to the country of Cleves, is ma- 
naged exclusively by nine boatmen, five of whom 
convey merchandise to Amsterdam, and the 
other four attend to the transport of merchan- 



TO HOLLAND. 



419 



dise going to Dort and returning to Dusseklorf. 
On their return these boatmen bring a great 
many goods from Holland, which they disem- 
bark at Uerdingen. 

Inns at Dusseldorf. Breitenbach's ; the town 
of Deux-Ponts ; the Three Crowns. 

The most interesting places in the environs 
of Dusseldorf are, — 1. The Court Garden, 
first established by the Count of Goldstein. It 
was considerably injured during the war, but 
has been restored and enlarged. — 2. The Alley 
or Frederickstrasse. — 3. The Canal beyond the 
new Eenrath Bridge. — 4. The walk from the 
Bergerthor. — 5. The CofFee-house of Widow 
Hilgers in the Court Garden.— -6. The Janson 
Garden at the Fiingersteinweg, with a ball-room. 
— 7. The Grafenberg, whence Cologne and the 
Seven Mountains are visible. — 8. The chateau 
Roland, near Derendorf. — 9. The Coffee House 
and Gardens cf Hilgers at Bilk. — 10. Benrath 
a little further. — 11. The group of trees on the 
site of the old fort of St. Thomas. — 12. Pempel- 
fort, where there was once a fort, and a sup- 
pressed convent of Trappists. 

The Steam Boat passes Dusseldorf several 
times a week in its voyages between Cologne 
and Rotterdam. 

Those who are desirous of observing the pro- 
gress of industry, should not fail to make an 
excursion from Dusseldorf to the manufactories 
of the grand duchy of Berg. This country, 



420 



IX. FROM COLOGNE 



which is one of the first in Germany in point 
of industry, owes this distinguished rank to its 
mines of iron, copper, lead, and coal; to the 
facility with which these establishments com- 
municate by means of small rivers flowing into 
the Rhine ; to the numerous streams whose 
waters give motion to mills ; and lastly, to the 
industry of its inhabitants, whose opulence has 
been expended on the iron and steel manufac- 
tories. A great part of the iron prepared in 
these establishments is brought from the duchy 
of Nassau, as the mines in the vicinity do not 
furnish a sufficient quantity. 

The most remarkable places where there are 
manufactories are the following: — 

Elberfeld, formerly the residence of a noble 
family of that name, is situated between some 
mountains of considerable height, in a valley 
watered by the JVipper, the largest river in the 
country. Those parts of the town which are 
separated by the Wipper communicate by means 
of bridges. It is not built very regularly, but 
many of the houses are large and handsome. 

The population of Elberfeld amounts to 23,000 
souls. The manufactures of the place consist 
of stuffs, silk handkerchiefs, taffetas, nankeens, 
bedticks, neck and pocket-handkerchiefs, shawls, 
druggets, laces, ribands, garters, ferrets, coarse 
cotton cloths, stuffs made of a mixture of cotton 
and thread, called Doppelstein, and thread of 
every description. Before the French Revolu- 
tion, Elberfeld and Barmen possessed more than 



TO HOLLAND. 



421 



100 establishments for bleaching linen, which 
occupied 700 workmen. The linen and riband 
manufactories employ from 2000 to 2500 work- 
men. The machines where the laces are made 
are put in motion by water ; each winder pro- 
duces 1000 yards of laces in an hour. The ma- 
j nufactories of coarse cotton cloths, and stuff 
I called Doppelstein, employ three or 4000 looms, 
!j on which 50,000 pieces are made annually. Two 
j hundred and eighty looms are occupied in the 
manufacture of bedticks, and 39,000 are made 
i every year. 

The other interesting objects at Elberfeld are, 
— The Collection of Pictures of M. Gerard Sie- 
bel ; the houses where societies of respectable in- 
| habitants of the town assemble, and to which 
strangers may be admitted by a member ; the 
Museum, and the new promenade called Auf cler 
Haardt, which was made by Dr. Diemel. Con- 
certs, balls, and the theatre, form the winter di- 
versions of the inhabitants of Elberfeld. 

Inns. The Court of Deux-Ponts ; the Palatine 
Court; and the Weidenhof. 

A short distance beyond Elberfeld is Barmen, 
which occupies a space of two leagues in the 
valley of the Wipper. In every part of tlr's 
place may be seen establishments for bleaching. 
It carries on a large trade in thread, laces, cot- 
tons, ticking, silks, ribands, and linen. These 
goods were formerly sent to France, Holland, 
Switzerland, Italy, and the countries of the North. 
The garden of M. Wuppermann, situated in the 
2 o 



422 



IX. FROM COLOGNE 



district called Wupperfeld, is worthy of observa- 
tion. 

Schwehn, one league below Barmen and two 
from Elberfeld, is a bathing-place. Inn, the Sack. 
At Geiehberg, a league beyond it, is a curious 
subterranean grotto. 

Ronsdorf, a league from Elberfeld, is inhabited 
by a singular religious sect, whose tenets have 
been described in " Theobald, or the Enthusiasts 
of Jung-Stilling." 

The next place is Bemscheid, a large village, 
which is situated behind a mountain, and con- 
tains six or seven thousand inhabitants. This 
place is remarkable for its numerous foundries 
for iron and steel, and other establishments where 
these metals are prepared. The greater part of 
these foundries supply Holland with every thing 
necessary in the construction of ships. In a space 
only three leagues in circumference may be seen 
forty-five of these establishments, where, besides 
articles used in the construction of vessels, are 
manufactured eight hundred kinds of cutting in- 
struments, locks, scythes, skates, &c. These 
goods were formerly sent to Holland, France, 
Spain, and the West Indies, and their manufac- 
ture annually consumed, before the revolutionary 
war, nine or ten million pounds of iron. 

Soh/ingen is likewise situated on a mountain. 
This town contains 9000 inhabitants, and has 
been several years famous for its manufactories of 
arms, knives, and other steel articles. Before 
the Revolution, 206,000 pounds of iron were an- 



TO HOLLAND. 



423 



1 Dually consumed for sword blades, and 850,000 
for knife blades. The greater part of them are 
sold in Europe and America. It has also manu- 
factories of silk, riband, and coarse cotton cloths. 
The best inn is that kept by M. Franzen. 

Lennep is situated in a delightful valley, sur- 
i rounded by heights of a gentle slope. It con- 
; tains 3000 inhabitants, and a great number of 
! handsome houses. Lennep has the principal ma- 
: nufactories in the country for fine cloths and 
coarse cottons, which employ 300 looms. It has 
also several hundred hatters, and some establish- 
: ments for dyeing blue, which annually consume 
from fifty to sixty quintals of indigo. 

Wipperfurt possesses several tanyards and 
| manufactories of cloths, coarse cottons, and hats. 
The latter articles are sent to Holland, England, 
and France ; a great number of them being used 
for sailors. It has also a great many iron foun- 
dries. The town derives its name from the 
: Wipper, which passes by it, and contains 6000 
inhabitants, including the whole parish. 

Rade vorm Wald. This town was consumed 
by fire in 1802, and out of three hundred houses 
of which it was composed, not one escaped the 
conflagration. Before this event, it contained 
fourteen looms where fine cloths were made, fifty- 
• six for coarse cotton cloths, fifty-one for worsted 
' stockings, thirty machines for making laces, and 
1 various manufactories of iron, where scale-beams, 
compasses, pendulums, and sharp-edged instru- 
■ ments were made. 



424 



IX. FROM COLOGNE 



Burg, or Berg, is situated on the declivity of a 
steep mountain, and it overlooks a fertile and 
delightful valley. At this place the Counts of 
Berg formerly resided, and the ruins of their old 
castle are still visible. The manufactories of f 
blankets at Burg, produce every year from 50 to 
60,000 pieces. The muskets made here have 
been celebrated for many ages, but the manufac- 
tory which supplies them is now of little im- 
portance, t 

Cr om ford, near Ratingen, two leagues and a 
half from Dusseldorf, was the first cotton fac- I 
tory on the English plan established on the Con- 
tinent. 

The manufactories of the country of Berg ge- 
nerally employ more than 60,000 men, and they 
annually procure this country a revenue of five 
or six millions of thalers. The whole province 
may be considered one large manufactory, which \ 
formerly had connexions with every part of the 
world. A great stagnation has certainly taken 
place in late years, but it is hoped that business 
will resume its ancient activity, under the present 
Prussian government. 

In the excursion from Dusseldorf to Elberfeld, 
the traveller should visit the Grotto of Neander, 
half way between the towns, and half a league 
from Mettmann. It derived its name from the 
poet Neander, who took refuge here for six 
months on account of his religious opinions. 

The remainder of the journey from Dusseldorf 
to Holland, is not remarkable for the beauties of 



TO HOLLAND. 



425 



nature. On every side are seen heaths of a very 
dreary aspect. The Rhine, after passing several 
small villages, reaches the town of Kaiserworth. 
This place was formerly very strong, and enjoyed 
the privileges of an imperial town, till the Em- 
peror Charles IV. gave it as a pledge to the 
Duke of Cleves, and afterwards to the Elector 
of Treves, from whom it passed, in 1768, to the 
Electors of the Palatinate, after the possession 
I of it had been disputed for four centuries. 

In the 7th century, St. Schwibert founded a 
I convent on the island of Werda. A monument 
! commemorating the thousandth anniversary of 
his death, was erected by the Protestants in 
1817, on the Diemel hill. 

Below Kaiserworth is the village of Geldub, or 
Gelb, a place of great historical interest. Taci- 
tus and Florus mention it under the name of 
Geiduba, and Drusus established a bridge there. 
It was the last town of the Ubians, on the banks 
of the Rhine. The town of Ziilpich (Tolbiacum), 
which is situated some distance in the interior of 
the country, likewise belonged to them, and was 
the place where, in 496, Clovis, King of the 
Franks, obtained a signal victory over the Ger- 
mans. 

Not far from Gelb, on the left bank of the 
Rhine, is Uerdingen (JJrdingen, Ordingtri) in the 
midst of a fertile plain, It is supposed that this 
small town derives its name from the Roman 
General Hordronius F lace us, who occupied the 
Upper Rhine in the insurrection under Claudius 
% o S 



426 IX. FROM COLOGNE 

Civilis. The traces of his camp are still visible. I] 

In 1330, Henry of Virneburg, Archbishop of p 

Cologne, erected a wall round the town. Uer- f 

dingen contains 250 houses, and 1600 inhabit- f 

ants, most of whom subsist by navigation, com- y 

merce, and the produce of the cattle which they f 

bring up. In their manners and customs they t 

resemble the Dutch, with whom they have a- f 

constant intercourse. In 1692, the Rhine hav- f 

ing quitted its ancient course near Rheinberg, 1 

and taken a new direction, the custom-house, j* 

(formerly situated at Rheinberg,) was removed P 
to Uerdingen. 

Immediately below Uerdingen, between Bod- f 

berg on the left bank, and Ehingen on the right ^ 

bank, is an island called Bodherger Drap. The 5 

river at this place is often so difficult to ascend, f 
that persons are obliged, when the water is low, 

to pass along the arm called Rasgat, which is ft 
situated between the island and the left bank, 

and is very rapid. n 

After having passed Bodberg, the traveller \ 
first sees on the left bank the villages of Frim- 
mersheim and Blorsheim, opposite which the Anger 
falls into the Rhine near Angerort. Next ap- 
pear the villages of Rheinheim, Werthausen, Em- \ 
merich, Essenberg, and Homberg, all situated on \ 
the left bank ; on the right are the villages of 
JVanheim and Vollmar, and beyond them the ' 
small town of Ruhrort, at which the Ruhr flows - 
into the Rhine. The Ruhr is a small river which p 
rises in the mountains of the Saner land, in West- r 



TO HOLLAND. 



427 



phalia, and is rendered navigable for a distance 
of twelve or fourteen leagues from its mouth, by 
means of sixteen locks. These locks were con- 
structed by the Abbot of Werden and some pri- 
vate gentlemen, between 1770 and 1780, pre- 
I vious to which time the Ruhr was not navigable. 
! It runs from Witten as far as Muhlheim, three 
| leagues from Ruhrort, for the space of ten leagues 
I along the bottom of a very narrow valley. On 
■ the side of the chain of mountains that forms 
this valley, are several other mountains, which, 
! without communicating with the first, extend a 
j considerable distance into the interior of the 
country. These mountains contain the pit-coal 
' which is so much used in the Lower Rhine and 
| Holland, and constitutes one of the principal 
articles in the commerce of the Rhine. 

At Ruhrort are the docks, in which the greater 
part of the boats for Holland and the Rhine are 
constructed. This small town is very much ex- 
posed by its situation, and would long ago have 
perished by ice or inundations, if it had not been 
defended by means of very strong dykes. 

Werden has cloth factories, and a house of 
correction. 

Between the Anger and the Ruhr, but half a 
league from the Rhine, is Duisburg, on the banks 
of the Ruhr, which crosses a marshy country. It 
is probable that the Rhine formerly touched the 
walls of this town. Many have supposed it to be 
the ancient Teutoburgum 9 where the battle between 
Hermann and Varus took place. In the 17 th 



428 IX. FROM COLOGNE 

century Duisburg was an imperial town. A synod 
was held at this place during the reign of 
Henry I., and the states of Germany assembled 
there under Otto I. The town contains 6S0 
houses, and about 3500 inhabitants, who princi- I 
pally subsist on the produce of their manufac- 
tures, navigation, and commerce. Their chief ma- 
nufactures consist of cloths, and other woollen 
articles, velvets, hats, thread, leather, glue, and 
starch. The university, which was never of much 
importance, has been entirely closed for several 
years. 

The Rhine, after quitting Ruhrort, and the 
village of Homberg, situated opposite, passes by 
many other villages situated on the banks, and 
proceeds to the small town of Orsoi/ y which is of 
but little importance, and contains only 1000 
inhabitants. 

A more interesting place is the town of Meurs, I 
a league from the Rhine. It is surrounded by 
ditches, and is situated in the centre of a large 
valley, bordered by fertile hills. It contains about 
2600 inhabitants. Meurs is a remarkable place 
in ancient history, and a great number cf Roman 
monuments have been discovered near it. On a 
rising ground in the environs of the village of f 
Asberg, half a league from Meurs, formerly stood 
the famous Asciburgum of Tacitus. The lions 
placed in front of the town-house of Meurs, were 
found at this place, as well as several stones 
bearing the names of Roman centurions, which [ 
may be seen in the avenues of the house Ter 



TO HOLLAND. 



429 



I Voort. Many Roman tombs, urns, arms, medals, 
i and lamps, are frequently found there still. In 

1551, Count Herrmann, of Nuenaar, printed at 
Cologne a detailed account of the antiquities 
| found at Asberg. Meurs was formerly governed 
,: by its own counts. The castle and fortifications 
i were destroyed in 1764. Meurs might be con- 
| verted into a very strong place, and its commerce 
| would become extensive, if the high road were 

I I made to pass through it. 

I On quitting Orsoy, the traveller sees on the 
I right bank of the Rhine the villages of IValsurn 
1 and Stap, and on the left bank the village of 
j Eversal; and half a league from it, in the interior 
of the country, the small town of Rheinberg 
I (Rhenoberka, called also Berk, or Berg). Rhein- 
! berg was the last town on the frontiers of the 
Lower Electorate of Cologne, and is situated on 
I the high road from Cologne to Nimeguen and 
Holland. A small arm of the Rhine now forms 
the communication between this town and the 
river, which formerly passed under its walls. 
Rheinberg was, in ancient times, a strong place, 
and has sustained more than one obstinate 
siege. Clara Isabella Eugenia, daughter of 
Philip II., first commenced near this town the 
canal which was intended to go from Guelders 
to Venloo, to unite the Rhine and Meuse, before 
the entrance of those rivers into Holland, but 
the accomplishment of this project the Dutch 
frustrated by force of arms. This town con- 
tains about 1 700 inhabitants, who are principally 



1 ^30 IX. FROM COLOGNE 

employed in cultivating lands, and trading in 
corn. In the vicinity is the ancient abbey of 
Camp, remarkable for its great richness, and the 
beauty of its situation. 

The Rhine, on leaving Rheinberg, passes by 
the villages of Gbtterswillerhain, Lohncn, and 
Spellen, on the right bank ; and Ossenbtrg, 
Barthy fVallach, EkericJi, and Dornich, on the 
left bank: near the latter, it takes for a conside- 
rable distance an eastern direction, and after- 
wards changes, and passes towards the west, so 
that it forms a small bend before it reaches the 
town of Wesel. 

Wesel, which is, perhaps, the ancient Aliso, is 
situated on the right bank of the Rhine, opposite 
an artificial island, formed in 178/5, by making a 
cut through the bend above-mentioned. This 
island has taken the name of Biiderich, from the 
market town of Biiderich, which formerly stood 
near it, and the cut is called the canal of Biide- 
rich. This probably may be the site of the Aliso 
of the ancients, which was situated lower than 
Asciburgum. Wesel was formerly one of the im- 
perial and Hanseatic towns. It is indebted for 
its flourishing condition to the refugees from Hol- 
land, Brabant, and France, who were afterwards 
driven from it. Its present importance arises 
from its fortifications, which render it an excellent 
situation in time of war. It has, however, seve- 
ral manufactories of linen and woollen stuffs. 
The port is convenient, and a boat sets out daily 
for Amsterdam. Wesel contains about 1500 



TO HOLLAND. 431 

! 

houses and 8000 inhabitants. It has a theatre, 
two private societies, and several other places of 
amusement, amongst which are the Issel and the 
Bromherhof. 

Inns. The King of Prussia, the Roman Em- 

I peror s and the Duke of Brunswick. 

Near Wesel the Lippe falls into the Rhine. 

i This small river, which comes from Westphalia, 
and is navigable for a considerable distance from 

1 its mouth, brings to the Rhine a large quantity of 
wood and salt, and the boats which ascend it aie 

| generally laden with wines. 

Below Wesel, on the left bank of the Rhine, 
and at some distance from that river, is the neat 
little town of Xanten, or Santen, which contains 

! 250 houses, and 3000 inhabitants. The latter 
are principally employed in the cultivation of 
land, but they likewise manufacture ribands, 
pins, and neck and pocket-handkerchiefs. In 
the environs are a great number of gardens. 

The Rhine must have formerly passed close 
under the walls of Xanten, as evident traces of 
its ancient bed are still visible. The change in 
the course of this river has so disfigured this 
country, that it no longer accords with the de- 
scription given of it by Tacitus. Xanten is sup- 
posed to be the Ulpian camp ( U/pia castra ) ; in 
the vicinity are the famous Vetera castra, in which 
two legions encamped. The name of Vetera is 
but imperfectly preserved in the name of a village 
called Wirten, which is situated a quarter of a 
league from the town. Near this village may 



432 



IX. FROM COLOGNE 



still be seen the foundation of an amphitheatre. 
Many think that this place is the Colonia Trajana, 
and they suppose that the word T raj ana has 
been changed into Trojgna, whence this place 
first took the name of Sancta Troja, or Secunda 
Troja, which has lately been corrupted from 
Sancta to Xanten. The name of Sancta Troja 
may be seen on many medals of the 11th and 
15th centuries. In the territory called Aite Burg 
(Old Castle), which is situated north of Xanten, 
the Colonia Trajana is said formerly to have stood. 
A quarter of a league south of the town is the 
mountain of Vorstenberg, or Starisberg, on which 
Quintiiius Varus had established his pretorship. 
The remains of an aqueduct have been discovered 
there, and it was the place where Varus passed 
the Rhine with the legions. 

At Xanten and its environs many monuments 
have been found which dated from the time of 
the Romans, such as walls, sepulchral stones, 
urns, arms, medals, lamps. &c. The town for- 
merly belonged to the great chapter of Cologne, 
but it passed, in 1449, to the Duchy of Cleves. 
The collegiate church is a superb specimen of 
ancient German architecture. It was commenced 
in 1124. The inscriptions on the principal gate 
prove that it was not finished in 1200. It con- 
tains some pictures by John of Calcar, and other 
masters. 

On the left bank of the Rhine, beyond Xanten, 
appear Marienbawm, Calcar, and Cleves, which 
are situated some distance from the banks of the 



TO HOLLAND. 433 

river. Cleves, the capital of the ancient duchy 
of the same name, is situated behind a small hill, 
in the middle of a semicircular plain covered with 
meadows, which extends from Xanten as far as 
I Nimeguen. This plain is bordered by the forest 
I of Richswald, the Sacrum nemus of Tacitus, where 
! Claudius Civilis engaged the Bataves to revolt 
I against the Romans. The foundation of the old 
j castle of Schwanenburg, erected at this place, is 
1 said to have been laid by Julius Csesar. Adol- 
phus, first Duke of Cleves, built the cupola to 
1 the tower of this castle in 1439. 
j A canal forms the communication between 
the city and the Rhine, which is a quarter of a 
league distant. It contains about 1000 houses, 
and 5000 inhabitants. The environs are delight- 
ful, and abound with shaded walks, gardens, 
and small groves. The building called Prin- 
zenhof, (or the Stathouderat,) was arranged with 
great taste by John Maurice, of Nassau-Siegen, 
and commands a fine prospect. On the other 
side of the canal is the Konigsgarten, (royal 
garden) which is likewise indebted for its origin 
to this prince. The garden called Thiergarten, 
(menagerie) contains a spring of mineral wa- 
ter. The tomb of Prince Maurice is situated 
at Berg unci Thal^ (a place he himself chose,) 
half a league from Cleves, near the house of 
Freudenberg. His body lies in an iron sarco- 
phagus, surrounded by Roman inscriptions, 
urns? lamps, and other Roman antiquities, which 
have been dug up at Cleves. 

2 P 



434 



IX. FROM COLOGNE 



The next place is the small town of Rees, on 
the right bank of the Rhine. It is defended 
against the river by a work called Blesswerk, 
which is not, however, sufficiently strong to 
protect it from every danger. On quitting Rees, i 
the Rhine passes by several places, the principal 
of which are, the village of Griet, and the island 
of Emmerich, Near the former, the Leye falls 
into the Rhine. The traveller then reaches 
Emmerich : an old town of considerable import- 
ance, where there is a safe and convenient port 3 
capable of containing more than forty large 
boats, and sixty of moderate size. 

On the right, between Emmerich and Lobith, 
which is two leagues lower, are situated the 
villages of Oberspyk and Unterspyk, and on the: 
left Griethausen, Brienen, and the remains of the 
fort called Schneckenschanze. Opposite this fort, 
and immediately above Lobith, the arm called r 
Old Rhine separates from the principal river, 
and proceeds towards the right, making an im- 
mense bend; whilst the other arm, which is 
much larger, continues its original direction, and 
takes the name of the Waal. 

The separation of the waters at this place is 
well worthy of observation : and the hydraulic 
works to regulate their course are of great im- 
portance, since the very existence of Holland 
depends on them. If these works had not been 
finished, the whole country would have been 
swallowed up by the waves in the inundation of 
1784. 

The smalltown of Hmssen y where there was 



TO HOLLAND. 435 

! 

formerly a Prussian custom-house, is the first 
i remarkable place on that arm of the river, which 
continues to bear the name of the Old Rhine, 
I and is called by the Dutch, Lower Rhine. Op- 
posite this small town, a part of the Lower 
■ Rhine flows into the canal, which Drusus made 
' with the intention of uniting this river to the 
\ Yssel. This canal, which still bears the name 
of Drusus Vaart, although oftener called New 
» Yssel, extends as far as Doesburg, where it 

receives the Old Yssel. 
\ On the right bank, one league from the 
Schneckenschanze, is Arnheim. This town has 
a good port, and carries on an extensive trade, 
particularly in goods, which are sent to a consi- 
i derable distance : for this purpose, it has a 
society of boatmen who have an exclusive right 
of conveying, in eight boats, the merchandise 
destined for Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and the 
Hague ; and in two others, that which is going 
to Duisburg, on the Ruhr. Arnheim was for- 
merly called Villa Arnoldi, and is mentioned in 
writings as far back as the 10th century. 

On the right of the Rhine, but a quarter of a 
league from that river, and three leagues below 
Arnheim, is the town of IVageningen, where there 
is a similar society of boatmen, who convey goods 
to Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Duisburg. 

Two leagues from Wageningen, on the right 
bank, is the town of R/ienen, where excellent 
tobacco is cultivated ■. Between Wageningen and 
Rhenen, and on the right bank also, is the small 
town of W r yk-tc- Durst ede, near which a part of 



436 IX. FROM COLOGNE TO HOLLAND. 



the waters of the Rhine proceeds on the right 
towards Utrecht, whilst the other and largest 
part continues its original direction. The first 
of these two arms is all that remains of that 
majestic river, here called the Crooked Rhine ; 
the second takes the name of Leek, Near 
Utrecht, the Crooked Rhine discharges part of 
its waters into the Vecht ; the remaining part 
washes the walls of the town, and thence passes 
in a north-west direction, under the name of \ 
Old Rhine, to Woerden and to Lei/den, where 
part flows into different canals, and the rest is 
lost in the sand. } 

The arm of the Rhine called the Leek, passes 
by Wyk, Kuilenburg, and Vyanen, where it dis- I 
charges some of its waters in a canal, on which 
the boats of the Rhine go to Utrecht and Am- 
sterdam, and terminates by falling into the Meuse, [ 
near the village of Crimpen, after receiving the E 
waters of the Vliest, and thus forming a junction 
with the Yssel. 

The arm of the Rhine which took the name 
of Waal passes by Nimeguen, joins the Meuse, | 
and finally reaches Dord. or Dordrecht, the 
place of rendezvous for the rafts which descend 
the Rhine. 



INDEX. 



i 



[ Aalfang, 282 
• Aalhausen, 200 
: | Aar, the, 38, 240, 322 
; 1 Aarteck, Castle of, 248 
j Aberwyl, 46 
i Achern, 64 
| Adam sthal, Farm of, 257 
, : Adolphseck, 246 
; Aix-la-Chapelle, 9, 21, 353 

Alb, the, 39, 104 

Albbrug, 39 
I Albersweiler, 114 

Alexander, Fort, 95 

,(Coblentz),218 

Aliso, the ancient, 430 
i Aiken, 275 

| Allerheiligen, Abbey of, 95 

I , Chapel of, 217 

I , Village of, 159 

j Alpirsbach, Convent of, 97 

j Alsbach, 154 

j Alsenz, Valley of, 196 

i Altarsberg, Mountain of, 154 

| Altdorf, 60 

! Alte Burg, 250, 432 

I Altenbamburg, 196 

| Altenberg, Abbey of, 406 

| Altenburg, Castle of, 318 ' 

j Altenheim, 61 

j Altkonig, the, 173, 264 

I Altleiningen, 122 

Altmunster, 152 

Altschweier, 88 

Altweiler, 88 



Alzau, Foundry of, 323 
Alzey, 128 

to Kirchheim Bolanden, 128 

Amfahr, 306 
Amsterdam, 22 

to Cologne, 22 

Andernach, 23, 307 
Anger, the, 426 
Angerort, 426 
Annweiler, Valley of, 115 
Antogast, 96 
Antoniusstein, 309 

, Convent of, 319 

Antwerp, 22 

Apollinarisberg, Mountain, 325 

Appenweyer, 27, 64 

Argendorf, 321 

Argenfels, Castle of, 321 

Arlesheim, 46 

Arnbeim, 22, 435 

Arnstein, Convent of, 24, 237 

Arzstein, 233 

Asberg, 428 

Asmannshausen, 199 

Aue, 87 

Auerbach, 25, 154 

Auersberg, Castle of, 154 

Auf-der-Boll, 117 

Auf dem-Stein, 412, 415 

Auggen, 49 

Augst, 41 

Baccharach, 23, 202 
Baden, 9, 27, 73 
Badenweiler, 49 
2 Q 



438 



IE DEX. 



Baiersbronn, 92 
Baldenelz, 276 
Balduiustein, Castle of, 239 
Bale, Basle, or Basel, 9, 26,27,41 
Bale, Grotto of, 49 

to Constance, 28 

to Schaf hausen, 2S 

Balg, 83 
Bank, the, 209 
Barbe, St. 56 
Barbelroth, 25 
Barmen, 421 
Barth, 430 
Bartholonise, 183 
Bassenheim, 229 
Battice, 370 
Baumberg, 410 
Bautzenheim, 26 
Beatusberg, 223 
Beilstein, 277, 279 

, Castle of, 279 

Beinheim, 26 
Belchen, 99 
BeU, 318 
Bendorf, 297 
Benken, 46 
Benrath, 410, 411 
Bensberg, 378, 406 
Bensheim, 25, 152 
Berg, 424 
Berg und Thai, 433 
Bergheim, 377 
Berg-Nassau, 235 
Bergstrasse, the, 146, 147 
Bergzabern, 115 
Berkhelden, 151 
Berlebach, 239 
Bernkastel, 284 
Bertoldshar, 99 
Bertrich, Baths of, 278 
Besigheim, 28 
Besselich, Convent of, 296 
Bessungen, 155 
Bettingen, 47 



Beuel, 3r6 

Beurener, Valley of, 88 
Beyertheim, 103 
Biber, 302 
Biberich, 179, 257 
Bickenbach, 25, 155 
Bickesheim, 101 
Biel, 46 
Bietigheim, 101 
Billich, 415 

Bingen, Town of, 23, 189 

, Hole of, 199 

to Coblentz, by Bacha- 

rach, St. Goar and Boppart, 

198 

to Kreuznach, 192 

Bingerloch, the, 199 
Binningen, 46 
Birkenau, 150 
Birs, the, 42, 46 
Birseck, the, 46 
Bischofsberg, 184 
Bischofsheim, 27, 70 
Bischofstein, 276 
Black Forest, 39, 72, 94 
Blattich, Rock of, 88 
Blauen, 49 
Bleidenstadt, 256 
Bley, 409 

Bleybach, the, 346 
Bleyberg, Mount, 345 
Blorsheim, 426 
Bodberg, 426 
Bodenheim, 136 
Bonn, 23, 335 

to Aix-la-Chapelle and 

Spa, 345 

to Cologne, 376 

Boosenburg, 188 
Boppart, 23, 213 
Borcette, 365 
Bornhofen, 212 
Bottmingen, 46 
Branbach, 214 



IN DEX. 



439 



Breda, 22 

Breisac. See Neu and Vieux 

Bremthal, 173, 259 

Bretten, 27 

Brettma, the, 57 

Breusch, the, 65 

Brey, 215 

Brienen, 434 

Brodenbach, 276 

Brohl, or Briil, 308, 315 

, or Broel, the, 314 

Brohlbach, the, 315 
Bromserburg, 188 
Brothers, the, 212 
Bruchsal, 27, 105 
Brack, Baths of, 46 
Bruderholz, 45 
Bruges, 19, 22 
Brumpt, 25 
Briihl, 342 1 
Brussels, 19, 20 

to Cologne, 21 

to Liege, 20 

Bubenhausen, Height of, 250 
Budenheim, 180, 181 
Buderich, 430 
Buhl, 27, 64, 89 
Biihlerthal, Valley of Buhl, 88 
Biiren, Valley of, 79, 88 
Burg, 424 
Burgbrohl, 316 
Burgel, 410 
Burgen, 276 
Burgsponheim, 197 
Burscheid, 365 

, Wood of, 364 

, Valley of, 367 

Buschmuhle, 352 
Butte, Cascade of, 79 
Butzbacb, 232 
Calais to Brussels, 20 

to Ostend, 19 

Calcar, 432 
Calinuc, the, 116 



Camillenberg, 230 

Candern, 49 

Carden, 276 

Carlsruhe, 26, 27, 102 

Cassel, 176, 411 

Caub, 23, 205 

Charlotte nburg, 237 

Christophsthal, Valley of, 93 

Chur, 275 

Clemensruhe, 340 

Cleves, 22, 432 

Cobern, 275 

Coblence, 38 

Coblentz, 23, 218 

to the Baths of the 

mountains of Tarmus, 231 
to Bonn, by Neuwied, 

Andernach, and Remagen, 296 

to Frankfort, 24 

to Treves, 24, 273 

Cochem, 277 
Coches d'Eau, 7 
Coins, 8 

Cologne, 21,22, 23, 379 

to Dusseldorf, 23 

Frankfort, 23 

Mayence, 23 

Conderthal, Valley of, 274 
Confederation, Hanseatic, 139 
Coo, Cascade of, 374 
Constance, 28 
Cranichstein, 159 
Crimpen, 436 
Crbff or Crbv, 233 
Cromford, 424 
Cronenburg, Castle of, 196 
Cruft, 309 
Cus, 284 
Dannenfels, 123 
Darmstadt, 25, 155 
Dassa, 155 
Dattenberg, 321 
Deiblich, 275 
Deidesheim, 118 



I "N DEX. 



440 

Duren, 349 
Deutz, 405 
Devil's Pulpit, 81 
Diemerstein, Castle of, 120 
Dienheim, 135 
Diet/, 24, 240 
Diligences, 18 
Dinkholder, Spring of, 214 
Dinglingen, 61 
Dippleshof, 158 
Disibodenberg, 197 
Doesburg, 435 
Dollendorf, 333 
Donauescbingen, 99 
Dord or Dortrecht, 22, 23, 436 
Dormagen, 410 
Dornich, 430 
Dossenheim, 148 

Drachenfels, (Dragon's rock), 
120, 329 

Draitscherquelle, Fountain of, 

334 
Dreisen, 123 
Dreiserhof, 182 
Dreyeckshausen, 200 
Dreysam, the, 54 
Drusenheim, 26 
Drusus Vaart, 435 
Duisburg,427 
Dunkirk, 19 
Duren, 349 
Durkheim, 118 

to Frankenstein and 

Diemerstein, 120 

to Grunstadt, 121 

Durlach, 104 
Durmersbeim, 101 
Dusemont, 285 
Dusseldorf, 22, 23, 415 
Eberbach, 182 
Ebernacb, 2/9 
Ebernburg, 195 
Eberhardsklause, 286 
Eberstadt, 155 



Eberstein, in the Valley of 

Murg, 79 
Ebersteinburg, 83 
Ebnet, 56 
Echternach, 283 
Edingen, 146 
Eggardsberg, Mount, 53 
Egghof, 38 
Eglisau, 38 
Ehingen, 426 
Ehrenbreitstein, Thai, 224 

, Castle of, 218 

Ehrenberg, 276 

Ehrenfels, Castle of, 189 

Ehrenthal, Valley of, 211 

Eichkopf, 260 

Eifel Mountains, 294, 296 

Eimeldingen, 48 

Elberfeld, 420 

Ellfeld, 181 

Elpensee, Lake, 

Elverich, 430 

Elz, Town of, 276 

, the, 57 

, the, 276 

Emmel, 286 
Emmendingen, 27, 57 
Emmerich, 426 

, Island of, 434 

Ems, 24, 233 
Endernicb, 341 
Engers. See Kuno Engers. 
Enkirchcn, 280 
Eppenstein, 259 
Eppstein, 24, 173 
Erang, or Ering, 287 
Erbach, 182 

, Abbey of, 1S2 

Erbenheim, 180 
Erden, 283 
Erdmannsloch, 49 
Erft, the, 412 
Erlich, 306 
Erpel, 324 



j 


INDEX. 


Erpeler Ley, Mountain of, 


321, 


• 

Fraiienkirch, 319 


324 




Frauenstein, 181 


Eschbach, Castle of, 115 




Frederickstein, 306 


Eschenz, 35 




Freischutz, 109 


Eschweiler, 350 




Fremersberg, 80 


Essenberg, 426 




Freudenstadt, 93 


Ettenheim, 59 




Freygericht, 268 


Ettenheimmiinster, 59 




Friburg, 27, 54 


Ettlingen, 101 




to Schafhausen, 27 


Eubingen, 186 




rrieaoerg, 24, zoo 


Eversal, 429 




Friedlingen, 48 


Fachbach, 235 




Friedrichsberg, 298 


Fachingen, 24, 239 




Friesdorf, 334 


Falkenburg, Castle of, 199 




Friesen, the, 80 


Falkenlust, 343 




Friesenheim, 26, 27, 61 


Falkenstein, Castle of, 97, 


124, 


Frimmersheim, 426 


262 




Frohndbrunnen, the, 99 


, Valley of, 124 




Fuchshole, Wood of, 247 


, in the Taunus, 173 


Furfeld, 28 


Falkenwald, Forest of, 411 




Furstenberg, Castle of, 202 


Favorite, the, 84 




Fljrsteneck, 200 


Feldberg, Mount, 94,99, 153, 


173, 


Furstenthal, Convent of, 203 


264 




Fust, Castle of, 197 


Felsel, 214 




Gahberg, Mountain of, 259 


Fessenheim, 26 




Gallenbach, 90 


Feyermahl, Mill of, 347 




Gasbach, the, 324 


Fischbach, 173, 259 




Gausbach, 87 


Flittard, 408 




Geilnau, 24, 238 


Fluhen, Baths of, 47 




Geisberg, Mountain of, 257 


Fokenhausen, Valley of, 173, 


259 


Geissenheim, 185 


Forbach, 87 




Geldub, or Gelb, 425 


Fornich, 314 




Gelnhausen, 24, 268 


Forst, 118 




Gengenbach, 63 


France, Money of, 10 




Georgenborn, 251 


Franchimont, Castle of, 374 




Germersheim, 26, 107, 113 


Francis, Fort, 219 




to Landau, 113 


Frankenstein, 120 




Gernsbach, 85 


, Castle of, 155 




Geroldsaue, 79 


Frankenthal, 25, 128, 129 




Geroldseck, Castle of, 60 


, Canal of, 130 




Gevelsberg, 422 


Frankfort on the Maine, 9, 23 


24, 


Gewild, 40 


25, 159 




Gewirr, Whirlpool of, 209 


to Heidelberg, 25 




Ghent, 19, 22 


Prauenalb, 95 




Gipfelberg, Moantain of, 283 






2 Q 3 



INDEX, 



Ginnheimerhbhe, 172 
Glanodernheirn, 197 
Glotter, 57 
Goar, St. 208, 209 
Goarshausen, St. 209, 210 
Godesberg, Mountain of, 333 

, Village of, 334 

Godorf, 378 
Goeliheim, 122 

to Mont Tonnerre, 

123 

Goldenfels, Castle of, 197 
Gondorf, 275 
Gorxheim, Valley of, 150 
Gothard, St. Mount, 35 
Gotterswillerhain, 430 
Gottes-Aue, Abbey of, 104 
Gottesthal, 183, 185 
Graben, 106 
Grafenberg, 419 
Grafemverder, 328, 329 
Grafinburg, Castle of, 282 
Grapenworth, Island of, 377 
Graurheindorf, 377 
Greifenstein, Fort of, 247 
Gressenich, 368 
Gressenig, 352 
Griesbach, 96 

, Rivulet of, 96 

Griet, 434 
Greithausen, 434 
Grinnnlingbausen, 411 
Gros-Renibs, 26 
Grossachsenheim, 148 
Grosser Trog, 158 
Grunstadt, 121 

to Goeliheim, 122 

Guls, 274 
Gundelfingen, 56 
Guntersblum, 135 
Guntherstal, 55 
Gunzenbacb, 78 
Gutenfels, 205 
Haardt, Castle on the, 117 



Haardt, Village of, IIS 

, Mountains of, 115, 116 

Haddersheim, 175 
Haerlem, 22 
Hague, 22 
Haguenau, 25 
Hallgarten, 183 
Hambach, 116 
Hamin, 412, 415 
Hammerstein, Castle of, 313 
Hanau, 24 

Hanau-Lichtenberg, 70 
Handscbuhsheim, 148 
Kanseatic Confederation, 139 
Harlicb, 229 

Hartenburg, Castle of, 120 
Haslach, 97 
Hattenheim, 183 
Hattstein, 266 
Hatzenpfort, 276 
Haudingen, 27 
Hauenstein, 39 
Hausacb, 97 
Hausen,239 
Heddersdorf, 303 
Heerdt, 415 
Heidelberg, 25, 26, 146 

— to Strasburg, 27 

to Stuttgard, 27. 28 

Heidenmaner, or Ringinauer, 119 
Heilbronn, 28 
Heilbrunn, Spring of, 309 
Heiligenberg, 147 
Heiligenkreuzberg, Mountain of, 
291 

Heimbachw^is, 301 
Heimburg, *0 
Heister, 327 

Heisterbach, Valley of, 332 
Heitersheim, 52 
Hembach, 151 

Hemmerich, Mountain of, 331 
Heppenbeft,206 
Heppenheim, 25, 151 



INDEX, 44-3 



Herbolzheini, 5S 


Wnnninffpn •> 1 
XXUXlIlllJs^vrli, O £ 1 


Hcl *Xt;i UUdlll, til 


Horcbeim 218 


TTprOTitf chpror 1 ^Sft 
XJLcI e^OLtoUd ±00 


Hornberg, 98, 276 




Hoab, 89 


Herren^viese 8S 


Hugelhsim, 52 


Herrnalb 95 


Huissen 434 


Hersel 378 


Hundsruck Mountains, 296 


XXCl JVilt-llil, l>tl 


TTnno-pn 939 


TTp««^lh^r>li GO 


H" n n i w crp n i\.7 

XX lHJllli^CIl, *-±4 


AXtJ'LIt. IJiil «HJtll, OUt) 


Huy, 20 




TTn v7pnT"kQ ^Vi Ol 


XXllJJCi l&dUj o# 


Jchenbeim, 61 


Hi.ypn 913 


Trlar IQfJ 

Xlldl , XtJU 


TTi mmpl troi cf All 

AAJlllllltli^Clfil, 


Igel, 292 


TTirit^ tf\ r Pi-"a \7o11oi*c 1 
lliilli IU Ald.VclIclSj 1 


111 thp f?*S 

±11, lllC, %J*J 


XXII LcllJxISj 


Tllincrpn 97 


TTi wpn q Oil 


Tlmssfrprlf Of\C\ 
XlLUMUclll, aAj\} 


XllllVUi, 'lUO 


Tncrplhpim T^nrf 188 


Hoba 89 


Ingelheimer Aue, 145, 179 


Hochbla.uen, 3lount<iiii of ? 51 


X1111LU, ouu 


XXUCllUUig, 04 


T«PK»s»r»Vi flip lift 


xxu^iiuurl, ZO 


Tatpin zlft 


HochliGirn 175 


Itter, 411 


TTnrhrpiT7 QQ'l 


Tar"<Yh<;Viprcr 91 3 


XXUdlSl, ZO^ 1 # tl 


T;poprtlial 190 


HcGclclingen 5 57 


if UilallJlloUd lYLUUillalll v/1, lo-r 


TTnflipim Ofift 
xxuiiir,liii, ZUlf 


Kahlstarlf 191 


Hofweyer, 61 


KaiscrslR.ut6rii 125 


Hohp 931 


tn T inrl^tnhl I9J1 


rf oVi p n (rp rr\l rl «pr»lr fift 

XXvJllClli^Cl UlUot-CJVj UU 


1 XJaLlLlCL/, X>&l 


Ho] ipn r*Vi cpnhpim 1 -IS 
xxuiicuctaCIlscllJlt-liIJ 3 ItO 


TCai^prsfiihl °A 

XVCllSCl ollllll, uo 


XX U 11 C llo It, 111 j >&rr/ 




Hoheiitwiel 36 


Kaiscrworth 425 


Hohe Wurzel, Height of, 250 


Kaltcnherberg, 27, 49 


Holland, Money of, 10 


Kalvel, Alountain of, 84 


Ho.lpnfpls Ca^rlp nf 9-17 


Kaltcnboriis BrunichGn, 230 


Hollenthal 56 


Kalt-T^no-pre 9QT 


iXUlillaivcll, £ ±U 


XvdIIl]J, ilZ 


Holzapfel,237 


Kande], 99 


Homberg, 426, 428 


Kapellen, 217 


Homburg, 24 


Kappel under Windeck, 89 


Homburg vor der Hebe, 174, 


Karlbach, 121 


231, 263 


Karlshalle, Salt Works of, 192 


Horinct', 323 


Karlshof, 158 



444 



I K D E X « 



Karlstadt, 121 
Kasbach, the, 324 
Kassel, Fort of, 138 

■ Sandbank, 408 

Kastelberg, Mount, 63 
Kattenalp, Mountain, 247 
Kattenes, 275 

Kattenelburg, Castle of, 247 

Katz, Castle of, 210 

Katzenellbogen, 239 

Kauzenberg, the, 194, 197 

Kedrich, Mountain of, 200 

Kehl, 27, 61, 64 

Kempten, 189 

Kenzingen, 27, 58 

Kern, 276 

Kesselheina, 297 

Kester, 212 

Kiderich, 250 

Kidrich, 182 

Kinz, the, 269 

Kinzig, the, 62 

Kinzigthal, Valley of, 63, 97 

Kippenheim, 60 

Kirchdorf, 99 

Kircheim Bolanden, 128 

sur Eck, 121 

Kirnberg, Castle of, 58 
Kisslau, 105 

Klarenthals, Convent of, 256 
Klause, 183 
Klengen, 99 
Klingel, Chapel of, 85 
KIopp, 187 
Kloppenheim, 266 
Klotten, 277 
Klottenburg, 277 
Kniebis, Mount, 94, 95 
Knielingen, 106 
Knittlingen, 27 
Kochem, 277 
Kaendringen, 57 
Kommern, 346 
Kbnigstein, 174, 263 



Konigstuhl, Mountain of, 124, 14? 

the, 215 

Konigswart, 91 
Konigswinter, 331 
Krach, 283 
Krafft, 26 

Kreuzberg, Mountain of, 340 
Kreuzborner Ley, 314 
Kreuznach, 193 

to Alzey, 128 

Krippe, 216 

Kronberg Yor der Hohe, 261 
Krone nb erg, 24, 173 
Krotzingen, 27, 51 
Kruckenfels, 79 
Knife, the, 412 
Kuhkopf, 229 
Kuilenburg, 436 
Kuno-Engers, 299 
Kyll, the, 287 

Laach, Abbey of, 309, 316, 317 

, Lake of, 309, 316 

Ladenburg, 149 
Lahn, the, 217, 234, 241 
Lahneck, Castle of, 217 
Lahnstein, 216 
Lahr, 60 
Landau, 25, 114 

to Neustadt, 115 

Landchen, 294 
Landfuhrberg, 282 
Landelin, St. Bath of,- 59 
Landsberg, Hill of, 152 

Mountain of, 196 

Landskron, 46, 322 
Landstuhl, 126 
Landswald, Forest of, 179 
Laugel, 409 
Langelonsheim, 192 
Langen, 159, 379 
Langenau, 237 
Langenbrand, 87 
Langenbruck, 105 
Langendenzlingen, 56 



IN DEX. 



445 



: Langensclnvalbach, 244 
| Langerwehr, 350 

Langwertheraue, 183 
I Laubach, the, 230, 287 
j Laubenheim, 136, 192 
; Lauernburg, Castle of, 237 
i Laufen, 37 

Laufenburg, 39 
j Lautenbach, 151 
: Lanterburg, 26 
| Lautrec, 127 

Leek, the, 436 
; Lederbach, 306 
! Leimen, 46 
I Lennep, 423 

Leubsdorf, 321, 323 

Leutersdorf, 3C6, 310 

Leutershausen, 148 
| Ley, 274 
; Leyden, 22 

Leye, the, 434 

Lich, Abbey of, 23S 

Lichtenau, 70 
I Lichtenthal, Abbey of, 79 

Lich te neck, 57 

Liebanech, 214 

Liebenstein, Castle of, 212 
, Liege, 20 

j to Cologne, 21 

| Liel, 49 

Lille, 23 

Limath, the, 38 

Limburg, Abbey of, 118 

, on the Lahn, 23, 24, 241 

Linange, 122 

Valley of, 122 

Linkelbach, 235 

Linkenheim, 106 

Linz, 23, 323 

Linzenhausen, 323, 324 * 

Lippe, the, 431 

Lobith, 434 

Lof, or Loew, 275 

Lohnen, 430 



Longwich, 287 
Lorch, 183, 200 
Lorchhausen, 201 
Loretto, Hill of, 55 
Lorrach, 48 

Lorsbach, Valley of, 173, 259 
Lorsch, Village of, 152 

, Abbey of, 134, 152 

Louisberg, Mountain of, 355, 364 

Louvain, 20, 21 

Lowenberg, Mountain of, 331 

Ludwigsburg, 28 

Ludwigshohe, 135 

Luginsland, 51 

Liilsdorf, 378 

Lun, the, 408 

Lurleyberg, 208, 211 

Luzerath, 273 

Lyser, 285 

Maestricht, 21 

Magdalenemvorth, 217 

Mahlberg, 60 

Mahlek, 57 

Malchen, the, 265 

Mallendar, 297 

Mailer, 297 

Malterdingen, 57 

Mamolshain, 261 

Mannheim, 25, 110 

to Carlsruhe, 26 

to Heidelberg, 26 

to Mayence, 129 

to Spire, 113 

to Strasburg, 26 

Marbach, 99 

Marceau, Fort, 228 

Marckolsheim, 26 

Maria Stein, Abbey of, 46 

Mariazell, 98 

Marie aux- Martyrs, Abbey of, 
293 

Marienbamn, 432 
Marienburg, Convent of, 215 
Marienburg, 279 



INDEX. 



446 

Marienthal, 124 
Marienroth, Convent of, 275 
Markusburg, 215 
Marteau, Foundry of, 374 
Marterberg, 223 
Marterburg, Convent of, 21 
Martinsberg, 197, 208 
Martin, St., Abbey of, 292 
Martinshof, Farm of, 283 
Matthew, St., Convent of, 292 
Matzenburg, 122 
Maulbeerau, Island of, 134 
Maus, 211 

Mause Thurm, or Hats' Tower, 
198 

Maxdorf, 130 

Maximin, St. Abbey of, 292 
Mayence, 23, 24, 137 

to Bingen, 177 

to Frankfort, 25 

to Heidelberg, 2-5 

to Strasburg, 25 

Mechernich, 345 
Meffartshaus, 274 
Mehlern, 333 
Meissenheirn, 127 

to Kreuznach, 128 

Melibocus, 154 
Mercury, Mount, 82 
Merkenich, 408 
Merl, 280 
Meurs, 428 
Mease, the, 20 
Mickeln, 411 
Mietersheim, 60 
Mingolsheim, 105 
Minnheim, 2S6 
Mittelheim, 183 
Mittelsachsenheim, 148 
Mittelspay, 214 
Moergen, St., 98 
Mombach, 180 
Mondorf, 377 
Money, 8 



Monhehn, 410 
Montrepos, Castle o:, 305 
Mont Royal, 282 
Mont St. Jean, 56 
Monzingen, 197 
Mordkarnmer, 124 
Mortier, Fort, 53 
Mosbach, 179 
Moscbel, 196 

Moselle, the, 218, 227, 273 
Moselweiss, 230 
Mouse Tower, 187, 198 
Muckel, 411 
Mud en, 276 
Muhlbach, the, 285 
Muhlen, or Muhlheirn, 285 
Muhlentbal, Valley of, 148 
Muhlheim, 27, 285, 407 
Muhlhofen, 298 
Muhlrecherberg, 2S2 
Mullheim, 51 
Mummelsee, Lake, 88 

, Lake, 93 

Mimchrofh, 282 
Mundenheim, 113 
Munster, 192 

, Salt Works of, 196 

Mayfeld, 276 

Munsterpuinpe, 352 
Murgthal, or Valley of the M 
85 

Musbach, 117 
Muttersheim, 61 
Nachtig, 283 
Nadbach, the, 275 
Nah, the, 195 

, Valley of the, 192 

Naraedy, 310 
Namur, 20 
Nassau, 24, 235 

. , Castle of, 236 

Nasfatten, 24 
Nauheim, 268 
Naumbnrg, 268 



INDEX. 



447 



Neander Grotto, 424 
Neresberg, or Nerosberg, 256 
Netherlands, Money of, 11 
Nette, the, 306 

Nettenhammer, Iron-foundry of, 
306 

Neu Breisach, 26, 53 
Neuburg, Convent of, 147 
Neu Eberstein, 86 
Neuenburg, 51 
Neuendorf, 230, 296 
Nenenheim, 147 
Neuenhus, or Neuhaus, 182 
Neumagen, 286 
Neusatz, Valley of, 89 
Neuss, 412 
Neustadt, 25, 27, 115 

to Durkheim, 117 

Neuweiher, 81 
Neuwied, 300 
Neuworth, 297 
Niedeggen, 348 
Niederberg, 213 
Niederbreisig, 321 
Nieder Burg, 188 
Niederfell, 275 
Niederhammerstein, 314 
Niederheimbach, 200, 202 
Niederingelheim, 23, 178 
Niederkassel, 378 
Niederlahnstein, 217 
Niedermennig, 318 
Niederramstadt, 158 
Niederschopfheim, 61 
Niederselters, 242 
Niederspay, 214 

Niederstromberg, Mountain of, 
331 

Nieder Walluf, 181 
Niederwald, 186 
Niedervvessling, 378 
Nieder worth, 296 
Niederznnrlorf, 379 
Kiel, 408 



Nierstein, 25, 136 
Nimeguen, 22, 23, 436 
Nippes, 315 
Nollingen, 201 
Nonnensee, 88 
Nonnenstromberg, 331 
Nonnenwerder, Island of, 328 
Norsingen, 54 

Northgottes, Convent of, 200 
Ober Breisig, 322 
Obere Burg, 188 
Oberfell, 275 
Oberhammerstein, 314 
Oberkassel, 333 
Oberlahnstein, 216 
Oberliemen, 275 
Oberramsiadt, 158 
Oberrard, 172 
Ober Schafhausen, 53 
Oberselters, 244 
Oberspyk, 434 
Oberstein, 128, 196 
Oberwesel, 206, 207 
Oberwessling, 378 
Oberwinningen, 274 
Oberwinter, 327 
Oberworth, 217 
Oberzroth, 87 
Oberzundorf, 379 
Odenfels, Castle of, 324 
Oehlbach, the, 73 
Oelberg, 331 
Oestrich, 183 
Oetlikon, 48 
Offenbach, 172 
Offenburg, 27, 62 
Oggersheim, 25, 129 
Ohm, the, 232 
Okkenfels, 324 
Oldbruck, Castle of, 322 
Oppenan, 95 
Oppenheim, 25, 135 
Oranienstein, 241 
Ordenbach, 410 



448 INDEX. 



Ordenbach, the, 410 


Prussia, Money of, 11 


Orsoy, 428 


Pyrmont, Castle of, 276 


Ortenberg, 63 


Qnettich, the, 80 


Os, the, 73 


Rade vorm Wald, 423 


Oss, 84 


Rafts, Description of, 310 


Ossenberg, 430 


Rahl, Mountain of, 192 


Ostend to Antwerp, 22 


Ramsel, 206 


■ to Brussels, 19 


Rasgat, 426 


to Rotterdam, 22 


Rastadt, or Rastatt, 27, 71 


Osterspay, 214 


to Bale, 27 


Otterberg, 126 


to Mannheim, 101 


Ottilienberg, Mountain, 56 


Rauenthal, 182, 250 


Palseich, 237 


Raumiinzach, the, 90 


Passports, 14 


Rebenhag, 51 


Pempelfort, 419 


Rees, 434 


Petersaue, Island of, 145, 179 


Reichartshausen, 183 


Petersberg, 211, 219,228 


Rekhenbach, 92, 153 


, (Seven Mountains) 330 


Reichenstein, 199 


Peterskopf, 121 


Reiffenberg, 265 


Peterspay, 214 


Reil, 280 


Petersthal, 95 


Reinach, 46 


Pfaffendorf, 218 


Remagen, 23, 324 


Pfaffenmiitze, 377 


Remscheid, 422 


Pfaffroth, Farm of, 332 


Renchen, 64 


Pfalrain, 232 


Retters, Convent of, 250 


Pfalz, on the Rhine, 204 


Reuss, The, 38 


Pfalzel, or Pfalz, 287 


Rheid, 378 


Pfalzsprung, 193 


Rheinau, Town of, 38 


Pfeddersheim, 128 


Rheinaue, 183 


Jrnmigheini, 134 


Rheinbach, 345 


Pfingstbach, the, 320 


Rheinberg, 206, 429 


Pfingstweicle, 235 


Rheinbreitbach, 327 


Pfriru, the, 134 


Rheindiebach, 202 


Philipsburg, 214 


Rheindurkheim, 134 


Philippsthal, Castle of, 226 


Rheineck, Castle of, 315, 319, 320 


Piesport, 286 


Rheinfeld, 410 


Platte, 257 


Rheinfelden, 40 


Platthals, 410 


Rheinfels, 210 


Plettersdorf, 333 


Kneingau, the, 177, loi 


r OICD , Zl 6 


Rheingrafenstein, the, 195 


Poll, 379 


Rheinhausen, 107 


Pomniern, 277 


Rheinheim, 426 


Poppelsdorf, 340 


Rheinkassel, 40S 


Posting, Price of, 14, 15, 16, 17 


Rheinschanze, 113 



IN DEX. 



449 



Rheinstein, 199 
Rheinzabern, 26 
Rhenen, 435 
Rhense, 215 

Rhine, Breadth of the, 32 

Crooked, 436 

■ Depth of the, 33 

Distances of Places on 

the, 29 

Lower, 70 

Middle, 70 

Navigation of the, 34 

Source of the, 35 

Upper, 70 

Valley of the, 177 

Rhorn, 276 
Riechen, 47 

Riegelsburg, Castle of, 287 

Riesensaule, Giant's Column, 153 

Riesenstein, 147 

Ringmauer, 119 

Ringsheira, 58 

Riol, 287 

Rippoltsau, 96 

Risbach, 283 

Rittersruhe, 182 

Rochusberg, Mountain, 187, 192 
Rochenhausen, 268 
Rodelheim, 173 
Rodenkirchen, 379 
Rodenstein, 150 
Roderberg, Mountain of, 172 

, Volcano of, 333 

Roders, Farm of, 360 
Roel, the, 411 
Roer, the, 349, 377 
Roggendorf, 345 
Rohrathsberg, 94 
Rohrbach, 106 
Roisdorf, 341 

Rolandseck, Castle of, 328 
Rolandswerder, Island of, 328 
Rollbach, the, 410 
Romerkanal, 346 



Romersdorf, Abbey of, 301, 305 

. , Village of, 333 

Ronnesdorf, 329 
Ronsdorf, 422 
Ropekammerchen, 330 * 
Rosenthal, Convent of, 277 
Rosenwald, 133 
Rossel, 187 

Rossert, Mountain of, 259 
Roteln, 48 
Roth, 92 
Rottchen, 341 
Rotterdam, 22 

to Amsterdam, 22 

Mayence, 23 

Nimeguen, 22 

Rudelsheim, 135 
Riidesheim, 187 
Ruhr, the, 426 
Ruhrort, 426 

Rummelstein, Rock of, 206 
Ruppertsberg, Mountain of, 187, 
198 

Ruthard Castle, 63 
Riiwer, 292 

Saale, or Salza, the, 105 

Saalburg, 174, 264 

Saar, the, 188 

Sachsenhausen, 159 

Saftig, 229 

Salzig, 212 

St. Blaise, Abbey, 39 

St. Chrischonal, 47 

St. George, 54, 56, 98 

St. Goar, 23, 208 

St. Goarshausen, 209, 210 

St. Louis, 26, 53 

St. Martin, 292 

St. Mary at Sand, 58 

St. Omer, 20 

St. Peter, Abbey of, 98 

St. Salvator, 355 

St. Veit, 49 

Sandaue, 183 

2 it 



450 



INDEX. 



Santen, or Xante n, 431 


Schwarzenberg, Hamlet of, 91 5 


Sarec, 201 


, Castle of, 


57 f 


Saraisheim, 192 


Schwarzwald, 72 




Sarnstall, 115 


Schwarzenbruch, Convent of, 35< ; 


Sasbach, 64 


Schwarzrheindorf, 376 




Sassenburg, Castle of, 148 


Schweiberdingen, 27 




Sauerburg, Castle of, 206 


Schwelni, 422 




Sauerland, 426 


Schweppenburg, Castle of, 


316 


Sauerthal, Valley of, 201 


Schweppenhausen, 197 




Sausenburg, 49 


Schwetzingen, 26, 109 


f 


Sayn, Castle of, 29S 


Sebastian-Engeis, 297 


r 


Schaf hausen, 27, 28, 35 


Season for visiting the Rhine, 1 1 


Scbarfenstein, 182 


Seckenheim, 146 




Schauenburg, Castle of, 148 


Seckiugen, 39 




Schaumburg, Castle of, 238 


Seerelden, 52 




Scheuern, 236, 327 


Seelbach, 60 




Schierstein, 180 


Selach, 79 




Schiltach, 96 


Selters, 24, 242 




Schlampelweg, 158 


Selz, the, 183 




Schllengen, 49 


Servitenkloster, 340 




Schlangenbad, 21, 248 


Seven Mountains, the, 329, 


332 


Scblossberg, near Fribtirg, 55 


Sieg, the, 376 




, Mountain, 285 


Siegburg, Abbey of, 333 




Schneckenschanze, 434, 435 


-, Town or", 376 




Schcenberg, 54 


Singen, 27 


-J 


Schonberg, 153 


Singh ofen, 24 




, Castle of, 153, 207 


Sinsheim, 80 


fl 


Schonbornsiust, 229 


Sinzheim, 28, 84 




Schoenewald, 98 


Siuzig, 322 




Schbngrunden, 92 


Soden, 24, 260 




Schonmunzach, the, 91 


Sohlingen, 422 




Schoutter, Valley of the, 60 


Sonneck, Castle of, 200 




Schreck, 106 


Sonnenberg, Castle of, 180, 


256 


Schriesheim, 148 


Spa, 21, 371 




Schlatter, the, 61 


Spanwordt, Island of, 134 




Schuttern, 61 


Spellen, 430 




Schwabens, 38 


Speyerbach, the, 107 




Schwalbach, 24, 244 


Spire, or Speyer, 26, 107 




, Castle of, 247 


to Germersheim, 113 




Schwalheim, 24, 207 


, the river, 107 




Schwarzach, 71 


Sponheim, Convent of, 197 


•2S7 


, the, 38 


Sprenglingen, 194 


i 


Schwa rzenberg, Glasshouse of, 


Stabloo, 374 




90 


Stahlbuhl, 105 





INDEX. 



451 



| Stahleck, Castle of, 203 
Stalberg, Castle of, 204 
I Stammheim, or Stammel, 408 
I Stap, 429 

; Starisberg, Mountain of, 432 
| Starkenburg, 152 

• , on the Moselle, 280 

| Staufen, 52 

: Staufenberg, 64, 82 

I Stauffen Mountains, 259 

| Steam Boats, 3, 4, 5 

I Steeg, 204 

I Stein, Castle of, 236 

• , Rock, 40 

1 Steinach, the, 38 
. Steinhach, 89 

Stephansberg, Mount, 280 
| Sternfels, Castle of, 212 

Stollberg, 350 

Stollhofen, 27, 71, 89 

Stolzenfels, 217 

Stoperwald, Forest of, 275 
| Stoschen, 323 

Strahlenberg, 183 

■ , Castle of, 148 

Strasburg, 25, 26, 27, 65 

to Bale, 26 

Stromberg, Town of, 197 

, Valley of, 197 

, Mountain of, 330 

Strunderbach, the, 407 

Sturzelburg, 411 

Stuttgart, 27, 28 

to Constance, 28 

— Schafhausen, 28 

Stygen, 35 

Sulz, 25 

Sulzbach, 151, 260 
Siirth, 379 
Tanneberg, 155 
Tannenfels, 123 
I Taunus, Mountains of, 172, 231, 
259 



Tausenau, 235 
Teufelhaus, 306 
Teufelskanzel, 85 
Theodorshalle, Salt Works of, 
192 

Thomas, Convent of St. 306, 308 
Thur, the, 38 

Thurmberg, Castle of, 211 
Todtnau, 99 

Tonusstein, Spring of, 309 

■ , Convent of, 319 

Tonnerre, Mont, 123, 269 
Tournay, 20 
Traben, 282 

Trabenberg, Mountain of, 282 
Transdorf, 342 
Trarbach, 280 
Travellers, Hints to, 1 
Travelling, Mode and Expense 

of, 14 
Trechtlinghausen, 200 
Treis, 277 
Treves, 24, 288 
Trifels, Castle of, 115 
Trittenheim, 287 
Trompeterberg Mountain, 257 
Tron, 286 
Trone, the, 286 
Tryberg, 97, 98 
Tullingen, 48 
Turant, 275 
Udorf, 378 
Uerdingen, 425 
Ufingen, 99 

Umweg, Coal Mines of, 89 
Unadingen, 27 
Undiz, 59 
Ungstein, 121 
Unkel, 325 

Unkelstein, the Great, 326 

, the Little, 326 

Unterberg, 282 
Unterbeuern, 79 



452 



INDEX. 



Unterspyk, 434 
Unterwinnigen, 274 
Urbar, 296 
Uriel* 378 
Urimtz, 297 
Ursel, 263 

Ussem, or Undesheim, 411 

Utrecht, 436 

Vallendar, 297 

Vautsberg, 199 

Veitsberg, Mountain of, 316 

Yeldenz, 285 

Verviers, 371 

Vieux Breisac, 52 

Villich, 376 

Villigen, 98 

Villstadt, 70 

Vliest, the, 436 

Vogtsberg, 199 

Vollmar, 426 

Vollraths, 184 

Volpach, 97 

Vorderburg, 18S 

Vorstenberg, Mountain of, 432 

Vyanen, 436 

Waal, the, 434 

Wachern, 283 

Wachenheim, 118 

Wageningen, 435 

Wagenstatt, 58 

Waghausel, 26, 106 

Waldchen, 132 

Waldmannsburg, 116 

Waldshut, 38 

Wallach, 430 

Wallersheim, 296 

Walluf, 181 

Walsum, 429 

Wanheim, 426 

Wanzenau, 26 

Wehlen, 283 

Wehr, the, 40 

Wehrbach, the, 350 

Weil, 48 



Weilbach, 175 
Weiler, 212 
Weingarten, 105 
Weinheim, 25, 150 
Weinsheim, 197 
Weiss, on the Rhine, 379 

— , on the Moselle, 274 

Weissenau, 136 
Weissenbach, 87 
Weisse Thnrm, 299 
Welmich, 211 
Wenkenhof, 47 
Werbach, the, 276 
Werden, 427 
Werlau, 211 
Werthausen, 426 
W T esel, 23, 430 
Wesehnitz, the, 150 
Westerhold, Island of, 314 
Westerwald, Height of, 296 
Wetter, the, 267 
Widdig, 378 
Wieblin^en, 146 
Wied, the, 305 
Wiesbaden, 24, 250, 251 
Wiesdorf, 408 
Wiesenbach, 28 
Wiesenthal, 48 
Wiesloch, 27, 105 
Wildbad, 93 
Wild Lake, the, 93 
Wildes Gefahrt, 204 
Wilhelmsbad, Bath of, 172 
William, Fort, 218, 226 
Windeck, Castle of, 89 
Windek, 150 
Winkel, 183 
Winningen, 230 
Winnweiler, 123, 125 

to Kaiserslautern, 

125 

Wintersberg, 116 
Wipper, the, 408, 420 
Wipperfurt, 423 



INDEX. 



453 



Wirten, 431 

Wisperthal, Valley of, 200 

Wissemburg, 25 

Wisterwald, Forest of, 217 

Wittlich, 279 

Woerden, 436 

Wolf, 283 
! Wolfach, Valley of, 97 
I Wolfenweiler, 54 
I Wolfgang, St., 79 
| Wolfsberg, 117 
! Wolfsbrunnen, 147 

Wolfsthal, 96 
i Wolkenburg, Mountain of, 330 

Wollmerath, 411 

Wolterdingen, 99 
| Wonnethal, Convent of, 58 
; Woringen, 409 

Worm, the, 367 

Worms, 25, 131 



Wutach, the, 38 
Wvk, 436 

Wyk-te-Dihstede, 435 
Xanten, 431 
Yberg, Mountain of, 80 
, Castle of, 90 



Yssel, the, 435 
Zahibach, 145 
Zahringen, 56 
ZeU, 277, 280 
Zeltingen, 283 

Zillesberg, Hermitage of, 277 
Zimmern, 64 
Zons, 410 
Zulpich, 348, 425 
Zum Stein, 135 
Ziindorf, 379 
Zurzach, 38 
Zwingenberg, 155 



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